[emailjack]

Hey folks

Been rocking off quite a few v4s..

Tried banana fingers direct for an hour yesterday but couldn't get the knee bar in.

Any advice for other V5s to try on the Eastern grit that can help my break the barrier.

Cheers

[lagerstarfish]

This sticks in my mind.

I remember Steve McClure saying that he always found BF direct very tricky

This was probably 20 yrs ago, but still...

[andy popp]

Do you have a preferred style, strengths and weaknesses? What else have you tried at the grade?

[Fiend]

Do some reccing, find a selection that really inspire you for the line, rock, style, anticipated beauty of the movement. Try a few and see if they suit you. Maybe check here or elsewhere to see if they aren't total soft-touches or total sandbags.

[SA Chris]

This sticks in my mind.

I remember Steve McClure saying that he always found BF direct very tricky

This was probably 20 yrs ago, but still...

I think you need a long leg for the kneebar. Will reckoned about V1

[tomtom]

Do some reccing, find a selection that really inspire you for the line, rock, style, anticipated beauty of the movement. Try a few and see if they suit you. Maybe check here or elsewhere to see if they aren't total soft-touches or total sandbags.

There are two approaches. Akin in many ways to how some people ‘operate’ in a nightclub.

(A) become fixated on one problem/target and spend years trying to achieve it at the expense of all other problems.

(B) try lots of different problems until you have some success.

(C) shades of grey between the two 😃

[Fiend]

In nightclubs I am just dancing / headbanging furiously. So here's a list of a few V5s I rate in different styles:

Beauty, Stanage - slab
Mark's Roof LH, Gardoms - roof
Bin Laden's Cave, Gardoms - steep arete
Glass Slipper, Froggatt - quarried arete (gets V6 but I think V5, pulling on will show if it suits)
Breakfast, Burbage - prow
Bad Attitude, Burbage - crimpy wall
Definitive 5.12, Burbage - roof crack

Also some good highballs around like Life In A RD, Safe Bet, Acid Reign etc but might warrant a pad party that's unsuitable for social distancing.

[erm, sam]

I personally woudl say Banana Finger Direct is a super specific problem, that is also hard. Is v5 6c? In which case problems like Steep Traverse at Stange are worth a look. Much less knacky, much more workable. Er, much better.

[Duma]

There's no V5's in the Peak. Fiend has listed some decent 6C's and 6C+'s though.

[JamieG]

In nightclubs I am just dancing / headbanging furiously. So here's a list of a few V5s I rate in different styles:

Beauty, Stanage - slab
Mark's Roof LH, Gardoms - roof
Bin Laden's Cave, Gardoms - steep arete
Glass Slipper, Froggatt - quarried arete (gets V6 but I think V5, pulling on will show if it suits)
Breakfast, Burbage - prow
Bad Attitude, Burbage - crimpy wall
Definitive 5.12, Burbage - roof crack

Also some good highballs around like Life In A RD, Safe Bet, Acid Reign etc but might warrant a pad party that's unsuitable for social distancing.

Good list from fiend although I would disagree with Glass Slipper. I think it is pretty hard and I would say it is in my usual preferred style. Mark's Roof LH is a very good suggestion, since it is all reachable from the ground too, so easily workable. Used to get 7a (V6) but think most people think it is 6c+ (V5).

Another couple nice options maybe.

Satin at Stanage Plantation. Gets 7a (V6) but is probably at the lower end (if you like slabs).
Ultimate Gritstone Experience at Curbar. Gets 6c (V4) but definitely quite tough (could be 6c+ V5).

[cheque]

+1 for Mark’s Roof LH. Avoid the temptation of trying it unless it’s properly dry though.

I could never touch Banana Finger Direct.

[sdm]

Is v5 6c? In which case problems like Steep Traverse at Stange are worth a look. Much less knacky, much more workable. Er, much better.

It is. But, despite what some guides say, Steep Traverse is nowhere near 6C.

There's a reason why there is always such a huge queue of people on it looking to do their first 6C!

[spidermonkey09]

What Cheque said. MRLH is brilliant climbing.

Tried Banana Finger Direct at the weekend. Fucking nails, couldn't do it.

[Alex-the-Alex]

Ultimate Gritstone Experience at Curbar. Gets 6c (V4) but definitely quite tough (could be 6c+ V5).

+1 for Ultimate Gritstone - should be a contender in the best sit start thread too. Theres not many where the block rocks towards you as you pull on. Gives a good adreneline boost for the flash attempt.

If it counts as V5 then Brads Arete at Stanton is one of the best problems ive done anywhere.

[nai]

Some of my favourite 6C/+s*, I did them all with Billy and Jack so ok with just a couple of pads but use your judgement, etc

Bunny Wailer, Stanage
Last Light, Curbar
Acid Reign, Rivelin
Scratchy bun, Higgar
Pogles Wood, Gardoms
G- Thang sit gets you the grade but the quality is in the stand
possibly Spider Crack at Over Owler, quality is probably in the Golden Arete or sit versions but if you're not fussy...
UGE at Curbar as has been said, proper mauler if you like a scrap.

* doesn't necessarily mean they're easy so can't vouch that they're suitable for a first at the grade

But pick the right crag and you'll have several to go at. Try a few, see which ones appeal and come back to them.

[Fiend]

Fair enough about Glass Slipper, it felt a grade easier than most V6s I've done this season, and easier than some V5s (don't try Tombstone at ""V5"" unless you're a giant). But maybe I just got the knack...

Satin is a great call, deffo not V6 either. UGE adds in essential fridge-hugging to the equation.

Edit: Bunny Wailer looks ace although you might need a tarp as last time I looked it was a stream beneath.

[spidermonkey09]

Art of Japan also at Curbar. Good match up with UGE as they're not too far away from each other.

[Fiend]

Stick in Start Of The Affair too, only V4 but pretty involved! And then move on to Last Light, at last light obviously.

[emailjack]

Brilliant! Cheers all for your suggestions. Will be heading out solo (social distancing) at the weekend. Thinking curbar for a play about!

Ta ducks!

[Andy F]

Get up to Bridestones for the best V5/6c+ on grit,  Horror Arete.

[JamieG]

Agreed Horror arête is brilliant. If we’re venturing away from eastern grit, fish arête at Wimberry is also a must. But I think hard at 6c+.

[andy popp]

Agreed Horror arête is brilliant.

But your first at the grade.

[JamieG]

Agreed Horror arête is brilliant.

But your first at the grade.

Good point. Probably not a good first at the grade. Appropriately named after all. Even getting off is an experience. :-)