[tomtom]

Inspired by Dollys post last week...

M: Sweet potato and cauli korma. Evening trip to Mad Volume. Good session - coming close to ticking board 7A :D good to catch up with SteveR and meet BigIronHorse

Tu: Pepper and broccoli madras. Stretches.

We: Mixed bean cobbler, Baked potato and purple broccoli. Went to Church Crag on the way back to Manchester.. Progress progress on Gullivers but its slow. Twice RP'd through to my previous high point from about 6 weeks ago. Didnt go full steam as I wanted to save some skin. Also made the fatal mistake of not taking any food with me - arrived at 11 and breakfast was long gone by then... felt drained all session.

Thu: Sausages, Potato wedges and broccoli (again!!??). Off to Wilton3. Pissed about on the square as Starship dried - had a good hour on it - worked really hard. Managed not to get any splits but didnt really come close.

Fri: No climbing - but the best meal of the week. Chicken Tikka and Onion Bahji starter, with Lamb Bhuna & Pilau rice.

Sa: Off to Trowbarrow again..... Bah. Frustrating. Conditions were good (windy but good) but had two marginally better attempts at Pit Problem, where I caught the hold but heel came off. Once I caught it sweetly and felt as if it were going to stick and it didnt. I suppose its progress... but frustrating - that squeeze and throw and push all at the same time is a really weird one for me. Had a play on Neds after I was powered out on PP - REALLY fun moves - couldnt get the double toe hook to work but it was the end of the session. Suspect Neds may go before PP... Ah - Left over Bhuna (augmented by some extra peppers) and brown rice.

Su: Not had me dinner yet :D

Summary. Is it bad to have curry 4 nights a week? Scales showed 69.1kg at one point this week... record lows.

[Murph]

Brilliant stuff Tom. I’m always surprised how little you weigh.

STG get back into it and lose a stone
MTG new 7
LTG new 7C

M-
T-5k jog my god it was slow 7:00/k sort of pace. Kettlebells 16kgs.
W-
T-5k jog. Slower this time because of ice. Works 2hr session got about 6 wasps done 6B. Good to try hard.
F-kettlebells 16kg. Starting to feel easier.
S-5k jog. Feeling ok after this. That’s the first time I’ve run thrice in a week for some time.
S-works 2hr session. Irn brus and some wasps. 6A&6B. Ok nothing great. Fingers feel like I’ve done something. All good.

70.0->69.2->68.1kgs

[shark]

11.5-9 average 162.1 up 1.7lbs. Disaster

M.

T. Eve Density hangs. Third session. Good progress. Added full crimps

W. eatswood. Snowy driving across the Peak. Cold at crag. Had to go back to car mid session to warm up. Joined by Toby W and his mate Dave. Then by Fiend. Reworked the Traverse in sections. Moves felt ok. Fiend turned his nose up at Traverse and got stuck into Ten Inch Zombies and both him and Dave got it. Fiend scrambled along the break and checked out and brushed the finishing holds on my old route Bristol Dream which I graded E4 6c at the time also described as a V6 highball in the BMC guide. Recalled at the time that it felt like the hardest move I’d ever done but not how I actually did it. With plenty of mats and spotters it was a good opportunity so I broke off from working the traverse. We initially tried to just use the crimps on the rib. Toby then did it off a fingerlock in the crack and topped pronouncing it only 6C which seemed harsh (though afterwards I see this is what it gets on Jonboys topo) Toby then made a complete meal of reversing the HS break. I was tired by now but went up to see what the fingerlock was like and found myself doing the crux and committing to rocking up on the rail. Dithered trying to work out how to top out. It started snowing which spurred me on to commit and did it. Buzzing.

