[User deactivated.]

My shoe purchasing behavior to date has largely been as follows:

1. Purchase whatever is on sale or in my size at the depot.
2. Wear it for 6 months until it has a hole in the toe.
3. Go back to step 1.

It has recently occurred to me that a larger initial outlay for multiple pairs (that are better suited to specific tasks) may not cost any more in the long run.

I would like some opinions, anecdotes or whatever on shoes you prefer for specific tasks, e.g. "I use shoe A for smeary aretes because it has property X but I use shoe B for roofs because it has property Y" or even "I prefer shoe A because I weigh X kg and climb in the style of Y".

Or is this all nonsense and it doesn't even matter in the lowly mid font 7's???

As I'm entirely focused on grit bouldering right now I'm thinking something downturned and stiffer for steep stuff and something flatter and softer for less steep stuff but this may be completely wrong as I haven't done any experimenting yet.

[remus]

Welcome to the dark side.

Personally I've got a few models (Instinct VS and VSR) that work well for me and although I'll try and branch out fairly frequently I find myself coming back to the old faithfuls. Having said that, I've been getting on pretty well with a pair of Unparallel Vims. They're a nice compliment to the Instinct VS as they're a bit softer and way better for toe hooking (plus you feel like Dave Graham sporting a pair of V10s back in the day).

Another handy trick is to have 2-3 pairs of the faithfuls on the go at any one time. That way you have a knackered old pair for chumming around in, a primo pair for smashing in projects and a pair that are getting broken in ready to replace the primo pair. As you say this doesn't actually cost anything extra in the long run (assuming you wear all your shoes out eventually).

[Paul B]

The first time I ever wore a pair of down turned shoes (lace up Dragons) I went straight on a board problem that usually, my feet would cut on every move. They stayed on for every move. So yes, there's a good reason to have a few pairs.

Scarpa Instinct VSR are now my go to, do everything shoe. They fit me very well straight out of the box. I'm relatively light and the XS edge on the VS just feels terrible, especially in the cold.

My current Sportivas (Skwama Women's?) are better for bouldering and they're holding that toe scoop still.

I've loved 5.10 Mocs for really holdless stuff. People with golden feet and significantly more talent then I don't seem to need to something so soft.

Whites (V2) are unsurpassable IMO on the less steep parts of British limestone. I liked them on slate too but others have mentioned really well broken in Velcros.

Basically, you're going to end up with a long list of people's personal shoe preferences.

[moose]

As a shoe junkie I'll contribute to the anecdotal evidence - though hopefully make a few general points that might be useful.

Indoors - I like a soft slipper, especially for board climbing - currently Sportiva Pythons

My go-to, do everything shoes for sport climbing tend to be aggressive (pointy and curved) and fairly stiff - long term favourites are Sportiva Miura VSs, current choice is a pair of Sportiva Katakis (I also liked the pair of Scarpa Instinct VS I once had).  I always like a resoled pair in this category in reserve - as I've had problems with shoes completely failing when I'm close to doing a project, and not having enough time for a new pair to break-in before the season ends - resoles are already broken-in.... marginal gains

For steep limestone bouldering, I like shoes that are aggressive but a bit softer than my route climbing shoes - currently an old pair of Dragons that refuse to die. 

Grit bouldering and trad (back when I did any) - I used to favour shoes with a pretty flat, neutral shape, and not too stiff  - Anasazi VCS and Verdes were favourites when I did a lot of this.  Although, during my recent return to grit bouldering, I've been happy using my Katakis (although, I admit I have not climbed many slabs).

I also have a few old pairs of "irregular" shoes, mainly pairs that are almost worn-out but still seem too useful to throw away - and infrequently find use in particular situations - old pairs of Sportiva Futura and Genius whose "no-edge" seems to suit certain moves, a very small pair of Dragons that are almost unbearable but have a very narrow heel that is occassionally required.

I always keep an eye out for shoes on special offer that fit any of the roles in my rotation - got pairs of unworn Miura VSs and Scarpa Magos ready for routes, and Testorossas and Solutions for bouldering and / or routes - all purchased whilst cheap during a prolonged mood of Brexit anxiety (also witness my cupboards of cans of soup and jars of peanut butter!).

