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Is it worth flying across the Atlantic to climb on the grit? (Read 14189 times)

petejh

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Fairhead meet is traditionally the last weekend of May. The main meet is trad but for the last few years a concurrent bouldering meet has been organised by guidebook writer Rob Hunter.
Plenty of safe brilliant problems for a lone boulderer with 3 pads and a lot of the best blocs have had the landings patio'd (getalifegetapallet..) or improved. Also plenty of 30-foot horrors with 20-foot holes under them!

Mournes, Cooleys gabbro, Wicklow, some great stuff on the west coast of Donegal, plenty of top quality areas if you scan the select guidebook, think the second edition is out this year?

eastside

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Thanks for all the responses! And thanks for the generous offer Jamie.

Brought this subject up to the wife last night. She's psyched actually possibly even for next year but also wants to include Scotland. Which sounds adventurous. I think we'd likely get a van and bring trad gear as well and have a mixed bouldering/trade/wandering about type of trip. I'm most psyched for the grit for boulders and trad but from that video Kilshorn looks pretty epic as well, minus the midges. Is there a window of time in the fall when it gets cold enough to kill the bugs but still dry enough to climb?

Thanks again

SA Chris

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Kishorn boulders are good, but a bit limited and spread out.

Torridon is miles better, the rock quality, lines and scenery are just amazing. Long drive from the Peak, but loads of options for stopping places on the way if you are road tripping it; Lakes, Glen Nevis, even Dumby if you are desperate!

Midges are rarely an issue out before mid / late May, but can be a bit earlier if it's really mild. Late April you would generally be OK.

Coops_13

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I think if you include Scotland then you need to be prepared to not get to all the places you may have on your list and definitely come back. I did a two week road trip round Scotland that was mostly trad but some bouldering and sport. It included Old Man of Hoy and then all the way down the W coast. The trad and all places we went was amazing, especially the further North you go. April you should be OK for midges and can occasionally have amazing weather (blue skies, snow on mountains) if you’re lucky

Trail

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Fairhead meet is traditionally the last weekend of May. The main meet is trad but for the last few years a concurrent bouldering meet has been organised by guidebook writer Rob Hunter.
Plenty of safe brilliant problems for a lone boulderer with 3 pads and a lot of the best blocs have had the landings patio'd (getalifegetapallet..) or improved. Also plenty of 30-foot horrors with 20-foot holes under them!

Mournes, Cooleys gabbro, Wicklow, some great stuff on the west coast of Donegal, plenty of top quality areas if you scan the select guidebook, think the second edition is out this year?

Also think the new Fairhead bouldering guide is due this year with loads more stuff in it!
Not made it bouldering in Donegal yet to my eternal shame, split arete is a great looking piece of rock

As an aside, what's the biggest bouldering area in the UK? I'm guessing Fairhead must be in with a shout

SA Chris

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Trail

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I think post the new guide it'll be well over 1K!

nai

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https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=18678

513 listed problems!!

Pah, might as well go to Church just as many linkups and minor variations.

cheque

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As an aside, what's the biggest bouldering area in the UK? I'm guessing Fairhead must be in with a shout

Here's a thread pondering that very question.

SA Chris

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Too out of date to be of value. Stanage must have had at least that same amount added by Bonjoy in the last decade alone

Paul B

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I’ve been to Yosemite three times for 2 weeks... two of those visits included 4/5 day snowstorms!

 :tumble: did getting rained/weathered off on UK Grit just get compared to having the same happen in Yosemite  :-[?

Last year in France we took the back roads from Versailles all the way to where we were staying in Larchant by sector Elephant, it was two hours of windy little roads and quite exhausting, and they drive on the "right" side of the road!

Have the people recommending the likes of Torridon read this? Torridon is 8H from Manchester Airport and about 11H from the London airports!

Anyhow I give up. Anyone for Danny's?

SA Chris

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compared to French roads A9 is a doddle (as long as you don't get stuck behind an Artic and know how Average Speed Cameras work).

owensum

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Doing a trip where you're chasing the unreliable weather forecast around the UK sounds miserable to me. You'll be constantly driving like a demented squirrel and profoundly disappointed in how changeable the conditions are anyway. Better just pick a spot and make the most out of it.

Alex-the-Alex

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Just have a word with the pilot: https://www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2020/02/200212121959.htm

And Kishorn is on another level to Torridon. It makes the soul sing. Torridon I just end up below Malcs with soggy boots.

And not that it matters but id rather one good day at Wolfrey or Slipstones than a week in Yosemite. 

moose

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And not that it matters but id rather one good day at Wolfrey or Slipstones than a week in Yosemite.

Slightly off topic but I've never climbed at Great Wolfrey.  The unknownstones guide looks like there's a great day to be had just doing lots of 4s/5/s low 6s.  So, do you think it's worth the 1 hr walk-in if you're a solo low 7s climber - two pads, no spotters?

Bradders

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And not that it matters but id rather one good day at Wolfrey or Slipstones than a week in Yosemite.

Slightly off topic but I've never climbed at Great Wolfrey.  The unknownstones guide looks like there's a great day to be had just doing lots of 4s/5/s low 6s.  So, do you think it's worth the 1 hr walk-in if you're a solo low 7s climber - two pads, no spotters?