T. Jackson Tor. Fiend recommendation. Tired but wanted to escape stock market meltdown and do something outside before next front came in. Lovely sunny day. Headed down with dogs and Kate Bush. Did the short jamming corner Sickle VS to warm up. Then had a go at the Stride E1 next to it but bottled committing to rock up so escaped left using juggy rail at top of Sickle. Then had a look at the crimpy wall - Edging Bets E1. No chalk on it. Again bottled it and escaped left into the easy route from where I checked out the higher holds. Back around and did it. Had a second look at the Stride and committed to the rock over assuming it would be all over but transpired there was still the crux to do and no backing off option. Did it ok but felt hairy as was in broken legs territory. Then did the classic 6A Arête. Was feeling tired and uninspired to try harder problems so packed up and went and scoped out Bank Quarry and marvelled at the Power of the Darkside’s patio construction. Jackson and Bank are worthwhile and easily accessible winter venues.
Eve. Reinvigorated after a nap did some assisted one armers and a fingerboard warm up. Supper. Resumed fingerboard doing a recruitment pulls session.

F.

S. AM systems board. Full of good intentions to do PE/ AnCap work but weak on benchmark moves. One go on PE circuit but clear it wasn’t going to happen. Switched to AeroCap and did 3 sets of 20/10’s ie 360 moves

S.

Really cool to highball Bristol Dream 25 years after putting up as a route. Whatever the grade, its a classic and deserves to be popular.

Weight management has slipped disastrously. Four weeks till Malham season so discipline required this month. Despite being obviously well nourished feel tired and run down. Right shoulder still tweaky and left elbow sore. Toying with taking a week off. See how I get on tomorrow.

Booked accommodation for 3 week trip back to RRG in Oct/Nov with habrich.

[tomtom]

Good to see some variety in your week Shark. Instead of having a week off (completely) why not go out 2-3 times and do some fun pottering within your grade - like you did at Jackson etc... keeps the skin and muscles in order and may develop a bit more psyche.

[shark]

Yes a good thought. Weather good this week so a soloing session at Stanage would be good.

Back to Matlock tomorrow with Nick to do some of the other classy easyish highballs and try Back Street Abortionist and put a top rope on the Darkside.

[HarryBD]

Th - Lamp session at the Glen. Warmed up on Tiger Wall which has been a bit of a bogey - only gets f5 but my imagination gets the better of me about the landing... enjoyed the climbing on it. Went and repeated Fearnought which is a class line with good 3D climbing. Tried the first moves on Jam Crack but got scared of having a nasty fall - will come back with a rope. Over to Green Traverse where I unlocked a few moves then tore a hole in my finger. Nice to get out.
F - Picked up some weights I had and put them down repeatedly. Got pretty psyched for getting strong - umming and ahhing about joining the gym next door to work.
Sun - Caley. Warmed up at Mr. Smooth. Managed this after a few goes which is great gritstone knackyness. Tried Horn Rib for a bit but wasn’t really getting anywhere. Did the aretes and middle wall of Roof of the World which were all flattering jug hauls but not actually that good climbing. Couldn’t figure out the undercut start, don’t know if I was just unwilling to burl as required or I was missing a trick. Went to Lippy Lovin which is a really good rising traverse and a sandbag at f5. Pottered up the highballs on the back of Sugarloaf boulder which I really enjoyed - the YMC guide is generous with the number of independent lines on this mind. Skin was just about done but fancied looking at The Prow - managed to hold the first move from the stand which I wasn’t expecting but then slapped to a non-hold and couldn’t repeat back to there. Great day out.

[duncan]

Simon - you don't need to go the full Fiend but I can attest to the rejuvenating effects of easing back a little and exploring somewhere new.

STG: enjoy climbing (when I get the chance); try hard three times a week.
MTG: embrace sport-climbing, RP 7b+; classic sea-cliff (or similar) E5 before 7.06.2020.
LTG: Something Long, Hard and Free tbc

M - Pull-ups +10kg 4x6 sets. Knee strength: single leg squats and high step-ups. Home-made pizza.
T - Knee strength. Dental surgery, generally felt bleugh. Yoghurt and honey.
W - Knee strength. 10km brisk walking. Fish, chips and broccoli
T - Finger strength test: managed 115% body weight (both arms obvs.) for 10 seconds on 20mm edges.  Short ‘max.’ hangs (7 seconds at+10kg x10 reps). Knee strength. Veggie and non-veggie burgers.
F - Pull-ups (+10kg 4x6 sets). 10km brisk walking. Non-home made pizza
S -.Fingerboard ‘max.’ hangs (7 seconds at +10kg). Pull-ups 5x6 sets. Pasta with sun-dried tomatoes, olives and parmesan.
S - Shoulder strength (planks and hand-stands). Knee strength. Cycling with the lad. Observed copulating frogs in the local pond. Made chocolate rice crispies. Non-home made pizza .

