[Bradders]

M - went to Caley hoping Ben's would be dry. It wasn't. Decided to go to Woodhouse Scar as a south facing but sheltered option in the high winds, forgetting that it takes an hour to get there from Caley. Couple of hours of light left by the time I got there. After a poor warm up I got stuck in on Ian's Roof. I lived less than 10mins from Woodhouse for nearly two years, and had about 6 sessions on Ian's in that time but never finished it off. Bit of a nemesis! Two years since I last tried it and so I arrogantly hoped I'd have improved a bit. Struggled with the moves at first, and as the smell of weed wafted towards me from the locals I remembered why I gave up before. Persisted though as conditions were perfect, and re-did all the moves quickly, then some good links, then managed to do it 2nd time I made it through the first hard move from the start. Really surprised myself and very pleased; feels like good evidence of progression and nice to come away from the Cliff and feel like the "training" I've done there is working.

T - rest

W - went to Caley hoping Ben's would be dry. It wasn't. A friend turned up and suggested going to try Gritty Shaker at St Ives. What a line! Sadly it was damp, still and warm. Had a few goes anyway and made it through the crux once, but couldn't sort feet out. Sacked it quickly; psyched for it but couldn't be arsed with such poor conditions. Midges out...

T - Caley. Ben's. Wet. Almscliff. Went to finish off Exorcist Ear, but it was far too hot in the sun. No wind. Rock warm to touch. Got warmed up anyway and then a friend popped up announcing a pad party on the Virgin boulder. Too good an opportunity to pass up, as I've wanted to do some of the highballs for ages. Did The Lady, The Fox and Gypus which were all very fun indeed. Forgive me whilst I go a bit Will Hunt now; The Lady is more like 6B+ as a highball boulder. Maybe marginally harder than Flying Arete but quite a bit easier than the other two. Others spot on though, and better problems as well I think. Went back up to Exorcist as the sun set and temperature dropped, although rock still very warm. Didn't work any moves just had 3 goes from the start; first go, as I was matched on the big flat crimp setting up for the move to the ear (crux and last hard move) some trad bumblies on Demon Wall dropped a rope down from the top, almost hitting me! Went for the move and got fingertips on the ear but didn't stick it. Second go I hit the ear again, a little better this time, but still not quite high enough to hold it. Third go heel popped setting up for that move. Best I've done on it really but frustrating too. Had to rush attempts as losing light which didn't help, and I suppose getting pumped on jugs earlier didn't either. Finished off squeezing in a first go almost-in-the-dark re-ascent of Syrett's Roof.

F - work, 20 mins stretching / yoga at lunch

S - drove to South Wales visiting family

S - drove home from Wales through the storm. Not actually that bad really. Stopped off at Manchester Depot for an hour and a half. Not been since opening weekend. After warm up flashed half a dozen purples, then a yellow 2nd go. Then onto the big Hardwood / Beastmaker board; not impressed to be honest. The steepness and hold types mean all the set problems mainly involve jumping to jugs. Feels like the sort of board tailored to competition climbers, sure it does have plenty of benefits but maybe not so much crossover to UK bouldering? I much prefer a less steep board with rattier holds...not sure why. Plus being in the main wall it was pretty warm and felt a bit like being in a goldfish bowl. Anyway, did a few of the high 6s and low 7s from the computer. Unfortunately came away feeling a minor bit of bicep pain in my right so need to watch that.

[Will Hunt]

The world needs more honest opinions about highball grades, Nick. Otherwise we end up in a topsy-turvy place where The Great Flake and Tender Homecoming are listed with the same Font bouldering grade (in fact, they're nearly a whole number apart).

I can't quite picture what the Fox does. You climb the Gypsy but stay on the steep side to top out instead of pulling into the niche? I can't remember whether the green book gives a Font grade for that - what would you give it? Same question for Gypus.
Was there no psyche for Opus? I've been up to "the move" but chickened out. Must go back.

[SA Chris]

M - recovered from HM. tired but not wasted.
T - tempo session at lunchtime on treadmill. Tried 3:45 pace, but couldn't sustain for distance so did intervals instead.
W - Boulder session at wall.  managed two aims for the night disappointingly early, so failed spectacularly on some harder stuff, and wore skin too thin.
T - easy 7 km at lunch with colleague who has a different idea of "easy"
F - Beach proms lunchtime 3 K. Brutal headwind on the way out, damage done for return part. Official time 11:54, ten sec off pb. Currently fastest MSV for the series, but there is an M60+ faster than me. Boulder comp in evening. Setting shite, way too hard for us vets. Finished scond in local competition.
S - run home from town - 14 km in a brutal headwind, completely draining wrt energy and cold. Knackered. Got home and dozed off watching rugby, didn't miss much.
S - not much, walk to the park with kids, play on the boulder.

