[tomtom]

Afternoon...

M: Work, Mad Volume after work - Bumped into Fat Boy Slim Fast which was unexpected (not seen him for ten years or so) and had a good yarn. Also had a really good session on the woody there. First time on it for 6-7 weeks and did a few things I'd not done before. Noticably stronger. RAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAHHHH! (irony emoticon please)

Tu: Stretching

We: Church on the way home. Do I have one of those please chat to me faces? Maybe best not answered.. Had three conversations with random strangers at the crag. Two dog walkers and one bloke on a £7k eMTB who talked alot about himself and then effortlessly whirred off into the distance. So long was his rambling that I cooled down and had to re-warm up. Still - they were all being friendly. Anyway despite being so good on Monday I was crap.. one floaty go on Gullivers Travels and the rest was turd.

Th: Great day out at Burbage du Nord with Lagers and later Dolly. Did some great easy problems down near Voyager etc.. and I enjoyed Yabadabadoo. Good times - lying in the sun drinking Dollys coffee. Then moved down to Monochrome etc... and tried a couple of the 7's on the flakey face. Did the SUPERB 6B/C along the top edge of that face - and kind of figured out how to do Flakey Pants Sika Cracker Sitter eliminate (or whatever its called - the easiest one) and then had to rush to get back to Manchester to pick the lad up from school... made it with 1 min to spare...

Fri: Family day... looked around a house...

Sa: MrsTT took the lad to a party and sent me out climbing. I went to the Wiltons. Tried really really hard but didnt manage to do what I really wanted to do Sent a text about 1:30 saying "how much time have I got" and got one back "take the rest of the day" - at which point I wished I had gone to the pass for the day Had a couple of hours at home to myself to relax and watch some films (good).

Su: Manc Depot with the Lad for RockTots. He climbed the best he has... He has trad bumbler written all over him... pottering around, traversing, yo-yo-ing, testing holds etc... most unlike most 3.5 year olds. When I left the place was already heaving....

Weight now consistently below 70kg (was 72 after Xmas) and I feel like I'm climbing really well on wooden boards but can't translate that outside. Ironically I usually have the opposite issue!

Also - on Sat, I put pinholes in every tip on my LH from a crimp. Its not a particularly nasty crimp (its 4-5mm or so, but not sharp) but I've never had several pinholes at once (they were all from sucessive attempts not one)... wonder if its anything to do with the TipJuice (tm) I've been putting on for the last couple of weeks (only twice a week)...

[Will Hunt]

Tuesday - lamp sesh at Eldwick with Harry. Warmed up on a few things in the right bay - one was previously unrecorded and quite nice. Harry had a very good bash on the roofy thing there. Went round to Albatross and had a go. The top is steady but the start is impossible for me, I think. I put my feet on the footholds and got Harry to push me into position. With my body flat on the wall I can just about curl the fingertips of each hand onto the two holds that you reach between (open handed). Outlanked!
Repeated Racing Raymond which I remember being good, but I think this must be my favourite move anywhere. You paste your left foot on and swing up high to some nice flakes.
https://www.instagram.com/p/B8L_Rjcj9Vg/?igshid=1g6hmg1taazyu
Then over to Footlocker. Did it using some suspect but logical holds for the feet. Later found out this wasn't legit. Finished off with some tricky eliminates that Harry invented.

Sa - the highball train went to Brimham for a go on Tender Homecoming. We were all derailed by a suggested Font grade that was actually about accurate. Ben could have done it but goes into all body shake as soon as he's two moves up anything. It took us a while to suss how to get feet into the high pocket and by that point skin had been chewed a bit. I had one decent go going into the left hand undercut but it was sharp and when I fell off I found I had two split tips! Keen for a rematch at some point.

Then off to the prize. First go it felt piss but I got the sequence wrong and fell off just before the high break. Was completely ruined from that go and then just went backwards. Had a go getting into the high break but too powered out to do anything with it. Dave and Ben did it because they're shit friends. Disappointing as it's hard to get pads under these things if your mates have already done it. It felt about 7A/+ so should have gone really. I suppose having two taped tips didn't help 

Sunday - splashed about in the kids pool and then went to the cafe for a full English and pudding. The big weigh in tomorrow morning!

[Will Hunt]

By the way, while Church Crag is the zeitgeist, what are the holds like on Gulliver's or one of the slightly easier things? Might have a day next Sunday. Skin friendly or not so thin that climbing taped will be a problem?

[dunnyg]

how long does your skin take to grow?

[Will Hunt]

Splitting to blood I could climb on comfy lime (like sport climbing probably) in a week, properly healed after 2.

