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Strangeness Club 27 Jan - 2 Feb (Read 8722 times)

shark

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Strangeness Club 27 Jan - 2 Feb
February 03, 2020, 08:27:33 am
11.4-5 159.2 average down 0.6lbs

M. Afternoon. PM Tor. Just me and dogs. Repeated cross through move and made some micro beta improvements to this and the kick move. Then linked second move to doing kick but muffed up setting for cross though as automatically slipped into old sequence. Tried from first move and felt strong on move but didn’t quite latch crimp properly and ran out of light. Really enjoying unlocking this and making subtle improvements
Eve. Fingerboard. Max hangs ergo edge half crimp and drag. DB cleans, Front levers and assisted one armers.

T.

W. Noon. Fingerboard First session of recruitment pulls as recommended by Nick Sillem after foundry test last
PM Went to Anston. Woodys wet. Couldn’t be arsed to check out Wave/Ebola so let dogs have a run round then went to...
Foundry. Campus board. Little stronger in shoulder on big holds. Mainly concentrated on laddering small rungs as fast as possible. Stronger on Oak move on board. Did it off blue foothold with decent intermediate but not poorer one. Keith and Steve there so had a quick catch up on the goss.

T.

F. Noon. Crappy weather. Tor. Damp and greasy. Just me and the dogs there all day. Ok session considering. Long rests between short goes. Best links were kick into cross thru, first move into setting up for kick and second move to setting up for cross thru but foot greased out of niche.
Eve. Celebrated end of Dry January a few hours early with a bottle of Bordeaux.  :-[

S.Afternoon. Higgar East. Tommy home from Uni for weekend and keen to go out. Seems like he’s really got the bug and even started training. Got blown in the wind around walking in but reasonably sheltered at crag. Joined a pair from Derby on Piss/Shit. No warming up and Tommy did Piss third pull on. After an hour he’d done Shit too. Some consternation about a foothold he used at the top but further inspection showed it to be a sloper right of the Hemline shelf and so he was duly awarded the tick and his first 7B+ (vid below)I pottered on it but was tired from previous day so backed off. Tommy had a few attempts at the Arête and we called it a day. Awesome to see him so psyched and crushing. Looking forward to getting out and about with him at Easter.

S. PM Systems Board. Benchmarks. Managed my hardest version of the Oak throw move on it yet. Stronger core means I can use a lower foothold. Excited to find out how all this translates on the real thing. Next version involved doing it with only back 3 in undercut. Did some PE/AnCap - 4 burns on the old circuit.
Eve. Forgot I meant to fingerboard.  :slap:

Been in a bit of a meh fug all month about life stuff. Couldn’t face doing a best Of 2019 post as it would depress me remembering how good RRG was. Feel happier now all of a sudden. Guess I  was just pining for booze.  Was hoping to sneak a week away in Spain with Nick but his wife has broken her leg badly.

Going to start phasing in more power endurance stuff inside and by doing longer links on Bens. Weather looking decent this week.



nai

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#1 Re: Strangeness Club 27 Jan - 2 Feb
February 03, 2020, 09:13:46 am
STG: Moonboard 7A, Depot 50 6B, Font 7C.  4 weeks til week long trip tbc
Spring 2020 Lime Font 7C.

M - Made a late call to head to Staffordshire again, wanting to try Tetris. The closer I got the poorer the decision seemed as roads and walls became wetter and wetter.
After a too brief "warm up" getting freezing cold as the only bits of dry rock were full in the wind, I headed in to the Clouds.  Arrived with feet cold and wet, trousers soaked up to the knees and feeling hassled. Struggled on Hard Arete and Tetris was pretty much a non starter. Couldn't stay warm and couldn't level the pads so they were sliding about all over the place. Plus two felt very inadequate anyway.  Morpho piece of shit.
Trudged back out, legs soaked again. headed up to Calcutta Buttress and tried Limbless Limbo Dancer for a while, got close but didn't do that either.  Moved over to Too Drunk and found my level at last: steep, basic, lowball. Saved the day.

T - Felt slightly second hand but headed to Church with Dolly and Tom.  Looked at sit starts to Pockets and Gullivers Travels. Both seem a bit shit and contrived needing two pads to start sitting rather than crouched.
Pockets nails on grim crimps but the crux is folding your left leg in to stop it from dabbing.
Gullivers SS is only about 6B so not sure how it bumps the grade to 7C, didn't stop me trying it though, crux still the last move by a mile, came close to holding it but left hand blew off the gaston.
HI core back home

W rest - shoulder and leg stretch

Th - Decided to check out Roche Abbey, arrived warmed up, did Faith Left Hand, felt like I should have done it quicker but lime 7A+ in under an hour is a result really, especuially if you consider I've not done Rattle & Hump after a decade.  Moved onto stuff on the LHS roof, was just getting to grips with Jazzy Jester when a load of old Landrovers and Camo ex army trucks appeared followed 10 minutes later by lots of banging. At first I thought they were fireworks but it became apparent they were gunshots. Shotguns, and really close, 50 meters away maybe.  I must admit to slightly shitting myself, rationally telling myself it was a pheasant shoot and nothing to worry about but the other voice was telling me it was a bunch of wannabe army nutters running riot shooting dog walkers and boulderers.  Got out of there ASAP staying low and covered.

Core back home

F - AM deadhangs then a good board session, pretty intensive and shouldery. Was running out of time for conditioning, only managed DL, OH Squat & Pistols - managed seven on right leg and four on left.
PM - nipper in Sheffield schools bouldering comp. She flashed nine problems, did 10th at the third attempt but ran out of time to try the last two.  Good effort, only one other person did P7, a different person did P9 and nobody else managed P8 or P10.

S rest
S nowt - (well, took nipper to an all day Hockey tournament, 9 hours out of the house driving or standing around, left knee and right shoulder were stiff in the evening).

spidermonkey09

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#2 Re: Strangeness Club 27 Jan - 2 Feb
February 03, 2020, 09:22:55 am
Tommy looked hydraulic on that. Haircut must have had a kind of reverse Samson effect.

M - Max hangs. Just about managed the set which was pleasing.

