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Global Dampening Club 518 10-16 Feb 2020 (Read 8118 times)

yetix

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Global Dampening Club 518 10-16 Feb 2020
February 16, 2020, 05:53:17 pm
Afternoon!

M: BUK board session, tried to repeat as many things as I could in sub 3 goes. Managed 12. Productive session with some quite hard repeats (for me). Was close to doing a couple of things for the first time within this session too.
T rest
W went to Ultimate Warrior, managed to get through to the move to the dog tooth hold in the stand and somehow explode off. Split my tip doing the key sit move shortly after. Psyched to go back for this one but a little gutted it didn't go down. Went to the cave and got on cave life high, managed to get across the arch everytime despite being quite fatigued already. Fairly confident I can do this if I go to the cave fresh.
T: sub maximal hangs 10sx6 at 90%, weighted pull ups 3x5
F: rest
S: BUK 55 board, put something new on the board and worked on another new problem. Tried something new and got all the moves, but too tired to link at the end of the session.
S: sub maximal hangs 10sx12 at 85-90%, weighted pull ups 3x5, rings IYTs 3x8 of each

Pretty heavy week but 5 days of rest for me now as I'm off snowboarding. Probably the longest period off climbing I'll have had at least a year!

Coops_13

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#1 Re: Global Dampening Club 518 10-16 Feb 2020
February 17, 2020, 12:05:56 am
Mon: Apartment Gym. 10 mins elliptical. Core workout - 300 core movements. Attempted press-ups but wrist flared up a bit from the day before :(

Wed: Hotel Gym. 10 mins elliptical. Core workout - 300 core movements. Finished with 10 ab-wheel rolls

Sat: Morrison North. First outdoor bouldering in five months, psyched. So good to be back out. Dark Side was in shade and covered in snow so came here. Pottered on easy problems around V0 for a while and did Nautilus Traverse V3. Tried Make My Day V4 with a guy from Ohio, felt tough for me in my current condition. Finger I injured in May complaining a bit. Managed to do it after quite some effort but very satisfied. Went to repeat Breashears Crack V2 in the Black Hole (Eliminate venue that I injured finger at in May) and tweaked wrist slightly (should have called it five mins before). No lasting pain from that though fortunately

Sun: Apartment Gym. Core workout - 300 core movements. Press-ups on sideways kettle bell *3 each side * 3 sets = 18 press-ups. Shoulder workout with overhead press, chest press, shoulder cable exercises. Squats and leg press to finish

V happy to get out, going to try to get outside once a week going forwards. About to start traveling again lots so will need to try and fit in the indoor sessions.

duncan

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#2 Re: Global Dampening Club 518 10-16 Feb 2020
February 17, 2020, 07:39:39 am
STG: enjoy climbing (when I get the chance); try hard three times a week.
MTG: embrace sport-climbing, RP 7b+; classic sea-cliff (or similar) E5 before 7.06.2020.
LTG: tbc


M - Fingerboard ‘max.’ hangs (7 seconds at +5kg); shoulder strength: handstands, side planks, asymmetric press-ups, IsTsYs.
T - Pull-ups (6x5, +5kg); 10km brisk walking
W - Shoulder strength; short run.
T - Fingerboard ‘max.’ hangs (7 seconds at +7.5kg)
F - Pull-ups (6x5, +7.5kg), 9km brisk walking
S - Fingerboard ‘max.’ hangs (7 seconds at +7.5kg), slow train to Edinburgh.
S - Shoulder strength. 12km brisk walking in a high breeze over the Pentlands.

Week 3 of single parenting. This is quite hard work and it’s difficult to fit in climbing. First week with nobe of any description since November and a month since I was outdoors. Fingerboarding and pull-ups are going quite well so far. Will be interesting to see if it translates onto rock in any way. 

Plan: more of this.

James Malloch

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#3 Re: Global Dampening Club 518 10-16 Feb 2020
February 17, 2020, 08:35:29 am
Quiet week for me. Needed a bit of rest I think as finger was a bit sore last week. However felt like I was going pretty well in the sessions I did have.

Weds - Physio in the morning. Injured the muscles in my shoulder blade last year and it’s never got better. It’s been flaring up a lot with working from home more as I don’t have a great desk set up. Physio changed tack this time and investigated my neck which seemed to trigger the injury when pressed.

