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Power club 521. 2nd - 8th March 2020 (Read 5715 times)

tomtom

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Power club 521. 2nd - 8th March 2020
March 08, 2020, 06:56:07 pm
Very similar to last week:

M: Evening trip to Mad Volume. Avergage Good session - coming close to ticking board 7A :D good to catch up with SteveR and meet BigIronHorse

We: Went to Church Crag on the way back to Manchester.. Progress progress on Gullivers but its slow.

Thu: Off to Wilton3. Pissed about on the square as Starship dried - had a good hour on it - worked really hard. Managed not to get any splits but didnt really come close.

Sat: Sun: Off to Trowbarrow again..... Bah. Frustrating. Conditions were good (windy but good) but had two marginally better attempts at Pit Problem, where I caught the hold but heel came off (lots). Once I caught it sweetly and felt as if it were going to stick and it didnt. I suppose its progress... but frustrating - that squeeze and throw and push all at the same time is a really weird one for me. Had a play on Neds after I was powered out on PP


shark

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11.5-8 average 160.3 down 1.8lbs

M. Lovely day. Matlock with Nick. Perfect connies. Jackson Tor - warm up repeating stuff. Then we did the neat highball 6A. Moved onto Bank Quarry and climbed on the boulder doing the easy but classy Arête. Nick flashed the Chiseler 6A or 6B but I got stuck on it having far too many goes with not enough rest wearing out skin on the ratty crimps. Moved on to the 6C+ techy Show Pony that Mark R recommended. Nick did it and the sit but I flailed till I had no core left for the barndoor moves. Nick has a few attempts at Back Street Abortionist then we called it a day.

Eve. Assisted one armers. Density hangs. Expected to be rubbish but improved scores again.

T

W Good weather. Matlock with dogs. Unexpectedly did the stand straight off. Got stuck into Show Pony sit 7A but as my beta improved my core got weaker. It was fun working it out though. Should get it when fresh. Really off the pace with vert climbing.
Eve Assisted one armers. Fingerboard - recruitment pulls (added full crimps) followed by speed pulls for the first time

T

F Magnificent spring like day. Blue skies, sun which you could actually feel properly. Matlock with Nick. Expected to get Show Pony sit quickly but took quite a few tries to seal the deal with a sketchy ascent. In meantime Nick kept his lead doing Back Street Abortionist 7A+. I had a couple of abortive! goes then we went and top roped The Power of the Darkside. I didn’t get past the first low hard move as didn’t have ability to overcome lack of reach. Nick did it in a oner. Neither of us wanted to make it a headpoint project. Went back BSA and got set up on the guppy well on my last go but wimped out of committing to the lurch.

Eve. Assisted one armers. Ergo edge recruitment pulls then speed pulls. Ben and Bristol team up. Declined offer of being their pad bitch on Saturday

S

S Feeling wheezy and a bit poorly so sacked off going outside. PM Assisted one armers. Density hangs.

Picked a chesty cough last couple of days (but no temperature so not corona) Shoulder feeling a lot better but still niggly. Shocked how hard I’m finding vert climbing. Used to be my forte. Was disciplined with diet during week but lost ground at weekend. Fixed to climb with Nick Tuesday and Friday. May do some trad if weather good. Tommy back at weekend so if dry and I can persuade him then may be Malhaming it with him if dry the following week.
« Last Edit: March 08, 2020, 08:37:37 pm by shark »

Fiend

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Shark did you force yourself to stay on the LHS of Show Pony after getting the good holds at 2/3 height?? There's a photo on SEBC website showing someone doing that but while we were trying it (didn't happen), we both checked out the top from starting on the RHS and it looked like it would be very hard to get the good holds and contrive to force your body to stay left when all the holds lead you right...

Glad you're having fun down there. Got fat weak person beta for BSA / Dark Horse direct at the start of my latest video, if the guppy is at the top don't use that, there's a crimp ripple just as the arete "slabs off" .