T - tried a new wall in the centre of Leicester, embarrassingly called "Social Climbing."  :sick: Name aside, it was actually very good, with an excellent board at the back. Only downside was the punters clustering directly underneath it as it is sort of integrated into the general wall space; not brilliant design. Had a good session doing a few problems and then going on the board. Good to remember the movement required and keen for a bit more of it.

W - core.

T - Max Hangs; again just about scraped through the set. Went and did some routes afterwards which basically constituted a repeaters session.

F - rest.

S - Burbage West. Warmed up at the Bridge and froze. Fortunately West was much more sheltered, to the extent that conditions felt shit on the Nose. Had a cursory go and bailed across to West Side Story. Immediately stuck top sidepull a few times in a row before I went backwards for an hour or so. Changed sequence to match top sidepull and then had one of those magic go's where it just feels effortless. Sprung for the jug, latched it, shook out while the pads were being stacked and then sprinted for the top. Great problem and very pleased to have done it so quickly. Had a few goes on the right hand 7B variation but decided to quit while I was ahead. It felt a bit harder than Layby Arete to me but maybe not quite 7C...that said, whenever you tick problems like that they always feel easy so judging the grade is very hard, and it suits me well. Whatever the grade is its a bloody brilliant problem.

S -  got bored inside all day. watched the rugby (shit) and then did some max hangs. Up to 30kg and seem to have found my max, finally. Did 2 good hangs and three with diminishing form. Will stick with this weight for a few weeks now.

Looking back I did quite a lot this week. Probably a bit quieter this week and hopefully good weather at the weekend.


sam_read

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#3 Re: Strangeness Club 27 Jan - 2 Feb
February 03, 2020, 09:35:44 am
Hi All

New to power club if that's ok!

I'm hoping the act of writing my weeks training on here will help me stay on track for 2020. I've been climbing for 12 years now and while I've done 12 week blocks of training I've never stuck with it so while I'm hoping to get lots done this year I'm viewing sticking to a years training as a path to 2021 as much as anything.

STG - Propeller Head Direct, What would Jerry do, Weedkiller....commit to making the drive to get outdoors from London at least 3 weekends a month.
MTG - Finishing reappointing Tin Of (Done on top rope, just need to work on my inability to lead things with any degree of ability), Simple Simon stand start, Seventh Aardvark, Yosemite Wall....generally spend the year building a really good base of 6th grade sport routes and RP's of low - mid 7's.
LTG - WSS, Simple Simon sit, various routes from Peak Rock sport climbing chapter.

Mon - Routes 6a x 4, 6a+ x 4 & 6b+ x 2 to warm up, into 4x4 on 6b+, 6b+ (failed 4th go), crimpy 6c+ (failed 4th go) then 6b+. Max hangs 10mm BM micro 6 reps, 10 x 3 push up, kettle bell shoulder press 10kg 10 x 3 failed each set on my left side.

Tue - Ring push up, standing ring roll out then ring fly - 10 each x 3 sets, ring dips 5,5,3,4,4 (aiming for 5 x 5), TRX Y + T 10 x 3 each. Didn't climb as I'd managed to peel my thumb along with some carrots earlier in the day.

Wed - 15 x 4 push up, tried to climb however the aforementioned peeled finger immediately split open

Thur - Routes 6a+ x 3, 5+ x 2 & 6b+ x 2 to warm up, into 4x4 on 6b+, 6b+, crimpy 6c+ (failed top on 4th go) then 6c (failed 3rd go) Max hangs 10mm BM micro 6 reps, 10 x 3 push up, kettle bell shoulder press 10kg right arm, 8 kg left arm 10 x 3.

Fri - Visited new wall in South East, Volume One, was feeling pretty under the weather but managed a good amount of the 6B-6C+ circuit plus some interesting easier problems. TRX Y + T 10 x 3 each, push up 15 x 4, 5 pull ups on the minute for 5 minutes.

Sat - Write off, illness
Sun - Write off, illness

Bit of a disjointed week training wise as the cold seems to have come back, I also need to try and balance route and board sessions a bit better....for my interest as much as gains. Filming myself on ring flys certainly highlighted that while not painful anymore, my injured left shoulder is certainly weaker than the right. At least I assume that's the case by the amount I drift right while doing flys.

See you next week

Sam

shark

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#4 Re: Strangeness Club 27 Jan - 2 Feb
February 03, 2020, 09:38:43 am
Hi All

New to power club if that's ok!

I'm hoping the act of writing my weeks training on here will help me stay on track for 2020. I've been climbing for 12 years now and while I've done 12 week blocks of training I've never stuck with it so while I'm hoping to get lots done this year I'm viewing sticking to a years training

 :icon_welcome:

tomtom

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#5 Re: Strangeness Club 27 Jan - 2 Feb
February 03, 2020, 10:11:35 am
Welcome Sam. Well done on WSS Spidermonkey! I've made the porthole a few times but never the top!

A funny week... progress yet not... (usual story then!)

Tues: Church Crag - got there about an hour after Dolly and Nai had arrived. Remebered to warm up. Was trying Gullivers and Pinch Hitter. Couldn't really focus on either... got very close on PH - even closer after the others left but no cigar. A real roll the dice problem for me - effectively a blind slap for a big hold. Nearly split a tip on it - so moved back to Gullivers Travels. Its a strange problem for me - every move is a fight - so I spent some time working out micro beta on the bottom part and found some little tweaks that made if much better for me. I've not really thought about this before as been there with other people, so just pulled hard and tried - but breaking it down more and refining it on my own seemed to help...

Thurs: Helsby. One of the few places that was OK/in decent nic. Went first to the woods buttress which was mostly damp - but took some time there to clean up a load of laughing gas cannisters/litter that some locals had left behind.. Went up to the hilltop but there were a couple of people there - so played on Ron B's on the barrel butress until the tip I nearly splut on tues - nearly split again... Back up to to the top (people had gone) and spent a good while working Tears in the Rain. Again  - really refining beta/moves. DId some big links from the beginning - with my last go of the day from the start through both harder parts and through to the easier 6B part before I pumped out and fell off... I may need to train some power endurance for this problem. Bah. Anyway - easily my best link and now completing the problem is really just down to a bit of endurance/climb faster methods...

Fri: Given a couple of hours off so headed to the Depot. Had a good warm up then moved to the 50. Felt like I was climbing crap but did OK on reflection. Had a good chat with Fiend.

