[abarro81]

Yeah, new beta has changed things. My point was just that if we use the grades that people are normally using for things, there's a fair spread. Off the top of my head, with the caveat that this is IMO, though I've tried to pick things where I suspect the consensus would agree:
[if the following looks weird try a wider screen - I wrote it like a table before realising that was a crap idea]

Soft(ish)                 Normal(ish)       Hard(ish)
Waddage               Chimes              Baby chimes
Keen
Fat lip                                               Weeding the lip
Mecca                    Mecca ext.
                               Kaabah
                                                        Devo, Evo
                              Crucifixion
Toilet
Call of Nature
                                                        Most of the RHS routes
Bens @ 7c+          Bens @ 7c        Bens @ 7b+
Weedkiller @7b                              Weedkiller @ 7a+

On the whole I don't think it's too out of keeping with other crags, especially in the UK, and  especially since grading on short routes always becomes a bit more random (like with boulders) as it can get v specific.

That said, there are some things I find ridiculous, e.g. I think PUTP is about 8c but I know that's just me sucking on it and some find it fine

[shark]

Soft(ish)                 Normal(ish)       Hard(ish)

Bens @ 7c+          Bens @ 7c        Bens @ 7b+

 

2 kneebars, LH exit - soft 7C ? (route 8a+)
1 kneebar, LH exit - normal 7C ? (route 8a+)
No kneebars, LH exit - hard 7C easy 7C+ ? (route 8a+/b)
No kneebars, original finish - 7C+ ? (route 8b)
Extension, no kneebars, original finish - 8A (route 8b+)

[tomtom]

Has no-one reversed Bens yet? #justsayin

[shark]

Has no-one reversed Bens yet? #justsayin

https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,29563.0.html

[tomtom]

But that doesnt start at the top of Too Hard for Shark Leach and reverse Bens though...

[cowboyhat]

I'm not sure the tor is disproportionately hard compared to most places. Like most crags it has some soft things and some hard thing...

Sort of missing the point, I wasn't necessarily carping about stiff grades though there obviously are quite a few.

More the overall experience, you'll have to pull hard on a small hold, it can be tough on the ego etc.

[haydn jones]

But that doesnt start at the top of Too Hard for Shark Leach and reverse Bens though...

I did Ben's there and back did the original finish then reverse down too hard and back along Ben's. So I guess I still didn't start from the finishing jug of too hard.

[Fiend]

Belly Of The Beast into Mutation shimmy right and plod up Waddage?? Almost as good as the Ali Bawbag cave...

[tomtom]

But that doesnt start at the top of Too Hard for Shark Leach and reverse Bens though...

I did Ben's there and back did the original finish then reverse down too hard and back along Ben's. So I guess I still didn't start from the finishing jug of too hard.

😁 i was just teasing Sharkus

[nai]

All those new starters at the wall, psyched to manage a 4+, gazing up in awe at the overhanging walls, wondering how they could ever do that.
If only they knew what they have to look forward to, what they're dreaming of is big cliffs, mountains, the sun on their backs. But if they really are super keen, try really hard and become quite good they'll end up aspiring to climb an arse drag in a dripping cave in December. 
And then do it backwards.

[tomtom]