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Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b. (Read 32719 times)

Teaboy

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#50 Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
March 29, 2021, 09:03:08 am
Staggering! Does anyone know what sectors these are on 8a.nu is pretty detail free

Fiend

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#51 Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
March 29, 2021, 09:06:11 am
That's pretty cool. Perfecto Mundo before the ondra next?

36chambers

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#52 Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
March 29, 2021, 09:14:33 am
Bizzare watching Will on BBC breakfast (and discussion of Beastmakers).

@7:50 from today's show.

I found it funny how as soon as they finished the interview they went straight into a lockdown restrictions segment.


teestub

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#53 Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
March 29, 2021, 09:16:11 am
Bizzare watching Will on BBC breakfast (and discussion of Beastmakers).

Whaaat? Was that today? He’s obviously got a good PR person!

Quite the holiday haul.

Be interesting to see how this ‘training trip’ improves his World Cup performance!

Edit just seen 36C post  :lol:

Bradders

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#54 Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
March 29, 2021, 09:34:17 am
Bizzare watching Will on BBC breakfast (and discussion of Beastmakers).

@7:50 from today's show.

I found it funny how as soon as they finished the interview they went straight into a lockdown restrictions segment.

Haha brilliant!

Teaboy

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#55 Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
March 29, 2021, 09:54:59 am
Staggering! Does anyone know what sectors these are on 8a.nu is pretty detail free

This clears things up a bit:
https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2021/03/first_ascent_of_king_capella_9b+_by_will_bosi-72733

petejh

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#56 Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
March 29, 2021, 11:41:09 am
Bizzare watching Will on BBC breakfast (and discussion of Beastmakers).

Whaaat? Was that today? He’s obviously got a good PR person!

Quite the holiday haul.

Be interesting to see how this ‘training trip’ improves his World Cup performance!

Edit just seen 36C post  :lol:

Not a climbing holiday.. according to the report it's training for the coming season of indoor comps, by hanging out in Spain for 3 months redpointing grade 9s. :lol:
Although GB team climbers do have access to indoor training facilities as part of elite sport rules for this very purpose..
It's also a 'longer term campaign of preparation for the next Olympic cycle'... :lol:
..following which logic, everybody else's lockdown-dodging climbing excursions over the past 12 months are their 'longer-term campaign of preparation for the next <insert selfish self-justification here> - grit season, Pembroke Easter trip, Malham campaign, E5 o/s or 'that route I'd love to do in the Dolomites one day when I'm going well'..

The report on ukc reads like Bosi has hired Dominic Cummins' press agent. I wish he'd drop the bullshit PR and just call it what it is  - a climbing holiday during lockdown, when we aren't supposed to be travelling. People aren't stupid.

Great to see standards rising though.
« Last Edit: March 29, 2021, 11:47:44 am by petejh »

gme

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#57 Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
March 29, 2021, 11:47:58 am
Thats not true though Pete, he went to Spain back in December and has stayed there so hes been following the rules of not travelling and hes now isolating on return. If he followed the Spanish rules when he was there hes done nothing wrong as far as i can see.

Back on track. Amazing effort Will, properly world class performance that puts him up there with some of the very best. Changing of the guard from Steve i guess and also confirms the future of climbing is with comp climbers thread.

petejh

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#58 Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
March 29, 2021, 11:51:15 am
If that's the case then fair enough, perhaps I'm being unfair. It's not the impression I get from others making trips to Spain and elsewhere over the last few months..

abarro81

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#59 Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
March 29, 2021, 11:55:33 am
Impressive stuff.
However, Pete is right, Gav is wrong, and calling it a training trip is a load of bollocks. More importantly, Will's grammar and spelling is terrible (see his insta) so deduct 2 grades.
« Last Edit: March 29, 2021, 12:05:41 pm by abarro81 »

Dexter

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#60 Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
March 29, 2021, 12:34:07 pm
Staggering! Does anyone know what sectors these are on 8a.nu is pretty detail free

This clears things up a bit:
https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2021/03/first_ascent_of_king_capella_9b+_by_will_bosi-72733

Where it says he's the first to climb 9b+ didn't Ondra think Rainman was 9b+? What's more recognised a 9b+ FA or a proposed upgrade from one of (if not the) best climber in the world.

Also that's one impressive tick list.

jwi

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#61 Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
March 29, 2021, 12:45:46 pm
You cannot upgrade a route you haven't done, even if you are Adam Ondra.

Dexter

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#62 Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
March 29, 2021, 12:47:25 pm
Fair point

abarro81

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#63 Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
March 29, 2021, 12:47:51 pm
didn't Ondra think Rainman was 9b+?
Got a link? https://steve-mcclure.com/articles/136-9b-or-not-9b-that-is-the-question suggests Ondra thought ~9b would be about right from his play on it.

remus

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#64 Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
March 29, 2021, 12:57:02 pm
What Barrows said. Im pretty sure Ondra thought 9b, maybe in this vid? (I havent watched it through to check)



Ignoring any questionable travel decisions, I think it's totally fair to call it a training trip. He's a professional climber practicing his sport. I know I'd definitely be climbing a lot better if I spent 3 months in spain vs 3 months on a woody.

teestub

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#65 Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
March 29, 2021, 01:24:31 pm

Ignoring any questionable travel decisions, I think it's totally fair to call it a training trip. He's a professional climber practicing his sport. I know I'd definitely be climbing a lot better if I spent 3 months in spain vs 3 months on a woody.

