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Tor be or not Tor be Club 517 3rd - 9th February, 2020 (Read 9985 times)

tomtom

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Afternoon...

M: Work, Mad Volume after work - Bumped into Fat Boy Slim Fast which was unexpected (not seen him for ten years or so) and had a good yarn. Also had a really good session on the woody there. First time on it for 6-7 weeks and did a few things I'd not done before. Noticably stronger. RAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAHHHH! (irony emoticon please)

Tu: Stretching

We: Church on the way home. Do I have one of those please chat to me faces? Maybe best not answered.. Had three conversations with random strangers at the crag. Two dog walkers and one bloke on a £7k eMTB who talked alot about himself and then effortlessly whirred off into the distance. So long was his rambling that I cooled down and had to re-warm up. Still - they were all being friendly. Anyway despite being so good on Monday I was crap.. one floaty go on Gullivers Travels and the rest was turd.

Th: Great day out at Burbage du Nord with Lagers and later Dolly. Did some great easy problems down near Voyager etc.. and I enjoyed Yabadabadoo. Good times - lying in the sun drinking Dollys coffee. Then moved down to Monochrome etc... and tried a couple of the 7's on the flakey face. Did the SUPERB 6B/C along the top edge of that face - and kind of figured out how to do Flakey Pants Sika Cracker Sitter eliminate (or whatever its called - the easiest one) and then had to rush to get back to Manchester to pick the lad up from school... made it with 1 min to spare...

Fri: Family day... looked around a house...

Sa: MrsTT took the lad to a party and sent me out climbing. I went to the Wiltons. Tried really really hard but didnt manage to do what I really wanted to do :( Sent a text about 1:30 saying "how much time have I got" and got one back "take the rest of the day" - at which point I wished I had gone to the pass for the day :) Had a couple of hours at home to myself to relax and watch some films (good).

Su: Manc Depot with the Lad for RockTots. He climbed the best he has... He has trad bumbler written all over him... pottering around, traversing, yo-yo-ing, testing holds etc... most unlike most 3.5 year olds. When I left the place was already heaving....

Weight now consistently below 70kg (was 72 after Xmas) and I feel like I'm climbing really well on wooden boards but can't translate that outside. Ironically I usually have the opposite issue!

Also - on Sat, I put pinholes in every tip on my LH from a crimp. Its not a particularly nasty crimp (its 4-5mm or so, but not sharp) but I've never had several pinholes at once (they were all from sucessive attempts not one)... wonder if its anything to do with the TipJuice (tm) I've been putting on for the last couple of weeks (only twice a week)...


Will Hunt

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Tuesday - lamp sesh at Eldwick with Harry. Warmed up on a few things in the right bay - one was previously unrecorded and quite nice. Harry had a very good bash on the roofy thing there. Went round to Albatross and had a go. The top is steady but the start is impossible for me, I think. I put my feet on the footholds and got Harry to push me into position. With my body flat on the wall I can just about curl the fingertips of each hand onto the two holds that you reach between (open handed). Outlanked!
Repeated Racing Raymond which I remember being good, but I think this must be my favourite move anywhere. You paste your left foot on and swing up high to some nice flakes.
https://www.instagram.com/p/B8L_Rjcj9Vg/?igshid=1g6hmg1taazyu
Then over to Footlocker. Did it using some suspect but logical holds for the feet. Later found out this wasn't legit. Finished off with some tricky eliminates that Harry invented.

Sa - the highball train went to Brimham for a go on Tender Homecoming. We were all derailed by a suggested Font grade that was actually about accurate. Ben could have done it but goes into all body shake as soon as he's two moves up anything. It took us a while to suss how to get feet into the high pocket and by that point skin had been chewed a bit. I had one decent go going into the left hand undercut but it was sharp and when I fell off I found I had two split tips! Keen for a rematch at some point.