Will Hunt

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Have been developing or having a cold for most of this week. It's on its way out now. Sore throat wore off over the course of today and now just got incredibly blocked sinuses.

S - family walk along Shipley Glen. Took a pad and shoes for Sprog #1 and she did some climbing. Popped my own shoes on for a new-ish looking thing that turned out to be about 5+.

S - the day before had felt like the first day of Spring. Not feeling well enough to go bouldering and suspecting it might be warm - so went out to potter up some easy trad at Brimham. Wife and kids came too so it ended up being quite a family day (sorry, Huw).
First trad route of the year: Desperation Crack. Very easy up to the top chimney (hail showers notwithstanding). Very glad of Huw's big cams at the top. Would be shit scary without. Hadn't really anticipated how hard the top offwidth would be. Often these things end up being climbed on some little face holds but this is a proper chicken-winging arm-barring thrutch. It's flared such that it's trying to spit you out all the time. Scraped up with much effort. Brilliant.
Then Huw did Picnic Variation, I did Maloja, and we finished on Frensis. Nice to do some of the easy classics that we never got round to doing before. Felt wiped out by the end from being out in cold and not feeling 100% all day.
Sprog #1 loved scampering around on the rocks. Will have to bring her back for more in the summer.

duncan

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STG: enjoy climbing (when I get the chance); try hard three times a week.
MTG: embrace sport-climbing, RP 7b+; classic sea-cliff (or similar) E5 before 7.06.2020.
LTG: Something Long, Hard and Free tbc

M - Climbing! Westway with the retired Super Alpinist, which was nice. Easy session but did a couple of steep comp. wall routes which are not my strong point. A good warm-up for some fingerboard max. hangs.
T - Shit day at work. Unsuccessfully tried to calm down with a brisk (7km) walk in the afternoon. Chest pains in the evening, clearly stress-related but a bit concerning none-the-less..
W - Knee strength (single leg squats etc.). More chest pains.
T - On strike. Chest pains returned, went to GP who sent me to A+E. Investigations all clear. Doctor, knowing where I worked, advised me to change job! Did a retest on my one-arm hang finger strength: 53kg for 5 seconds which was a slight improvement over 6 weeks ago.  Weighted pull-ups (+20kg).
F - Knee strength, 10km walk.
S - Shoulder strength, knee strength, 10km walk.
S - Re-tested double arm hang strength. 89kg for 5 seconds, a considerable (6%) increase in strength over the last 6 weeks.  Shoulder strength, knee strength, weighted pull-ups.


High type 2 allostatic load week.

Retesting fingers after 6 weeks of reasonably consistent fingerboarding. Two arm hang strength has improved markedly, single arm only slightly. Specificity innit. My two to one arm ratio is 1.67, as you’d expect of someone who has barely trained and is rather weak

Entertainingly I also plugged the numbers in to Lattice’s ‘my-fingers’ data harvesting assessment tool. I'm clearly a bit of an outlier compared to their population. 

Plan: one arm hangs paying more attention to grip type. As it’s 4 weeks to Easter and Pembroke (and 3 months to Céüse) I should probably start endurance training!

shark

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Shark did you force yourself to stay on the LHS of Show Pony after getting the good holds at 2/3 height?? There's a photo on SEBC website showing someone doing that but while we were trying it (didn't happen), we both checked out the top from starting on the RHS and it looked like it would be very hard to get the good holds and contrive to force your body to stay left when all the holds lead