No actual climbing, several distractions, but kept the muscles working. Finger strength improving. I was managing 105% bodyweight 6 weeks ago (when I did a 7a+ after a brief working session and a 7b+ with two hangs). Anyone know what 115% equates to in Lattice-world or - conversely - how strong you’re supposed to be to climb 7b+?

[Fiend]

Simon - you don't need to go the full Fiend but I can attest to the rejuvenating effects of easing back a little and exploring somewhere new.

I did suggest Jackson Tor to get a mega-beasting session doing the network of 7A-Bs on the front of the Arete boulder, not for him to go off questing on easy proper solos with the dogs spotting 

[Will Hunt]

Forwent a wall session this week in favour of saving skin for the weekend.

S - Eskdale Fisherground. Started off on that nice highball slab and the 6B to the left. Warmed up some more and did Strong Arete from a stand then sit. Very good indeed. Did Strong Wall which was rank and the nice crack to the left. Went off to the Wilderness area with 8c Jim and climbed the lovely Fisherground Groove and Dilema. Dilema was one of the standout problems of the weekend. Slab magic. Moved on to Animal Crackers and did that first go - soft as anything. Toyed with the idea of going to the Cullinan and decided it was too far to go with probable rain incoming. Back to Fisherground and did the stand to Rob's Wall second go and then some vile 6C lip traverse which completely finished me off. Left everything on the rock to top it out.

S - Carrock Fell. Went to the Northern Sector and a lot of the boulders had rivers running from under them. Sacrificed some (other people's) foam and did Rouse's Wall and Boardman's RH and the stand of Boardman's. Up to the Canada Dry boulder and flashed the 4 problems on it. Nova Scotia is brilliant but incredibly overgraded.
Back down and everyone had packed up and gone to Toejam and Earl. Dropped the pads at the car and joined them with shoes. Was quite disappointed we hadn't come here first. Hockstack looks brilliant and Toejam itself looks strangely doable. Must come back some time. And the rock is much friendlier on the skin in this sector. Skin was screaming in protest at this point but Jim had a wave of psyche and we got our shoes out to do the 7A+ finish of Toejam. Did this second go and very much enjoyed it. Thought it more like 6C but found out later that it's supposed to be a sit, which the people who showed it to us hadn't mentioned. We started on the obvious big flake. Not sure if a sit adds much?

[nai]

STG:  Jerry's Roof on Wales (weather dependent) trip first week March. Few things to go at in Northumberland this week
2020 Lime, Grit and AN Other Font 7Cs.

M second rest day. Shoulder and back both started randomly tweaking PM

T - Started warming up thinking whatever impingements two days rest had brought one would disappear but they didn't. Kept thinking I'd identified the position my shoulder didn't like but then couldn't reproduce it then it'd twinge in a different position.  Tried deadhanging instead but wasn't sure so just got stuck in with a massage ball and did some stretching
Developed sore throat and felt a bit Meh PM

W - Overnight had decided maybe I could try some repeaters, lower intensity so shoulder might tolerate it. Thorough warm up then did indeed manage 6 sets of 7 reps all at bodyweight or less. 
Few light weights, shoulder press, rows, pressups. To get some blood flowing...
Decided to get stuck into back with some squats and lunges at about 60%.  Three careful sets of each
Lots of massage and some stretching

Th - shoulder felt better except for the point I'd hammered with a ball. Met Plattsy at Curbar and did a nice easy circuit including Fab Arete for the first time.

F - more Repeaters
Bit of core

S rest. Throat a bit better.

S drove to Northumberland. Didn't have long so headed to Bowden, closest and shortest approach, but hadn't realised just how windy it was, knew at the parking that it was a no go so walked into Back Bowden. Struggled to get going and having forgotten gloves fingers quickly numbed out. Fondled the holds on the problems I could identify then went home to harvest beta.