Then off to the prize. First go it felt piss but I got the sequence wrong and fell off just before the high break. Was completely ruined from that go and then just went backwards. Had a go getting into the high break but too powered out to do anything with it. Dave and Ben did it because they're shit friends. Disappointing as it's hard to get pads under these things if your mates have already done it. It felt about 7A/+ so should have gone really. I suppose having two taped tips didn't help  :boohoo: :boohoo: :boohoo:

Sunday - splashed about in the kids pool and then went to the cafe for a full English and pudding. The big weigh in tomorrow morning!

Will Hunt

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By the way, while Church Crag is the zeitgeist, what are the holds like on Gulliver's or one of the slightly easier things? Might have a day next Sunday. Skin friendly or not so thin that climbing taped will be a problem?

dunnyg

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how long does your skin take to grow?

Will Hunt

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Splitting to blood I could climb on comfy lime (like sport climbing probably) in a week, properly healed after 2.

dunnyg

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yetix

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M: ill, bed bound working from home all day.
T: ill, bed bound working from home all day.
W: still a little ill, but ventured to Craig Peniel, managed to do the Inkerman, inspired by Fiends video and it was pretty brilliant I'm not gonna lie, took longer than I would have liked it to have done, but worth the trip. Tried to do some Fingerboarding in the evening and felt far to spent to do anything of worth.
T: rest
F: weather looked mega so booked it off. Ventured to Lad Stones solo, what a crag! Warmed up on Hades Lair, before doing the low and left hand start fairly quickly. Went and did Underground Butler shortly afterwards, missed the pads for the 2nd move first go, then did from the 2nd move to the top before going from the bottom. Really enjoyed it. Went and tried Traci Lords which felt nails! Managed to do Black Cauldron though which I was pretty stoked about. Really want to go back for Stella, Warstarter and Traci Lords soon!
S: Felt pretty spent but ventured to Alsmcliffe for the first time, managed to do Flying Arete, Demon Wall Roof and Dophlin Belly Slap each within a few goes. Had a look at the Keel and Underhand, both looked like they'd suit me, so will go back for these soon.

Productive week after feeling like I've not been climbing well. Hope the weather clears on Wednesday and Sat so I can get out again before I go away next Sunday on my first non climbing trip in aeons!


duncan

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Tomtom: sounds like tt jr has his heart in the right place!

STG: enjoy climbing (when I get the chance); try hard three times a week.
MTG: embrace sport-climbing, RP 7b+; classic sea-cliff (or similar) E5 before 7.06.2020.
LTG: tbc


M - Westway routes: 35 mins of aerocap; shoulder strength: handstands, side planks, asymmetric press-ups, IsTsYs.
T - 10km brisk walking
W - Shoulder strength
T - Fingerboard ‘max.’ hangs (6 seconds at +5kg)
F - Shoulder strength, pull-ups (6x5), 9km brisk walking
S - Fingerboard ‘max.’ hangs (7 seconds at +5kg), Shoulder strength, 12km brisk walking.
S - Shoulder strength.

Week 2 of single parenting: no deaths, houses burnt down, or visits from social services so I’m counting it a success.

Not much climbing but some trying-hard and no injuries despite feeling a bit under the weather. Hanging 18mm edges with a small weight attached to me probably counts as some kind of finger strength progress. Clearly plenty of room for improvement.

Plan: more of this. 

Fiend

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W: still a little ill, but ventured to Craig Peniel, managed to do the Inkerman, inspired by Fiends video and it was pretty brilliant I'm not gonna lie, took longer than I would have liked it to have done, but worth the trip.
<3 nice

nai

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STG: Moonboard 7A, Depot 50 6B, Font 7C
2020 Lime, Grit and AN Other Font 7Cs.

