UKBouldering.com

Tor be or not Tor be Club 517 3rd - 9th February, 2020 (Read 10182 times)

SA Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 29249
  • Karma: +631/-11
    • http://groups.msn.com/ChrisClix
I was looking at this the other day as I’ll be “out west” myself June/ July- the entire state of Colorado is above 1000m and the humidity seems to be rarely over 50%. Should be alright.

Places like Eldo will be like an oven, as will a lot of the lower lying sport crags. Stuff facing every direction and at also high, if you choose wisely you'll only have one lifetime worth of stuff to climb.

James Malloch

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1690
  • Karma: +63/-1
Mon - Awesome Walls, Sheffield. 5 autobelay to warm up / get pumped. Few Easy routes on main wall and some more auto belay up to 7b. Decided to try out the Kilterboard for the rest of the session and spent a few hours on that. What a great board! Did a whole bunch of things up to 7A - proper try-hard session for me.

Weds - City Bloc, Leeds. Felt really good warming up doing a bunch of Greys & Yellows (they seem very soft or I’ve got noticeably better). Did some 1-arm hang benchmarking on bottom BM 2000 rung. Started at -12.5kg (my old lattice test score) and got down to 8.5kg assistance for a 5 second hang on both arms. RH was noticeably more stable (Felt pretty easy whereas LH was failing on 5s) but think I was a bit tired as then went on to fail on 7.5kg assistance on it. 

Finished off with some stretching and weighted pull ups. 5 x 20kg, 4 (+1 after little rest) x 20kg, 3 (+1) x 20kg.

My thoughts for weighted pull ups were to try and get to a set of 5 x 5 @ 20kg which I think would be doable if I kept it up for a month. Though not sure the best way to go about it. Any advice on these would be welcomed!

Sunday - day out in Storm Ciara flow-gauging in the Yorkshire Dales. Few touch and go moments thinking we would write the car off driving through standing (well, flowing really) water but made it there and got the measurements we needed. The drive took nearly 3x as long as normal due to the many diversions we had to navigate so ended up missing the highest flows. Proper knackering day out. Cardio ticked for the week... Kilnsey looked pretty wet on the drive home.

spidermonkey09

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2830
  • Karma: +159/-4
Proper knackering day out. Cardio ticked for the week... Kilnsey looked pretty wet on the drive home.

Presumably a high clearance car! Forecast for Malham on Sunday was 50mm of rain blowing directly into the cove at 50mph  :o

On the pullups, I haven't done any of these but would have thought its good to train by completing the set even if you reduce weight to do so. eg. do the first 3 with 20kg and 4th and 5th set with 10kg on to get used to it and gradually increase the weight as you get stronger?

James Malloch

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1690
  • Karma: +63/-1
Proper knackering day out. Cardio ticked for the week... Kilnsey looked pretty wet on the drive home.

Presumably a high clearance car! Forecast for Malham on Sunday was 50mm of rain blowing directly into the cove at 50mph  :o

On the pullups, I haven't done any of these but would have thought its good to train by completing the set even if you reduce weight to do so. eg. do the first 3 with 20kg and 4th and 5th set with 10kg on to get used to it and gradually increase the weight as you get stronger?

Citroen Berlingo so quite a high air intake. We went past c.5pm so levels had started receding. A BMW was stuck/written off there which spooked us a little. But a VW golf got through so we risked it. THe broken down car caused the road to narrow so we created a HUGE wave in front of us (easily above bonnet) as the water was forced into a narrow gap. At that point it was a case of just not stopping  :-\

Re the pull ups, that’s probably a good idea. Either that or dropping the weight & increasing once a full 5x5 set is complete, perhaps.

JohnM

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 911
  • Karma: +71/-0
Weight 10st5lb-6lb

M: Bouldering indoors up to V6. 5 x pulley assisted one arm hangs on Beastmaker central slot with 6kg. 5 x 2 arm hangs on lower outside edges + 20kg. Weighted pull ups 3 x 3 15kg, 3 x 5 10kg, 3 x 8 5kg. Failed in last 2 sets. Not a bad session. Elbow/bicep tendon feeling better but still have an issue in my trap and up the right side of my neck.

T: Warm up bouldering up to V5. Then up to the training room to do 4 x 4s on an 11 move boulder I had devised in a previous session. However, my trap and neck were feeling terrible and I could barely climb the boulder once comfortably so I gave up. Tried to salvage the session with some foot on campusing (2-2.5 minutes on and 5 minutes off) but my skin was too sore to try hard. Abandoned the session in a bad mood. My neck/trap has been bad for over 3 weeks now and is really debilitating. PM - went to see Monster Magnet in Munich. Drove home in horrendous conditions and then got stuck behind the snowplough until 1am.

W: 10km run as fast as I could go. I still can't get close to under 40 minutes. Maybe with less snow and ice on the ground.

T: AM - Minute on/off hill sprints x 12 (2 sets). PM - 5 x 5 minute/0.5km hill runs + a trail run up to a hut at 1018m (14km + 1057m).

F: Running and then fast hiking in the snow up to a hut at 1500m (12km + 950m).

S: Climbing at Starkenbach for the first time. The rock quality didn't look great but produced good steep lines through wildly overhanging terrain. There was a lot of snow melt coming through the rock. Warmed up on a traddy 5c, then a 7a+ (fell in the easy top slab as it was covered in grime and water) then tried an awesome 7c. Really fun climbing on mainly huge jugs but really overhanging. Fell on the only part that wasn't a jug as it was covered in wet slimey chalk. Tried again but it had got even wetter and my fitness levels are poor so I was too pumped to overcompensate. Finished on a quality 7a with amazing moves.

S: Long 6 hour run (39km + 2150m).

Not a bad week overall. My neck and trap had eased towards the end of the week and I was moving well during the outdoor climbing session. I just have no stamina after missing the best part of 2 months not being able to train properly. The running is still going great and my fatigue threshold has increased massively. After 39km on Sunday I could have just kept going but i'd arranged to go the cinema. Last year I would have been sore for a couple of days afterwards as well but on Monday I felt fine. Now I just need to get my climbing stamina up to the same level!

eastside

Offline
  • *
  • regular
  • Posts: 48
  • Karma: +4/-0
Hello gentlemen and ladies,

May I join the club on the next round?

I've recently gotten back into systematic training and would love to track via the power club. Thank you,

-Tavis
« Last Edit: February 13, 2020, 09:49:46 pm by eastside »

shark

Online
  • *****
  • Administrator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 8715
  • Karma: +626/-17
  • insect overlord #1
Join now if you like

eastside

Offline
  • *
  • regular
  • Posts: 48
  • Karma: +4/-0
Thanks! I didn't record enough from last week to make it worthwhile, but this week I am - thus, I'll post up next week.

Thanks again

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal