Attempting to correct this and keep my wrist straight I had to hang directly under the edge and my elbows had to be locked out straight, but the results were pretty good as I added 12.5kg to my previous best effort and today my forearms are wrecked. It didn't feel great on the elbows though being locked out.Question is, where am I weak or immobile such that I cant keep my wrists in a more neutral position AND engage the elbows slightly at the same time? Or do I just need to get used to hanging on a straight arm? I feel like my shoulder/core/arm strength are quite good already, certainly well above my finger strength.
I don't really understand why you would want to hang totally straight armed, I think the position you describe ending up in is exactly where you want to be, arms slightly engaged feet slightly in front. I think if you want to feel it in your forearms do longer hangs or do a couple of pull ups immediately after your hand without letting go.
The obvious explanation as to why fingerboarding hasn't improved your climbing (in your view) is that pure finger strength isn't the rate limiting factor.
Hold on, I thought you were saying in your OP that you were struggling to gain finger strength fingerboarding? But there you say it makes a big difference? So clearly whatever you're doing IS working to a reasonable extent.. so while you may want to tweak it slightly, you don't need to worry about it too much.
Try doing the hangs straight armed for a while, make sure shoulders are engaged, build up slowly, see what happens...
[ My lattice-esque benchmarking shows my fingers are around 3-4 V grades weaker than my actual boulder grade. Improving my finger strength on the fingerboard meant I could walk up problems on the board that I couldn't do previously.
Quote from: Liamhutch89 on February 21, 2020, 01:23:42 pm[ My lattice-esque benchmarking shows my fingers are around 3-4 V grades weaker than my actual boulder grade. Improving my finger strength on the fingerboard meant I could walk up problems on the board that I couldn't do previously. So if your fingerboarding is working so well why are you concerned about your form
BM1K bottom edges which I think are a tiny bit easier than the lattice edge. Yes, knowing i'm not especially weak is nice and now I can focus on getting good rather than getting strong.
Clearly I was doing something very wrong before.
doesn't sound weak to me!
This is bizarre. I suspect you just weren't actually going anywhere near your max before; as in you could always have gone heavier but something was holding you back. Maybe something mental? E.g. thinking you couldn't go heavier? Fear of injury? Also strange you're getting actual forearm soreness to be honest; max hangs are meant to stress your nervous system and tendon/ligament structure rather than inducing the sort of soreness you'd normally associate with muscular hypertrophy.I don't have any explanations though.
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