[Bradders]

I never go bouldering without 2-3 pairs or more. Pretty essential part of the tactical game in my opinion. Also very rarely buy new shoes as it takes so long to wear them out; maybe a pair or two a year these days?

downturned and stiffer for steep stuff and something flatter and softer for less steep stuff

Wrong way round, usually... there will be some exceptions but typically you want something softer for steep stuff so you can really dig into the foothold and get lots of rubber on. Good rule of thumb is the less weight you have on your feet the softer you can go.

Then for more vertical grit where you might need to stand on a tiny pebble you'll want something stiffer, although getting a balance between stiffness for pebbles/tiny edges and softness for smearing is tough. There's a reason everyone used Anasazis for ages. Personally I favour either Scarpa Chimera or 5.10 Pinks atm.

Although like Paul, my go-to do anything is the Scarpa Instinct VSR.

[Paul B]

I'm not sure I agree regarding stiffness and steepness, 5.10 in particular made shoes that pushed this significantly and IMO they weren't good for much beyond indoor stuff. Various of their sponsored climbers seemed to prefer the stiffer Hiangles than the softer offerings available at the time.
 

[Fiend]

Current shoes:

Outdoor:
Anasazi vcs 6 - newish, still stiff, good for small edges
Anasazi vcs 6 - old, soft, good for smears but toes nearly through
Anasazi vcs 6 - resoled - not as precise due to resole but perfect stiffness/softness, good for smears
Dragons 6 - medium broken in, good for nubbins and pockets
Dragons 6 - old, soft, just a back-up pair.

Indoors:
Anasazi vcs 6.5 - resoled and reranded, starting to peel and nearly dead
Anasazi vcs 6 - resoled, decent toe but heel peeling off
Anasazi vcs 6.5 - resoled and reranded, clunky but in decent condition.

I buy lots as needed (esp if discounted) use the best for more challenging stuff, then shoes move down the food chain and eventually get resoled and used for warm-up shoes or indoors.

[shark]

Rob Barker is climbing’s answer to Imelda Marcos. There is never a problem that is too hard - you just need to find the right shoe. Counter intuitively this was dragons on the Nadser 

[36chambers]

Anasazis for most stuff because they're comfy.

Instincts vs/r for steeper, harder stuff.

Dragos as a wildcard when all else fails (toe hook on Secret Seventh, toe cam on Sideliner). I only take them to the crag if I think it's necessary.

I've found the odd slab that is much easier in Instincts and the certain heel hooks that require an anasazi heel. So it's definitely worth having options at the crag.

[battery]

Interesting to see lots of people getting shoes resoled, what are the advatages/disadvantages? Where do folk get them done?

[Fiend]

The advantages are that it costs £40 instead of £110 for a new pair, and despite being a bit clunky they're perfectly fine for indoors, warming up, easier problems, problems with massive footholds, etc etc. The disadvantages are...are...ummm....


Shark, dragons are great on some slabs, you get a lot of toe power and precision, they can soften up nicely and are not so aggressive to prevent getting useful angles. I've found them good on some slate stuff. The main problem I find is they don't give enough support for trad so my feet get knackered.

[kelvin]

Interesting to see lots of people getting shoes resoled, what are the advatages/disadvantages? Where do folk get them done?

Big savings - I've had shoes resoled by Gomo2 in Cornudella for maybe 5 years now. €28 for my last pair and they come back better than new, certainly on my instinct slippers, which are on their fifth resole. My anasazi velcros too.
I had Torquil do a few pairs when he started but they were never like new and after that initial resole they went in the bin.

[kelvin]

and despite being a bit clunky

That's why I stopped getting them resoled in UK, I never had a pair back that didn't feel different.

There's a Brazilian fella near Arboli who I've never used but having seen his work and belayed friends wearing them on hard Siurana climbs, well, there's no excuse for resoled shoes feeling clumpy.

[mrjonathanr]

Heinz Mariacher talks about designing his shoes so they can be resoled multiple times (6.10). Here in conversation with Magnus Midtbo:

[T_B]

Interesting to see lots of people getting shoes resoled, what are the advatages/disadvantages? Where do folk get them done?

I must have had half a dozen pairs of Instinct VSs re-soled by Feet First in Sheffield. Tbh I can't tell any difference between them and a broken in pair of new shoes [insert joke here about Scarpas being clunky]. Given I work 'in the outdoor trade' so can buy Scarpa etc at trade prices, I still think it's better value to spend £40.

[mrjonathanr]

Interesting point Heinz makes at 6.14 that he resoles his shoes even though he gets them for free.