[dunnyg]

 

[yetix]

M: ill, bed bound working from home all day.
T: ill, bed bound working from home all day.
W: still a little ill, but ventured to Craig Peniel, managed to do the Inkerman, inspired by Fiends video and it was pretty brilliant I'm not gonna lie, took longer than I would have liked it to have done, but worth the trip. Tried to do some Fingerboarding in the evening and felt far to spent to do anything of worth.
T: rest
F: weather looked mega so booked it off. Ventured to Lad Stones solo, what a crag! Warmed up on Hades Lair, before doing the low and left hand start fairly quickly. Went and did Underground Butler shortly afterwards, missed the pads for the 2nd move first go, then did from the 2nd move to the top before going from the bottom. Really enjoyed it. Went and tried Traci Lords which felt nails! Managed to do Black Cauldron though which I was pretty stoked about. Really want to go back for Stella, Warstarter and Traci Lords soon!
S: Felt pretty spent but ventured to Alsmcliffe for the first time, managed to do Flying Arete, Demon Wall Roof and Dophlin Belly Slap each within a few goes. Had a look at the Keel and Underhand, both looked like they'd suit me, so will go back for these soon.

Productive week after feeling like I've not been climbing well. Hope the weather clears on Wednesday and Sat so I can get out again before I go away next Sunday on my first non climbing trip in aeons!

[duncan]

Tomtom: sounds like tt jr has his heart in the right place!

STG: enjoy climbing (when I get the chance); try hard three times a week.
MTG: embrace sport-climbing, RP 7b+; classic sea-cliff (or similar) E5 before 7.06.2020.
LTG: tbc


M - Westway routes: 35 mins of aerocap; shoulder strength: handstands, side planks, asymmetric press-ups, IsTsYs.
T - 10km brisk walking
W - Shoulder strength
T - Fingerboard ‘max.’ hangs (6 seconds at +5kg)
F - Shoulder strength, pull-ups (6x5), 9km brisk walking
S - Fingerboard ‘max.’ hangs (7 seconds at +5kg), Shoulder strength, 12km brisk walking.
S - Shoulder strength.

Week 2 of single parenting: no deaths, houses burnt down, or visits from social services so I’m counting it a success.

Not much climbing but some trying-hard and no injuries despite feeling a bit under the weather. Hanging 18mm edges with a small weight attached to me probably counts as some kind of finger strength progress. Clearly plenty of room for improvement.

Plan: more of this. 

[Fiend]

W: still a little ill, but ventured to Craig Peniel, managed to do the Inkerman, inspired by Fiends video and it was pretty brilliant I'm not gonna lie, took longer than I would have liked it to have done, but worth the trip.

<3 nice

[nai]

STG: Moonboard 7A, Depot 50 6B, Font 7C
2020 Lime, Grit and AN Other Font 7Cs.

M - Started at Stanton In to warm up.  Managed to top out Lean To at last, having been denied by green slime previously. Briefly tried the 6C prow, decent moves to ge the top then LOL/WTF at the mantel.
Off to main event at Rowtor, Chip Shop Mantel seemed dry at last so Yoghurt Hypnotist was on. Abbed it to clean out the gutter and brush the shelves which were still slightly damp.
Did YH second attempt then blew the CS mantel but managed to repeat it fourth go and scraped up the top.  Bit of anticlimax,  I was sure it was nails when I worked it out in October but felt soft today.
Core back home

T - nowt

W - Tor - Cave SS not a dry as hoped, first move not worth trying but refined and linked moves 2-4 into the stand. Hoped to link into the heel but never quite held the crimp on the stand first move. Slot was sub-par though so was happy with progress.  The way Cave Problem itself came together it might just be a matter of rocking up on the right day.
Had a quick play on Ben's and managed the cross through move for the first time. Just the knee release and kick move to do.
HI Core

Th

Fri - what a lovely day for a Plantation circuit, maybe see if Brad Pit might have become feasible after five or more years since last trying it...

Is pretty much what I thinking from waking to arriving, feeling slightly guilty, at The Tor.

Cave Problem even wetter than it had been on Wednesday. Not the right day... Suspected as much but you don't knew unless you go look.  Nearly left but Ben's has got me now, too.  Took a while but managed the knee release after reaching LH minging undercut crimp, then eventually the kick. Tried to link from initial kneebar but was too deep into the session (or its just too hard for me  ).
 
Lesg - OH squat, front squat, upper part of DL, few pistols.

S rest

S - Split a cuticle on Friday, after trying a warm up decided against climbing or even hanging on it so just a conditioning set:
 
fast pullups
TRX:
Low row
Pressup
Fly/T & reverse
Y & reverse
Introduced Archer pressups
LVL sits
Corey "I" walkouts
Bat crunches

[Steve R]

By the way, while Church Crag is the zeitgeist, what are the holds like on Gulliver's or one of the slightly easier things? Might have a day next Sunday. Skin friendly or not so thin that climbing taped will be a problem?

If your skin wasn't up to Gulliver's (bit crimpy but not ratty for lime), reckon the shield problems + the other traversey links would be fine with buggered skin - big moves on big holds sort of thing.  Would be keen to see you pay a visit there, unprecedented downgrading potential 

[Will Hunt]

THEN WHAT ARE WE WAITING FOR?!?!
Thanks for the beta. I called in once on the way back from a session at Anston to see what it was like. Had a play on the shield and it felt very frustrating - like a very percentagey slap into a good hold. Will see how the skin is next weekend.