30 mins of torture followed but no back pain was had for the rest of the day. Hopefully this will allow it to be sorted out properly. It doesn’t hold me back climbing but  gets really painful day-to-day.

Evening at City Bloc, Leeds. Decent Warm up on Blues, Greys & Yellows. Went up stairs and did 1/2 easier board problems before trying the project I set last time. Refined a bit of beta to recruit and then had a go - bailed due to the people deciding to start stretching in the fall zone of the last move whilst I was climbing. Fired it off next go whilst filled with anger.

Thought it would be really hard to link but went quickly. c.9 moves with some long pulls on holds I’ve not used for a while (I like my jugs). Expected it to be in the 7B range but who knows now, maybe just 6C-7A. Not that grading is that useful on boards... Psyched though! Left middle finger felt a bit sore in 3rd pad so called it a day.

Finished the session off with some weighted pull-ups and a load of physio exercises (to be fair I did half of this under the board but I was the only one there).


Sunday - Pudsey Depot. Basic session - did a proper warm up for the first time in a while. And then did a bunch of the wood circuit. Nice to be trying something a bit different to the reds/purples. Though found I would generally flash or not do them.

Physio exercises to finish.

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#4 Re: Global Dampening Club 518 10-16 Feb 2020
February 17, 2020, 08:57:03 am
Morning

Mon - 6a x 4 then 6a + x 4 as warm up for a 4x4 session however got distracted by a friend on the board so had a 1.5 hour try hard session instead. Made progress on the crimpy problem I mention weekly on here and also a wide pinch problem which very much isn't my style.

Tue - 6a+ x 4 and another 6a+ x 4 to warm up then 4x4 sets on 6b+, 6b+, 6c+ and 6c+, nearly onsighted a 7a after all of this so clearly the fitness comes quick and I need to find a partner to move this onto a lead wall.

Wed - Pull up pyramid 1 - 8 and back down to 1 again, rested on 7 and 8 but completed the number. 10 x 3 wide push up, 10 x 3 shoulder press 8kg L & 10kg R and 10 x 3 TRX Y & T to finish.

Thur - Rest

Fri - General bouldering session, pleased to flash a V4 on blobby holds which is rare for me, good 2 hour board session trying new things and further progress on projects.

Sat - Rest

Sun - Visit to Stronghold, my favourite of the London walls, good session with a balance of try hard and volume. Did a good number of the V3-5 and V4-6 circuits. Good reminder to try things more than a couple of times, something I'm good at on the board but not on circuits for some reason.

A good week, I'm feeling fitter and stronger on long moves able to keep my feet on, seemingly being beholden to update to people I don't know on a weekly basis is helping so thanks all!

Need to try and get better at doing a couple of strength sessions a week, pull up pyramids particularly have always given be a good boost.

Murph

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#5 Re: Global Dampening Club 518 10-16 Feb 2020
February 17, 2020, 09:16:23 am
Morning chaps I’m coming back in.

Coops - great to hear you are back on rock!

You know that scene in Star Wars when Luke is told to “use the force” turns off the targeting computer and totally nails it? Well that’s sort of what I tried semi-experimentally in the last 9 months or so running without the structure of having to put together a PowerClub entry. It’s not gone well.

Got told I looked like I was putting on weight yesterday, not for the first time. So I’m not even carrying it well. Time to knuckle down those 7s aren’t going to climb themselves.

STG get back into it and lose a stone
MTG a new 7
LTG a new 7C

M-
T-
W-
T-social hour at the works
F-
S-
S-an hour and a half at the works, managed a couple of irn brus

70.0kg - a solid 7-8kgs above ideal

spidermonkey09

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#6 Re: Global Dampening Club 518 10-16 Feb 2020
February 17, 2020, 09:36:00 am

seemingly being beholden to update to people I don't know on a weekly basis is helping


Its amazing how effective this is  :lol:

Nice one Ross, great you got back out. Don't overdo it!

M - max hangs. Achieved my early season goal of 50% bodyweight max hangs with good form which was a nice bonus. A rest day before the hangs seems to be helpful, along with non-sweaty conditions and simply doing them regularly...

T - Station. A shit session. Tweaked flexor in left arm and generally froze my tits off. Won't be going again for a while if I can avoid it.

