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Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b. (Read 32751 times)

SA Chris

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#25 Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
February 07, 2020, 09:00:37 am
Remember reading once that Sharma said Mutation was impossible for him; accurate or apocryphal?


Did he say why?

Doylo

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#26 Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
February 07, 2020, 09:24:12 am
Remember reading once that Sharma said Mutation was impossible for him; accurate or apocryphal?


Did he say why?

Far too fat. Definitely a route for feathers.

James Malloch

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#27 Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
February 07, 2020, 09:29:12 am
Rainman will be repeated before Mutation in my (complete arse on armchair) opinion.

Aren’t a few people close to Mutation? Pete & Will?

SA Chris

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#28 Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
February 07, 2020, 10:16:30 am
Remember reading once that Sharma said Mutation was impossible for him; accurate or apocryphal?


Did he say why?

Fuck, counts me out too, was going for the onsight this year.

Far too fat. Definitely a route for feathers.

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#29 Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
February 07, 2020, 11:38:57 am
I think it was because he realised it would require putting some time in and the hour he'd already spent at Raven tor was more than enough.

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#30 Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
February 07, 2020, 12:23:40 pm

Rainman will be repeated before Mutation in my (complete arse on armchair) opinion.

Aren’t a few people close to Mutation? Pete & Will?

Not Sure how close Bosi is or was, he gets to try very rarely, I do know he thought the crux was nails though, mutterings about harder than Practice of the Wild.

Pete hasn't done the boulder in one yet, how hard do you have to climb to get there? So not that close I guess that would mean, to be close surely you have to be on redpoint? He's a monster though and his drive to do something once it's on his radar is totally unrelenting.

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#31 Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
February 07, 2020, 01:01:58 pm

Rainman will be repeated before Mutation in my (complete arse on armchair) opinion.

Aren’t a few people close to Mutation? Pete & Will?

Not Sure how close Bosi is or was, he gets to try very rarely, I do know he thought the crux was nails though, mutterings about harder than Practice of the Wild.

Pete hasn't done the boulder in one yet, how hard do you have to climb to get there? So not that close I guess that would mean, to be close surely you have to be on redpoint? He's a monster though and his drive to do something once it's on his radar is totally unrelenting.

Ah fair enough. I was chatting to someone at the wall who’d said Pete was getting close. Be ace when it does get a repeat!

remus

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#32 Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
February 07, 2020, 01:05:22 pm

Not Sure how close Bosi is or was, he gets to try very rarely, I do know he thought the crux was nails though, mutterings about harder than Practice of the Wild.

Pete hasn't done the boulder in one yet, how hard do you have to climb to get there? So not that close I guess that would mean, to be close surely you have to be on redpoint? He's a monster though and his drive to do something once it's on his radar is totally unrelenting.

I think Im right in saying Will was getting to the crux pretty reliably but hasn't stuck it yet. He's done the boulder in isolation though. From memory you climb most of evolution to get to the boulder problem.

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#33 Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
February 07, 2020, 04:38:58 pm
I believe the Sharma quote is "I will never climb this route". Open to interpretation.

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#34 Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
February 16, 2020, 06:08:51 pm
I believe the Sharma quote is "I will never climb this route". Open to interpretation.

Does this mean that it's an enormous sandbag, probably closer to hard 9a+ than 9a?

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#35 Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
February 16, 2020, 09:31:01 pm
Or its really grim and he has no desire to ever do it.

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#36 Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
February 16, 2020, 10:46:30 pm
Grimness is in the eye of the beholder

duncan

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#37 Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
January 31, 2021, 05:37:27 pm
If I’ve interpreted Alizée Dufraisse’s IG story correctly, Will Bosi has climbed the project right of La Capella (Last Night 9a+? in the POD-Andrada guidebook).