It’s a shame as this detracts from what is a good problem and I made a comment that effect on the UKC logbook. When I did the stand I just finished up Red Rum as I hadn’t realised they were meant to be different finishes. When I did the sit I stayed either on the arete, or to its left at the top by going from the jug shared on both to a poor fingerlock with LH and left side of RR rail with RH and scuttle left to finish. Eliminating these would be really contrived

yetix

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M: rest
T: max hangs
W: parisella's cave, went to finish off Lou Ferinno. Worked on the end of Broken Heart first during the warm up. Before cracking on with Ferrino. A few beta tweaks and it went down relatively quickly. Pretty stoked as it's my first in the grade! Tried the sans pocket end sequence and did from 4 moves in to the end of sans one. Moved back onto Broken Heart, managed the first move and the foot moves, but moving the LH felt the living end! Think my core was probably pretty fatigued by this point!
T: rest
F: max hangs
S: Almscliffe, warmed up doing flying arete x3, then did the top of the Keel 3 times from progressively lower points. Pulled on from the bottom and did it first go from the bottom, which was pretty sick after getting a black eye on it last week ha. Went back to underhand to try the extension. Managed to get to the last move x3, but punted off each time.
S: Cratcliffe with Fiend, Spidermonkey and Josh, started on Jerry's arete, but couldn't get the body positions right. Moved onto Dry wit and just couldn't stand up to take the good hold on the crux. Eventually moved onto T Crack, took a while to get the moves dialed and then ended up punting off right at the end twice. Went and did Brain Dead just before sunset, soft but class.
Feeling battered from a heavy week, gonna need a few days to regrow some skin after a few splits today! Good job the weather next week looks tragic I suppose.

Coops_13

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Yetix, you are on fire. Good effort!

T: DBC. 11 boulders up to E+, 6 M-, 6 M, 1 M+! BM1k edges, BW *1, +10lb *4. 8 pull-ups *5. 18 press-ups on medicine ball. Shoulder symmetry bands, wirst curls, 10lb. Bicep curls. Front lever pulls

T: Morrison Black Hole. First time back here since injury, eliminate cave with boulders V5 - V12. Great fun. Warmed up and got stuck in on Air Jordan V5. Pleased to get it fairly quickly. Re-learned the beta for the classic sandbag V5, Helicopter and got close to repeating. Wrist sore so called it


S: 6.3 mile hike, 1050ft ascent up Evergreen Mountain (8,500ft) while the pup was getting spayed. Undid any good work with a wedding caterer tasting straight after…

S: Three Sisters Park. Back to Evergreen for some Granite bouldering. Very warm in the sun but keen to explore as first time here. Had a good day in all with two V4 flashes and two sends of classic V5s, Rescue and Skipper (see video below). Finished the day attempting a hard grit-esque V5 called They All Fall Down. Will have to come back for that one - skin ruined


Psyched to be getting out again, so many crags to choose from. Feel like a kid in a sweet shop...
« Last Edit: March 08, 2020, 11:30:59 pm by Coops_13 »

andy popp

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Look after yourself Duncan.

gollum

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 M- F - Snowboarding in the Zillertal.  Days at Mayrhofen, Zell am Ziller and Kaltenbach. Lots of powder and off piste, getting lots of stuff done. Mostly good days with good snow and good light, but a few days which are less good.
Finally rode the gully directly under the 150 Tux lift directly which has been on the tick list a fair few years. Conditions were good and it was well worth the wait.

S - Travel home

S- Weather looks grim so head to Pudsey to have a go at the newish purples. Some success, some failures but plenty done with plenty left to do.

Great week with great friends.

JohnM

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Weight: not sure, probably around 10st6lb

Indoor route training goal before Istria in mid-April:

7c+
7c+ 8a
7c+ 8a 8a+


M: Rest

T: Nothing. Travelling to London and then Brum.

W: Work meetings all day in Brum with lots of eating and then drinking in the evening.

T: AM: Half marathon at sub 3 hour marathon pace. 19.68km in 1:29 so a bit under in the end. Immediate leg pain afterwards after running hard on concrete. PM: BoulderUK. Great volume session. Warm-up and then 3 x v7s with one flash and then every problem v5/6 in the Hidden Valley bar 2-3 v6s.