[shark]

11.6 160.3 average up 0.5lbs. Must. Do. Better

M.

T. Noon. Tor of course - never in question! Low humidity, breezy - connies! What a change from Friday. Just me then Andy H turned up later. THFML x2. Decided to precede the first move of the “new” section with an extra foot move so I had to set up and wasn’t just pulling on and throwing for the crimp. Managed to get to crimp and move off it twice - first time getting all the way to doing the kick move and connecting with the niche and second time falling off setting up for kick. Happy with that. After that tired so tried from second move in (of new bit ie starting stretched out with LH in pocket and RH on crimp) and rewarded with linking all the way past cross thru and in to THFML falling off the lurch which is 9 moves in total (out of 17). Felt like a breakthrough link as I find the cross through really hard and getting through it after the preceding two hard moves when tired exceeded expectations.
Evening. Recruitment hangs. DB cleans.

W.

T. More Tor. Noon. Beautiful day. Tor. Kris and Zips there. More seepage than tues weirdly considering it hadn’t been raining. THFML x2. Added a further foot move to precede the first move of the “new section” so making two foot moves before throwing for the crimp. Managed to do this and get to crimp and move off it twice first time not getting much further then second time took myself by surprise getting foot on niche - relapsed into starting old sequence before correcting myself and setting up properly to do cross through and nearly got it tickling the pinch Only other link of note was repeating Tuesdays link at the end of the session going from second move in (of new bit ie starting stretched out with LH in pocket and RH on crimp) and in to THFML falling off the lurch again. Between goes quizzed Zips about the history. Seems it was Bashers project before he passed it over to Ben who did it in 20 minutes.

F.

S. Had planned to have a big day of climbing and training but woke up still feeling broken especially shoulders.
Noon. Went on systems board and did benchmarks and managed new hard version of throw move twice. Had one go on PE/AnCap problem then failed on second attempt so called it. Clearly needed an extra rest day. Hey ho. Eve Friends over for dinner. Excessive eating and drinking

S.

Came within a whisker of linking the whole ‘new’ section on Ben’s which is certainly hardest piece of climbing I’ve done to date The physical effort on each go feels like doing a deadlift because it hammers my core so much. Feels like I’ve strained something in right shoulder probably from doing and attempting throw move. I suspect that the wheels will be falling off the wagon soon requiring an easy week.

Kamikaze mission to Ramshaw tomorrow. Think Nick has gone stir crazy.

[Footwork]

THEN WHAT ARE WE WAITING FOR?!?!
Thanks for the beta. I called in once on the way back from a session at Anston to see what it was like. Had a play on the shield and it felt very frustrating - like a very percentagey slap into a good hold. Will see how the skin is next weekend.

You'll be fine on Gulliver's with taped tips. Do you want the easy beta though? 

[Will Hunt]

DM me, bbz

[HarryBD]

Evening,

M - 30min lunchtime run, canal shut so up to Heptonstall which tired the legs out a tad. Max hangs in the evening, 6x10s -4kg felt more doable than last week. Progress is good.

T - Lamps at Eldwick with Will. Warmed up on some crumbly stuff. Got close on a roof dyno. Then got on Stenna arête 6B+ which took some figuring out but got there in the end. Got out the quarry and onto the natural block and enjoyed scaring myself on the f3!!!s not sure if the grades were jokes or I couldn’t see the holds... flashed Huntsman 6A and then got nowhere on some harder but much cooler eliminates.

W - Lamps at Shipley Glen. Came with the sole intention of trying Manson’s Wall. Warmed up on the stuff next to Red Baron inc. flash of Amalgam 6A. Got the beta figured out but ran out of power and skin so resolved to come back ASAP.

T - Forgot my kit for a lunch run so didn’t do any exercise

F - As above but with added food. Did go to laser tag for a colleagues leaving do which got the HR up a bit... Restrained myself at the pub and only had non alcoholic beers including a nice wheat beer. T total until I get my lardy arse under 80kg. Can’t wait!

S - Walk at Malham while my girlfriend (Lily) did a photo shoot for a couple. Played around with my new camera. Put the Ire-Wal game on then thought f - that, conditions are mint. Went to the glen with Lily, warmed up on Parker bloc eliminates. Pulled on Parker which I’ve not managed before. Main event ready to siege Manson’s into oblivion. Got up it first go of the session, felt light as hell and the crimps just held onto me is the only way I could describe it. Amazing feeling to climb like that. https://www.instagram.com/p/B8W9DsIlam3tCpREqiVUWFK735ZIRIZ7ZCNH7s0/?igshid=88wh8mh8zz5a

S - Hid from the weather in City Bloc. Intended to do the comp problems but couldn’t be bothered and wanted to practice steep stuff as this is a weakness. Few problems dispatched then finished off on the board. Not climbed on a steep board before and think it’s got a lot to give me.