Sun: I wonder if I was the only person to find "dry" rock on sunday...? Had the afternoon off after extensive childcare duties (hungover wife) from Fri/Sat - so took a chance and as the wind picked up in the afternoon headed to Trowbarrow. Red wall was OK - but the Shelterstone was not so great. Unless you wanted to work Pit Problem - where the three holds were dry. I did (want to work Pit Problem) - so I did. I've been trying this problem for ten years now... I think I was probably my closest on Sunday - but whilst if felt OK/Positive/Progress - looking at my own footage it was a bit pitiful - sagging arse, right heel kept flying out. Dry firing... hmmm... Anyway - I did get my fingers on/around/over the high crimp (a new high point) but not in any form to stably catch it. Tired out fairly fast - but trying to figure out how much of a pull on the right heel/toe it is - vs a push with the left toe - vs clamping both....

spidermonkey09

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#6 Re: Strangeness Club 27 Jan - 2 Feb
February 03, 2020, 10:53:15 am
I've made the porthole a few times but never the top!


That's gutting. I was concerned about the top as I couldn't do it at the end of the previous session but it felt reasonably steady on the go. Its only one move, but you have to lock the left arm right down so can see people dropping it when tired.

JohnM

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#7 Re: Strangeness Club 27 Jan - 2 Feb
February 03, 2020, 11:56:21 am
Weight 10st5lb-6lb

M: Ran to the climbing wall via the trails (10.25km with 318m vert). I wanted to find my max. weighted pull-up and then do some pyramid sets based on that. I did a good shoulder recruitment warm-up with some core and then warmed up doing pull-ups gradually adding weight. I had no expectations about what my max. would be but then one of the Austrian team coaches said I should be pulling at least 34kg-40kg based on my body weight. Then I was annoyed that I failed miserably to go over 30kg. After 25kg I am being held back by a pain in the bicep tendon which I will need to remedy first. The session then turned into an unstructured mess with various sets of pull-ups with 10kg-15kg added, some unweighted dips and some negative bicep curls for the bicep tendon. This session made me realise that I have relatively low basic strength both in pushing and pulling. Outdoors you can get away with having strong fingers and technique on a lot of styles but I think improving my basic strength will be beneficial in general. Ran home from the climbing wall by the river (9km).

T: Nothing. Spent the day being messed around by DPD trying to get hold of my new work "super computer" and out for dinner with friends and friends of friends. One woman (who I didn't know) talked about herself and her work for the whole dinner without pause...

W: Evening at the climbing wall. Good shoulder recruitment warm-up and some core. Some issues in the bicep tendon again when I go beyond 90 degrees in a pull-up. My left shoulder is feeling good now and I can hang one-armed with a straight elbow and recruited shoulder very comfortably now. Despite being stronger in general on the right side I struggle a bit doing this on the right arm and get a trapping/pinching sensation when I recruit the shoulder one-armed. I wanted to warm-up bouldering and then do 4x4s on an 11 move boulder I had devised in the training room. However, on going up there it was rammed with lots of topless guys with long hair so I sacked off the idea. Tried some one-armed hangs on the lower middle rung of the Beastmaker. For the first time I felt like I could almost hang one-armed in that locked-out straight arm position people seem to do. I felt best on the right arm but a pinching in the right shoulder stopped me from pushing to hard. I went back down to the set boulders and had a decent session doing V5-V7s.

T: A running training session recommended to me by a guy who trains the Nordic Combined youth team. Intervals on a hill - minute on/minute off x 12. This felt brutal and I was gasping for breath after every set. I was meant to rest 6 minutes and do it all again but stopped after one set.

F: AM: Running hills sets x 5 all under 5 minutes per set and then a trail run from the bottom of the valley up to a hut at 1100m (14.3km with 1057m vert). PM: Group trail run (19.29km with 791m vert). I had very tired legs and a pain where the quad goes into the hip (Rectus Femoris?) on the right leg. 

S: Climbing at Martinswand (Dschungelbuch). Amazing winter sun but another ego-destroying day on the most sandbag grades I have ever climbing on! Warmed up on a nails but good 6b+. Checked-out the 7b extension (a stiff boulder problem in the sky) and did that next try. Tried my 8a+ project Hyperfreiflug. This is now the longest an 8a+ has ever taken me by far. This route features extremely crimpy and shouldely moves. I am feeling much better on the moves since I have improved my shoulder health but have still lacked the conditions, skin and PE to put it all together. It was warm and glassy on Saturday and after one try my fingertips were on fire and I could barely touch the holds on my second try. Pulled on the quickdraws to get to the top! Finished by doing another 7b second try. A very powerful but fun route and one I would do again.


Hyperfreiflug (8a+)

S: AM: Trail run with the gf (22.1km with 1025m vert). I felt great and went at a pace I felt like I could go at forever. Got a pb on one of the hill climbs and my legs felt mechanical. I once had this feeling in climbing! PM: First beers of the year watching the rugby which was rubbish.

A pretty good week training-wise, especially with the running. Climbing was ok but I need to sort out some niggles (bicep tendon, right shoulder impingement and persistent neck strain/stiffness on the right side) and improve my endurance. I feel like I have reached a new level in trail running but I am trying to learn from my past mistakes in climbing and rest properly rather than keep pushing hard when the going is good! I also need to sort my sleep out. I keep waking up at 2am full off cortisol and a high heart rate. I am not really sure why this is as I am the least stressed in my day-to-day work I have been for 2 years. Maybe Brexit or my unknown but impending Austrian tax bill is stressing me out more than I realise.




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#8 Re: Strangeness Club 27 Jan - 2 Feb
February 03, 2020, 11:59:37 am
M rest
T 1 arm hangs, also did a couple of yellows at the depot
W Ultimate Warrior, did the stand, struggled to get warm, had too many goes in quick succession, ruined skin. Managed moves into the stand twice but didnt finish. Will go back soon and be tactically better.
T 2 arm hangs, weighted pull ups, rings
F rest
S: BUK 55 board, close on something I've been trying for a while but no cigar. LH ring finger had some purple sections on it which was worrying but no pain, purpleness went after icing
S: 2 arm hangs. finger felt fine so went and did most of the purples at the depot.

Back to try Ultimate Warrior wed if my skin/the weather allows it. Really not my style but really want to do it.

HarryBD

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#9 Re: Strangeness Club 27 Jan - 2 Feb
February 03, 2020, 12:32:25 pm
Newbie here - not really thought about goals but hopeful that regularly posting and committing will keep me on the straight and narrow. Will have a think...

M - New fingerboard arrived - Crimpd finger strength test +4kg max (on top of 82kg bodyweight)
T - Diddy Depot trying to flash loads of reds - saw red and didn't rest enough if I failed on anything. Climbed crap and ended up hurting my shoulder. Fiddled with it on the way home and told the missus to pinch my traps as hard as possible to release tension there. Will have to get her to train pinches as I had to assist her matched grip on my trap with the opposite hand to get anything close to enough pressure.
W - woke up and shoulder felt loads better. Planned lamps at Norwood Edge but weather turned so did Crimpd max hangs session. Had to fiddle with how to attach weight to a pulley without it getting in the way of my body. Completed session and wanted to do more. Shoulder stability, core and mobility - leg swings then pancake progression (way off) and hips.
Th - Lunch run 30mins
F - fish and chips
S - Day at Scugdale (Scot Crag) first time climbing in the Moors. Played with new camera. Flashed loads of 'routes'. Led Bonzo for my 4th HVS lead and did Stewker which gets E1/6A in Franco's book but doesn't deserve a trad grade IMO and I thought 6A was a bit harsh, thought + or 6B fairer.
S - morning run 30mins in gloopy mud followed by mobility in hips and shoulders - achy back from the mileage on Saturday.

SA Chris

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#10 Re: Strangeness Club 27 Jan - 2 Feb
February 03, 2020, 01:03:26 pm
27th - 6 K run while son at Athletics, fastish pace. Core session in evening.
28th - weights at gym.
29th - bouldering at wall. Felt OK ish.
30th - not a huge amount
31st - not a huge amount
1st - in town with kids, lots of walking
2nd - Forfar Multiterrain Half Marathon. Weather mixed, ice on the ground at first soon turned to slush and mud. Rained pretty much throughout. with a lot of the ground wet and slippery, making for hard going on slippery descents. May have been better with slightly gripper shoes, but managed to stay upright. Time 1:50:20, 9 and a halfish minutes faster than previous effort 2 years ago.

Will Hunt

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#11 Re: Strangeness Club 27 Jan - 2 Feb
February 03, 2020, 01:11:33 pm
Brilliant work on WSS, Jim.

Very droll naming of the club this week, Shark  :spank:
I shall try to live up to expectations.

M - drive to Center Parcs. Swimming and slides with sprog. Beers in the evening.
T - swimming (but not really the type that really constitutes exercise). My in-laws family pastime is drinking, so each night there were beers. Probably not good for the belly.
W - Annual Ritualistic Badminton Humiliation at the hands of my parents-in-law. Didn't actually put in a bad show. Went for a running lap of the park afterward. Made me ache for a few days as I never run, but it felt good to do some exercise. I feel like I should do more, but not sure of when I'll fit it in. Swimming n' slides.
T - Swimming n'slides.
F - Quick swim then home.

S - Sorry, long description coming up. Skip ahead if you CBA.
Rain due to come in about 3. Since about 2016 when #SamMarks did it on a top rope, there have been mutterings about doing Strangeness at Caley. On an evening in 2018 I walked under it and was struck by how good the landing was - but it looks high and the top looks very blank from below. There was more muttering about doing it ground up. Chivvied on by last week's fun with Desperate Dan we managed to assemble a group of five. A quick warm up on Roof of the World and some failed attempts at the dyno variation to the Pinch (bunched launch position and you've got to get your hand right over the top. Tough). Onto Strangeness where Dave worked out the moves to the flake. First go I got up to beyond the pocket (where Leo put the skyhook on his onsight. I think there's also a dreadful RP nearby which has ripped on at least one person) to a generous edge that you can share two hands on. While we were warming up, Ian had abseiled down and brushed and chalked the holds, so I could see some chalk above me where there was supposed to be something - but it looks like nothing from below. I looked down at the distant pads and jumped off. Started to feel no little regret. I'd thought it would be great to just get up to the pocket, and I didn't want to commit into the unknown without knowing what was coming on the next moves, which I wouldn't want to fall off.
Dave then got to the double-handed edge and pushed on to the next hold above, which he described as a good crystally crimp for 2/3 fingers. As he was standing up, his hand crept on the crystally crimp (this is basically the last hold before you put your hand on the ledge), which wobbled his foot, which spat him off. What a lob! He did it next go, then Franco did it, and they persuaded me that the top wasn't that bad. I set off for another look and got through to the double-handed edge and arranged my feet before gingerly stretching up for the crystal crimp. Found it open-handed, closed it to a crimp - it didn't feel the best, but my body decided that it felt good enough. A quick shimmy of the feet and I was standing up to the top. Mega!
A difficult one to grade. It's clearly not as hard as Pebble Wall at Almscliff, it's probably as hard as Manson's Wall at the Glen, but if you gave it 6C people would kick off. So call it Font 6C+. The start getting to the pseudo-flake feature is a subtle piece of climbing but not hard when you know what to do; there are good holds on and at the top of the pseudo-flake; the crux for the tall (IMO) is contorting your leg onto a very high smear, the crux for the short appears to be standing up far enough on this smear to gain the obvious pocket. This is at a height that feels wiggy but is ultimately OK. The top is reasonably steady if you've got a bit of chalk on the high crystal crimp/pocket thing.
Sorry if that seems like a boring amount of detail to go into, but if it helps others to do it in this style then so be it. I'm not sure if it's been done as a highball before? Has anybody other than Houlding onsighted it with gear and a couple of mats?
Photo here of Ian reaching for the pocket: https://www.instagram.com/p/B8Bo3KXDN7d/

Some people wanted to look at Psycho so off we went. I've done this before, and Adrenaline Rush doesn't really fit the bill as a highball to me, being a bit too slabby at the start to reliably fall off safely, so I had a quick few goes on Crystal Method. Needless to say, I got nowhere  :boohoo:

Rain looked imminent so we shuttled the pads up to the Great Flake. Ever since I watched andyd's video where he falls off from the top (and ultimately makes the top look desperate) and just falls out of the bottom of the shot, I've been of the opinion that this is too high for me to consider. The guidebook Font grade of 7B is quite off-putting also. I mean, Font 7B? Up there?! Really?! But having just jumped off Strangeness it didn't now look too bad, so I thought it worth a go. Warbs went first and pathed it. Obviously. Then I went up and remained fairly calm. There's no individual bit of it which would be out of place on a Font 6B or 6B+, but the hard bit is at the top and you've got some burly jug hauling to do to get there, so Font 6C is probably fair. It's spooky as the positions are very committing indeed. Proper laybacking with occasionally very high feet off to the side. Not one that you'd want to fall off out of control. King line which came quite unexpectedly. Brill.

