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Wanted: Istria/Paklenica advice and guides (Read 2720 times)

bigironhorse

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Wanted: Istria/Paklenica advice and guides
February 12, 2020, 08:13:42 am
Hi all,

I am thinking of going to Croatia just after Easter. We're after some single pitch sport climbing, which must have plenty at 5-6a+, preferably at a crag that also has good 7's. We're also keen for some big easy multipitches, preferably 200-400m and graded very easy to 6a.

What is the climate like in these areas in April? I don't want to be freezing my nads off and would prefer a bit too hot than too cold.

Finally, if anyone has any relevant guides they would like to sell me that would be very useful.

Thanks.

bigironhorse

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PS: Any alternative venue suggestions within ~6 hours drive of Vienna would be appreciated.

SA Chris

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What is the climate like in these areas in April? I don't want to be freezing my nads off and would prefer a bit too hot than too cold.


You'll be lost in the cold rain. Freezing breath on the windowpane.

tomtom

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PS: Any alternative venue suggestions within ~6 hours drive of Vienna would be appreciated.

Anywhere in Slovenia? close enough to Vienna and the country is pretty much all limestone so be surprised if there wasnt any there!! Also some around Trieste..

bigironhorse

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PS: Any alternative venue suggestions within ~6 hours drive of Vienna would be appreciated.

Anywhere in Slovenia? close enough to Vienna and the country is pretty much all limestone so be surprised if there wasnt any there!! Also some around Trieste..

Yes definitely, Istria covers parts of Italy, Slovenia and Croatia. Osp seems to have some easy multipitch routes.

sheavi

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Can't predict the weather but Paklenica has all the climbing requirements you're after. 

tomtom

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BTW - have you still got a car for sale in Hull - may have someone interested... long shot etc...

bigironhorse

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BTW - have you still got a car for sale in Hull - may have someone interested... long shot etc...

Unfortunately not, sorry!

AlistairB

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Have been at Easter twice with mixed ability (Uni) groups, everyone had a good time. Had a few rainy days but not more than rest days, can also remember it being very warm for at least a few days. The gorge and surroundings are very beautiful and food / beers were very cheap (n.b. this was 7 years ago!)

One thing to note is that the bolting on the multipitches can be quite sparse in places, particularly the easier pitches on the long Anica Kuk routes. A small trad rack (I remember lots of natural threads) is probably worth packing. I also remember the cruxes often being quite stern for the grade but at least they were well bolted.

From what I remember the best 7s were at a crag of orange limestone on the hill on the left on the way into the gorge. This isn't the same place as the easier single pitch but isn't too far out of the way.

Sadly I don't have the guide to lend but I'd certainly recommend Paklenica for what you're after.

Fultonius

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Yeah, Paklenica is good. Not been that time of year, but have been twice in October. Some of the rock is very sharp, and, as mentioned, the routes can be run-out up on Anica Kuk, but it's really worth heading up there for a real experience of the place.

Could post you the guide. There's a newer version than ours with photos topos instead of sketched ones, but the content is basically the same.

remus

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I spent a couple of days in Paklenica in early june, it was hot but fine in the shade. Multi-pitch on Anica Kuk worked well. I recall seeing people getting up early for climbing in the gorge itself, where it gets sunny earlier in the day.

 

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