Class week and down to 80.8 kg so needle in the right direction there.

[tomtom]

THEN WHAT ARE WE WAITING FOR?!?!
Thanks for the beta. I called in once on the way back from a session at Anston to see what it was like. Had a play on the shield and it felt very frustrating - like a very percentagey slap into a good hold. Will see how the skin is next weekend.

You'll be fine on Gulliver's with taped tips. Do you want the easy beta though? 

Cmon - spill the beanz...

[Will Hunt]

Great effort on Manson's, Harry. Small holds on that!

[Footwork]

THEN WHAT ARE WE WAITING FOR?!?!
Thanks for the beta. I called in once on the way back from a session at Anston to see what it was like. Had a play on the shield and it felt very frustrating - like a very percentagey slap into a good hold. Will see how the skin is next weekend.

You'll be fine on Gulliver's with taped tips. Do you want the easy beta though? 

Cmon - spill the beanz...

Beta alert

NSFW  :

Instead of getting the gaston with your left hand before the throw to the pockets, flip the left pinch to an undercut, get the then gaston as a right sidepull and then go again with your right hand off the undercut. Much steadier and only slightly harder set up (from memory you need to build your feet a bit).

[tommytwotone]

Blimey, Hunt's gonna have a field day at Church. Even I reckon there are a couple of soft touches there and I'm a weak midget.

[spidermonkey09]

M - board session at the wall. Climbed OK but burned out pretty quick due to not resting enough. Bicep felt a bit tweaky from the max hangs the day before.

T - rest. Felt broken.

W - Back in Leeds for work so went to Depot in the evening. Good session rolling around doing some purples. Brief play on the board, could still do a few things on it at least. Stopped when I started to feel my arm playing up.

T - rest.

F - rest.

S - Peak. Started at Burbage West so Scott could box off WSS. In the meantime I did The Nose fairly easily with the short person beta; brilliant problem this way. Had a few goes on Ron-Side but thought it unreasonably reachy so sacked it; good option for the resident lanky downgrader. After a rest headed off to Higgar to try Piss/Shit. Did Piss quite quickly and a quick beta check meant I started getting through the roof on Shit. Powered out several times on the last move but pleased how quickly I got there. Also flashed the alleged 7A to the left which was good but either a shit eliminate or not 7A. Headed round to try Witness the Gritness in gale force winds and eventually got there; good problem that climbs like limestone and is just the right height. Scott and Rob turned up having both done WSS in the interim    Headed back to the cars but Rob was keen to try Mermaid so joined him with a lamp. Surprisingly flashed it in mint conditions which was a surprise as it was supposed to be desperate. Tried the 6c+ arete and predictably got shutdown for 20 mins. Eventually whaled over the top and called it. Great long session; 5 7s in a day constitutes good mileage for me. Keen to go back and finish off Shit.

S - rest. Felt broken.

Good week although annoyingly no max hangs looking back, will have to rectify that this week.

[tomtom]

Blimey, Hunt's gonna have a field day at Church. Even I reckon there are a couple of soft touches there and I'm a weak midget.

Albatross good at crimpy wall climbing downgrades shocker..

Quite fickle on the conditions at Church - a good day can make all the difference...

[Bradders]

Beta alert

Missing one of the best moves at the crag doing it this way though!

[Will Hunt]

Albatross

Went round to Albatross and had a go ... Outlanked!

Please. This is very hurtful. Given the recent confirmation of my meagre wingspan, I would prefer to be called a Condor.

[sam_read]

Not a great week for me, lingering illness has left me feeling pretty tired and unmotivated.

Mon  - Nothing
Tue - 6a x 4 then 6b x 4 to warm up then a work a 4 x 4 workout on the following 6b+, 6b+, hard 6b and 6c+.
Wed - Nothing
Thur - Board session, 8 problems probably all V3 - top end V4 done twice each as the board has a mirror function all quite long as 10 - 15 moves each. Worked a project of mine on crimps which I'd guess to be about V5 (set by somebody else) normally this would be my style but the moves are quite wide, got 2 moves further than before.
Fri - Nothing
Sat - Nothing
Sun - Board session, volume ish warm up as before then worked aforementioned project and reliably getting to the penultimate move so good progress, also worked a harder problem featuring big moves on pinches and smaller feet probably V6/7 managed 3 more moves than before however get completely gassed when I add the first move.

Looking back between the auto belay sets and the board sessions its all a bit endurance based, I'll need to add a bit more strength based board sessions in and probably do my 4 x 4 on a lead wall with more 6C and above routes as I've very quickly got to the point that the current sets don't feel like they have the requisite pump factor.

Hopefully I'll have a better week this week ahead of a 5 day trip to the Peak from Saturday which based on the current forecast will involve more plastic pulling and art galleries with my misses than climbing...ideally I'd like to get Weedkiller and "What would Jerry do?" done as I feel halfway fit at the moment.

