[Will Hunt]

T - evening at the Depot. Some of the new purples are a doddle, some are the living end. Didn't really feel like I got up anything particularly hard.

Sat - Operation Downgrade The Peak is in effect.
A crack team of Yorkshire downgraders descended on Burbage. Me, dunnyg, footwork, 36chambers, 8c Jim, #sammarks, Warbs, Boj, etc etc

Warmed up and got on Velvet Crab. Tough! Had to try quite hard just to stay on with the slopers feeling a bit ungenerous in the sun. Said "last go" to myself and found a different foot sequence which cracked it and did it next go. Hilarious scenes as Bojan (who can climb 8A if he's an inch from the ground, and struggles with 4a if he isn't) got through the hard bit multiple times, and even jumped off with his hand over the top, was heckled mercilessly, as was everyone else.

Then on to Boyager. The pads were assembled and I jumped on. Clearly, this is a bit of a gift for those with the arms and legs for it. I flashed through to the big holds at the lip, at which point Jim started to crow "here it comes! Here it comes!". I opened my mind to the downgrading spirits that surrounded us unseen and channeled them through me. 6C+.

Monochrome. After a false start this went 2nd go. A 7A/+ disguised as a 7B. Quite apart from that, this must be one of the best problems I've ever done. I'm racking my brains to think of something that isn't perfect about it and there's nothing. Just absolutely perfect. Gorgeous holds, an obvious starting point, a really cool top out, switching the heels back and forth. Magnificent. Almost beyond belief that it's not even 10 years old.

I persuaded a small group to head to Burbage South for The Alliance and off we trooped. We put the pads down and I did it first go, making shameless use of every last centimetre of wingspan I possess. Coming down from the problem, I looked around with some guilt at the stump-armed no-hopers that I'd dragged along. A fellow traveler who had joined us got his hand over the top, fell off, and planted himself coccyx first onto the boulder behind the block. Fortunately, my first instinct that he would never walk again was quickly refuted as he "walked it off", screaming in agony as he did so. Much to my amazement, he impressed us by getting back on it and doing it next go. Heroic.

The last deed of the day was to have a look at Desparete. Needless to say, the downgrade train was immediately derailed and we finished with the left arete of Triangle Wall as the sun went down.

Whadda day.

[tomtom]

M: Church Crag - with Nai and Dolly - was to be the rematch and send of Gullivers Travels but it didnt happen for any of us. Good session..

We; Back at Church for 90 min on my way home. Close on Pinch hitter but ran out of steam.

Fr: Not great forecast and limited time - so an hour at the Depot - great 45 min on the 50 doing two problems I’d been working for a few weeks. Felt trashed. Is this the CrossFit of climbing?

Sa: Having behaved myself on Friday and saturday morning, was given a late afternoon pass. Decided to avoid the crowds in the Peak - and headed to a deserted Blackstone. It was green and wet in places, and very cold. I got frustrated and made some small improvements on a couple of problems and went backwards on others pinging off. Was a bit arsed off, but reminded myself that its always good to get out. And was rewarded by a couple of deer darting across my path on the walk back out and leaping the tussocks back up towards the edge...

Su: Murk and dank here in Manchester - family day with friends. Good stuff.

A nice week - though not as prodictive in doing new problems - but enjoyable none the less.

Man - it looked like it was busy at Curbar on Sat - had three separate pics of people doing bad lip on my FB timeline...

[Will Hunt]

Tom, surely you of all people should feel welcome in Lank Club?

[tomtom]

Tom, surely you of all people should feel welcome in Lank Club?

It didn’t seem very inclusive 😃

[tomtom]

Not Lower club Shark? 😂

[shark]

11.4-5 Average 160.1 up 0.3lbs 

M.Afternoon. Foundry. Auto belay to warm up then a bit of campussing (still rubbish) and attempting Oak throw moves on woody. Quick go on Wave. Would have done more but Nick texted suggesting Tor following morning

T.Morning. AM Tor. Much wetter than Friday. Grim drizzly weather but as Nick said we’ve been here when it’s worse. Got stuck into Bens and rewarded with linking first two moves. However, was more stretched out than expected to get foot on top of pinch and do kick move so will have to work this next session. Was hoping to do laps on Tin Of but too wet.
Eve. Evening. Fingerboard. Below par duration hangs session. Interpreted it as a reason to take two rest days

W.