[spidermonkey09]

Same question for Gypus.

I thought this was about 6C. Harder than the Gypsy I think.

[Bradders]

I can't quite picture what the Fox does. You climb the Gypsy but stay on the steep side to top out instead of pulling into the niche? I can't remember whether the green book gives a Font grade for that - what would you give it? Same question for Gypus.
Was there no psyche for Opus? I've been up to "the move" but chickened out. Must go back.

Yes climb Gypsy but stay on the steep to make a hard move out left to the lip, then top out direct over the nose (although I still ended up using the niche a bit for feet). It climbs the full line of the arete/prow essentially rather than copping out right. Green guide says 7A+ I think; spot on in my view.

Gypus yards up from undercuts to an obvious crimp jug, then makes a big move left to the niche. Guide says 6C+. Definitely harder than Gypsy but grade will depend on how big the crux move is for you.

By the time I'd done the others I wanted to get back up to Exorcist so didn't even look at Opus. Keen though, let me know if you're going.

Tender Homecoming. Keen for a rematch at some point.

Likewise with this. Very keen but I have no friends willing to come try it

[Footwork]

Beta alert

Missing one of the best moves at the crag doing it this way though!

This is how I feel about the new beta on Ill Gotten Gains 

[User deactivated.]

Finally achieving some form on the fingerboard this week. Things i've learnt for gaining finger strength:

Fingerboarding every day works better for me than every 2nd or 3rd day. My recruitment drops off rapidly.
Hangs less than 10s don't seem to be as effective for me (not enough volume / time under tension?)
my edge was too big and it felt like i could kind of drag even in half crimp allowing for varying levels of assistance.

This week's highlights:

I'm now using a small beastmaker campus rung as my edge and have progressed by adding 5kg over the past week.
Also lost 2lb over the week down to just over 13 stone.
Failed on the keel yet again - need a stiffer/pointier shoe, i'm struggling with a no edge sportiva genius in the crack.
Failed on the drey (Caley) but it was very green
Did Otzi (Caley) 2nd go (also green)
Walked up dark side of chi (Cliff) which is listed as 7B but is really 6C ish surely?
2 sessions on the depot 30 degree board - think the 50 is a touch too hard for me to get the most out of it
2 sessions x gymnasts rings workouts

[spidermonkey09]

Thur - Board session, 8 problems probably all V3 - top end V4 done twice each as the board has a mirror function all quite long as 10 - 15 moves each. Worked a project of mine on crimps which I'd guess to be about V5 (set by somebody else) normally this would be my style but the moves are quite wide, got 2 moves further than before.

Good effort actually repeating problems both sides of the board. I always intend to do this and sack it off once I tick something on one side, especially if its taken ages...

[sam_read]

Thanks mate, on stuff well within my limit it’s an easy way to repeat what I know to be a good problem however I tend to find on limit stuff the mirrored problem will either be drastically either or harder......never the same!

[Coops_13]

M: Apartment Gym. 10 mins elliptical. Core workout - 300 core movements. Press-ups on sideways kettle bell *3 each side * 3 sets = 18 press-ups. Shoulder rehab to finish - wall slides, scapular push-ups, shoulder rotations, reverse flys

T: DBC. 20 boulders up to V3. Nine graded M-. Confidence still building but not there yet. 30 press-ups. Shoulders, hips and legs stretching. Shoulder press and shoulder strengthening exercises (using stretcy band equipment)

W: Apartment Gym. 10 mins elliptical. Core workout - 300 core movements. Press-ups on sideways kettle bell *3 each side * 3 sets = 18 press-ups. 10 scapular push-ups to finish

T: DBC. 25 boulders up to V4. 13 M-, 3 M. Still flashing all that I try but starting to feel more challenging, fingers and skin a bit sore as they get used to it. Shoulder cross-symmetry bands and shoulder exercises for rotator cuff. Stabilising press-ups on Bosu Ball

Sun: DBC. 25 boulders up to V4. 11 M-, 8 M. Still flashing all that I try and sent hardest boulder since injury which felt good. Skin sore at the end. Forgot to tape wrist (probably 80% psychological) but climbed anyway, wrist sore after (original injury). Shoulder cross-symmetry bands and shoulder exercises for rotator cuff. Stabilising press-ups on Bosu Ball (didn't seem to aggravate wrist but press-ups the next day a bit sore)

Wrist flared up slightly with original dorsal side injury, will see if it settles down for a sesh on Tuesday as I'm traveling the rest of the week. Hoping to get outside for an easy local circuit on Saturday

[spidermonkey09]

Core workout - 300 core movements.

