[spidermonkey09]

I need to sort out some niggles (bicep tendon, right shoulder impingement and persistent neck strain/stiffness on the right side) and improve my endurance.

I was trying to keep count of these reading the post! That 8a+ looks great.

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - garage, back3 front3 on 14 mm edge +30 kg x7. Landmine barbell work. Pull ups. Trap bar DL finisher 30" style.
Tue - rest.
Wed - trap bar DL, pull ups, overhead carry circuit x10. Brutal.
Thu - glutes, one leg RDL x10; abs, bar: feet to ceiling x5; all x5. T bar rows, 20x3. Clean and press 30" finisher 30 kg.
Fri - boxing bag.
Sat - ab wheel, push ups, legs, press ups.
Sun - light boxing bag.

[AMorris]

First 2020 post on here, since I have been a bit injured and dealing with my PhD coming to an end, along with christmas etc. All came at the right time really, since any one of those things would have meant time off climbing. Three birds one stone and all that!

During my break I have been doing a decent amount of low weight shoulder exercises (I's, Y's and T's) with high reps to try and build the small muscles, which are oft ignored.

I have had a hard time getting my strength back after a compounding A3 pulley injury, which was as a result of training for a minging crimp line. Turns out I was crimping too much (the limit exists!). Been doing a decent amount of fingerboarding for active recovery, which I always feel is a bit more controllable and safe than climbing when you are recovering. It has finally started kicking in, thank god, cos I was strongly considering benching climbing for a while

M - First climb in over a month, felt incredibly pessimistic after the last few hang sessions. Weak as a kitten, could barely haul myself up stuff I used to cruise for a warm up previously. Contact strength completely non-existent. A disappointing session, but it still felt good to get my boots on and cover myself in chalk.

T - Rest, wine, and self pity.

W - Light core and small muscle shoulder stuff. IYT 3x10 each, 6kg dumbbells. 5x10 rollouts.

T - Hangboarding. Piteous, could barely hang the low rung for more than 5s half crimp and dragging. 6mm micros felt hideous, but hangable when I decided it was 90% pain tolerance.

F - Rest

S - Watched DTs new film, and something clicked. Upped my game to the full fingers, arms, core hang session, and everything felt much better. Even the micros felt easier. One arm half crimp was back to 80% hang time, same with dragging. Core felt decent. Arms much better. Maybe I wont sell everything and flounce off after all.

S - Rest.

Some progress, lending me small amounts of optimism. I am even dreaming about my projects again...

[cheque]

Good 'un Spidermonkey- I was photographong some lads trying WSS on Saturday afternoon and saw what I now realise was your chalk going all the way to the top.

You missed a classic Superbowl Coops. It's harder for Rugby lovers to get into American Football as they're superficially similar but otherwise completely different sports but it's worth making the effort to get over that. My other half (fan of both types of rugby since childhood) was deeply skeptical about the NFL but is equaly passionate about it now. She tells me that the Superbowl was a much more enjoyable watch than Sunday's rugby! It's probably a little easier for Brits to get into from the more light-hearted BBC coverage but you do have the advantage of being able to watch more than a couple of full games a season and not have to stay up 'til 4AM to see the Superbowl.

[Footwork]

Topless dude with a fish eye video camera, planted right in front of the board on a tripod, filming himself trying a problem, so not knowing any others dickhead here wandered in and dispatched with the flash. He didn't look best pleased.

I'd take burning off a London bellend over a brace of Caley highballs any day.

In this situation, no matter how hard / tall short / whatever you found it, everyone would completely have your back when you gave it the big downgrade 

How is this any different to Coops, Jack Pal, Turnip and a load of others filming themselves on a board for instagram? If I didn't know Coops I'd have though he was a bit of a 

I am guilty of enjoying a good burn off though. Carnage in font, Italian guy no where near, "excuse me can I have quick
go..."

[SA Chris]

It's a public board??

[dunnyg]

I'd argue, whoever you are, if you are filming yourself on a board for instagram, then you are at least a bit of a knob. 

[shark]

Give the guy a break. We don’t know why he was filming himself and even if it was for Instagram so what?

Malc in “Splinter” best thing ever, Joe Bloggs sharing something with his Moonboard mates is a knob? Come on

[yetix]

Why?

To me calling some a knob on over something someone is motivated about sounds of the behaviour of a knob.

The weather in the UK is wack, if someone is happy to have done something hard on a board and wants people who choose to follow them to see then how is that the behaviour of a knob?

[Bradders]

I am guilty of enjoying a good burn off though. Carnage in font, Italian guy no where near, "excuse me can I have quick
go..."

It was very much the burning off element I enjoyed.

Although to set the scene, it was one of these (or very similar):

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B074VW233J/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_d9xoEbBR3HYHB

Set on a head height tripod, right slap bang square in front of the board (as in, if you took a big cut you'd kick it over).

Nothing wrong with filming yourself on a board, and I've done so myself, but the positioning of it was all just a bit brazen and obnoxious on a public board in a busy wall, in my opinion.

[dunnyg]

Splinter is boss, though arguably he wasn't filming himself, which is slightly different?

Maybe it is a nobish thing to say  . I've re-written this a few times, but it is hard to write much without jumping to conclusions about motivation. I suppose if people want to watch it, and you want to film it, go for it, whatever floats your boat! Though I would question why it floated my boat?