T.

F. Afternoon. PM Quick visit to Tor. Pair of youths at the crag on Bens playing rap. Fortunately (for them) they turned it off as I approached. They’d seen one of my vids and were keen for beta. Got involved and sorted out move 3. Best go was move 2 into initiating ninja kick which obviously I’ve done before. Gave one of the youths (Will?) a lift back. Next time will sort out the cross through without second kneebar then that will be all the individual moves done without kneebars.
Evening. Foundry. Freebie test with Nick Sillem using the strain gauge. Arms much stronger than fingers and as I suspected not far off being able to do a one armer (pulled 80kg) Repeaters also unsurprisingly showed I had low power endurance at the moment. Based on results Nick made some recommendations including a type of finger training ‘overcoming isometrics’ which I’ll give a go. Be useful to get a retest in 6 weeks

S.

S. PM Glorious day - what a change from
Monday. Blue skies and about 4 degrees. Fully intended to go to Gardoms but judging by road traffic figured it would probably be rammed so initially went to Tor. Only Matthew there. After a dozen attempts got the cross through move three times in a row. That means I’ve done all the individual moves on Bens without kneebars now. Linking that 6 move section a different story though. Had some light left so swing by Gardoms and there were about 8 people there (apparently 20 earlier). Soon down to 3 then just me and the dogs. Had about a dozen attempts from standing. Can get the goodish sloper at the back of the small shallow rib with my LH and the poor sloper with my RH every time but then am stuck and can’t udge up. Did seem to make a little more udging progress using the sloper further left but needs similar Baltic temps to make it usable


PS if anyone left a Bouldering bucket at Marks Roof then get in touch

[duncan]

Simon, sounds like a decent week. 

STG: enjoy climbing, try hard three times a week.
MTG: embrace sport-climbing; RP 7b+,
LTG: classic sea-cliff (or similar) E5 before 7.06.2020.

M - 10km walk, shoulder strength stuff.
T - Westway bouldering. Three mauve  ‘V3/4’s.
W - Shoulder strength.
T - Shoulder strength. Westway routes to 6c, 2.5 mins on / 3.5 mins off for an hour, failed at 6c+.  This was a bit unplanned PE, not quite sure how it happened, but a good benchmark to reassess in a few months.
F - Shoulder strength.
S - Portland with csl. Glorious weather. On the sheltered east coast (Cheyne Weares): it was shorts for some and tops-off for most. Several teams in attendance but fortunately only one of them trying Road Rage and had already hung the draws on it! Warmed-up on Cruise Control, then got down to work.  Did all the moves and linked from the start to just below the big sidepull and from just above the big sidepull to the top. Doing it with one hang is the next step and feels realistic. A red-point is another question entirely, there are no rests and barely a shake-out. Many tales of dropping this eyeballing the chains and I can see how.
S - Shoulder strength. 10km walk.

A good week and a great day on Portland with csl. Road Rage is a little steeper than my ideal but the climbing is excellent and not seemingly too fickle conditions-wise (compared to Wallsend for example). It’s even TRable if I’m feeling keen and partnerless. It’s probably the hardest sport route I’ve tried and it will be interesting to see how much more progress is achievable if I put some time in on it. It would be good to get on it again before too long but two months of single parenting starts shortly and I foresee lots of fingerboarding and not much else.

Plan: more of this, social obligations permitting.

[nai]

STG: Moonboard 7A, Depot 50 6B, Font 7C
Spring 2020 Lime Font 7C.

M - Church with Dolly and TT.  Main aim was Gullivers Travels. Didn't do it but came close and closer than the guys, and we all know what's most important.  Had a few throws at The Shield which I somehow managed. Battered.

