[nai]

I can remember locking down the left hand, heel on over to the right, and reaching a crimp dish for the right hand. Is that not it?

I swung left heel into the MRLH pocket, up for a sloper left hand then do a lot of thrashing and udging, putting your right hand back down to press out on key from memory.

[Duma]

Will if you can reach straight to the crimp dish you're even lankier than I thought.

[Bradders]

M - hour and a half or so fiddy board session at Leeds Depot. Been off it for a few weeks. Just did all my warm ups then worked on but didn't do a couple of the 7As and 7Bs from the app.

T - rest

W - Brimham mid-afternoon. Basically took two big pads for a 1.5hr walk...everything was either damp, completely soaked or being subjected to very strong and freezing cold wind. Felt really weak and hadn't eaten enough; was literally blown over by a gust of wind at one point. Exhausted and frustrated when I eventually made it over to Crimpy Roof. Just messed around really but did the moves on To You Too. Then split a tip.

T - Leeds Depot. Few purples and a couple of mid-20s pinks then fiddy board. As Monday trying to work my way through the 7As-7Bs. Did one of the problems I'd tried on Monday and another from two moves in so full thing will go soon. Tried a few others and made progress. Climbed for quite a while, did lots of difficult feeling moves and stopped when powered out (although did another pink and pinged off a yellow before leaving).

F - 20 mins yoga at lunch

S - now we're talking. Stunner of a day. Up to Stanage North. Someone had taken a poo next to New York, New York and left paper everywhere, so did the stand and sit very quickly before moving on! Met friends at Beauty and soaked up their beta to do it 2nd go. Lovely padding. Then Low Rider. Normally have quite a good head for sequences but not on this thing! Think I'm on fifth session now but they're so spread out (3 years or so) that I can't for the life of me remember what works, and perhaps more importantly what doesn't, from one to the next! So starting from scratch spent ages re-working out the moves. Eventually found a completely solid way of getting both hands on the jug, but couldn't hold a cut bringing feet out so spent even longer sorting this out. Worked it out eventually. Consistent at least both getting to the jug and going from there to the top. Finished trying and failing to do The Green Room Slap. Crikey it's a big move!

S - half an hour stretching in the evening

More walking than climbing this week! Psyched for Low Rider, need to get back on it as soon as possible.

[Will Hunt]

Maybe my memory is playing tricks on me. I just remember humping up to the dish and just about making it.

[205Chris]

Then Low Rider. Normally have quite a good head for sequences but not on this thing! Think I'm on fifth session now but they're so spread out (3 years or so) that I can't for the life of me remember what works, and perhaps more importantly what doesn't, from one to the next! So starting from scratch spent ages re-working out the moves. Eventually found a completely solid way of getting both hands on the jug, but couldn't hold a cut bringing feet out so spent even longer sorting this out. Consistent at least both getting to the jug and going from there to the top.

This was pretty much my experience on Low Rider too!

[Footwork]

Then Low Rider. Normally have quite a good head for sequences but not on this thing! Think I'm on fifth session now but they're so spread out (3 years or so) that I can't for the life of me remember what works, and perhaps more importantly what doesn't, from one to the next! So starting from scratch spent ages re-working out the moves. Eventually found a completely solid way of getting both hands on the jug, but couldn't hold a cut bringing feet out so spent even longer sorting this out. Worked it out eventually.

It really annoys me when I spend a session re-working beta and could have walked away with the send. For problems I'm really keen to go back to I now write micro beta in a little book. I find it's better than video as you can explain in detail what worked well, body positioning wise etc that video doesn't pick up.

For example on Fonz I have "when dropping down to left hand pinch, get heel on and get face by the pinch hold. Stare at it whilst dropping down and squeeze!" Seemed to make the difference...

[Bradders]

It really annoys me when I spend a session re-working beta and could have walked away with the send. For problems I'm really keen to go back to I now write micro beta in a little book. I find it's better than video as you can explain in detail what worked well, body positioning wise etc that video doesn't pick up.

Tell me about it...normally like I say I'm okay but seem to have a particular brain fade with this one! Actually went one further with writing it down; took a photo, numbered all the holds, then wrote out my sequence! Not my idea, although I think it was said in jest and I've taken it too far

Anyway it works; was back on it yesterday evening and fell off with my hand in the break before the jug! I blame gale force winds.

Stare at it

Love when looking in a specific direction makes the difference 

[remus]

For problems I'm really keen to go back to I now write micro beta in a little book. I find it's better than video as you can explain in detail what worked well, body positioning wise etc that video doesn't pick up.

A method I've found pretty good for remembering beta is videoing myself describing the beta, with all those little mimed moves etc. that you'd do when describing it to a mate. Personally I find it hard to write beta down in a clear and concise fashion and when I come back to read it I often struggle to interpret what I meant. Maybe that says more about my writing skills!

[Bradders]

That's next level stuff Remus haha

[tomtom]

That's next level stuff Remus haha

I’ve sort of done that if it’s something super specific. I went back to try new rose again at Farleton last yea (did it 7-8 years back) and handily has a picture of how my fingers were specifically stacked in the dimples/pockets. Turned  out very useful as I couldn’t remember.