F: A lot of muscle soreness in the legs but amazing weather so I decided to do the Yorkshire 3 peaks. I felt pretty good and fast over the first 15km but then got slowly ground down and moved pretty slowly over the second half. 40km + 1500m ascent.

S: Nada

S: 0430 start to travel back to Innsbruck and then bouldering and routes at KI in the afternoon. Not a bad session but I was tired and grumpy and had very sore/crap skin from over using that alcohol gel while traveling to try and avert Coronavirus! Managed a stubborn v7 I couldn't do last time + some other boulders v4-6. Tried hard at routes but failed on everything. High point on an 8a, linked most of a 7c+ (should go next time) and then fell off the top of a 7b pumped/powered out.

A decent week, although it involved more food and booze than actually training. It was useful work-wise anyway. I felt really good at BoulderUK, especially my fingers. It seems the weighted hangs and one arm assisted hangs are paying off despite one of the Austrian coaches telling me that static hangs are not that relevant to climbing and that you never see Jakob doing them (which is true, I have never seen any of the WC wads from any country finger boarding there  :-\). I rarely do that many v7s at BUK and don't flash them so maybe the latest set is a bit soft but it still felt good to do a load of volume. My legs are going through a rough patch from the running with various aches and pains but it seems the race I was aiming to peak for in Italy on the 4th April is unlikely to happen anyway. Our accommodation and the start are in Lombardi, so based on the current lock down we wouldn't be able to get to our accommodation on the 3rd and it is unlikely they are going to permit 100s of runners from all the regions to come together in one spot. The aid stations would be Covid-19 buffets!

tomtom

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Mega week Yetix! (Apart from climbing with Fiend obvs 😃).

Coops - looks great!

Duncan - sounds grim at work man. Read that Nat geoscience article about academic work life balance? I quite regularly consider sacking it off.

spidermonkey09

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Those videos are great Coops. Your spotters are so encouraging. Compare and contrast with Plantation on Saturday with someone on the top jugs of NTBTA: "you wouldn't want to fall off now mate..."

M - in the office, broken after the Lakes. Remembered how shit it was, working from home is the way.

T - max hangs. Good session with 7.5kg assist, will try and drop the weight down a bit next time.

W - Wall. Felt fucked most of the time but had a second wind once I got on the board. Much more consistent on the hard move of the 7A+ but still couldn't link it.

T - tired, but needed to do something after a long day so screwed new micros to the fingerboard mount and did a session on them. Bodyweight hangs on the 10mm felt easy and the 8mm were still ok, but its quite easy to cheat by dragging them very passively. Is that kosher or to I need to step up; half crimping them must be nails.

F - rest.

S - Plantation. Intention was to have a session on Brad Pit but ended up doing quite a lot. Ticked Silk (crap), Satin, Pressure Drop (brilliant), Glass Hour and Honorary Caley. Really enjoyed HC especially. Had half an hour on Brad Pit and started to work out the body positions but its a definite step up from other problems I have tried. Keen to keep trying it as its such a classic.

S - Cratcliffe/ Robin Hoods. Met yetix and an "off-duty" Fiend there. Started over at Jerry's Arete and surprisingly got up this as soon as I sorted the start out. Really good problem. Moved round to Dry Wit and fluked it pulling really hard on a pebble with my thumb. Very frustrating top move but great movement. Tried Grizzly Arete while the pads were in position and did it once my left foot hit the blind edge after some direction from spotters. This is about 7A+ still i think but I couldn't compare properly as didn't do before the block came off. Ended up having a few goes on Jerry's Traverse which felt nails and much harder than T Crack, surely 7B+. The feet are dire. Finished off doing Brain Dead down in the woods which was fine once we established that it started off the block. Worth seeking out.

Good mileage week even if nothing super hard ticked. Pleased with the return of eight 7's over two days. Skin predictably knackered so might need a rest day or several this week.


nai

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2020 Lime, Grit and AN Other Font 7Cs.