Not that you asked for my opinion but I think you'd get most out of a visit going in at least a pair. It's a long way with one pad let alone two, and will feel even longer if something goes wrong and you have to crawl back. Superb venue though.

Will Hunt

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And not that it matters but id rather one good day at Wolfrey or Slipstones than a week in Yosemite.

Slightly off topic but I've never climbed at Great Wolfrey.  The unknownstones guide looks like there's a great day to be had just doing lots of 4s/5/s low 6s.  So, do you think it's worth the 1 hr walk-in if you're a solo low 7s climber - two pads, no spotters?

Of course. Wepwawet would really suit you. It's a Nez problem and it's basically Malham distilled into a boulder problem. Virtually every hold is a gaston with tonnes of core and shuffling your feet around to gain an inch of height. Loads of new stuff gone up. I think you'd probably be OK with 2 pads but even better would be to go with a friend.

The walk in really isn't that bad. Considering that Lord's Seat must take about 40-50 mins to walk to and that involves a big steep hill at the start. Wolfrey has a flat approach.

moose

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Cheers. If it ever stops raining I'll give it a go - partners / spotters are unlikely, so I'll just have to be cautious.

turnipturned

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And not that it matters but id rather one good day at Wolfrey or Slipstones than a week in Yosemite.

Slightly off topic but I've never climbed at Great Wolfrey.  The unknownstones guide looks like there's a great day to be had just doing lots of 4s/5/s low 6s.  So, do you think it's worth the 1 hr walk-in if you're a solo low 7s climber - two pads, no spotters?

Of course. Wepwawet would really suit you. It's a Nez problem and it's basically Malham distilled into a boulder problem. Virtually every hold is a gaston with tonnes of core and shuffling your feet around to gain an inch of height. Loads of new stuff gone up. I think you'd probably be OK with 2 pads but even better would be to go with a friend.

The walk in really isn't that bad. Considering that Lord's Seat must take about 40-50 mins to walk to and that involves a big steep hill at the start. Wolfrey has a flat approach.

You what will? must be your lanky arse legs, took me 1hr 15 to get up to G Wolfrey. Takes me 30mins to get up to lords.

Anyway, coming for a trip. Think it depends on your situation. If you have a busy ass life and just want to go climbing for three weeks with some guarantee of touching rock, then UK grit is not the best option.

If you just want to come and experience some great varied and unique climbing, in the lovely (albeit, completely fucked) English countryside and do something a bit different to everyone else, you will have an absolute blast and I am sure lots of people will help you out.

Carbon debate: the irony is, if you keep travelling to escape the British weather it will only get fucking worse.

SA Chris

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You what will? must be your lanky arse legs, took me 1hr 15 to get up to G Wolfrey. Takes me 30mins to get up to lords.


He's fucking downgrading walk-ins now.

SA Chris

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And Kishorn is on another level to Torridon. It makes the soul sing. Torridon I just end up below Malcs with soggy boots.


It would be great if there was more than just one problem at Torridon.

scragrock

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In answer to your initial Post/Question - YES :2thumbsup:

Grit is wonderful and the landscape and country that it sits in tends to be just as great, i used to travel from the Highlands of Scotland at least once a year to spend a fun packed week falling off it. Admittedly it was always in the summer so...And here in the main issue- We went at this time of year to guarantee good weather{and even then it might rain} BUT as it has been pointed out just lower your expectations and you will still have an awesome time. This is True for the whole of the UK.

As for Wales/Ireland/Scotland in a camper-van after or before sampling the Grit...i suspect you will not have enough time.
2 weeks just isn't enough to cover everything.

If you fly into Manchester, pick up a Van you are pretty close for the Peak and not too far from the best bits of Wales, Yorkshire,The lakes and Northumberland. A lot further to go if you fly into London.

The best bits of Scotland are However 1 days drive away{at least} and 1 days drive back down.
If you do make it up north give me a shout and i can point you in the direction of Great climbing/camping/Adventure/culture and maybe a hand with gear.

Ireland is almost certainly a separate trip {and rightly so}  Its an amazing country and deserves time in itself.

Best of luck and happy travels




Alex-the-Alex

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It would be great if there was more than just one problem at Torridon.

Fair, I probably shouldn't make such sweeping statements about a venue  ;)

This made me want to get back there the other day

https://www.flickr.com/photos/100362744@N02/49501573053/

I'd agree with Will. The wolfrey walk in isn't that bad. But I wasn't carrying two pads...

tim palmer

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It would be great if there was more than just one problem at Torridon.

I have never been but from what I understand this is absolutely not the case, various people have told me it is potentially the best bouldering in the country.  I know tstubb has been, I am sure he will have something to say about it.

Edit:  was this a facetious comment?
« Last Edit: February 20, 2020, 10:31:35 am by tim palmer »

GazM

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It would be great if there was more than just one problem at Torridon.

I have never been but from what I understand this is absolutely not the case, various people have told me it is potentially the best bouldering in the country.  I know tstubb has been, I am sure he will have something to say about it.

I suspect you may have fallen foul of Chris' sarcasm. Or I've fallen foul of yours...

 

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