[duncan]

I am definitely up for RR this year, though I am way too heavy and unfit at the moment. But with some work I might be ready for end of March / April?

Great. Let’s keep this in mind. I’m also trying to interest AJM so we could have a full set of busy Dads.

Coops: all rather frustrating. Is there a pull-up weight you are confident could manage without reinjuring yourself? This could be much much less than full body-weight. Your aim should be to maintain consistency in loading through your wrist rather than the stop-go that’s currently happening.

remus et al: thanks for the sequence memorising suggestions. Not sure I could keep a straight face whilst being filmed doing the beta dance but it’s a great idea.

[Will Hunt]

That's next level stuff Remus haha

I’ve sort of done that if it’s something super specific. I went back to try new rose again at Farleton last yea (did it 7-8 years back) and handily has a picture of how my fingers were specifically stacked in the dimples/pockets. Turned  out very useful as I couldn’t remember.

I do hope you keep that file in your Google Drive. As and when I go back there I'm planning on finding that photo so I can see how to best get three fingers in play on the hold.

I always write this stuff down in my UKC logbook, where other people might benefit from it either by using the beta (I've certainly used beta that I've found on there before) or laughing at my nerdiness.

It made a real difference on South West Overhang. It was crucial for me to not use the huge pocket foothold, but to instead use a little pebbled divot just next to it. I'd never have remembered that between sessions.

[tomtom]

Last time I gave you some beta/advice you hoovered it up without so much as a thank you and then downgraded what I’d been working on!!

I’ll keep my picture thanks xx

[Will Hunt]

The Chirotherium? I must protest! I did thank you for the Pocket Wall suggestion. I don't think you gave me any beta as such but clarified that I'd used the correct holds after I'd done it. So thank you for that.

It's a great 7A...

[lagerstarfish]

I am at Burbage South.
There is a pair of ravens croaking away.
It sounds like they are saying "Will Hunt..  huh huh huh huh"
"Yeeeah..... Yeh"

[shark]

I can remember locking down the left hand, heel on over to the right, and reaching a crimp dish for the right hand. Is that not it?

I swung left heel into the MRLH pocket, up for a sloper left hand then do a lot of thrashing and udging, putting your right hand back down to press out on key from memory.

I just use a toe in MRLH pocket and then turn my LH into a press and press out to get the left side of my hip Over the lip which gives me enough height to get the left dish at the top of the shallow dish then typically go up with my RH to obvious sloper then try to udge up but typically I’m too stretched out and start losing contact with my left toe and come off.

Have tried to turn my RH into a press but too out of balance and come off. Going again further left with my LH to the very slopey shelf means I can keep the weight on my toe and do a bit more udging but it’s a dreadful hold.

Surprised you can do the move off a heel as it would be poor and wouldn’t give as much stretch as a toe.

[nai]

It's been while so memory might not be quite right

Edit: Remembered I have video of it, looks like heel then toe..

[lagerstarfish]

Weighed myself this morning and if anything the needle was closer to 70kg.

With your stats, the only thing you should be allowed to downgrade are problems on your own board.

70kg FFS!

[36chambers]

Weighed myself this morning and if anything the needle was closer to 70kg.

With your stats, the only thing you should be allowed to downgrade are problems on your own board.

70kg FFS!

It gets worse, I've never seen anyone with such slim, yet strong, fingers. It's almost unbelievably how he's never had a finger injury despite consistently jumping straight onto hard crimpy problems without warming up.

Just imagine how hard Ondra would climb if he had Will's body. 10a sport would have happened years ago.

[Fiend]

So he avoids wasting skin and energy on easy sandbag warm-up problems too?? Tactics as well as talent.

Nai, nice cut loose on that. Is the chalk ball to block seepage or just for a quick LH chalk?

[nai]

So he avoids wasting skin and energy on easy sandbag warm-up problems too?? Tactics as well as talent.

tomtom does the same, token hang off an easy problem (target -.5 is fine) then straight down to business.  First few attempts spent wondering whay it feels so hard

Nai, nice cut loose on that. Is the chalk ball to block seepage or just for a quick LH chalk?

You mean, floppy core, it's pretty standard to do that I think. Chalk ball was supposed to be for chalking up, I was able to hang and chalk both hands while working it but couldn't manage that on the link. It seemed a good odea at the time but why I didn't chalk thighs for a quick slap or simply use a chalk bag I have no idea.

[Doylo]

Weighed myself this morning and if anything the needle was closer to 70kg.

With your stats, the only thing you should be allowed to downgrade are problems on your own board.

70kg FFS!

It gets worse, I've never seen anyone with such slim, yet strong, fingers. It's almost unbelievably how he's never had a finger injury despite consistently jumping straight onto hard crimpy problems without warming up.

Just imagine how hard Ondra would climb if he had Will's body. 10a sport would have happened years ago.

Ondra would be nothing without his ostrich neck.

[Fiend]

Ogs and I have speculated that it must give him an advantage for onsighting - his own mini-periscope craning around to get perspective and spot sequences.

[Doylo]

Can prob give himself a BJ too.

[lagerstarfish]

Can prob give himself a BJ too.

only 6C according to Will Hunt