W - grumpy resting

T - some weighted repeaters as didn't fancy max hangs with a tweaky arm, even if it was starting to feel better. Felt good on them which was nice. Also did some weighted pull ups as per James' idea last week. Did 5 sets with 10kg on so might be able to add a bit more. Seemed to dovetail quite nicely with repeaters.

F -  rest. Went and saw the Lighthouse; weird but good.

S - SC. A few problems and some time on the board. Did a few bits and pieces but nothing major.

S - planned to try and get out in the afternoon as per the forecast but was frustrated for hours. Eventually sacked it off about half 2 and went to the pub to watch the cricket. Thoroughly enjoyed it and then went back up to Burbage for the last hour of sunlight. Planned to go to Remergence but was predictably a lake under there. Ended up trying Small is Beautiful. Found the start move hard but was happy just pottering on it as the light was fading and it was very high without a spotter. Predictably started doing the hard move and bottled the top several times before committing to the rockover and taking a scary uncontrolled spill, fortunately onto the mats. Had another half hearted go but was drifting from brave into stupid so decided to leave it until I had more pads and a spot. Great problem though. Would probably have got more in if I wasn't watching the sport but hey ho.

More of the same next week. Surely there can't be three weekend storms in a row and I can get out properly next weekend.

nai

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#7 Re: Global Dampening Club 518 10-16 Feb 2020
February 17, 2020, 09:47:23 am
Yes, Murph, good to see you back.

STG:  Jerry's Roof on Wales (weather dependent) trip first week March
2020 Lime, Grit and AN Other Font 7Cs.

M - Bit achey from Sun, did a pretty thorough warm up intending to pop out for an hour. Loaded the car and was sat flicking through phone to get to music apps when I noticed the radar widget. Managed to unload and get the pads stashed back in the garage just in time.
Massage and stretch


T - Works Motherboard.  Fun session with 1-2 others on the board, just trying what they selected which was invariably too hard for me but just trying moves, doing some, getting shut down on others.  Got talking to a guy who mentioned the Cave was dry, stopped the moment I started to power down.

Core

W -
Minimum warm up (in case it was wet then I'd call it a rest day)
Tor.  Dry, struggled to get going....

Forgot my twatting knee pad so just worked Ben's KK into finish. Should/Could have linked it but forgot to move my feet.

Cave Problem:
Did the stand first move into heel a couple of times.  Managed the sit moves into the stand then fell on Stand move one.  Tiring so familiarised myself with the end moves for a while before calling it

Pretty happy with that, while I only warmed up on Monday I got to the stage of campusing so not a rest day, kind of fourth day on, certainly third intense day out of four. Fingers and shoulders were feeling it beforehand, must come back rested.

HI Core

Th rest

Fr - The morning sunrise made grit tempting but to great relief the cloud built as forecast and with humidity high I could head to the Tor with a a clear conscience.  And a knee pad.
Had felt strong warming up which raised expectations a bit.
CP wetter so concentrated on Ben's. Did it from start to right foot skidding off as I take the knee out to set for the Karete Kick then managed the link from RF on through KK to end so a tenuous done it in two halves but it's not in any way "on" until I can work something out for the transition from roof to sidewall.  Simon had turned up and done a warm up that make's 2t's look thorough before cracking on with the Ben's no-knees crux, don't know why I didn't think to try it at the time  but when I got home I realised some of his beta might help with that section. Keen to get back and try it.

S rest(less)

S bit of unstructured fingerboarding in the morning, Max hangs on 20mm edge.
Set out to create a new AnCap circuit with some burliness about it but ended up creating the Ben's crux into a burly traverse and THFML replica finish.  Mmight be a bit too hard for AnCap but it's certainly burly.
TRX - Ts, Ys & Reverse, Low row, archer row, pressup.
Tried some core exercises but everything shot already.

shark

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#8 Re: Global Dampening Club 518 10-16 Feb 2020
February 17, 2020, 10:15:07 am
11.5-8 160.3lbs average - no change

M. Nick called off mad Ramshaw mission. Rest day 2

T. Rest day 3

W. Noon. Foundry. Auto belay warm up on 2 routes. Campus and Oak throw. Off the pace. Wave - new set. Tried new level 3’s starting from left. Flashed first fluoro yellow, blobby second one took some effort and trickery. Third one had a tricky blob too. Linked in two halves. Paul came bouncing down fresh from lumping heavy loads at Patagonia fat camp. He’s worried Im getting strong and he’s getting weak. I may have heard this about a hundred times before. Getting increasingly concerned about my dodgy right shoulder
Evening. Tired. Forced myself to do deadhangs. First density hangs session. Half crimps and drags on ergo edge. Wiped after. Dinner then bed at 7.30pm!

