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training fingers without hanging (Read 731 times)

jwi

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training fingers without hanging
March 02, 2020, 03:44:10 pm
Folks,

I have an unfortunately timed operation on Wednesday. My doctor was at pains to tell me that I was absolutely forbidden to climb, do deadhangs or do pullups for a week after the operation (my doctor's brother is a strong climber so she is clued in) while the skin on the back heals up. I figure that I can do some finger training by attaching an edge to a block of wood and load this with weights. Something like this https://www.thegripster.com/the-gripster-3-0.html but less ridiculous.

Are there any practical considerations I should be aware of? I'm not super keen on lifting ≥40 kg off the floor so I'll make it fairly hard to hang. Since I'm going to Margalef soon I would not mind training my two-finger pairs. Is is worth it to make a pocket or is it ok to just train them on an edge?

abarro81

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#1 Re: training fingers without hanging
March 02, 2020, 03:58:36 pm
Have you got a portable fingerboard? I use mine like this for finger curls if doing BFR (blood flow restriction) training

duncan

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#2 Re: training fingers without hanging
March 02, 2020, 04:08:23 pm
DIY portable fingerboard used in just this way when my shoulder(s) were tweaky. Worked well.

Turboman

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#3 Re: training fingers without hanging
March 02, 2020, 04:57:45 pm
I had similar situation end of last year. Minor op on lower back. Couldn't pullup or hang for 2-3 weeks at risk of splitting stitches. Found I could lift some pretty heavy weights with basic 15mm-20mm crimp setup like Duncans link.  Weights on floor between legs, single hand lift, straight / vertical back and lift with the legs didn't seem to activate the lower back or strain the wound in the slightest.

shark

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#4 Re: training fingers without hanging
March 02, 2020, 07:17:13 pm
Sorry if I’m misunderstanding your issue but can’t you just bear down on a hold one handed without your feet leaving the floor? I do this currently for the recruitment pulls protocol advocated by Tyler Nelson

jwi

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#5 Re: training fingers without hanging
March 02, 2020, 08:42:11 pm
Yeah, I'm not allowed overhead work (or generally stretching the skin on the back) to not split the stitches. The carcinoma they are going to remove is on the skin covering the trapezius so I don't think I can engage a fingerboard above head at all.

jshaw

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#6 Re: training fingers without hanging
March 02, 2020, 08:56:55 pm

I'm not super keen on lifting ≥40 kg off the floor so I'll make it fairly hard to hang.

To reduce the weight considerably you could just train single digits in crimp position using a weight on a sling.

jwi

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#7 Re: training fingers without hanging
March 02, 2020, 09:15:05 pm
I have a mono pocket that I used exactly for this (inspired by an old idea of Köstermeyer) but it takes forever. 10*6 = 60 hangs.

Turboman

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#8 Re: training fingers without hanging
March 02, 2020, 09:52:24 pm
Ash has got you back (literally)

https://www.instagram.com/p/B8v1XZNjuf7/

battery

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#9 Re: training fingers without hanging
March 02, 2020, 10:04:38 pm
You beat me to it! Was just about to post a link to their website with info about their offcut holds!

https://ashclimbing.com/

 

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