[Bradders]

M - went to Caley hoping Ben's would be dry. It wasn't. Decided to go to Woodhouse Scar as a south facing but sheltered option in the high winds, forgetting that it takes an hour to get there from Caley. Couple of hours of light left by the time I got there. After a poor warm up I got stuck in on Ian's Roof. I lived less than 10mins from Woodhouse for nearly two years, and had about 6 sessions on Ian's in that time but never finished it off. Bit of a nemesis! Two years since I last tried it and so I arrogantly hoped I'd have improved a bit. Struggled with the moves at first, and as the smell of weed wafted towards me from the locals I remembered why I gave up before. Persisted though as conditions were perfect, and re-did all the moves quickly, then some good links, then managed to do it 2nd time I made it through the first hard move from the start. Really surprised myself and very pleased; feels like good evidence of progression and nice to come away from the Cliff and feel like the "training" I've done there is working.

T - rest

W - went to Caley hoping Ben's would be dry. It wasn't. A friend turned up and suggested going to try Gritty Shaker at St Ives. What a line! Sadly it was damp, still and warm. Had a few goes anyway and made it through the crux once, but couldn't sort feet out. Sacked it quickly; psyched for it but couldn't be arsed with such poor conditions. Midges out...

T - Caley. Ben's. Wet. Almscliff. Went to finish off Exorcist Ear, but it was far too hot in the sun. No wind. Rock warm to touch. Got warmed up anyway and then a friend popped up announcing a pad party on the Virgin boulder. Too good an opportunity to pass up, as I've wanted to do some of the highballs for ages. Did The Lady, The Fox and Gypus which were all very fun indeed. Forgive me whilst I go a bit Will Hunt now; The Lady is more like 6B+ as a highball boulder. Maybe marginally harder than Flying Arete but quite a bit easier than the other two. Others spot on though, and better problems as well I think. Went back up to Exorcist as the sun set and temperature dropped, although rock still very warm. Didn't work any moves just had 3 goes from the start; first go, as I was matched on the big flat crimp setting up for the move to the ear (crux and last hard move) some trad bumblies on Demon Wall dropped a rope down from the top, almost hitting me! Went for the move and got fingertips on the ear but didn't stick it. Second go I hit the ear again, a little better this time, but still not quite high enough to hold it. Third go heel popped setting up for that move. Best I've done on it really but frustrating too. Had to rush attempts as losing light which didn't help, and I suppose getting pumped on jugs earlier didn't either. Finished off squeezing in a first go almost-in-the-dark re-ascent of Syrett's Roof.

F - work, 20 mins stretching / yoga at lunch

S - drove to South Wales visiting family

S - drove home from Wales through the storm. Not actually that bad really. Stopped off at Manchester Depot for an hour and a half. Not been since opening weekend. After warm up flashed half a dozen purples, then a yellow 2nd go. Then onto the big Hardwood / Beastmaker board; not impressed to be honest. The steepness and hold types mean all the set problems mainly involve jumping to jugs. Feels like the sort of board tailored to competition climbers, sure it does have plenty of benefits but maybe not so much crossover to UK bouldering? I much prefer a less steep board with rattier holds...not sure why. Plus being in the main wall it was pretty warm and felt a bit like being in a goldfish bowl. Anyway, did a few of the high 6s and low 7s from the computer. Unfortunately came away feeling a minor bit of bicep pain in my right so need to watch that.

[Will Hunt]

The world needs more honest opinions about highball grades, Nick. Otherwise we end up in a topsy-turvy place where The Great Flake and Tender Homecoming are listed with the same Font bouldering grade (in fact, they're nearly a whole number apart).

I can't quite picture what the Fox does. You climb the Gypsy but stay on the steep side to top out instead of pulling into the niche? I can't remember whether the green book gives a Font grade for that - what would you give it? Same question for Gypus.
Was there no psyche for Opus? I've been up to "the move" but chickened out. Must go back.

[SA Chris]

M - recovered from HM. tired but not wasted.
T - tempo session at lunchtime on treadmill. Tried 3:45 pace, but couldn't sustain for distance so did intervals instead.
W - Boulder session at wall.  managed two aims for the night disappointingly early, so failed spectacularly on some harder stuff, and wore skin too thin.
T - easy 7 km at lunch with colleague who has a different idea of "easy"
F - Beach proms lunchtime 3 K. Brutal headwind on the way out, damage done for return part. Official time 11:54, ten sec off pb. Currently fastest MSV for the series, but there is an M60+ faster than me. Boulder comp in evening. Setting shite, way too hard for us vets. Finished scond in local competition.
S - run home from town - 14 km in a brutal headwind, completely draining wrt energy and cold. Knackered. Got home and dozed off watching rugby, didn't miss much.
S - not much, walk to the park with kids, play on the boulder.

[spidermonkey09]

Same question for Gypus.