I think if he’d had sole use of Ratho for the last three months and imported a world class setting team to keep him interested, I don’t think anyone would be batting an eyelid. Likewise if he’d said ‘I’m a professional rock climber so I’m travelling to try some hard rock climbs’.

abarro81

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#66 Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
March 29, 2021, 01:53:34 pm
Ignoring any questionable travel decisions, I think it's totally fair to call it a training trip. He's a professional climber practicing his sport. I know I'd definitely be climbing a lot better if I spent 3 months in spain vs 3 months on a woody.

You can call it what you want, but it strikes me as a poor attempt at spin to pre-empt criticism given the context... although I think it being "work" only solves the problem of one of the two border restrictions anyway. The "work" thing for pro climbers is bollocks anyway - climbers are "influencers" or comp athletes; the latter don't need to climb rock and the former means anyone getting free stuff ever can claim that anything resulting in an insta post is "work" to evade restrictions. Pete sounds like he's like me - I don't really mind people having broken the rules, but lame attempts at justifications (or outright lies) annoy me (although I probably can't create a good argument to justify my own stance on that!).

gme

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#67 Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
March 29, 2021, 02:15:36 pm
Jealousy might be a good one. ;)

Whatthedickens

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#68 Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
March 29, 2021, 02:33:24 pm
Will is a pro climber, it was a work trip. He also works outside with 1 belaying colleague so the risk of spreading anything was pretty low. It would have been a bit crap for his sponsors if he'd just have holed up under his board for months. I'm glad he did it, he's now elevated himself to the absolute top ranks.If the rope access contractors had managed to secure an essential maintenance job in Spain, I'm sure they'd have sent guys out.

abarro81

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#69 Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
March 29, 2021, 02:51:52 pm
Will is a pro climber, it was a work trip. He also works outside with 1 belaying colleague so the risk of spreading anything was pretty low. It would have been a bit crap for his sponsors if he'd just have holed up under his board for months. I'm glad he did it, he's now elevated himself to the absolute top ranks.If the rope access contractors had managed to secure an essential maintenance job in Spain, I'm sure they'd have sent guys out.

You did just miss the entire point about the nature of sponsorship and "work" in the age of instagram, and the fact that it wouldn't solve one of the border rule issues anyway (I kept that in small font earlier for a reason, but if others are going to drag this out I can't be bothered changing font every time). But nice try.

Also
If the rope access contractors had managed to secure an essential maintenance job in Spain, I'm sure they'd have sent guys out.
is some bewilderingly false equivalence.

« Last Edit: March 29, 2021, 02:59:26 pm by abarro81 »

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#70 Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
March 29, 2021, 02:59:53 pm
But Barrows, there are a few climbers like Seb Bouin who don't do comps and rely on the outdoor stuff. I dont understand why not doing anything outdoors for months wouldn't be bad for the profile and hence sponsors. I'm assuming Will gets paid so why would months without anything newsworthy be good? Unless you think that social media means that they don't have to do actual rock climbing?

andy popp

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#71 Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
March 29, 2021, 03:10:38 pm
8a.nu report updated

'Alex Megos comments "I tried two of this FA's there and they are hard! Both of them 9b for sure. The one he thought was easier I couldn't do one move. On "King Capella" I did all the moves, but linking then will be very hard. I'd be super psyched to go and try to repeat his routes at some point! 😁 Very strong lad 💪🏼."'

Stu Littlefair

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#72 Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
March 29, 2021, 03:20:01 pm
Speaking as someone who has been trying and failing to get out to Spain for legitimate work purposes on a project that can only be done by my team and that is impairing operations of a telescope that costs in excess of £50,000 per night to run - the idea that climbers are somehow exempt from the travel restrictions that were in place is :shit:

Will’s ticklist is proper next-gen stuff that shows a genuine leap forward for UK climbing.

I think it was a mistake for him to travel out, but we all make mistakes. Like Alex, it’s the excruciatingly carefully worded PR track-covering like “ Will, having complied with covid restrictions during his stay in Spain, is now back in the UK” that winds me up. I can’t imagine my grumpy disapproval will take too much of the shine off Will’s ticklist for him.

abarro81

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#73 Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
March 29, 2021, 03:20:33 pm
There's lots of overlapping things here:
1. Flouting restrictions:
Less said the better

2. Sounding like a load of PR spin bollocks:
I'm with Pete, especially when it comes to someone writing this up as training for comps (as teestub said)

3. Do you need to travel to work as a pro climber:
Pro climbers are basically influencers nowadays - they don't get paid to climb, they get paid to have followers, likes, "engagement", etc. You might need to tweak your "content model" but not going climbing in Europe for a while wouldn't necessarily reduce followers (just look at Shauna). It's certainly not essential. Also what would your cutoff be? 10k/yr? 20/yr? 2?? Free stuff? perhaps some "volunteering" ;) (I think this was probably aimed at the likes of Megos using the "work" tag to avoid German quarantine rules, but has crossover to the broader point: https://www.instagram.com/p/CJbem_KhtD1/?hl=en)

Will Hunt

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#74 Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
March 29, 2021, 03:27:13 pm
Sign of the times. The PR spin is just there to try and head off the moaning pissbags who scour the world for anything that might be deemed a COVID infraction. A baby with croup in a supermarket, a child stroking a cat that isn't theirs, somebody doing yoga in a park: all met with screeches of outrage from the miserable self-appointed marshalls that we're now plagued by.


Why the Bosi beef? Nobody batted an eyelid when Molly Thompson-Smith came back from Frankenjura and then (presumably) paid for a test so she could hit the grit soon after arriving.
(I've no problem with MTS, just thought the inconsistency was worth pointing out.)

 

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