T -
AM
Calisthenics mostly push circuit - planche progressions, L/V sits, frog/crane stands, hand stand progressions, wall walks, dips, TRX pressups.
Fast pullups
2x50 rep KB swings
Found the Turkish Get Up in the back of the cupboard and gave it a dust off.
Core
PM
bit of stretching

W - good stretch

Th - Stuck in the house til lunchtime then whizzed out to Burbage, warm up at Remergence and tried Blind Date briefly but still can't get psyched for it. Connies didn't seem great.  Off to The Terrace as the rain threatened, closest yet to start move and move to slot but after 10 minutes and having fired off a couple of times it felt like there was more to be lost than gained and I hoiked it back to the car with 2 minutes to spare.
Back home managed 6 of 7 of the problems it took me October-December to climb, in half an hour. Kept it short as I planned to be out Friday
Couple of Core circuits

F - Forecasts, eh. Foundry then...  Ah well, I was due a Moonboard session. Quite enjoyed it, lost a bit of the pop that I had last session, maybe I shouldn't leave it a month between board sessions. Christmas, etc...
Bit of core but remembered I was going to do legs back home - Squat, OH squat, DL, hamstring extensions and drags, heavy lunges.

S sore. Stretch.

S had intended to take 2 rest days but a late window opened and it seemed daft not to take it given the weather. Plan A was Rowtor but couldn't face traffic so ended up back at Burbage and the Terrace. So close to getting the move to the slot, had fingers in it until foot blew. Improved on first move too. Connies were coming good but I was starting to feel shoulders and that lead to thinking about being out on Monday when a couple of guys turned up and that was my cue to leave. Heading to Mermaid but bumped into Dolly on the way and went to try All Sit Down. Did a move but fingers too cold really for tiny crimps like that. Nice sunset though.
Quick core circuit.

Felt like I missed opportunities this week, could have organised things a bit better and made more of it. 

[Will Hunt]

I almost forgot to mention that I weighed myself on Monday and discovered myself to be 79kg, some 5kg heavier than I was whenever the last time I weighed myself was.
The cafe breakfasts, whole fat milk, and reduced exercise of parenthood has clearly taken it's toll.
I tried to adapt to my new life as a fat bastard by cutting down on sugary stuff and exercising some portion control.
Weighed myself this morning and if anything the needle was closer to 70kg. Woe is me.

[Duma]

9kg in a week is some serious portion control.

[yetix]

M: MCC, density lock offs and some 1 arm lock offs whilst warming up. Then did a light sport session
T: Rest
W: Got on Grit for the first time in maybe 6 months, went to Suavito. Could get to the move to the lip everytime but just couldn't commit to actually trying to hold the lip. Will go back soon with skin and possibly more pads. Went to Bin Lardens Roof after and flashed this. Then tried soft on the G. Managed to get my hand over the top a few times but never really felt close.
T: Boulder UK, couple of hours on the 45 board. Went through a little circuit of problems on the 55 in the last 20 minutes or so.
F: Rest
S: Went upto the Punk, managed to do the stand in a handful of goes, skin was thin so opted for checking another crag out rather than risk splitting on the sit. Went to the Caseg boulder (crossing the river was interesting!) Did Caseg Groove second go, and was able to do the first 2 moves of the Gimp, but skin felt woeful on it. Another to go back for soon!
S: Milestones, sent Marylin Monroe in a couple of goes whilst warming up then went across to the Pit, failed epicly with the Pit and Pendulum (the RH is so sharp?!) before having a few goes refamiliarising myself with Harvey Oswald sit, did all the moves in decent links in 15 mins, but with skin in such short supply opted to save it for another day than sacrifice future sessions this week.

[Will Hunt]

Damn. 69Kg. End of the week, closer to 70Kg.

[spidermonkey09]

M - rested.

T - Station. Warmed up well and felt better on the steep stuff but arm started to feel tweaky so sacked it off a bit earlier than I would have liked.

W - max hangs. 22.5kg pleasingly straightforward. Core afterwards.

