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[Peak][Burbage North][Cold Weapon] (Read 3851 times)

El Mocho

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[Peak][Burbage North][Cold Weapon]
March 04, 2020, 02:10:40 pm
Hollyash Wall.

Cold Weapon E5 6c

The big roof right of Arme Blanche, taking the hanging vertical wall/groove above the stump of the old Holly tree. This tree used to be massive 10 years ago but was chopped down at some point...

Climb the wall to the roof. Arrange small cam and wire protection (I also had a side runner in the roof of Great Crack). Span and crimp out through the roof to a better hold just below the lip, cut loose (wild) then pull round the lip and up the vague crack above to easy ground. Finishes as in this video from around the 42 sec mark (but without the 20ft of snow!)



I found it a desperate move but it feels like it is very reach/span dependant. Could feel easier than the grade, could feel harder... I'm tiny. Felt like other folk had looked at the line - there is a little slot in the roof which might have had a peg placed in the past and in which you could also place a slider (I didn't have the right size) but it felt a little hollow. You could def do without the side runner with this in, and even without it would still be safe just a clattery fall.

bigironhorse

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#1 Re: [Peak][Burbage North][Cold Weapon]
March 04, 2020, 03:02:39 pm
Nice one. Good to see new stuff getting done on such a major crag.

SA Chris

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#2 Re: [Peak][Burbage North][Cold Weapon]
March 04, 2020, 04:20:11 pm
When did the tree go?

El Mocho

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#3 Re: [Peak][Burbage North][Cold Weapon]
March 04, 2020, 05:33:40 pm
The photo in the guide (Cofe on Knights Move, as well as the topo photo) show a big (relatively) tree there, right up touching the roof. In the vid of me above you can see there is no tree visible (7 years ago) I guess it either got so big it was in the way on Great Crack or someone chopped it down to try the roof...

Johnny Brown

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#4 Re: [Peak][Burbage North][Cold Weapon]
March 04, 2020, 07:24:26 pm
Effort, looks hard.

I was up here recently and noticed the recent regrowth on the stump had been removed and dumped in the woods. Shame. There are other hollies hereabouts but this was the biggest and I'm not sure the message that climbers no longer tolerate a tree here is really where the community is at.

 

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