T.

F. Noon. Tor. Nai there on Bens. Miserable weather - crag dripping. Felt unpsyched. Wet holds on THFML which scuppered my plan of doing multiple links up it - not that it seemed to put nai off. Did the link of holding crimp and pocket into THFML twice and almost a third. Only managed the throw to the crimp move once. Was wary about my sore shoulder but it held up fine. Sussed that I can get a decent shake for my right hand on the start of THFML. Not sure why this hadn’t occurred to me before as others do it on videos and it should mean I’m fresher for the long move above that I kept falling off. Would have liked to have done more long links as a PE session but wasn’t up to battling with wet holds on THFML
Evening. Home from Tor then out to drop Poppy off at flute lesson. Pint across road till she finished. Back and put dinner on. Lengthy fingerboard warm up. Dinner with two glasses of wine. Fingerboard recruitment pulls. G&Ts. Ben arrives with 6 others from UBMC to stay as they’re competing in BUCS comp at Works

S.

S. Evening. Decided against a PE session. Shoulders feeling better so risked assisted one armers and felt good. Density hangs session on ergo edge with much better scores than weds. A few power cleans to finish. All done whilst making Sunday roast

Ended up being an easy week and shoulders feel better for it. Did a fair bit stretching. Weight was starting to pile on and reined it back successfully at start of week mainly by not eating in the morning.
« Last Edit: February 17, 2020, 12:36:51 pm by shark »

Will Hunt

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#9 Re: Global Dampening Club 518 10-16 Feb 2020
February 17, 2020, 10:36:01 am
Very little this week.

Su - went out in the late morning to find some dry rock. Went to Rowantree Tor (on Unknown Stones) where there is a cool looking 6B/6B+ called Gladiator.
Did some nice techy aretes to start (heinous grading on these) and brushed and did a new thing at about 6C/+ which was fun. Then Gladiator and a few other things thereabouts.

Gladiator is here:
https://www.instagram.com/p/B8oojRFD1sg/

All in all a nice crag if you've a half day. There's some really decent stuff in the sub-6s. Best to go with a friend as some of the landings need a bit of padding. There's a couple of things left to do there too.

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Morning - naff week for me with a niggling cold but resting seems to have dispatched it completely. A novel situation for me as I usually just keep going, get properly ill and take a couple of weeks off... Needed an easy week anyway

M-S Rest
Su - Rowantree Tor w/ Will, first climb and first or second go pinged off a techy arete and ripped a hole in my tip... taped up and seemed alright, not really any crimps about anyway. Got up some cool stuff - Gladiator being the highlight, big pulls between good holds and the only thing I tried that seemed fair for the grade. Nice to get out on a day I wasn't expecting anything from for fresh air and free exfoliation treatment. Got home with a bit of daylight so went for a short hilly run with L. Felt all-body tired in the evening which felt good after a week of laziness.

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Welcome back Murph :)

M: Manc Depot in the morning before heading to work. Good ish session on the 50.

Tu: Mad Volume in Hull in the evening. Still a bit boxed from Monday but had a really good session. Good crowd and good fun. Spent most of my time on the board. Felt strong and better session enduranve than normal.

Thu: Drove out into the peak for some reason - wanted to climb but had migraine coming on. Rubcion covered with runoff. Went to the Tor - mostly wet apart from Bens. No interest in opening an account on that.

Fri: Got out for late morning - went to Baslow. Started work on Flatworld. That first move is hard! But not as hard as the first move on Flatworld LH (!!)... Was baltic in the wind... tried Lilliput which was more fun that it looked :D but skin was starting to hurt/split on the sharp edges so bailed. Went over the road to look at Jamie and his magic torch again... in good condition (unlike in my previous visits) and hit the sloper loads of times but didnt hold it. Tried the crimpy edge to the right but couldnt stick that. Need to get my RH over more to the left on the sloper, but I was tiring by that point (two left arm intensive problems!!).