M Kyloe-in. Warm up then straight on Hitch Hikers but was struggling to keep my feet on, right reluctant to stick to anything and if it did I couldn't do much but wave my LF at the hold out left, whole thing felt savage. Decided to get properly recruited on something else and come back to it.
I quite fancied repeating Jocks n Geordies, I first (and last) did it in 1997, pre pads, clearly remember skipping the satisfaction of completing the problem and the going straight to panic and wondering how I was going to get down.  Unable to implement the local "how man, yous just travus the break and come doon the crack" advice, I ended up dropping off from what felt miles and miles up.
Reasoned I might as well do it from a sit this time so set about working that out and was soon trying to link it. Wasted energy forgetting the sequence at the sit-stand transition but eventually made it to the last move where I wasted so much time getting my RF high enough that my right arm wilted.  Gave it a couple more attempts but had to admit I was spent.

Headed to Back Bowden to try Four Mats RH but didn't make much of an impression. Might suggest this is morpho, if you can reach the better crimp off the obvious foot you're in, if not it feels hard. Or maybe I was just tired.

T - Bowden. Made good progress on Sprung, had one move left to work out but one of the crimps was eating my Right Index so had to walk away
Moved to Temptation Direct, sun was out so lots of rest between attempts waiting for cloud cover.
Returned to the Cave and fed Sprung a bit more skin before deciding to come back on Friday. Did Cave RH which is a belter.

w rest

Th - Kyloe - managed JaGSS first attempt of the day, scary dropping off from the break even with a pad.
Did far better on HHGTTG, worked all moves but came up short linking it.
Gorgeous still day alone in the wood, absolute silence only punctuated by bird song.

F - Back to Kyloe unfortunately. Couldn't make my foot sequence form Thursday work the same on HH but the simpler method I'd been trying, but didn't work on Monday, worked just fine. Completed it soon after sussing that.
Contemplated heading to Bowden but skin was quite sore by now so didn't think Sprung was on. Tried The Yorkshireman and Queens Ear, almost got the latter but fingers suddenly gave up.
Absolutely toasted, felt like a long drive home

SS rest

A slightly dissappointing week, acheived the main aim but didn't climb as many problems or visit as many places as hoped.  Still it was dry all week and I climbed as much as I was physically able so musn't grumble.

SA Chris

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M - run while son at athletics. Hill reps til dark, then easy jog.
T - lunchtime weight session, first in ages.
W - treadmill lunch, tempo session, brutal. Evening bouldering session. Climbed pretty well, but longer than usual session and ended up taking off too much skin.
T - not much
F - Last of the Winter Proms series 3 km run - 11:37 PB on the day, and second MSV for the series. Last of winter bouldering series too, finished 2nd Vet, and second for the series. Climbed pretty well, getting most things done quickly, which was fortunate due to lack of skin.
S - long training run. 40km mostly on trails. Started well enough, but weather got worse, and last section was in heavy rain and full headwind. Fucking grim.
S - not much, play in the park with kids!

tomtom

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Sounds like a great week Nai!

HarryBD

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Decent week and feels like spring is here with some daylight after finishing work. Really noticing the difference this makes to my mood!

T - Heptonstall on TR ran laps on Bulls Crack, did some light fingerboarding after
Th - Shipley Glen. Warmed up on Smear which is a really nice line if a bit short, underated IMO. Then to Phil's Wall, first look at it. Quite thin balancy climbing, got to the final move involving a high RF rockover a few times then had a nasty fall on the edge of a pad and hurt my ankle.
S - Ankle felt ok except for walking downhill so went to Baildon Bank to learn how to short fix which might be a useful skill depending on what I get up to this summer. Bumped into a pair on Scar and they asked if I wanted to take their gear out on second. Watched one of them lead it and thought it looked alright so had a go on lead. Climbed the crack without much trouble then got pumped and used the wrong holds on the top wall and fell. Got up fine after a short rest. Happy to have had a go at my first extreme lead and will be back to get it clean. Went over and did agnostic's arete and conch as rope solos and figured that out a bit. Neither route deserves 2 stars - much more memorable HS routes in Yorkshire.