S - Took the babs for a walk round the Chevin. Walked from the Cheerful Chilli car park along the top then linked up with the path up from the Chevin Gate that goes past the Sugarloaf. Had sandwiches and worked out a little scrambling circuit for the little one. Basically starting next to the Pinch and working uphill past Rick's Rock and across the hillside to Pedestal Arete. She did well and had fun, aided greatly by chocolate coated animal shaped biscuits and the promise that the fairies had hidden some fruit wiggles in their magical cave (at Pedestal Arete). It turns out they had  :ohmy:
Then off to the cafe for tea and cake.

Weighed myself this morning and the needle was on 69Kg, so clearly the copious beer drunk this week has been offset by more exercise.
« Last Edit: February 03, 2020, 01:24:15 pm by Will Hunt »

shark

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#12 Re: Strangeness Club 27 Jan - 2 Feb
February 03, 2020, 01:46:16 pm
Well done. You delivered what everyone hoped for from you - a ceaseless tide of downgrades...

Rob F

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#13 Re: Strangeness Club 27 Jan - 2 Feb
February 03, 2020, 02:35:10 pm
Well done Will. Going well atm!

Watching this non lank thread with interest :-)

Dave Birkett was there the day I did Pinch Dyno as F/A. It was the year when all the crags closed with Foot  & Mouth and we were all mooching around looking for something new to do. He muttered something about dynos being stupid and wouldn't give it a try. We had a laugh that one of Britain's foremost climbers had been reduced to bum shuffle traverses for the whole summer.

He later got F/A of a route I was trying at Baildon, called it Throw Another Sheep on the Fire. Pretty safe but about 4 mono moves in a row pulling over a roof. Like to see your font grade for that one???

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#14 Re: Strangeness Club 27 Jan - 2 Feb
February 03, 2020, 02:36:27 pm
Much as it pains me to agree with Will, I also thought Great Flake was ~F6C+...

I presume Ben also got it ticked (finally)?

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#15 Re: Strangeness Club 27 Jan - 2 Feb
February 03, 2020, 02:45:51 pm
I presume Ben also got it ticked (finally)?

don't make it worse

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#16 Re: Strangeness Club 27 Jan - 2 Feb
February 03, 2020, 02:49:38 pm
I presume Ben also got it ticked (finally)?

Of course he didn't! He wandered up to the crux and jumped off. In fairness, he had decided to go and try Curious Yellow in the morning and then went to fall off Ben's Groove Sit. By the time the pads were under Great Flake he was probably a little goosed. He has been up to the crux before, but unfortunately years of lowballing has curdled his head.

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#17 Re: Strangeness Club 27 Jan - 2 Feb
February 03, 2020, 03:07:08 pm
T: Denver Bouldering Club. First time back indoors for almost five months (if you ignore the failed 'test' attempts), aim is to slowly increase intensity and volume back to full fitness. Wrist not pain-free yet. Did perhaps 10 boulders up to V3 level 95% pain-free. Need to keep discipline and avoid trying stuff too hard. Did core workout (300 core movements) to finish. Wrist a bit sore after

W: Apartment Gym. 10 mins elliptical. Core workout - 300 core movements. Press-ups on sideways kettle bell *3 each side * 3 sets = 18 press-ups.

T: Denver Bouldering Club. Second session back. Did perhaps 15 boulders up to V3/4 level 95% pain-free. Feeling more confident than Tuesday and climbed a few more difficult boulders, maybe five graded M- (silly DBC grading) compared to one on Tuesday

S: Apartment Gym. 10 mins elliptical. Core workout - 300 core movements. Press-ups on sideways kettle bell *3 each side * 3 sets = 18 press-ups. Stretching to finish

Feeling a lot more confident and happy with wrist. Climbing I think has been helping wrist feel better in non-climbing activities too, though I'm sure the stabilising push-ups are helping. Pysched to have three sessions this coming week then hopefully get outside the week after

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#18 Re: Strangeness Club 27 Jan - 2 Feb
February 03, 2020, 03:51:42 pm
No Superbooze Sunday?

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#19 Re: Strangeness Club 27 Jan - 2 Feb
February 03, 2020, 04:55:33 pm
No Superbooze Sunday?
Nah, watched the rugby then went to view some (non-Vegas) wedding venues...

I need to make more effort to understand the game, starting with why you need 45 players in a team...

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#20 Re: Strangeness Club 27 Jan - 2 Feb
February 03, 2020, 05:00:52 pm
I had a comprehensive play by play explained to me over the afternoon before when i was there, complete with plays drawn out in the snow, so i could appreciate the game.

I watched 15 mins, thought it was boring,and went home sober.

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#21 Re: Strangeness Club 27 Jan - 2 Feb
February 03, 2020, 08:05:02 pm
Coops: that’s good so far, now build up your climbing SLOWLY.

shark: good to hear things are falling into place again. Sometimes you have to just keep turning up. I love the bit in your video when someone says “lay one on for the top” and Nick completely ignores him and styles it statically.

Hello Sam and Harry.