M - Started at Stanton In to warm up.  Managed to top out Lean To at last, having been denied by green slime previously. Briefly tried the 6C prow, decent moves to ge the top then LOL/WTF at the mantel.
Off to main event at Rowtor, Chip Shop Mantel seemed dry at last so Yoghurt Hypnotist was on. Abbed it to clean out the gutter and brush the shelves which were still slightly damp.
Did YH second attempt then blew the CS mantel but managed to repeat it fourth go and scraped up the top.  Bit of anticlimax,  I was sure it was nails when I worked it out in October but felt soft today.
Core back home

T - nowt

W - Tor - Cave SS not a dry as hoped, first move not worth trying but refined and linked moves 2-4 into the stand. Hoped to link into the heel but never quite held the crimp on the stand first move. Slot was sub-par though so was happy with progress.  The way Cave Problem itself came together it might just be a matter of rocking up on the right day.
Had a quick play on Ben's and managed the cross through move for the first time. Just the knee release and kick move to do.
HI Core

Th

Fri - what a lovely day for a Plantation circuit, maybe see if Brad Pit might have become feasible after five or more years since last trying it...

Is pretty much what I thinking from waking to arriving, feeling slightly guilty, at The Tor.

Cave Problem even wetter than it had been on Wednesday. Not the right day... Suspected as much but you don't knew unless you go look.  Nearly left but Ben's has got me now, too.  Took a while but managed the knee release after reaching LH minging undercut crimp, then eventually the kick. Tried to link from initial kneebar but was too deep into the session (or its just too hard for me  :devangel:).
 
Lesg - OH squat, front squat, upper part of DL, few pistols.

S rest

S - Split a cuticle on Friday, after trying a warm up decided against climbing or even hanging on it so just a conditioning set:
 
fast pullups
TRX:
Low row
Pressup
Fly/T & reverse
Y & reverse
Introduced Archer pressups
LVL sits
Corey "I" walkouts
Bat crunches




Steve R

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By the way, while Church Crag is the zeitgeist, what are the holds like on Gulliver's or one of the slightly easier things? Might have a day next Sunday. Skin friendly or not so thin that climbing taped will be a problem?
If your skin wasn't up to Gulliver's (bit crimpy but not ratty for lime), reckon the shield problems + the other traversey links would be fine with buggered skin - big moves on big holds sort of thing.  Would be keen to see you pay a visit there, unprecedented downgrading potential  :punk:

Will Hunt

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THEN WHAT ARE WE WAITING FOR?!?!
Thanks for the beta. I called in once on the way back from a session at Anston to see what it was like. Had a play on the shield and it felt very frustrating - like a very percentagey slap into a good hold. Will see how the skin is next weekend.

shark

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11.6 160.3 average up 0.5lbs. Must. Do. Better

M.

T. Noon. Tor of course - never in question! Low humidity, breezy - connies! What a change from Friday. Just me then Andy H turned up later. THFML x2. Decided to precede the first move of the “new” section with an extra foot move so I had to set up and wasn’t just pulling on and throwing for the crimp. Managed to get to crimp and move off it twice - first time getting all the way to doing the kick move and connecting with the niche and second time falling off setting up for kick. Happy with that. After that tired so tried from second move in (of new bit ie starting stretched out with LH in pocket and RH on crimp) and rewarded with linking all the way past cross thru and in to THFML falling off the lurch which is 9 moves in total (out of 17). Felt like a breakthrough link as I find the cross through really hard and getting through it after the preceding two hard moves when tired exceeded expectations.
Evening. Recruitment hangs. DB cleans.

W.

T. More Tor. Noon. Beautiful day. Tor. Kris and Zips there. More seepage than tues weirdly considering it hadn’t been raining. THFML x2. Added a further foot move to precede the first move of the “new section” so making two foot moves before throwing for the crimp. Managed to do this and get to crimp and move off it twice first time not getting much further then second time took myself by surprise getting foot on niche - relapsed into starting old sequence before correcting myself and setting up properly to do cross through and nearly got it tickling the pinch Only other link of note was repeating Tuesdays link at the end of the session going from second move in (of new bit ie starting stretched out with LH in pocket and RH on crimp) and in to THFML falling off the lurch again. Between goes quizzed Zips about the history. Seems it was Bashers project before he passed it over to Ben who did it in 20 minutes.

F.