I thought this was about 6C. Harder than the Gypsy I think.

[Bradders]

I can't quite picture what the Fox does. You climb the Gypsy but stay on the steep side to top out instead of pulling into the niche? I can't remember whether the green book gives a Font grade for that - what would you give it? Same question for Gypus.
Was there no psyche for Opus? I've been up to "the move" but chickened out. Must go back.

Yes climb Gypsy but stay on the steep to make a hard move out left to the lip, then top out direct over the nose (although I still ended up using the niche a bit for feet). It climbs the full line of the arete/prow essentially rather than copping out right. Green guide says 7A+ I think; spot on in my view.

Gypus yards up from undercuts to an obvious crimp jug, then makes a big move left to the niche. Guide says 6C+. Definitely harder than Gypsy but grade will depend on how big the crux move is for you.

By the time I'd done the others I wanted to get back up to Exorcist so didn't even look at Opus. Keen though, let me know if you're going.

Tender Homecoming. Keen for a rematch at some point.

Likewise with this. Very keen but I have no friends willing to come try it

[Footwork]

Beta alert

Missing one of the best moves at the crag doing it this way though!

This is how I feel about the new beta on Ill Gotten Gains 

[User deactivated.]

Finally achieving some form on the fingerboard this week. Things i've learnt for gaining finger strength:

Fingerboarding every day works better for me than every 2nd or 3rd day. My recruitment drops off rapidly.
Hangs less than 10s don't seem to be as effective for me (not enough volume / time under tension?)
my edge was too big and it felt like i could kind of drag even in half crimp allowing for varying levels of assistance.

This week's highlights:

I'm now using a small beastmaker campus rung as my edge and have progressed by adding 5kg over the past week.
Also lost 2lb over the week down to just over 13 stone.
Failed on the keel yet again - need a stiffer/pointier shoe, i'm struggling with a no edge sportiva genius in the crack.
Failed on the drey (Caley) but it was very green
Did Otzi (Caley) 2nd go (also green)
Walked up dark side of chi (Cliff) which is listed as 7B but is really 6C ish surely?
2 sessions on the depot 30 degree board - think the 50 is a touch too hard for me to get the most out of it
2 sessions x gymnasts rings workouts

[spidermonkey09]

Thur - Board session, 8 problems probably all V3 - top end V4 done twice each as the board has a mirror function all quite long as 10 - 15 moves each. Worked a project of mine on crimps which I'd guess to be about V5 (set by somebody else) normally this would be my style but the moves are quite wide, got 2 moves further than before.

Good effort actually repeating problems both sides of the board. I always intend to do this and sack it off once I tick something on one side, especially if its taken ages...

[sam_read]

Thanks mate, on stuff well within my limit it’s an easy way to repeat what I know to be a good problem however I tend to find on limit stuff the mirrored problem will either be drastically either or harder......never the same!

[Coops_13]

M: Apartment Gym. 10 mins elliptical. Core workout - 300 core movements. Press-ups on sideways kettle bell *3 each side * 3 sets = 18 press-ups. Shoulder rehab to finish - wall slides, scapular push-ups, shoulder rotations, reverse flys

T: DBC. 20 boulders up to V3. Nine graded M-. Confidence still building but not there yet. 30 press-ups. Shoulders, hips and legs stretching. Shoulder press and shoulder strengthening exercises (using stretcy band equipment)

W: Apartment Gym. 10 mins elliptical. Core workout - 300 core movements. Press-ups on sideways kettle bell *3 each side * 3 sets = 18 press-ups. 10 scapular push-ups to finish

T: DBC. 25 boulders up to V4. 13 M-, 3 M. Still flashing all that I try but starting to feel more challenging, fingers and skin a bit sore as they get used to it. Shoulder cross-symmetry bands and shoulder exercises for rotator cuff. Stabilising press-ups on Bosu Ball

Sun: DBC. 25 boulders up to V4. 11 M-, 8 M. Still flashing all that I try and sent hardest boulder since injury which felt good. Skin sore at the end. Forgot to tape wrist (probably 80% psychological) but climbed anyway, wrist sore after (original injury). Shoulder cross-symmetry bands and shoulder exercises for rotator cuff. Stabilising press-ups on Bosu Ball (didn't seem to aggravate wrist but press-ups the next day a bit sore)

Wrist flared up slightly with original dorsal side injury, will see if it settles down for a sesh on Tuesday as I'm traveling the rest of the week. Hoping to get outside for an easy local circuit on Saturday

[spidermonkey09]

Core workout - 300 core movements.

Got a link to this or is it 36C's favourite AbRipperx? I am bored of core and need something new to try...

[36chambers]

Beta alert

Missing one of the best moves at the crag doing it this way though!

This is how I feel about the new beta on Ill Gotten Gains 

The best move being the one where you just bear down on a grim ratty crimp?

Are you sure you're not just upset about the subsequent downgrade?

