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training routine A3+ (Read 678 times)

felipefm

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training routine A3+
March 03, 2020, 09:04:02 am
hey! any shared experiences and tips for some basic training routine for A3+ bouldering problems? I'm fairly confident on most A3s, ok for a few A4s but still struggling basically with overhang and crimps (almost non-existent haha). I try to do train after each session, 2 to 3 weeks a week ideally. I go for 4 to 5 sets of pullups (5 reps), pushups (15) and some fingerboarding (4 fingers, 7 secs hanging, 3 secs rest, 6 sets for this one). although work and other commitments stand in the way making it difficult to analyse my progress (it's rare that I can actually follow that routine for even a month really haha), it would be interesting to know if I should stick to such training or get other tips here. I do really need to have my routine at the gym sorted out, so psychological and practical advice on that would be great!

cheers!

f.
« Last Edit: March 03, 2020, 09:19:30 am by felipefm »

bigironhorse

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#1 Re: training routine A3+
March 03, 2020, 09:12:01 am
What is an A3?

felipefm

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#2 Re: training routine A3+
March 03, 2020, 09:19:51 am
What is an A3?

aaa sorry, just edited haha A3+ bouldering problems!

SA Chris

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#3 Re: training routine A3+
March 03, 2020, 09:22:09 am
What's an A3+?

mrjonathanr

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#4 Re: training routine A3+
March 03, 2020, 09:23:20 am
I only know of V grades and Fontainebleau grades.

What is an A3+? Where have you seen this grading system?

felipefm

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#5 Re: training routine A3+
March 03, 2020, 09:56:17 am
it's V3+ I edited the post but somehow it's not going ughhh

bigironhorse

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#6 Re: training routine A3+
March 03, 2020, 10:06:48 am
Here are some good tips for the A3+'s  ;D




For the V3+'s:

I think at that level the best way to progress is just to climb lots of boulder problems in a variety of styles. If you are particularly struggling of overhangs then maybe you are lacking some upper body power and core strength, in which case doing some pull up, push ups and other conditioning exercises probably won't hurt. I don't think you need to consider fingerboarding or campussing at this stage. Also, be careful training at the end of a session when you are already fatigued, as it is easy to injure yourself. If you are struggling to fit in the regime you want to do then prioritise training your main weaknesses. But in my opinion, at this level of climbing, don't skip on climbing sessions to do other types of training as actual climbing will probably yield the greatest improvements.

All my own opinion and I am no expert on training so might be complete bollocks.

SA Chris

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#7 Re: training routine A3+
March 03, 2020, 10:29:46 am
Agree, focus on climbing on days when you are climbing. Do conditioning, core etc on days when you aren't.

How long have you been climbing? Developing crimp strength takes time, don;t overdo it trying to get stronger and injure yourself.

mrjonathanr

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#8 Re: training routine A3+
March 03, 2020, 10:32:01 am
Well I am no expert either, but Id agree with him. At V3/4 you probably have lots of strength gains to make by just going climbing on problems you find difficult. Stop before you feel really tired, continuing just means you will do less hard climbing because you will take longer to recover before your next session. So lots of shorter good sessions with good rest is best imo

You probably have lots to gain in technique too. This is trickier, but climbing with technically better climbers and doing some reading round will help. John Kettle has a book on technique drills, Dave Macleod has some interesting books, ask around.

felipefm

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#9 Re: training routine A3+
March 03, 2020, 01:11:27 pm
Here are some good tips for the A3+'s  ;D




For the V3+'s:

I think at that level the best way to progress is just to climb lots of boulder problems in a variety of styles. If you are particularly struggling of overhangs then maybe you are lacking some upper body power and core strength, in which case doing some pull up, push ups and other conditioning exercises probably won't hurt. I don't think you need to consider fingerboarding or campussing at this stage. Also, be careful training at the end of a session when you are already fatigued, as it is easy to injure yourself. If you are struggling to fit in the regime you want to do then prioritise training your main weaknesses. But in my opinion, at this level of climbing, don't skip on climbing sessions to do other types of training as actual climbing will probably yield the greatest improvements.

All my own opinion and I am no expert on training so might be complete bollocks.

Thanks for the tips! I read about training post-climb so the recovery time would push the climbing sessions to longer waiting period. Is it not advisable to train after climb or just to be careful not to push it, in case of a hard and tiring session on a specific day?

felipefm

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#10 Re: training routine A3+
March 03, 2020, 01:14:51 pm
Well I am no expert either, but Id agree with him. At V3/4 you probably have lots of strength gains to make by just going climbing on problems you find difficult. Stop before you feel really tired, continuing just means you will do less hard climbing because you will take longer to recover before your next session. So lots of shorter good sessions with good rest is best imo

You probably have lots to gain in technique too. This is trickier, but climbing with technically better climbers and doing some reading round will help. John Kettle has a book on technique drills, Dave Macleod has some interesting books, ask around.

I'm just about to finish 'performance rock climbing', by dale goodman and udo neumann, but even having sessions for beginners, it points out to very complex training routines, both for technique and strength gaining. I'm having a hard time finding something suitable as I can't dedicate myself as much as I'd like. That about better sessions actually makes a lot of sense, I've seen some discussions on reddit about having a focused session and leaving some days for hard problems and strength focused sets. thanks, I'll check those books as well!

spidermonkey09

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#11 Re: training routine A3+
March 03, 2020, 01:22:15 pm
I think you're overthinking it. Just go climbing as much as you can and keep trying problems of lots of different styles. There's no shortcut for time spent climbing and at V3 you'll have loads of improvement to make naturally without thinking of it as training.

crzylgs

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#12 Re: training routine A3+
March 03, 2020, 03:22:52 pm
I think you're overthinking it. Just go climbing as much as you can and keep trying problems of lots of different styles. There's no shortcut for time spent climbing and at V3 you'll have loads of improvement to make naturally without thinking of it as training.

 :agree:

dunnyg

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#13 Re: training routine A3+
March 03, 2020, 03:57:28 pm
Love that aid climbing video. Proper mad head

 

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