[moose]

Anyone else read Will's entry and have flashbacks to the first series of The Trip, where Steve Coogan and Rob Brydon toured the Lakes, ate in nice restaurants, and sparred with one-another through Michael Caine impressions? 

I'm thinking of pitching a climbing equivalent to the BMC.  Will and Jimbob's odd-couple travelogue, showcasing the best of esoteric UK bouldering, cranking on choss and japes aplenty, with passive aggressive jousting via the medium of downgrading.  Get Mike Cheque to film it  and jobs'a'good'un.

[Will Hunt]

You'll have to contact my agent but I'm sure I'm available.

[sdm]

Summary. Is it bad to have curry 4 nights a week? Scales showed 69.1kg at one point this week... record lows.

I lost quite a bit of weight eating curry for breakfast, lunch and dinner for a year, including at least one thali most days.

[Dolly]

I know I should have held it

[mark20]

Yes a good thought. Weather good this week so a soloing session at Stanage would be good.

Back to Matlock tomorrow with Nick to do some of the other classy easyish highballs and try Back Street Abortionist and put a top rope on the Darkside.

There’s a lovely 6C+ arête climbed its LHS on the next buttress to the right of Back St Ab. Techy with a slightly high finish but flat landing , well worth seeking out

[shark]

Thanks Mark - I’ll take a look

[Coops_13]

Wow tomtom, you must have an incredible reach-to-weight ratio...

M: DBC. Feeling a bit sore from Saturday so played it carefully. 7 boulders up to E+, 11 M-, 8 M. Closer on a couple of M+ but still out of reach. 5* 10 sec hangs on BM1k edges. 8 pull-ups *5. Pressups on medicine ball either side (18 total). Shoulder symmetry band workout. Wrist curls 10lb supinated, 8lb pronated. Front lever pulls to finish, wasn't too bad

T: Apartment Gym. 10 mins elliptical. Core workout - 300 movements. Overhead press, chest press

T: Spot Denver. Warmed up then spent climbing session on the Kilter board at 35 degrees. 1 V0, 2 V2, 4 V3, 11 V4, 1 V5. I think I took warm-up too quick as wrist felt sore on some moves and too sore for fingerboard. 8 pull-ups *5. Pressups on medicine ball either side (18 total). Wrist curls 10lb supinated, 8lb pronated. Some shoulder and bicep work

S: Keystone half-day. 17k ft descent, 27 miles. New PB top speed 54.2 mph. Bumped into a work mate an did some harder runs including a tree-run - not my forte

S: Morrison Dark Side. Morning ticking moderates here before the weather turned. Warmed up and did the classic highball finger crack, Breashears' Crack II V3. Then did a lowball V3 called Super Phun Thyme before working and sending a really good V4 called Slots. Then went down to Dasani, a problem I did in April and was good to repeat that quickly. Some say V6 but for sure only V5. First V5 since injury Finished off with a nice V3 called MoSo Roof. Video of the mentioned problems below:


Thursday's session made my wrist sore, definitely warmed up too fast. It seems that my wrist can be very sore until int's fully warm, then I'm able to try hard...

[eastside]

Power Club!

M: Bench 3x5@115, overhead press 3x5@55, dips 3x3
T: warmup row 500m, 15 v-points, repeaters 1/2 crimp, sloper, pinch with integrated strength pullups 3x5, row 75x3x8, hanging knee raise 3x8, I'sY'sT's
W: Buttermilks, Birthday Left v0, Prow v1, Birthday Direct v3, Fly Boy Arete v5, Lululator v4, Egypt v3, Buttermilk Stem v1; punted off of Shelter from the Storm v5, Gleaming the Cube v6
T: Front squat 3x5@70, deadlift 2x5@155
F: Worked overnight the night before, slept til noon then spent 5 hours painting the house. Not quite a rest day but no training
S: Ten hours of painting finished the project. Just enough energy to lift again Bench 3x5@120, overhead 3x5@60, dips 3x4, L sit 3x 5s
S: Hangboards again: rowing, 15 v points, repeaters 1/2 crimp, sloper, pinch with integrated pullups 5, 4, 4; row 3x8@85, knee raise 3x8

Feeling pretty worked from the house project and working night shifts. Managed to hit most of my goals for the week though. The body is willing even if the mind is weak.