Sa: weather. etc..

Su: Had a hunch Trowbarrow would be OK in the afternoon - and it was. Good warm up on red wall - then made progress of sorts on Pit Problem (see pit problem thread). Met one other climber (Owen - hello!) who was inspired (the wrong word - maybe notified) of Pit Problem from the beta thread - but then split a crease in my little finger and was done in by that point so left.

Alex-the-Alex

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Su - Rowantree Tor w/ Will, first climb and first or second go pinged off a techy arete and ripped a hole in my tip... taped up and seemed alright, not really any crimps about anyway. Got up some cool stuff - Gladiator being the highlight, big pulls between good holds and the only thing I tried that seemed fair for the grade.

Its a great feature! theres a good circuit between there and High Crag over the road. Did you try the Violet/Ultraviolet wall or were they above water? A couple of classic examples of Pauls ancient waddage. I could never touch them...

Will Hunt

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Su - Rowantree Tor w/ Will, first climb and first or second go pinged off a techy arete and ripped a hole in my tip... taped up and seemed alright, not really any crimps about anyway. Got up some cool stuff - Gladiator being the highlight, big pulls between good holds and the only thing I tried that seemed fair for the grade.

Its a great feature! theres a good circuit between there and High Crag over the road. Did you try the Violet/Ultraviolet wall or were they above water? A couple of classic examples of Pauls ancient waddage. I could never touch them...

We cast an eye at them. Part of the reason for picking the crag was to see what the sitter to Red Kite was like (mentioned as a project on US). As it happened, conditions conspired against us trying them. The wind on the lower edge was present but not too disruptive but by the Tor it was ferocious so you had to be quite psyched to pull on. Those problems look hard but not actually that good... Also, the rock on that back wall felt kind of slick and glassy - kind of like it was condensing slightly. Very odd.
I might go back on a spring evening and try and tick stuff off as the stuff there is clearly decent. The sitter to Red Kite would probably go but it's be absolutely rancid mantelling on fuck all (mind you, there's a generous undercut in the roof so maybe not that much harder than the stand).
I actually thought that the two most obvious gaps on the crag were ones that weren't mentioned in the guide. The new thing I did had some brushed holds on it but not the ones you ended up using. Good quality climbing on that. The other really obvious gap is to do Frozone but to stay on the RHS and top out into blankness. Looks tough and the landing needs a few pads and a spotter.

Coops_13

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Morning chaps I’m coming back in.
yes Murph! Welcome back  :strongbench:

galpinos

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Su: Had a hunch Trowbarrow would be OK in the afternoon - and it was. Good warm up on red wall - then made progress of sorts on Pit Problem (see pit problem thread). Met one other climber (Owen - hello!) who was inspired (the wrong word - maybe notified) of Pit Problem from the beta thread - but then split a crease in my little finger and was done in by that point so left.

No training benefits from your RockTots session?

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Weight 10st6lb

M: Nothing. 12 hour work day catching up with things.

T: Routes at KI. A decent route session and my neck issue seemed to have eased considerably. After a warm up I onsighted a 7c pretty steadily which is quite good for me indoors. After that my lack of session fitness began to show and I had an instant drop-off in performance. I tried two further 7cs and despite feeling good on the moves I had no beans to link them. The route setting was fantastic though. It has always been good there but now it seems even better! Finished with 2 sets of doubles at 7a.

W: Long run incorporating the Innsbruck trail marathon race route I did last year (55km + 1700m vert). After some nav issues, slow pacing and stopping to eat a pastry and drink a coke I was 90 minutes slower on the marathon part. Further to this, while lost in thought on a long steep downhill on a forestry road, I tripped and suddenly found myself flying through the air. The force with which my cheek bone hit the ground left me fearing the worse. I had blurred vision and an intense headache and it took me a while to stand up. Eventually I realised that my face was intact and that there wasn't too much blood but that my neck really hurt. Apparently pile driving the ground with your face is also bad for your neck and my neck issue was worse than before. It is also surprising how strong bones are as I can't believe my cheek bone survived such an impact with only superficial damage!     

T: Nothing. Felt like I had been in a car crash and couldn't move my neck.

F: Nothing. PM: Drove to Arco.