S. Had planned to have a big day of climbing and training but woke up still feeling broken especially shoulders.
Noon. Went on systems board and did benchmarks and managed new hard version of throw move twice. Had one go on PE/AnCap problem then failed on second attempt so called it. Clearly needed an extra rest day. Hey ho. Eve Friends over for dinner. Excessive eating and drinking

S.

Came within a whisker of linking the whole ‘new’ section on Ben’s which is certainly hardest piece of climbing I’ve done to date The physical effort on each go feels like doing a deadlift because it hammers my core so much. Feels like I’ve strained something in right shoulder probably from doing and attempting throw move. I suspect that the wheels will be falling off the wagon soon requiring an easy week.

Kamikaze mission to Ramshaw tomorrow. Think Nick has gone stir crazy.
« Last Edit: February 10, 2020, 10:22:14 am by shark »

Footwork

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THEN WHAT ARE WE WAITING FOR?!?!
Thanks for the beta. I called in once on the way back from a session at Anston to see what it was like. Had a play on the shield and it felt very frustrating - like a very percentagey slap into a good hold. Will see how the skin is next weekend.

You'll be fine on Gulliver's with taped tips. Do you want the easy beta though?  ;)

Will Hunt

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DM me, bbz

HarryBD

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Evening,

M - 30min lunchtime run, canal shut so up to Heptonstall which tired the legs out a tad. Max hangs in the evening, 6x10s -4kg felt more doable than last week. Progress is good.

T - Lamps at Eldwick with Will. Warmed up on some crumbly stuff. Got close on a roof dyno. Then got on Stenna arête 6B+ which took some figuring out but got there in the end. Got out the quarry and onto the natural block and enjoyed scaring myself on the f3!!!s not sure if the grades were jokes or I couldn’t see the holds... flashed Huntsman 6A and then got nowhere on some harder but much cooler eliminates.

W - Lamps at Shipley Glen. Came with the sole intention of trying Manson’s Wall. Warmed up on the stuff next to Red Baron inc. flash of Amalgam 6A. Got the beta figured out but ran out of power and skin so resolved to come back ASAP.

T - Forgot my kit for a lunch run so didn’t do any exercise

F - As above but with added food. Did go to laser tag for a colleagues leaving do which got the HR up a bit... Restrained myself at the pub and only had non alcoholic beers including a nice wheat beer. T total until I get my lardy arse under 80kg. Can’t wait!

S - Walk at Malham while my girlfriend (Lily) did a photo shoot for a couple. Played around with my new camera. Put the Ire-Wal game on then thought f - that, conditions are mint. Went to the glen with Lily, warmed up on Parker bloc eliminates. Pulled on Parker which I’ve not managed before. Main event ready to siege Manson’s into oblivion. Got up it first go of the session, felt light as hell and the crimps just held onto me is the only way I could describe it. Amazing feeling to climb like that. https://www.instagram.com/p/B8W9DsIlam3tCpREqiVUWFK735ZIRIZ7ZCNH7s0/?igshid=88wh8mh8zz5a

S - Hid from the weather in City Bloc. Intended to do the comp problems but couldn’t be bothered and wanted to practice steep stuff as this is a weakness. Few problems dispatched then finished off on the board. Not climbed on a steep board before and think it’s got a lot to give me.

Class week and down to 80.8 kg so needle in the right direction there.

tomtom

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THEN WHAT ARE WE WAITING FOR?!?!
Thanks for the beta. I called in once on the way back from a session at Anston to see what it was like. Had a play on the shield and it felt very frustrating - like a very percentagey slap into a good hold. Will see how the skin is next weekend.

You'll be fine on Gulliver's with taped tips. Do you want the easy beta though?  ;)

Cmon - spill the beanz... :)

Will Hunt

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Great effort on Manson's, Harry. Small holds on that!

Footwork

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THEN WHAT ARE WE WAITING FOR?!?!
Thanks for the beta. I called in once on the way back from a session at Anston to see what it was like. Had a play on the shield and it felt very frustrating - like a very percentagey slap into a good hold. Will see how the skin is next weekend.