[gollum]

M - Original plan was to go to Big Depot and try some routes and the problems there. Unfortunately, Steve’s bus is stuck in the snow and he can’t get there, so decide to go to Sheffield Depot as have some stuff to pick up there.
Rehab continues and decide to warm up working through the classic powerlifting lifts. Aim is to achieve 3 reps at 75% of my normal 1RM, which seems to happen relatively easily for all three lifts and form is okay too which is a bonus. Also do so overhead press in same ratios and a bit of dumbbell pressing for fun.
Whipped around a few of the red problems that I tried last week when I was knackered and had much more success although there is a long thing in a big roof that still has me stumped.
Finish off with some very brief deadhangs just to see where I am with them, I think I might start to introduce them again soon.

T - Final PT session and test of how rehab is going. Warm up with bands before light shoulder presses and landmine presses. Finish working through full set of bench press starting at 5 reps and working to 1 rep. Finish at 1x95k. Happy enough with that as think I may be healed and have taken rehab slowly to get back here. Now slowly build to being happy to lift 100 without a spotter, so a way to go.
Trip to Big Depot. Do a few of the purples, handful of woods, most of the reds and then finish doing all the blacks and blues. Wasted by the end of the session but happy enough.

W- Treadmill run.

T - Trip up to Shipley Glen. Get up a few bits and bobs that I’d done years ago. Fail to get up Manson’s Wall although feel pretty comfortable, just can’t quite find a sequence that works. Fun to play on without any chalk on it and still a bit of a winter coat to hide the obvious holds. Finish off trying the arête to the left. Get to both hands on top but can’t swim through the slimey top so jump off the top which is exciting to au the least. A good time was had by all.

F- Quick trip to Leeds Depot. Do the black circuit trying to not swap feet on any holds and trying to down climb each problem in control.  Finish off with circuits going up and back down in difficulty, which is highly entertaining.

S - Travel to Mayrhofen and get there just after lunch so get half a day snowboarding with some decent powder and tree runs.

S - More snowboarding. Today riding at Zell am Ziller. Some off piste adventures and found some really good snow. Top day.

A good week easing back into things.

[yetix]

M: Weighted Pull Ups 3x5, IYT on rings 3x8 of each
T: Rest
W: Max hangs in AM 4x10s, Alsmscliffe in PM. Managed to do Underhand fairly quickly before the wind picked up. Rested for an hour or so then warmed up doing the extension moves. Moved onto the Keel and managed to do all the moves very quickly, but found it hard to stay warm in the wind. Eventually managed a link from the Keel LH and RH in slot under roof to the top (I use some weird heel above my head to avoid the awkward cutloose). Started from the bottom and got to the campus move x6 times. Kept powering out. Going back fresh on Wednesday, hopefully less wind as per forecast will help!
T: Rest
F: Max hangs in AM 4x10s, BUK 55 & 45 boards in PM. Felt pretty spent before the session started but still managed to repeat a fair few fairly hard things (for me) with more work than I expected.
S: Rest
S: Parisella's cave. Had planned to get on RA from WB and Highlife. Felt rubbish on RA just after/during my warm up and for some reason decided to move on to Ferinno. Plesantly surpised myself by getting to the first pocket once and to the rail fairly consistently despite not trying this for aeons. Pretty psyched to go back for this one.

[Bradders]

M - Depot Pudsey. After a few warm ups tried one of the oranges I'd been working the day before and did it 2nd go. Tried another of the ones I'd worked before and got to the top move first go, but very slightly miss hit the hold and took an awkward scary fall. It's one of those where they've bizarrely set an off balance dyno to the top off a terrible slopey foothold. Injury waiting to happen if you ask me. Decided it wasn't worth another go and went on the 50. One go each on two projects, then spent a while trying a new one which turned out to be really cool; all moves done and good links. Then put 1kg ankle weights on and had one go each on 7 problems all longer advanced warm up or ex-project sort of things on decent holds but lots of moves. Only actually did one of them but made it most of the way through all.