Nibile

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Power Club

Mon - BM pockets, 10" x10 quite strong despite lots of time without doing this session. Push ups, pull ups in between hangs. Two finishers.
Tue - rest.
Wed - fingers, back3 + regular hang on 9mm edge x9. Bar work in between. Weights, clean and press finisher, TB DL finisher.
Thu - pull down + pull ups, glutes, weights.
Fri - active rest, very light boxing bag.
Sat - ab wheel with pause, push ups, glutes, snatch pulls.
Sun - snatch complex 6x4, brutal. Overhead walk 4'.

SA Chris

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Bumped into a pair on Scar and they asked if I wanted to take their gear out on second. Watched one of them lead it and thought it looked alright so had a go on lead.

How does the peg look these days? I remember the top bit being a bit of a crimpy beast.

teestub

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Ended up having a few goes on Jerry's Traverse which felt nails and much harder than T Crack, surely 7B+. The feet are dire.

That’s your problem right there, stop trying to use your feet  ;)

Fiend

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I did tell him to try it Off The Wagon style with footless cross-throughs....

HarryBD

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How does the peg look these days? I remember the top bit being a bit of a crimpy beast.

Looked good to me - not sure if it's been replaced as didn't notice any corrosion. Wouldn't claim to really know what to look for though apart from "shiny good rusty bad". There's a couple of bomber monos and a RH that is big if you get it in the right place but desperate if you get it too low (where you want to grab it)

Bradders

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Well done Nai, Yetix and Spidermonkey; good weeks!

M - leg day carrying three pads into Burbage South Edge. Also did some bouldering. Have climbed on the boulders but not the edge before having been rained off on one previous visit, and the landings had put me off a solo return. Decided eventually to just take lots of pads myself. Managed Celtic Cross, Little Gem, Attitude Inspector, Electrical Storm and Pigs Make Nests. Should have done the sit to the latter but dropped it after the crux twice and a blizzard then stopped play and soaked me walking out. Great afternoon regardless, beautiful scenes and conditions don't get much better; absolutely mint bar a couple of snow flurries. Highlight was seeing a big military transport plane doing low level practice weaving down the valley. Keen to get back.

T - long work day trip to London

W - lunch gym. Bit of yoga, stretching and elbow rehab inc. isometric exercises.

Evening power hour at Depot Pudsey. Handful of purples and then a few easier problems on the board.

T - Almscliff. Cold air temp but quite still on most things as a Northerly. Warmed up doing South Cave Traverse which I'd realised was a gap in my tick list. Then Exorcist. Too warm in the sun at first but warmed into it. Did the link from after the first hard move to the top easily. Half a dozen goes once I'd waited for the sun to disappear. Into the ear move 3 times. Best go got the ear, held it, adjusted, still on, about to stand up, and my foot popped off and I was down. Much swearing ensued. New high point but I really didn't want to drop it after that move!!

F - lunch gym, yoga and stretching

S - Almscliff. Out early. Felt good on the warm up. Nice conditions being windy but not too cold. Did it first go from the start. Felt steady away. It's only a shit lowball eliminate link up but the movement is brilliant and hopefully it's served its purpose as good training during all the bad weather. Great to actually get it done.

S - nice long walk around the Chevin

moose

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Warmed up doing South Cave Traverse which I'd realised was a gap in my tick list.

If you fancy some "Type 2" fun, a proper connoiseur's tick is the low eliminate version (avoids the detour to the higher break and descent back down to meet the lower feature).  I recall it being hideously thin and having to wear very small painful shoes to get a heel to stick - felt more than the grade harder it got in the guide.

Bradders

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Thanks for the recommendation. Think I've had enough of Cliff eliminates for a while now though.