S: Checked out the first hill in the ultra we are doing in April. A brutal steep run up to 1400m from Lake Garda from the very start. Linked onto the return loop so in the end we recce'd pretty much a quarter of the race in terms of height gain and distance (24km 1516m). A fantastic tour with amazing weather and scenery over Lake Garda and the surrounding mountains.

S: Went climbing at Piste dei Dinosauri near Trento. A nice crag hidden around the corner of some huge limestone bowl with an eerie lunar landscape. I looked longingly at the main sector with compact tufas and flowstone with grades 8b to 8c but knew it wasn't worth having a look. Did a few routes up to 7c. All were really good on nice rock and interesting moves. The rock was a little dusty in places due to lack of traffic (the walk in is long 30 minutes) by Arco standards. I still lacked fitness but at least my neck didn't cause any issues. I also felt very fatigued and even just walking around felt difficult and like I was operating at altitude. I think all the running and Belgian beers and wine the night before had caught up with me. Finished by looking at some dinosaur footprints which was cool even though they weren't very distinct in the sector we looked at.

An ok week despite the face plant which in the end I feel lucky that it wasn't any worse. Both route sessions were promising and my neck issue seems to be finally abating despite the setback. I just need to do more routes more consistently to get some stamina back which is what I keep saying every week! It was nice to get down to Italy for the weekend which felt like a holiday, leaving winter behind with sunny skies, orange trees, palms and dusty dry trails and rock!

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Su - Rowantree Tor w/ Will, first climb and first or second go pinged off a techy arete and ripped a hole in my tip... taped up and seemed alright, not really any crimps about anyway. Got up some cool stuff - Gladiator being the highlight, big pulls between good holds and the only thing I tried that seemed fair for the grade.

Its a great feature! theres a good circuit between there and High Crag over the road. Did you try the Violet/Ultraviolet wall or were they above water? A couple of classic examples of Pauls ancient waddage. I could never touch them...

Yeah keen to look at High crag another day and some other stuff on the moor. As Will said - absolutely baltic wind and my skin wasn't in great nick so wasn't super psyched for friction-dependant stuff.

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Weight was starting to pile on and reined it back successfully at start of week mainly by not eating in the morning.
Occasionally don’t eat till midday.
Jesus fucking Christ.  :wall:

tomtom

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Su: Had a hunch Trowbarrow would be OK in the afternoon - and it was. Good warm up on red wall - then made progress of sorts on Pit Problem (see pit problem thread). Met one other climber (Owen - hello!) who was inspired (the wrong word - maybe notified) of Pit Problem from the beta thread - but then split a crease in my little finger and was done in by that point so left.

No training benefits from your RockTots session?

It was an improvement from my last visit! :D

Murph

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Thanks guys it’s good to be back. This time I mean it   :boxing:

jwi

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T: Nothing. Felt like I had been in a car crash and couldn't move my neck.
...


take care!

eastside

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My first real post! Sorry its a bit long

Quick intro: I'm 41, 6'2", 180# - would like to be 170-175# eventually. I'm pathetically weak but I've been climbing a long time, sent many v6-v7 but plateau'd around v7 for a long time. Did one v8 and a couple v9. Then got weaker over the last couple years, stuck at v6 right now. Started training again seriously a couple weeks ago. I live in Bishop and I have a great home gym (see below) so I have no excuse. Will be in Font for three weeks March 11-April 1.

The home wall:



From left to right: 45, transition, 60, 25, 35 (hard to see behind the break), transition, 60-15-60 break, out of sight to the right is a 15 degree traverse wall. In the back the 60, 25, 35 all lead to the 8x8 roof which leads to the headwall. Finish holds are all up on the high ceiling. Also not pictured are the four hangboards (nicros, bm1, bm2, trango) and two detachable campus boards that mount on the wall opposite the headwall. Also have squat rack with barbell and 500# plates, dumbells with 200# plates, trx, paralettes, GHD, pull up bars, rings, bands, and various other toys and torture devices. So no excuses

Grades are sandbagged by tradition, id say by one v grade on average. Plenty of opportunity to set steep power problems. Very hard to set thin stuff that isn't v-double digits as its so steep. Mostly on the break wall we can make a few thin moves but even those always sit start on the steep undercut. But it is what it is, it took me six weeks to build and i'm not changing the angles now LOL.