T & W - nada, busy at work

T - Almscliff, back on Exorcist Ear after a three week break. Took a little while to warm up into some of the positions and re-learn micro beta but long story short; where last time I went for the ear move twice, this time I got there from the start six times and just couldn't quite pull it out of the bag. So frustrating. Beginning to wonder whether it wouldn't be easier finishing up DWR LH, as I've never found that too bad. Finished doing all the low-mid 7s on DWR and the crucifix.

F - lunch gym elbow rehab.

S - Depot Pudsey. Power hour on the 50, dropped last move x3 on one project and tried the stopper move on another in isolation but couldn't do it.

S - Almscliff late afternoon. Glorious. Moderate winds and a stunning sunset, but the place deserted. Felt very lucky. Not so lucky on Exorcist Ear. Only had two hours until dark so time for just a few goes. Had come across a video of someone doing the move statically via a big lock off a heel; it worked and felt maybe slightly more powerful but less reliant on luck than my original method. Three goes from the start, got to the ear move on all three and got genuine inertia on the hold on last go but hadn't quite hit it high enough; millimetres away from sticking it. Very frustrating.

[tomtom]

Close Bradders... it’s those oh so near misses that are heartbreakers but why we do it all in one!

[JohnM]

Weight 10st4-6lb

M: Rest

T: Routes at KI. Warm-up and then 3 7c onsights with a try on an 8a in between (very sustained but good links). Fell off the last move of a 7b+ to finish. Best indoor route session for a long time.

W: Rest

T: Bouldering up to V7. Assisted one arm deadhangs on beastmaker middle rung. 3x 6kg assist + 3 x 8kg assist. 5 x weighted 2 arm hangs on beastmaker lower outer edges + 20kg x 5. Weighted pull-ups. 3 x 3 15kg, 3 x 5 10kg, 3 x 8 5kg (8,7,6 in last set).

F: AM: Trail run 7km + 512m elevation gain. PM: Bouldering up to V5, then routes. 1 7c onsight, 1 7c second go then straight after 7b+, 7b and 7b (fail). A friend's shoulder completely dislocated which was pretty grim. The phone conversation later on when she was on morphine was hilarious!

S: Trail run 11.59km with 850m height gain.

S: Climbing at Achleiten. Had an epic getting to the crag and ended up stranded in a mainly destroyed forest that appeared to be falling down the mountain on a 45 degree mud slope above the crag. Arrived at the crag lucky to be alive. Fell off a 7b I had done before warming up after fluffing the sequence but still a good warm up. Tried to onsight the classic 30m 7c+ at the crag. Punted the move right at the top and did it second go. Then an onsight go on an 8a+. I felt like a young Adam Ondra power screaming up the rock, completely immersed in the climbing and blissfully naive and unaware of corporate pressures, sex, women and speed climbing. I fell off at the crux. Worked out the moves, had another go but fell off the crux...again. Next time!

A great week despite work stress increasing for the first time in a while. I managed an average of 4-5 hours sleep every night for the week and was often at the computer just before 5am too stressed to sleep. It seems I can cope with that and everything else for a about a week but not much more so hopefully and I get things back under control this week. It was good to get 4 climbing sessions in and I feel like I am really getting the flow back both indoors and on rock. My short term aim indoors was to climb all the 7c routes on the main wall (7) and I have done that now so I will aim to do a small pyramid of 3 x 7c+s, 2 8as and 1 8a+ before my trip to Istria in April.

[SA Chris]

M - not a lot
T - not a lot
W - lunchtime run - 7.5 km. Evening bouldering session. Good session, although nothing significant done.
T - lunchtime dreadmill tempo session. I fucking hate treadmills.
F - nothing
S - long run home from town. 32 km. 80% trails, rest country roads. beautiful run, great weather, only got tipped on for last 3 or so  miles.
S - walk in woods with kids. Found some jumps that have been built, kids keen to have a go on bikes once they dry out.