STG: enjoy climbing, try hard three times a week.
MTG: embrace sport-climbing, RP 7b+; classic sea-cliff (or similar) E5 before 7.06.2020.
LTG: tbc

M - Shoulder strength
T - Pull-ups (1 set of 4!). Fingerboard ‘max. hangs’, strength started to wane after 5 goes: amazing how quickly you loose this in 3 weeks off.
W - Pull-ups (3 sets of 5-6). Shoulder strength.
T - Fingerboard ‘max. hangs’: 10 goes, a bit more like it.
F - Shoulder strength; 50 mins. brisk walk.
S - Grabbed an hour at The Westway between tiger parenting. Knee still too sore for bouldering so did 45 minutes of aerocap (2.5 minutes on every 5 minutes) to about 6b. All very slow, front-on and untwisty, which felt quite alien on an indoor wall but probably pretty transferable to climbing outdoors. 
S - Shoulder strength and pull-ups (6 sets of 5 or 6). The lad was inspired to do his first unassisted chin-up. Low odds on surpassing his dad in the next 12 months. Shoulder strength. Brisk walk.

First week of solo parenting. Knee ruled out any outdoor climbing even if I had been able to arrange child care. This is fine, it’s no bad idea to focus on some basic strength for a few weeks.

Plan: fingerboarding, pull-ups, bouldering as knee recovers. 

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#22 Re: Strangeness Club 27 Jan - 2 Feb
February 03, 2020, 09:02:08 pm
Welcome new folks.
Take it easy Coops!
Nice work Jim & Will  ;D

M - Almscliff. Ticked Crucifix Arete eliminate sit; tough actually! Exorcist (trying it via the Ear finish as skin way too thin for the DWR LH version). Did it in 2 overlapping halves twice, with short rests between falling off and pulling back on, but couldn't seal the deal on the link. Getting close though. Ran laps on DBS to finish.

T - long day, down to London for work. Ravenswall in the evening; lovely little wall. Got there about half 7 and it was busy but not bad. Warmed up then flashed all the V3-5 wasp circuit in one of the rooms (excellent setting on these), then tried a V6-8 black and dropped the last move a few times. Lost loads of skin as it was so warm. Flashed a different black, then went for my first ever go on a Moonboard. Topless dude with a fish eye video camera, planted right in front of the board on a tripod, filming himself trying a problem, so not knowing any others dickhead here wandered in and dispatched with the flash. He didn't look best pleased. Turned out it was a 7A+ apparently. Tried a couple of other random things but it was boiling so I retreated to the (superb) outdoor Beastmaker board, which I had to myself. Flashed 2 7As from their in house app, then fell off the last move of a 7A+ 3 times. Skin absolutely screaming by this point but dropped the penultimate move of another 7A, then flashed one more before calling it.

Really good session, first time I've been to a wall other than the Pudsey Depot in a couple of years! Not a fan of the Moonboard. Grim holds and feet follow hands is weird, plus the LED system is rubbish. Beastmaker set up on the other hand was brilliant.

W - long work day and train home

T - long work day

F - work, managed to get to the Pudsey Depot in the evening. Warmed up then dabbled with a couple of oranges before going on the 50. Core felt disconnected and floppy, no doubt a result of sitting in meetings/on trains/at desks for three days, but massively surprised myself by doing one of my 7B projects! Tried a few others but left with plenty in the tank.

S - wanted to go to Almscliff but bailed due to wind. Caley instead. Lots of showers on arrival and very nearly sacked it as only had the morning and couldn't be arsed. Stuck with it though and between 10am and 1pm I did Forked Lightning Trav, Crystal Method 5th go, Zoo stand first go, one try from the start on Zoo and dropped the dead point, 5 tries at the cut loose and held it a couple but couldn't get feet back on, JuJu Club 2nd go, Ben's Groove 2nd go and did the crux of Ben's sit into the stand 2nd go but foot popped going for sloper, then did it again after a short rest but foot popped on the swap. 

Great session but gutted I a) didn't realise Ben's was dry earlier, and b) didn't have more time. Went today and it was wet again.

S - rest

Decent week, glad to still feel progress despite heavy work stuff.

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#23 Re: Strangeness Club 27 Jan - 2 Feb
February 03, 2020, 10:00:39 pm
Topless dude with a fish eye video camera, planted right in front of the board on a tripod, filming himself trying a problem, so not knowing any others dickhead here wandered in and dispatched with the flash. He didn't look best pleased.

I'd take burning off a London bellend over a brace of Caley highballs any day.

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#24 Re: Strangeness Club 27 Jan - 2 Feb
February 03, 2020, 10:12:18 pm
Topless dude with a fish eye video camera, planted right in front of the board on a tripod, filming himself trying a problem, so not knowing any others dickhead here wandered in and dispatched with the flash. He didn't look best pleased.

I'd take burning off a London bellend over a brace of Caley highballs any day.

In this situation, no matter how hard / tall short / whatever you found it, everyone would completely have your back when you gave it the big downgrade  :)

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#25 Re: Strangeness Club 27 Jan - 2 Feb
February 04, 2020, 08:11:32 am

I need to sort out some niggles (bicep tendon, right shoulder impingement and persistent neck strain/stiffness on the right side) and improve my endurance.

I was trying to keep count of these reading the post! That 8a+ looks great.

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#26 Re: Strangeness Club 27 Jan - 2 Feb
February 04, 2020, 09:16:20 am
Power Club

Mon - garage, back3 front3 on 14 mm edge +30 kg x7. Landmine barbell work. Pull ups. Trap bar DL finisher 30" style.
Tue - rest.
Wed - trap bar DL, pull ups, overhead carry circuit x10. Brutal.
Thu - glutes, one leg RDL x10; abs, bar: feet to ceiling x5; all x5. T bar rows, 20x3. Clean and press 30" finisher 30 kg.
Fri - boxing bag.
Sat - ab wheel, push ups, legs, press ups.
Sun - light boxing bag.

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#27 Re: Strangeness Club 27 Jan - 2 Feb
February 04, 2020, 11:25:00 am
First 2020 post on here, since I have been a bit injured and dealing with my PhD coming to an end, along with christmas etc. All came at the right time really, since any one of those things would have meant time off climbing. Three birds one stone and all that!

During my break I have been doing a decent amount of low weight shoulder exercises (I's, Y's and T's) with high reps to try and build the small muscles, which are oft ignored.

I have had a hard time getting my strength back after a compounding A3 pulley injury, which was as a result of training for a minging crimp line. Turns out I was crimping too much (the limit exists!). Been doing a decent amount of fingerboarding for active recovery, which I always feel is a bit more controllable and safe than climbing when you are recovering. It has finally started kicking in, thank god, cos I was strongly considering benching climbing for a while

M - First climb in over a month, felt incredibly pessimistic after the last few hang sessions. Weak as a kitten, could barely haul myself up stuff I used to cruise for a warm up previously. Contact strength completely non-existent. A disappointing session, but it still felt good to get my boots on and cover myself in chalk.