I resole my shoes 4,5 times ...because once the shoe takes the shape of my foot I really love it

[nai]

After years of thinking it wasn't worth it I had a pair of Katanas done at Feet First and it was a revelation, a broken in pair with a good sole, felt better than having a new pair. And now I think about it they're still going, the resole has lasted longer than the original.

[cheque]

The golden rule for getting shoes resoled is get them done as early as possible so they don't need the rands doing. I get mine done as soon as there's any of the rand rubber showing through where the sole rubber used to be, earlier than even the first picture here.

If they only need to do the sole they come back basically like new but already broken-in  if they have to be reranded as well you get a pair of clunkers that are only good for warming-up indoors.

Basically, you're going to end up with a long list of people's personal shoe preferences. the exact current condition of the two types of shoes Fiend wears.

[steveri]

Used to resole back in the day and fairly recent returning climber. Just had a pair from Cheshire Shoe Repairs (local). I was sceptical of them turning slightly downturned shoes into flatter shoes but impressed in first few wears. They regained the 'as new' shape and toe rands blend really well - thought they might feel 'stuck on' but they're nicely done and don't seem any less sensitive. No discernible change in fit, ready broken in of course. Plus green too.

[Fiend]

Cheshire turned mine into clunkers last time 

Based on above posts I'm going to try Feet First. I've also found I've got a 10th pair of shoes I forgot about....

[Fultonius]

I resole with the guy in Greece, some of my shoes have come back better than new!

I have a pretty large selection, but my go to shows are:

• Instinct VS for sport and bouldering (+1 resoled)
• TC Pro for Low Grade big mountain (sized too big for dawn wall)
• Chimera for smeara
• Instinct Slipper for indoors (resoled)
• Boostics for indoors (resoled) - used to be my go to trad shoe, but now prefer
• Maestros (well, for granite big wall they seemed good, maybe not great at smearing)

The best trick is to buy your prime shoes when you see them relative cheap (or barely used 2nd hand). Resole the early somewhere good. Never buy full price.

[crzylgs]

Have never had a pair of shoes resoled but I was just about to send a pair of shoes to Torquil at Llanberis Resoles. However,  going from this thread I might try Feet First instead as they seem to be getting good reviews.

Just checking I've got the correct place?

https://www.resoles.co.uk/climbing-shoe-repairs/climbing-shoe-repairs.html

[moose]

I think resoling is a bit of a YMMV exercise with a lot of variance / random bad results.  I've had multiple pairs of Sportiva VSs resoled by Torquil at Llanberis and have been very pleased with all of them.  All felt like they were in that all-too-brief sweet spot when shoes are broken-in enough to be decent at smearing but still have a decent edge.  They were softer than when new - but I suspect that's because the midsole gets irrepairably degraded by use.  He's even done a good job on my pairs of no-edge shoes - Futura and Genius.  I have only had one pair resoled by Feet First and they came back like clogs.

[Fiend]

FFS I just sent some off to FF. Still it does sound like a bit of luck of the draw so whatever. I've managed to do some decent smeary grit bloques in the resoled clogs that still fit well and have broken in perfectly (but busted out the dragons and nearly new VCSs for some more precise things).

[cheque]

Feet First are good in my experience.

[crzylgs]

Hmm... Could I send one shoe to Llanberis and the other one to Feet First?

[benpritch]

Just to say I think Llanberis resoles are great. The majority of my climbing is done in resoled Scarpa VS (unless i spot a new pair on ebay) and I never feel like they are slowing me down.

[Fiend]

P.S. cheque you cheeky bugger I was giving opinions and anecdotes as requested just in a very dull way.

[erm, sam]

I usually get shoes resoled at Llanberis Resoles. I have had them done at other places over the years but I keep going back to Torquil. Like Nai says, it is pretty much better than getting a new pair. Like getting a new pair you don't have to break in.

I only tend to resole once per pair as they are usually too shagged by the time the resole wears out.
I have 3 pairs of my preffered shoe on the go at the moment. They are each a half size different to the other and actually i find it works really well. I mostly climb in the bigger two pairs with the small one for particularly tiny foot holds.

Miura VS by the way.

[lagerstarfish]

may have been mentioned

https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,11176.0.html

[battery]

Just got my five Tens resoled at Cheshire Shoe Repairs including some rubber over the toes. Upon first try indoors last night I'm really impressed. Slightly different shape but nothing detrimental. They feel like new shoes just not quite so painful!