[dunnyg]

You can put 10 core exercises in a hat, pick 5 and do 3 sets of them. Keeps it mixed up.

[Coops_13]

Core workout - 300 core movements.

Got a link to this or is it 36C's favourite AbRipperx? I am bored of core and need something new to try...

It's something I made up a bit from ab ripper X, and some climbing core videos. All floor-based due to wonky wrist... Holds are 25 secs, apologies if names for them are wrong

Windshield Wipers X25
Flutter kicks X25
Boat Hold X25
Bicycle crunches X25
Reverse crunches X25
Plank hold X25
Plank side to side X25
Bad dog X25
Supermans X25
Mountain climbers X25 (on elbows for me)
Toe touches X25
Mason twists X25

Not super hard (I'd say easier than ARX) but fun enough for me to stay motivated and do them regularly. And as dunnyg said, if you don't like one exercise or get bored just switch em out

[SA Chris]

Didn't fancy hitting the powder then Coops

https://www.aspentimes.com/news/vails-lift-line-woes-continue-on-heels-of-historic-powder-conditions-over-weekend/

an EPIC pass weekend

[Coops_13]

Didn't fancy hitting the powder then Coops

https://www.aspentimes.com/news/vails-lift-line-woes-continue-on-heels-of-historic-powder-conditions-over-weekend/

an EPIC pass weekend

I know. Breck has had 62 inches in the last week 
I was on wedding venue viewing duty...

[SA Chris]

oof, hard times. I know you can get married at Sunspot at Winter Park (an I suspect other resorts), should have suggested checking that out..

[Coops_13]

oof, hard times. I know you can get married at Sunspot at Winter Park (an I suspect other resorts), should have suggested checking that out..

Yeah views of hillsides full of metal are not really for me (summer wedding) but it's a good excuse

[36chambers]

(summer wedding)

Will I still be able to go climbing somewhere with decent connies??

edit: Asking for a friend...

[Will Hunt]

(summer wedding)

I must say this is very poorly planned. If the connies are toss, how can the success of the pre-wedding climbing session be assured? A send-free morning is a worse portent for the future than the groom seeing the bride before the aisle.

[tomtom]

Thur - Board session, 8 problems probably all V3 - top end V4 done twice each as the board has a mirror function all quite long as 10 - 15 moves each. Worked a project of mine on crimps which I'd guess to be about V5 (set by somebody else) normally this would be my style but the moves are quite wide, got 2 moves further than before.

Good effort actually repeating problems both sides of the board. I always intend to do this and sack it off once I tick something on one side, especially if its taken ages...

I find the most befuddling bit of mirroring problems are feet! Hands are signposted so easy but I then have to reverse my foot sequence 😂

[Coops_13]

(summer wedding)

Will I still be able to go climbing somewhere with decent connies??

edit: Asking for a friend...

Alpine will be primo mate

https://lmgtfy.com/?q=alpine+bouldering+colorado

[cheque]

I was looking at this the other day as I’ll be “out west” myself June/ July- the entire state of Colorado is above 1000m and the humidity seems to be rarely over 50%. Should be alright.

[Coops_13]

I was looking at this the other day as I’ll be “out west” myself June/ July- the entire state of Colorado is above 1000m and the humidity seems to be rarely over 50%. Should be alright.

It's hot in summer though, need to be over c.10,000 ft really / in shade. Let me know when you're out if you want to boulder

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - DL, clean, press, high pull complex 6x10. Clean and press finisher 30".
Tue - rest.
Wed - Emom pull ups 5x10. Weights complex x5.
Thu - fingers, garage session. Strong. Bar work in between hangs. Glutes, one arm high pulls. Clean and press finisher 30".
Fri - rest.
Sat - push ups, squat, pull ups, lateral raises.
Sun - glutes, shoulders, etc.

[SA Chris]

I was looking at this the other day as I’ll be “out west” myself June/ July- the entire state of Colorado is above 1000m and the humidity seems to be rarely over 50%. Should be alright.

Places like Eldo will be like an oven, as will a lot of the lower lying sport crags. Stuff facing every direction and at also high, if you choose wisely you'll only have one lifetime worth of stuff to climb.

[James Malloch]

Mon - Awesome Walls, Sheffield. 5 autobelay to warm up / get pumped. Few Easy routes on main wall and some more auto belay up to 7b. Decided to try out the Kilterboard for the rest of the session and spent a few hours on that. What a great board! Did a whole bunch of things up to 7A - proper try-hard session for me.

Weds - City Bloc, Leeds. Felt really good warming up doing a bunch of Greys & Yellows (they seem very soft or I’ve got noticeably better). Did some 1-arm hang benchmarking on bottom BM 2000 rung. Started at -12.5kg (my old lattice test score) and got down to 8.5kg assistance for a 5 second hang on both arms. RH was noticeably more stable (Felt pretty easy whereas LH was failing on 5s) but think I was a bit tired as then went on to fail on 7.5kg assistance on it. 