T - Rest, wine, and self pity.

W - Light core and small muscle shoulder stuff. IYT 3x10 each, 6kg dumbbells. 5x10 rollouts.

T - Hangboarding. Piteous, could barely hang the low rung for more than 5s half crimp and dragging. 6mm micros felt hideous, but hangable when I decided it was 90% pain tolerance.

F - Rest

S - Watched DTs new film, and something clicked. Upped my game to the full fingers, arms, core hang session, and everything felt much better. Even the micros felt easier. One arm half crimp was back to 80% hang time, same with dragging. Core felt decent. Arms much better. Maybe I wont sell everything and flounce off after all.

S - Rest.

Some progress, lending me small amounts of optimism. I am even dreaming about my projects again...

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#28 Re: Strangeness Club 27 Jan - 2 Feb
February 04, 2020, 12:38:46 pm
Good 'un Spidermonkey- I was photographong some lads trying WSS on Saturday afternoon and saw what I now realise was your chalk going all the way to the top.

You missed a classic Superbowl Coops. It's harder for Rugby lovers to get into American Football as they're superficially similar but otherwise completely different sports but it's worth making the effort to get over that. My other half (fan of both types of rugby since childhood) was deeply skeptical about the NFL but is equaly passionate about it now. She tells me that the Superbowl was a much more enjoyable watch than Sunday's rugby! It's probably a little easier for Brits to get into from the more light-hearted BBC coverage but you do have the advantage of being able to watch more than a couple of full games a season and not have to stay up 'til 4AM to see the Superbowl.

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#29 Re: Strangeness Club 27 Jan - 2 Feb
February 04, 2020, 01:09:46 pm
Topless dude with a fish eye video camera, planted right in front of the board on a tripod, filming himself trying a problem, so not knowing any others dickhead here wandered in and dispatched with the flash. He didn't look best pleased.

I'd take burning off a London bellend over a brace of Caley highballs any day.

In this situation, no matter how hard / tall short / whatever you found it, everyone would completely have your back when you gave it the big downgrade  :)

How is this any different to Coops, Jack Pal, Turnip and a load of others filming themselves on a board for instagram? If I didn't know Coops I'd have though he was a bit of a  :wank: ;)

I am guilty of enjoying a good burn off though. Carnage in font, Italian guy no where near, "excuse me can I have quick
go..."

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#30 Re: Strangeness Club 27 Jan - 2 Feb
February 04, 2020, 01:31:58 pm
It's a public board??

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#31 Re: Strangeness Club 27 Jan - 2 Feb
February 04, 2020, 02:10:22 pm
I'd argue, whoever you are, if you are filming yourself on a board for instagram, then you are at least a bit of a knob.  :worms:




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#32 Re: Strangeness Club 27 Jan - 2 Feb
February 04, 2020, 02:18:55 pm
Give the guy a break. We don’t know why he was filming himself and even if it was for Instagram so what?

Malc in “Splinter” best thing ever, Joe Bloggs sharing something with his Moonboard mates is a knob? Come on

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#33 Re: Strangeness Club 27 Jan - 2 Feb
February 04, 2020, 02:19:33 pm
Why?

To me calling some a knob on over something someone is motivated about sounds of the behaviour of a knob.

The weather in the UK is wack, if someone is happy to have done something hard on a board and wants people who choose to follow them to see then how is that the behaviour of a knob?

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#34 Re: Strangeness Club 27 Jan - 2 Feb
February 04, 2020, 02:35:49 pm
I am guilty of enjoying a good burn off though. Carnage in font, Italian guy no where near, "excuse me can I have quick
go..."

It was very much the burning off element I enjoyed.

Although to set the scene, it was one of these (or very similar):

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B074VW233J/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_d9xoEbBR3HYHB

Set on a head height tripod, right slap bang square in front of the board (as in, if you took a big cut you'd kick it over).

Nothing wrong with filming yourself on a board, and I've done so myself, but the positioning of it was all just a bit brazen and obnoxious on a public board in a busy wall, in my opinion.

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#35 Re: Strangeness Club 27 Jan - 2 Feb
February 04, 2020, 03:03:52 pm
Splinter is boss, though arguably he wasn't filming himself, which is slightly different?

Maybe it is a nobish thing to say  :guilty: . I've re-written this a few times, but it is hard to write much without jumping to conclusions about motivation. I suppose if people want to watch it, and you want to film it, go for it, whatever floats your boat! Though I would question why it floated my boat?

I've made shit videos of me climbing stuff outside, though only because a mate filmed it as he was going to do the route too. Originally I reasoned that it was so other people could get psyched for the route, but the video quality/editing was so poor I doubt it motivated anyone. Looking back I was mainly doing that for ego boosting reasons (it was a hard route for me), which doesn't seem like a good reason to do stuff?

(ps, i never claimed to not be a knob)





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#36 Re: Strangeness Club 27 Jan - 2 Feb
February 04, 2020, 03:09:40 pm

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#38 Re: Strangeness Club 27 Jan - 2 Feb
February 04, 2020, 03:30:18 pm
I think I film stuff for two reasons:
 - Indoors to help with personal motivation / boredom. Think my board videos were of me one-legged climbing when my knee was injured
 - Outdoors to give mates a laugh at my squawking and make them jealous of where I live now  ;D

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#39 Re: Strangeness Club 27 Jan - 2 Feb
February 04, 2020, 03:30:57 pm
I need to make more effort to understand the game

No, you really don't (despite what Cheque says). I enjoyed Superbowl 2018 because, well, Philly (and because all my in-laws are diehard Eagles fans). I've also quite enjoyed the event of actually attending a couple of college football games, but objectively it's a truly terrible game.

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#40 Re: Strangeness Club 27 Jan - 2 Feb
February 04, 2020, 03:32:44 pm
Coops, try see a (n ice) hockey game, much better to watch live than televised.