I've made shit videos of me climbing stuff outside, though only because a mate filmed it as he was going to do the route too. Originally I reasoned that it was so other people could get psyched for the route, but the video quality/editing was so poor I doubt it motivated anyone. Looking back I was mainly doing that for ego boosting reasons (it was a hard route for me), which doesn't seem like a good reason to do stuff?

(ps, i never claimed to not be a knob)

[SA Chris]

Move to here, where it firmly belongs?

https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,30164.0.html

[Will Hunt]

Or here:
https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?topic=26882.0

[Coops_13]

I think I film stuff for two reasons:
 - Indoors to help with personal motivation / boredom. Think my board videos were of me one-legged climbing when my knee was injured
 - Outdoors to give mates a laugh at my squawking and make them jealous of where I live now 

[andy popp]

I need to make more effort to understand the game

No, you really don't (despite what Cheque says). I enjoyed Superbowl 2018 because, well, Philly (and because all my in-laws are diehard Eagles fans). I've also quite enjoyed the event of actually attending a couple of college football games, but objectively it's a truly terrible game.

[SA Chris]

Coops, try see a (n ice) hockey game, much better to watch live than televised.

[Coops_13]

Coops, try see a (n ice) hockey game, much better to watch live than televised.

Yeah that does look much better. Watched a few Bruins games last year on the TV with a Boston-based Aussie colleague

[36chambers]

I am guilty of enjoying a good burn off though. Carnage in font, Italian guy no where near, "excuse me can I have quick
go..."

What's even better is suggesting some beta, which ends up unlocking the problem for them, and then watching them send it. Warm fuzzy feels for everyone

[SA Chris]

What you don't do is flash the problem, then go back down, watch your mate fail, show him the crux beta at the bottom, then jump off, having failed to notice he chucked the pad down over a grapefruit sized boulder, which you hit in exactly the wrong spot, thus badly spraining (and as you later find out, dislocating) your ankle on the first problem of a 3 week climbing trip.

[cheque]

despite what Cheque says... objectively it's a truly terrible game.

This seems an uncharacteristically illiberal dismissal Andy. Can you enlighten me on what terrible factors should have stopped me enjoying watching it (without any geographical or familial allegiance) for three decades?

[Somebody's Fool]

Beastmaker set up on the other hand was brilliant.

I think this board is done by Hardwood Holds.

Looks like Beastmaker have made it to wooden holds what Tannoy have to public address systems.

[Bradders]

Beastmaker set up on the other hand was brilliant.

I think this board is done by Hardwood Holds.

Looks like Beastmaker have made it to wooden holds what Tannoy have to public address systems.

Looks like you're quite right! My apologies / compliments to Hardwood Holds.

[James Malloch]

I’m going to try and join in with this again as a bit of motivation and keep check on what I’m doing. No real training but hopefully enough to get me up the routes I want to do this year.

Route aims are all onsightable or to be completed in a day or two if all goes to plan. The main hurdles will be Tremolo (7c) and Powerband (7C - this one will take quite a bit of time I think).

Any specific requirements for these would be great to know! I’ve been on tremolo in the past, once, but can;t remember if it’s got rests etc.



M - Foundry, Sheffield. Autobelays to warm up (new harness - YYFY for no more stitching coming undone...) and then onto the Wave. Horribly busy (boot demo & comp) but managed to flash a lot of the Wasp & Blacks. There’s a certain amount of extra try-hard when you have to queue for problems! Worked some of the elites too - got some in overlapping halves but still a bit out of my league. Tried some pink/yellow at the end and failed - realised it was time to go home...

I’ve come to love the wave now. When at uni I hated it as I was shit and it was hard. Now I’m at a level which means I can properly try and realised its just the best wall for getting strong.

T - German Class

W -

T - Late, short, citybloc session. Good warm up on easy problems and a bit of recruitment on the campus board. Wasn’t feeling trying problems so went to the board (inspired by Dan T’s power hour video).

Unfortunately I’m way shitter than the board so I don’t have 5 problems which I can easily do. However I’ve got a bunch which I’ll hopefully be able to do fairly consistently within a month. I find the board has awful finishing holds which is often the crux for me! It’s a 5 minute walk from home so a nice easy wall to get to.

Tried a 1-arm hang (middle BM 2000 slot) mid way through the session and managed it with 8.5kg assistance on LH (right wrist is a bit iffy so didn’t try hard on that). Better than the -12kg when I did a lattice test a few years back, but worst than the body weight I could do a year ago after lots of campusing. Hopefully it’s at a level where I won’t injure myself this time though by trying lots of party tricks.

Finished with a bit of core on the bar.

F - Brexit misery / beers.

S - Fieldwork in Coverdale. Miserable, cold day. Overtopped my wellies within 20 mins. No spare socks. Shit day.

S - Sheffield Depot with some mates. 6a into 6b into 6c+ on circuit board to get warm followed by a little easy campusing and some longer reds. Needed a rest after this - note to self, don’t get boxed on the warm up. Tried the purple circuit and surprised myself by getting a lot of them done. Either it’s softer than normal or I’ve improved since last time I went to a depot a few months back.

[shark]

and Powerband (7C - this one will take quite a bit of time I think).

Have you done Bens? If not it’s worth considering instead as it’s almost perma dry, less tweaky, has progression options, is better for route training (especially core) and almost certainly easier

[tomtom]

and Powerband (7C - this one will take quite a bit of time I think).

Have you done Bens? If not it’s worth considering instead as it’s almost perma dry, less tweaky, has progression options, is better for route training (especially core) and almost certainly easier

L.O.L. Spat coffee out :D