Got a link to this or is it 36C's favourite AbRipperx? I am bored of core and need something new to try...

[36chambers]

Beta alert

Missing one of the best moves at the crag doing it this way though!

This is how I feel about the new beta on Ill Gotten Gains 

The best move being the one where you just bear down on a grim ratty crimp?

Are you sure you're not just upset about the subsequent downgrade?

[dunnyg]

You can put 10 core exercises in a hat, pick 5 and do 3 sets of them. Keeps it mixed up.

[Coops_13]

Core workout - 300 core movements.

Got a link to this or is it 36C's favourite AbRipperx? I am bored of core and need something new to try...

It's something I made up a bit from ab ripper X, and some climbing core videos. All floor-based due to wonky wrist... Holds are 25 secs, apologies if names for them are wrong

Windshield Wipers X25
Flutter kicks X25
Boat Hold X25
Bicycle crunches X25
Reverse crunches X25
Plank hold X25
Plank side to side X25
Bad dog X25
Supermans X25
Mountain climbers X25 (on elbows for me)
Toe touches X25
Mason twists X25

Not super hard (I'd say easier than ARX) but fun enough for me to stay motivated and do them regularly. And as dunnyg said, if you don't like one exercise or get bored just switch em out

[SA Chris]

Didn't fancy hitting the powder then Coops

https://www.aspentimes.com/news/vails-lift-line-woes-continue-on-heels-of-historic-powder-conditions-over-weekend/

an EPIC pass weekend

[Coops_13]

Didn't fancy hitting the powder then Coops

https://www.aspentimes.com/news/vails-lift-line-woes-continue-on-heels-of-historic-powder-conditions-over-weekend/

an EPIC pass weekend

I know. Breck has had 62 inches in the last week 
I was on wedding venue viewing duty...

[SA Chris]

oof, hard times. I know you can get married at Sunspot at Winter Park (an I suspect other resorts), should have suggested checking that out..

[Coops_13]

oof, hard times. I know you can get married at Sunspot at Winter Park (an I suspect other resorts), should have suggested checking that out..

Yeah views of hillsides full of metal are not really for me (summer wedding) but it's a good excuse

[36chambers]

(summer wedding)

Will I still be able to go climbing somewhere with decent connies??

edit: Asking for a friend...

[Will Hunt]

(summer wedding)

I must say this is very poorly planned. If the connies are toss, how can the success of the pre-wedding climbing session be assured? A send-free morning is a worse portent for the future than the groom seeing the bride before the aisle.

[tomtom]

Thur - Board session, 8 problems probably all V3 - top end V4 done twice each as the board has a mirror function all quite long as 10 - 15 moves each. Worked a project of mine on crimps which I'd guess to be about V5 (set by somebody else) normally this would be my style but the moves are quite wide, got 2 moves further than before.

Good effort actually repeating problems both sides of the board. I always intend to do this and sack it off once I tick something on one side, especially if its taken ages...

I find the most befuddling bit of mirroring problems are feet! Hands are signposted so easy but I then have to reverse my foot sequence 😂

[Coops_13]

(summer wedding)

Will I still be able to go climbing somewhere with decent connies??

edit: Asking for a friend...

Alpine will be primo mate

https://lmgtfy.com/?q=alpine+bouldering+colorado

[cheque]

I was looking at this the other day as I’ll be “out west” myself June/ July- the entire state of Colorado is above 1000m and the humidity seems to be rarely over 50%. Should be alright.

[Coops_13]

I was looking at this the other day as I’ll be “out west” myself June/ July- the entire state of Colorado is above 1000m and the humidity seems to be rarely over 50%. Should be alright.

It's hot in summer though, need to be over c.10,000 ft really / in shade. Let me know when you're out if you want to boulder

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - DL, clean, press, high pull complex 6x10. Clean and press finisher 30".
Tue - rest.
Wed - Emom pull ups 5x10. Weights complex x5.
Thu - fingers, garage session. Strong. Bar work in between hangs. Glutes, one arm high pulls. Clean and press finisher 30".
Fri - rest.
Sat - push ups, squat, pull ups, lateral raises.
Sun - glutes, shoulders, etc.