Dolly

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M I don't usually approve of Italian fusion cooking but made a miso pesto which was actually very nice  -sorry Nibs
T Church but it was partially condensed and generally high humidity. Should have trained in the shed
W Went to Krydda on Abbeydale Road for brunch. OK apart from the home cured salmon which was gob smackingly good. Did some light Bulgarian bagging in the afternoon sunshine in the garden and some digging and fence post hammering with a lump hammer. Ate at Kommune in the evening. I had stuff from Mormor which was excellent. Its a great space and I'll definitely go back 
T Church again. Much better connies this time and I came agonisingly close on Gulliver's Travels again. Made a lentil chilli in the evening which my 17 year old said was the best chilli she'd ever tasted. I love that smoky chipotle flavour
F I was battered from Thursday and my skin was thin but it was such a nice day went to a boiling t shirt hot Burbage N just for fun
S Gardening with lots of digging. Lovely rocket and lemon zest risotto in the evening
S More gardening less digging. Planted out Charlotte potatoes. 

36chambers

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Thanks for the recommendation. Think I've had enough of Cliff eliminates for a while now though.

You may as well knock off Exorcist Short whilst you've got the start dialled :strongbench:

SA Chris

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T Church but it was partially condensed and generally high humidity.
T Church again.

Do you ever at any point recite the line "This is my church, this is where i come to feel / heal my pain".

spidermonkey09

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S - Almscliff. Out early. Felt good on the warm up. Nice conditions being windy but not too cold. Did it first go from the start. Felt steady away. It's only a shit lowball eliminate link up but the movement is brilliant and hopefully it's served its purpose as good training during all the bad weather. Great to actually get it done.


Haven't been keeping track; is this Exorcist Long or Exorcist into the DWR Ear Variation you've done? Either way good effort!

Nibile

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  • Part Animal Part Machine
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M I don't usually approve of Italian fusion cooking but made a miso pesto which was actually very nice  -sorry Nibs
:'(

Dolly

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T Church but it was partially condensed and generally high humidity.
T Church again.

Do you ever at any point recite the line "This is my church, this is where i come to feel / heal my pain".


No but I should have 😀

duncan

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Look after yourself Duncan.

Thanks Andy and Tom.  My head knows what to do but my heart struggles!

Bradders

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Thanks for the recommendation. Think I've had enough of Cliff eliminates for a while now though.

You may as well knock off Exorcist Short whilst you've got the start dialled :strongbench:

Ha maybe if it stays cold and wet. Be nice to visit some other crags to be honest.


S - Almscliff. Out early. Felt good on the warm up. Nice conditions being windy but not too cold. Did it first go from the start. Felt steady away. It's only a shit lowball eliminate link up but the movement is brilliant and hopefully it's served its purpose as good training during all the bad weather. Great to actually get it done.


Haven't been keeping track; is this Exorcist Long or Exorcist into the DWR Ear Variation you've done? Either way good effort!

Thanks! Ear Variation. Hard move to do after the earlier climbing, not sure how it stacks up against the other variants but probably about the same.

I made a vid so I can delete all the clips off my phone  :)


tomtom

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I miss the cliff. Not been for ages....

eastside

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Super late to the party this week as I've been busy packing for three weeks in France. Hand sanitizer check, liquid chalk check, powered air purifying respirator... Shit where did I put it?

Kind of a taper week, didn't really do any training beyond just climbing

M Sad Boulders - short session including Mothership v4, Shazam v5, tried fueled by hate but it has broken, went from soft v5 to hard v7, tried erotic terrorist v6, figured out the beta but didn't send
T nil, working nights
W nil. Drove to San Diego to see the folks
T limit boulders at Mesa Rim - flashed v 0 1 2 3 1 2 3 2 4 5, then 5 third go, tried 3xv6, flashed a 4, fell off a v2, called it a day, 34 points total
F short run/jog at the bay
S volume boulders at Mesa Rim - 55 v points including 5xv5


 

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