[eastside]

Finish working through full set of bench press starting at 5 reps and working to 1 rep. Finish at 1x95k. Happy enough with that as think I may be healed and have taken rehab slowly to get back here. Now slowly build to being happy to lift 100 without a spotter, so a way to go.

Nice man, I'll be happy to reach that milestone as well, I was almost there when I tore my rotator cuff in a heinous rag doll cartwheel whilst being a bit too aggressive on the snowboard a while back. Shoulder is better now but haven't built the strength back yet

[sam_read]

Nothing for me this week unfortunately, started a new job in Bournemouth so spent the entire week down there meeting folk 8 - 5 in the office then out each evening on work socials.

I’m getting slightly better at accepting when this happens, it is what it is, especially with new jobs. I’ve got myself a problem solver finger board to take away with me when I stay away for work, the hotel has a good gym/sauna.

Did some work at a doctors surgery so made the most of the scales at weighed in at 65kg, nearly on my fighting weight for when spring arrives.

[moose]

Wow tomtom, you must have an incredible reach-to-weight ratio...

Oh my sweet summer child, you ain't seen nuthin' yet!

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - ab wheels, weights.
Tue - rest.
Wed - fingers garage, quite good. TB DL in between hangs up to 2xBW again after ages without going heavy. Rack pulls then. Heavy session.
Thu - clean and press finisher 30" 36 kg, brutal; pull ups finisher 30" idem; landmine complex lateral pulls (5" pause at top) into press. Good session despite being physically tired.
Fri - rest.
Sat - weights, mainly finishers.
Sun - rest.

[tomtom]

Wow tomtom, you must have an incredible reach-to-weight ratio...

Oh my sweet summer child, you ain't seen nuthin' yet!

:D

If only I had some power...

[Fiend]

 

[spidermonkey09]

M - skin was fucked after Sunday's dash to Gardoms. Did one arm hangs benchmarking session anyway. Used same large edge as I've been using for two arm hangs for comparison. Calculated ratio of 1:1.75 which I think means I have a fairly average bilateral deficit. Time to get a slightly smaller edge. All the max hang protocols suggest using a 20mm edge but I can't seem to find one for sale online. If anyone has a suitably sized spare campus rung please give me a shout.

T - Wall. Mostly played on the board to preserve skin with its nice smooth wooden holds.. Did a 7A+ in two overlapping halves repeatedly but couldn't stick the final jump to a slot.

W - Core. Boring but effective. Finished with properly stretching hamstrings for first time in probably years!

T - Max hangs again, this time using middle slot on BM2K. A lot harder on this slightly smaller edge. Managed to just about maintain the level of 7.5kg assist, only failing on last few seconds of the 5th set.

F - schlepped up to the Western Lakes from Leicester. Long way!

S - Eskdale Fisherground. Some nice enjoyable warm ups on the Diamond Slab. Strong Arete on the next boulder up was excellent although seemed to have discovered a new and far easier sequence than the book suggests. Dilemma at about 6B was also very good down in the woods. Ticked some other bits and pieces before finishing by by thrashing myself on Robs Wall stand. Should have flashed it and tickled the top hold before going backwards as the power went down. Sharp rock took its toll on my skin but a great venue.

S - Carrock Fell. Never been before so was psyched. Some great vertical highballs on the Boardman Boulder before slogging up the hill to the Canada Boulder. As much as it pains me to agree with Will's downgrade Nova Scotia Arete is not 6C+; it is however very good. Went across to the Toe Jam & Earl boulder and did the second half of this at allegedly 7A+. Felt about 6C starting from the extremely obvious jug at chest height, only to discover later that the problem apparently starts two moves lower. Why it does this is anyone's guess when the starting hold is that obvious; the search for difficulty at the expense of a good, balanced problem strikes again.. finished up at Knight Rider which looked amazing. Would have liked to try it but was wasted by this point. Everyone else smashed it in which was great to watch.

Great weekend in the Lakes; still chronically dehydrated after drinking more wine than water across the two days.