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Recurrent finger injury (Read 1341 times)

CrimpyMcCrimpface

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Recurrent finger injury
January 26, 2020, 11:42:17 am
Hello

I've had a recurrent finger injury in my right hand middle finger for about two months now. The pain is in the muscle between the base knuckle and the first on the finger, I think this part may be called the proximal. I have no idea tbh, its where a ring would sit. I met a guy at Gardoms the other day who mentioned that if the pain was on the sides of the finger to, and not just on the underside, most fleshy/muscular part, then I should really take extra steps to look after it. This happens to be the case. The problem is, I've no idea what any of this stuff is called so don't know how to research to fix myself. Thus far I've been massaging with those amazon finger trap rolling massagers and that has been pretty great at supporting recovery. But every time I've banished the pain, it returns next session. Its only slight, so not terribly debilitating, but still I don't want this to be forever. Any help greatly appreciated!

Bradders

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#1 Re: Recurrent finger injury
January 26, 2020, 12:36:03 pm
Usual question is; have you been to see a doctor/physio? Specifically someone who specialises in fingers and climbers. If you're in or near Sheffield there are several specialists now I think.

There's no real muscle in that part of your finger. It's mostly ligaments and tendons. Localised pain when pressing in that area and when crimping usually means you've got a problem with the A2 pulley, which is the sheath through which the tendon runs. Chances are it's a very slight strain or small tear,  but it really could be any number of things so worth getting checked out.

There are also loads of threads on here about rehabbing this type of thing. Have a search. Usually it's something along the lines of gradual progressive deadhangs on a finger board, steadily increasing weight but always keeping pain to a minimum and avoiding hard climbing.

mrjonathanr

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#2 Re: Recurrent finger injury
January 26, 2020, 01:18:57 pm
Sounds like A2 +/-  collateral ligaments but you should see a physio. I’d highly recommend Jon Ovstrovskis at https://www.919clinic.co.uk/ if you are near Sheffield, especially as he can look at it with ultrasound.

Ru

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bigironhorse

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#4 Re: Recurrent finger injury
January 26, 2020, 06:27:48 pm
+1 for Jon at 919 clinic, really good.

 

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