Will be resetting in April which is a daunting task, takes about a month but this set has been up almost two years so its time for a clean slate

STG: At least one 7A at Font in March
MTG: Get back to sending v7's regularly.
LTG: Midnight Lightning

M: Row 5 min, mobility,
boulders v0, 0, 0+, 0, 1, 2, 2, 2, 3.
Repeaters 7s/3s x3 sets x 5 reps on
2/3 pad half crimp (the lower crimp on the beastmaker 1),
35 degree sloper (beastmaker),
wide pinch (trango).
Integrated strength between sets with
bent rows 3x8@65#,
IsYsTs 3x8ea@0#,
Hanging knee raise 3x8

Tu: Bench press 3 sets 5 reps at 105,
overhead press 5x5 at 45, dips 3x3

W: Warmed up for a limit session but ran low on time due to work, called it off after the warmup.
Row 5 min,
mobility,
v0, v0, v1, v1, v1, v2, v2, v2, v3. quit

Th: Limit Bouldering:
row 5 min,
mobility,
v0, v0, v0, v0, v0, v1, v1, v1, v2, v1, v2, v2, v2, v3
then 3 attempts each v4, v4, v4,
then 5 attempts each v5, v5

F: Repeaters again:
row,
mobility,
warm up boulders,
then repeaters on half crimp, slope, pinch
with integrated strength bent rows 3x8@67.5, IsYsTs, hanging knee raise

Sa: Deadlift 2x5@125#,
front squat 3x5@55#

Su: was going to rest but going through some shit and wanted emotional release of climbing so went back and rowed 5 min (1055m!)  did v0's on a three minute timer until I felt better/skin was trashed from jug rash. Did 13 of them

Pretty tired after all that and thin skinned. probably have to just lift today, boulder again Tu

Bradders

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I live in Bishop and I have a great home gym (see below) so I have no excuse. Will be in Font for three weeks March 11-April 1.

The home wall:



 :jaw:

Welcome.

Bradders

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M - lunch gym, yoga & stretching

T - lunch gym, yoga & stretching. Depot Pudsey in evening. Utter shambles. Got there really late (for me). Right bicep / elbow hurt a bit and I thus felt very limited on everything not wanting to tweak further. Had a coffee beforehand and hadn't eaten anything since lunch so felt really shaky. Did probably the two easiest yellows then went on the 50 and could only do one of my normal warm ups 3rd go. Dabbled on a few other things but it wasn't happening so sacked it.

W - Depot Pudsey. Miles better. There at a normal time appropriately fed and watered. Went round the yellow circuit. Tried all but about 6 of them (not including the 2 I'd done on Tuesday) and did 5, including 2 flashes. Pleased with one of those as had seen others struggling. Close on a few others. Bicep / elbow better with a tube-grip thing on but still a bit painful. Felt worked after.

T - have a short term goal to maintain finger strength/recruitment, so did a benchmarking fingerboard session. Easy doing 10s +30kg on a 19mm edge but could only do 5s +35kg. Previous max +40kg for 10s (just!) back in October and only had one or two sessions since, so unsurprisingly a bit off pace. Also tried +30kg on the BM2k low outer edges and couldn't even pull on but did 3x 10s +25kg so not far off, just recruitment down I think. Elbow okay, not really a limiting factor. Bodyweight 68kg.

F - lunch gym, elbow rehab including dumbbell negatives and lock offs

S - Depot Pudsey. 50 board session. After a couple of warm ups decided to experiment with ankle weights. Put 1kg on each ankle and tried 5 warm up and advanced warm up sort of level problems, including some longer ones, doing 4 though not all first time. Then dropped the crux of a long harder prob. Feeling good, decided to ditch the weights and try something harder and a friend was trying a problem which I'd finally managed in December after a year of trying; did it first go. Then did another one which had similarly been a long term proj until recently, also first go! Tried another hard one that I've not done and got close, then did a couple of slightly easier things before finishing failing on warm ups with the weights back on. Did some haphazard antagonist stuff before leaving. Elbow felt fine throughout; did some rehab stuff as well morning and evening.

S - nothing

Rather varied week. Disappointed not to get out to finish off Exorcist Ear due to work and weather but a strong feeling finish with one of my better board sessions. Having a few pre-scheduled days off now.

 

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