Finished off with some stretching and weighted pull ups. 5 x 20kg, 4 (+1 after little rest) x 20kg, 3 (+1) x 20kg.

My thoughts for weighted pull ups were to try and get to a set of 5 x 5 @ 20kg which I think would be doable if I kept it up for a month. Though not sure the best way to go about it. Any advice on these would be welcomed!

Sunday - day out in Storm Ciara flow-gauging in the Yorkshire Dales. Few touch and go moments thinking we would write the car off driving through standing (well, flowing really) water but made it there and got the measurements we needed. The drive took nearly 3x as long as normal due to the many diversions we had to navigate so ended up missing the highest flows. Proper knackering day out. Cardio ticked for the week... Kilnsey looked pretty wet on the drive home.

[spidermonkey09]

Proper knackering day out. Cardio ticked for the week... Kilnsey looked pretty wet on the drive home.

Presumably a high clearance car! Forecast for Malham on Sunday was 50mm of rain blowing directly into the cove at 50mph 

On the pullups, I haven't done any of these but would have thought its good to train by completing the set even if you reduce weight to do so. eg. do the first 3 with 20kg and 4th and 5th set with 10kg on to get used to it and gradually increase the weight as you get stronger?

[James Malloch]

Proper knackering day out. Cardio ticked for the week... Kilnsey looked pretty wet on the drive home.

Presumably a high clearance car! Forecast for Malham on Sunday was 50mm of rain blowing directly into the cove at 50mph 

On the pullups, I haven't done any of these but would have thought its good to train by completing the set even if you reduce weight to do so. eg. do the first 3 with 20kg and 4th and 5th set with 10kg on to get used to it and gradually increase the weight as you get stronger?

Citroen Berlingo so quite a high air intake. We went past c.5pm so levels had started receding. A BMW was stuck/written off there which spooked us a little. But a VW golf got through so we risked it. THe broken down car caused the road to narrow so we created a HUGE wave in front of us (easily above bonnet) as the water was forced into a narrow gap. At that point it was a case of just not stopping 

Re the pull ups, that’s probably a good idea. Either that or dropping the weight & increasing once a full 5x5 set is complete, perhaps.

[JohnM]

Weight 10st5lb-6lb

M: Bouldering indoors up to V6. 5 x pulley assisted one arm hangs on Beastmaker central slot with 6kg. 5 x 2 arm hangs on lower outside edges + 20kg. Weighted pull ups 3 x 3 15kg, 3 x 5 10kg, 3 x 8 5kg. Failed in last 2 sets. Not a bad session. Elbow/bicep tendon feeling better but still have an issue in my trap and up the right side of my neck.

T: Warm up bouldering up to V5. Then up to the training room to do 4 x 4s on an 11 move boulder I had devised in a previous session. However, my trap and neck were feeling terrible and I could barely climb the boulder once comfortably so I gave up. Tried to salvage the session with some foot on campusing (2-2.5 minutes on and 5 minutes off) but my skin was too sore to try hard. Abandoned the session in a bad mood. My neck/trap has been bad for over 3 weeks now and is really debilitating. PM - went to see Monster Magnet in Munich. Drove home in horrendous conditions and then got stuck behind the snowplough until 1am.

W: 10km run as fast as I could go. I still can't get close to under 40 minutes. Maybe with less snow and ice on the ground.

T: AM - Minute on/off hill sprints x 12 (2 sets). PM - 5 x 5 minute/0.5km hill runs + a trail run up to a hut at 1018m (14km + 1057m).

F: Running and then fast hiking in the snow up to a hut at 1500m (12km + 950m).

S: Climbing at Starkenbach for the first time. The rock quality didn't look great but produced good steep lines through wildly overhanging terrain. There was a lot of snow melt coming through the rock. Warmed up on a traddy 5c, then a 7a+ (fell in the easy top slab as it was covered in grime and water) then tried an awesome 7c. Really fun climbing on mainly huge jugs but really overhanging. Fell on the only part that wasn't a jug as it was covered in wet slimey chalk. Tried again but it had got even wetter and my fitness levels are poor so I was too pumped to overcompensate. Finished on a quality 7a with amazing moves.

S: Long 6 hour run (39km + 2150m).

Not a bad week overall. My neck and trap had eased towards the end of the week and I was moving well during the outdoor climbing session. I just have no stamina after missing the best part of 2 months not being able to train properly. The running is still going great and my fatigue threshold has increased massively. After 39km on Sunday I could have just kept going but i'd arranged to go the cinema. Last year I would have been sore for a couple of days afterwards as well but on Monday I felt fine. Now I just need to get my climbing stamina up to the same level!

[eastside]

Hello gentlemen and ladies,

May I join the club on the next round?

I've recently gotten back into systematic training and would love to track via the power club. Thank you,

-Tavis

[shark]

Join now if you like

[eastside]

Thanks! I didn't record enough from last week to make it worthwhile, but this week I am - thus, I'll post up next week.

Thanks again