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#41 Re: Strangeness Club 27 Jan - 2 Feb
February 04, 2020, 03:36:28 pm
Coops, try see a (n ice) hockey game, much better to watch live than televised.
Yeah that does look much better. Watched a few Bruins games last year on the TV with a Boston-based Aussie colleague

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#42 Re: Strangeness Club 27 Jan - 2 Feb
February 04, 2020, 03:55:24 pm
I am guilty of enjoying a good burn off though. Carnage in font, Italian guy no where near, "excuse me can I have quick
go..."

What's even better is suggesting some beta, which ends up unlocking the problem for them, and then watching them send it. Warm fuzzy feels for everyone :hug:

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#43 Re: Strangeness Club 27 Jan - 2 Feb
February 04, 2020, 04:11:04 pm
What you don't do is flash the problem, then go back down, watch your mate fail, show him the crux beta at the bottom, then jump off, having failed to notice he chucked the pad down over a grapefruit sized boulder, which you hit in exactly the wrong spot, thus badly spraining (and as you later find out, dislocating) your ankle on the first problem of a 3 week climbing trip.

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#44 Re: Strangeness Club 27 Jan - 2 Feb
February 04, 2020, 04:21:34 pm
despite what Cheque says... objectively it's a truly terrible game.

This seems an uncharacteristically illiberal dismissal Andy. Can you enlighten me on what terrible factors should have stopped me enjoying watching it (without any geographical or familial allegiance) for three decades?

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#45 Re: Strangeness Club 27 Jan - 2 Feb
February 04, 2020, 07:46:49 pm
Beastmaker set up on the other hand was brilliant.

I think this board is done by Hardwood Holds.

Looks like Beastmaker have made it to wooden holds what Tannoy have to public address systems.

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#46 Re: Strangeness Club 27 Jan - 2 Feb
February 04, 2020, 08:12:37 pm
Beastmaker set up on the other hand was brilliant.

I think this board is done by Hardwood Holds.

Looks like Beastmaker have made it to wooden holds what Tannoy have to public address systems.

Looks like you're quite right! My apologies / compliments to Hardwood Holds.

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#47 Re: Strangeness Club 27 Jan - 2 Feb
February 05, 2020, 09:15:26 am
I’m going to try and join in with this again as a bit of motivation and keep check on what I’m doing. No real training but hopefully enough to get me up the routes I want to do this year.

Route aims are all onsightable or to be completed in a day or two if all goes to plan. The main hurdles will be Tremolo (7c) and Powerband (7C - this one will take quite a bit of time I think).

Any specific requirements for these would be great to know! I’ve been on tremolo in the past, once, but can;t remember if it’s got rests etc.



M - Foundry, Sheffield. Autobelays to warm up (new harness - YYFY for no more stitching coming undone...) and then onto the Wave. Horribly busy (boot demo & comp) but managed to flash a lot of the Wasp & Blacks. There’s a certain amount of extra try-hard when you have to queue for problems! Worked some of the elites too - got some in overlapping halves but still a bit out of my league. Tried some pink/yellow at the end and failed - realised it was time to go home...

I’ve come to love the wave now. When at uni I hated it as I was shit and it was hard. Now I’m at a level which means I can properly try and realised its just the best wall for getting strong.

T - German Class

W -

T - Late, short, citybloc session. Good warm up on easy problems and a bit of recruitment on the campus board. Wasn’t feeling trying problems so went to the board (inspired by Dan T’s power hour video).

Unfortunately I’m way shitter than the board so I don’t have 5 problems which I can easily do. However I’ve got a bunch which I’ll hopefully be able to do fairly consistently within a month. I find the board has awful finishing holds which is often the crux for me! It’s a 5 minute walk from home so a nice easy wall to get to.

Tried a 1-arm hang (middle BM 2000 slot) mid way through the session and managed it with 8.5kg assistance on LH (right wrist is a bit iffy so didn’t try hard on that). Better than the -12kg when I did a lattice test a few years back, but worst than the body weight I could do a year ago after lots of campusing. Hopefully it’s at a level where I won’t injure myself this time though by trying lots of party tricks.

Finished with a bit of core on the bar.

F - Brexit misery / beers.

S - Fieldwork in Coverdale. Miserable, cold day. Overtopped my wellies within 20 mins. No spare socks. Shit day.

S - Sheffield Depot with some mates. 6a into 6b into 6c+ on circuit board to get warm followed by a little easy campusing and some longer reds. Needed a rest after this - note to self, don’t get boxed on the warm up. Tried the purple circuit and surprised myself by getting a lot of them done. Either it’s softer than normal or I’ve improved since last time I went to a depot a few months back.

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#48 Re: Strangeness Club 27 Jan - 2 Feb
February 05, 2020, 09:47:46 am
and Powerband (7C - this one will take quite a bit of time I think).

Have you done Bens? If not it’s worth considering instead as it’s almost perma dry, less tweaky, has progression options, is better for route training (especially core) and almost certainly easier

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#49 Re: Strangeness Club 27 Jan - 2 Feb
February 05, 2020, 09:51:24 am
and Powerband (7C - this one will take quite a bit of time I think).
Have you done Bens? If not it’s worth considering instead as it’s almost perma dry, less tweaky, has progression options, is better for route training (especially core) and almost certainly easier

L.O.L. Spat coffee out :D

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#50 Re: Strangeness Club 27 Jan - 2 Feb
February 05, 2020, 09:58:42 am
and Powerband (7C - this one will take quite a bit of time I think).

Have you done Bens? If not it’s worth considering instead as it’s almost perma dry, less tweaky, has progression options, is better for route training (especially core) and almost certainly easier

Ben’s is in my mind too! I’ve played on them both in the past when at uni. There’s something I always liked about Powerband which is why I’d love to do it. Though I’ll likely end up trying both. I’m working in Sheffield Monday and Tuesdays now with my new job so when the evenings are longer I’ll be out then all being well.

Still need to tick off a route at the Tor too. Tin of or Sardines should hopefully go now.

Ben’s was a weird one for me - I used to find it okay other than the high toe-hook move near the beginning. Only managed that once!

Edit - I think that for Powerband I tried it once and got nowhere, then after getting a board in the house & doing some campusing I went back and kind of floated up the moves (in smallish sections). I really want to do it as I know I’ll need to get floaty-light strong  ;D
« Last Edit: February 05, 2020, 10:03:48 am by James Malloch »

 

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