[Fiend]

- French competition with charmingly french commentary. jwi , I really need a literal translation of "oh la la la la la laaaaa" (it gets used a lot ). Difficulty is a bit easy especially the womens, but overall it's really good and there are some great problems especially men's and W3.

- with English commentary but the incessant drivel of the IFSC photographer makes you wish it didn't. Also some terrible filming of the crowd. BUT the quality of the problems and the overall contest is great, as good as any IFSC. As a bonus it has 4+ minutes which shows how much better this is, so many thrills and spill and knife-edge moments - watching it in the evening I had to do some calming down afterwards!!

[jwi]

- French competition with charmingly french commentary. jwi , I really need a literal translation of "oh la la la la la laaaaa" (it gets used a lot )

The commentators articulate amazingly well, I imagine auto translate works quite well.

“Oh la la” expresses an emotion. Any emotion. Literally any emotion you want to convey: sarcasm, mockery, amazement, confusion, gratitude, surprise etc, depending on tone. Pretty much like “oh wow” or “oh my god”.

[Fiend]

Aye I know that. I guess it's the number of "la"s I need an exact meaning of Or maybe the number corresponds to increasing volume in the English counterparts..m

[jwi]

oh wow/ oh wow wow wow?

should really be spelled oh là là, making it clear that là is “there”. So “oh, there there ...” if you want a literal translation?

[bigironhorse]

with English commentary but the incessant drivel of the IFSC photographer makes you wish it didn't.

Watched this a while ago, I quite enjoyed his commentary. Great comp too.

[bigironhorse]

Studiobloc masters this weekend:

[Fiend]

Cheers!

[Duma]

Studio bloc masters semis and finals are live streamed today.

[bigironhorse]

That was a pretty great comp I thought. Semis could have been a little harder perhaps but finals were pretty much just right. The setting was superb in my opinion, with a decent amount of variety. Janja on semis problem 3 was particularly impressive. The camera cut away at the crucial moment but there is footage on her instagram story. Billy Ridal's solution to semis M1 (?) also worth a look!

[Fiend]

Evening dinner watching sorted for a couple of days, cheers for the reminder

[Duma]

Thought that was a great comp, think Sergei falling up M3 was the highlight for me. Well filmed apart from the usual issues with cutting away at crucial moments - esp with things like missing janja doing W3 in the semis, which had had no ascents to that point. Setting was great for both men and women.
Janja is awesome, but I do find her dominance takes away a bit from the women's side, barring injuries the Olympic gold is hers. Hopefully someone will start to challenge her soon.

[Fiend]

Yeah it was good, despite the unpainted walls giving me the heebie jeebies - just not right. Cool set of problems that really came into their own on #2 - different methods and so many demi-cones on M's. M4 was bonkers even by the usual standards, possibly the closest comp bouldering has got to a George Smith Gogarth route!! The spikes were also giving me the heebie jeebies...

[Duma]

CWIF finals in half an hour -

NSFW  :

too tough for Megos

[Fiend]

Cheers dude, that will be a nice chill evening

[bigironhorse]

I thought the semis were great. Pretty interesting that Megos put in a surprisingly poor performances compared to what one might expect. I guess his training is geared towards being at his strongest in time for the Olympics.

The scoring tech was awesome too. Quickly updating, informative about how the climbers have done on all problems, and a live top 6. It actually made it pretty easy to keep track of what was going on - I don't know about anyone else but I normally find semis pretty confusing and I don't know who's through to the finals until the end. Hopefully the IFSC will pick up on this tech.

Finally, what do people think about knee bar pads in comps? I cant think of a coherent argument against, but something didn't feel right on m4 in the semi final. Probably just because not everyone had one.

[Fiend]

Well that was good! Some cool problems and thrills and spills. Balance slightly iffy and M4 a bit dull but more than made up for by the blocs overall and general variety. The commentators and music did a great job of keeping a good vibe despite the lack of audience - credit to all involved.