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#38 Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
January 31, 2021, 09:48:35 pm
I love how Bosi has stopped posting after taking some stick for his ‘indoor climbing training trip’, but he keeps on getting tagged by other people 🤣

remus

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#39 Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
January 31, 2021, 10:06:10 pm
Juicy. Can't see anything in Alizée's IG story though, I guess it may have joined the disappearing posts?

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#40 Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
February 01, 2021, 08:18:25 pm
Juicy. Can't see anything in Alizée's IG story though, I guess it may have joined the disappearing posts?

Footage from WB on the first 10m or so of the Last Night line disappeared. It looked as you would expect a short bouldery 9-something.

It is a shame he feels he has to keep quiet about this. I have no issue with someone based in Cornudella climbing 5 miles up the road, presuming he travelled to Spain when it was permitted.

Stu Littlefair

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#41 Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
February 01, 2021, 08:51:17 pm
... presuming he travelled to Spain when it was permitted.

And therein lies the rub.

Ru

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#42 Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
February 01, 2021, 10:15:27 pm
There are also a surprising number of instagram posts showing people who don't live in wales, climbing in wales.

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#43 Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
February 02, 2021, 07:38:23 am
And other climbers (inc those with sponsors) clearly climbing away from their local area - climbing in groups. I’ve started unfollowing as it’s wound me up (sorry - thread hijack)

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#44 Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
February 02, 2021, 10:52:06 am
It rubbed me a bit in the first lockdown, people in Yorkshire one day, Wales the next.  One particular famous North Wales climber was at home one day and then a few days later complaining about rule breakers in the Lake District, which I found peculiar, glass houses and all.

I'm inclined to care less about it these days though. Upon reflection I'm not sure what part of it really annoys me. I've broken the rules too so who is the arbiter of what amount of rule breaking is morally fine. Surely only a person can judge for themselves. I'm under the impression that all of it is pretty minimal (if any) risk of spreading infection, and I don't care that "it's the rule/law so just do it" sort of bullshit. So maybe I'm just being a jealous twat and that's not a quality I want to identify with, so I let it wash over. Or try to.

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#45 Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
February 02, 2021, 11:36:41 am
It rubbed me a bit in the first lockdown, people in Yorkshire one day, Wales the next.  One particular famous North Wales climber was at home one day and then a few days later complaining about rule breakers in the Lake District, which I found peculiar, glass houses and all.

I'm inclined to care less about it these days though. Upon reflection I'm not sure what part of it really annoys me. I've broken the rules too so who is the arbiter of what amount of rule breaking is morally fine. Surely only a person can judge for themselves. I'm under the impression that all of it is pretty minimal (if any) risk of spreading infection, and I don't care that "it's the rule/law so just do it" sort of bullshit. So maybe I'm just being a jealous twat and that's not a quality I want to identify with, so I let it wash over. Or try to.

I agree with all of this. If anyone can convince me that driving to Boulder somewhere (after fuelling up locally and taking all your own food) is increasing transmission risk then I am happy to change my opinion. Otherwise I really don’t see an issue with driving and climbing. I havent myself but this is simply out of respect to the wishes of my partner. If it was just me I certainly would

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#46 Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
March 29, 2021, 07:14:27 am
Bosi breaks cover in Spain with a report of 9b+, 9b, and 9a FAs, and 9a+ and 2 x 9a repeats in Margalef. Details on 8a.nu.

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« Last Edit: March 29, 2021, 08:27:53 am by Bradders »

remus

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#48 Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
March 29, 2021, 08:39:42 am
That's quite the ticklist! Good to see the new generation taking over from Steve.

ed. Just finished updating the list and have a few stats for you. If the grade sticks, this makes King Capella only the 5th route in the world at 9b+ and Will the 6th climber in the world to climb 9b+ or harder. Obviously the first brit to climb 9b+ and first brit to FA a 9b+.
« Last Edit: March 29, 2021, 08:51:25 am by remus »

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#49 Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
March 29, 2021, 08:49:19 am
Bizzare watching Will on BBC breakfast (and discussion of Beastmakers).

 

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