You'll be fine on Gulliver's with taped tips. Do you want the easy beta though?  ;)

Cmon - spill the beanz... :)

Beta alert

NSFW  :
Instead of getting the gaston with your left hand before the throw to the pockets, flip the left pinch to an undercut, get the then gaston as a right sidepull and then go again with your right hand off the undercut. Much steadier and only slightly harder set up (from memory you need to build your feet a bit).

tommytwotone

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Blimey, Hunt's gonna have a field day at Church. Even I reckon there are a couple of soft touches there and I'm a weak midget.

spidermonkey09

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M - board session at the wall. Climbed OK but burned out pretty quick due to not resting enough. Bicep felt a bit tweaky from the max hangs the day before.

T - rest. Felt broken.

W - Back in Leeds for work so went to Depot in the evening. Good session rolling around doing some purples. Brief play on the board, could still do a few things on it at least. Stopped when I started to feel my arm playing up.

T - rest.

F - rest.

S - Peak. Started at Burbage West so Scott could box off WSS. In the meantime I did The Nose fairly easily with the short person beta; brilliant problem this way. Had a few goes on Ron-Side but thought it unreasonably reachy so sacked it; good option for the resident lanky downgrader. After a rest headed off to Higgar to try Piss/Shit. Did Piss quite quickly and a quick beta check meant I started getting through the roof on Shit. Powered out several times on the last move but pleased how quickly I got there. Also flashed the alleged 7A to the left which was good but either a shit eliminate or not 7A. Headed round to try Witness the Gritness in gale force winds and eventually got there; good problem that climbs like limestone and is just the right height. Scott and Rob turned up having both done WSS in the interim   :strongbench: Headed back to the cars but Rob was keen to try Mermaid so joined him with a lamp. Surprisingly flashed it in mint conditions which was a surprise as it was supposed to be desperate. Tried the 6c+ arete and predictably got shutdown for 20 mins. Eventually whaled over the top and called it. Great long session; 5 7s in a day constitutes good mileage for me. Keen to go back and finish off Shit.

S - rest. Felt broken.

Good week although annoyingly no max hangs looking back, will have to rectify that this week.

tomtom

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Blimey, Hunt's gonna have a field day at Church. Even I reckon there are a couple of soft touches there and I'm a weak midget.

Albatross good at crimpy wall climbing downgrades shocker..

Quite fickle on the conditions at Church - a good day can make all the difference...

Bradders

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Beta alert

Missing one of the best moves at the crag doing it this way though!

Will Hunt

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Albatross

Went round to Albatross and had a go ... Outlanked!

Please. This is very hurtful. Given the recent confirmation of my meagre wingspan, I would prefer to be called a Condor.

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Not a great week for me, lingering illness has left me feeling pretty tired and unmotivated.

Mon  - Nothing
Tue - 6a x 4 then 6b x 4 to warm up then a work a 4 x 4 workout on the following 6b+, 6b+, hard 6b and 6c+.
Wed - Nothing
Thur - Board session, 8 problems probably all V3 - top end V4 done twice each as the board has a mirror function all quite long as 10 - 15 moves each. Worked a project of mine on crimps which I'd guess to be about V5 (set by somebody else) normally this would be my style but the moves are quite wide, got 2 moves further than before.
Fri - Nothing
Sat - Nothing
Sun - Board session, volume ish warm up as before then worked aforementioned project and reliably getting to the penultimate move so good progress, also worked a harder problem featuring big moves on pinches and smaller feet probably V6/7 managed 3 more moves than before however get completely gassed when I add the first move.

Looking back between the auto belay sets and the board sessions its all a bit endurance based, I'll need to add a bit more strength based board sessions in and probably do my 4 x 4 on a lead wall with more 6C and above routes as I've very quickly got to the point that the current sets don't feel like they have the requisite pump factor.

Hopefully I'll have a better week this week ahead of a 5 day trip to the Peak from Saturday which based on the current forecast will involve more plastic pulling and art galleries with my misses than climbing...ideally I'd like to get Weedkiller and "What would Jerry do?" done as I feel halfway fit at the moment.

 

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