T - max hangs, 23.75kg. Felt ok, which suggests my benchmarking session last week might have undersold things a bit. Oh well, steady increase in loading probably no bad thing. Went to the Tower afterwards and did a few nice things spoilt by shit setting.

F - rest. Drove to Peak.

S - Yorkshire crew descended on Burbage. While Will flashed everything giving the lie to his view that he is shit, I got more wound up by the second after finding myself literally unable to even pull on to three problems in succession by dint of having tiny arms. The Alliance marked the low point; I don't see how this is possible for a 7a climber who isn't a giant. You'd have to be very strong to find an alternative sequence on that. Briefly tried Desperate which was good fun. Lots of drinking in the evening.

S - Curbar. Really warm in the sun but no chance of complaining after the shitshow of the last few weekends. Did Bad Lip second go which was my first 7 of this season. Shame its shit, but got to start somewhere. Veale Thing behind Gorilla Warfare is brilliant and not tricky, just a bit scary. After eviscerating my fingertip on Seans Arete I double taped it and moved along to Art of Japan. More reach-based ranting finally ended using a considerably harder sequence. Good problem.

The pebble shaped hole in my finger the only downer on a great weekend. Max hangs probably feasible this week if I tape up but otherwise might needs a few rest days.

[teestub]

Damn. 69Kg. End of the week, closer to 70Kg.

It’s amazing that we have different opinions on grades when we weigh a similar amount but you are approximately 1 metre taller 

[Will Hunt]

Not to mention vastly weaker!

[cheque]

Damn. 69Kg. End of the week, closer to 70Kg.

It’s amazing that we have different opinions on grades when we weigh a similar amount but you are approximately 1 metre taller 

Will’s apparently on course to be 10kg lighter than you be the end of the week too. 

[Yossarian]

S - Portland with csl. Glorious weather. On the sheltered east coast (Cheyne Weares): it was shorts for some and tops-off for most. Several teams in attendance but fortunately only one of them trying Road Rage and had already hung the draws on it! Warmed-up on Cruise Control, then got down to work.  Did all the moves and linked from the start to just below the big sidepull and from just above the big sidepull to the top. Doing it with one hang is the next step and feels realistic. A red-point is another question entirely, there are no rests and barely a shake-out. Many tales of dropping this eyeballing the chains and I can see how.
S - Shoulder strength. 10km walk.

A good week and a great day on Portland with csl. Road Rage is a little steeper than my ideal but the climbing is excellent and not seemingly too fickle conditions-wise (compared to Wallsend for example). It’s even TRable if I’m feeling keen and partnerless. It’s probably the hardest sport route I’ve tried and it will be interesting to see how much more progress is achievable if I put some time in on it. It would be good to get on it again before too long but two months of single parenting starts shortly and I foresee lots of fingerboarding and not much else.

Plan: more of this, social obligations permitting.

I am definitely up for RR this year, though I am way too heavy and unfit at the moment. But with some work I might be ready for end of March / April?

[Footwork]

The pebble shaped hole in my finger the only downer on a great weekend. Max hangs probably feasible this week if I tape up but otherwise might needs a few rest days.

Get in line for the max hangs. My knuckles have scabbed up in the ideal half crimp position.

[shark]

Simon, sounds like a decent week. 

Thanks yeah. Easier week in order this week I think.

[spidermonkey09]

Had some light left so swing by Gardoms and there were about 8 people there (apparently 20 earlier). Soon down to 3 then just me and the dogs. Had about a dozen attempts from standing. Can get the goodish sloper at the back of the small shallow rib with my LH and the poor sloper with my RH every time but then am stuck and can’t udge up. Did seem to make a little more udging progress using the sloper further left but needs similar Baltic temps to make it usable

Was this on Mark's Roof itself?

[JohnM]

Weight 10st7lb

M: Aerocap(?) - up-down-up on the lead wall 6b/+ for 6 sets.

T: AM - 10km run on the flat. Fastest pace yet but still not sub 40 minutes. PM - running hill sets. 0.5km x 5.

W: Travelling back to the UK.

T: First full day of work since Xmas/New Year. No motivation to train anything afterwards.

F: BoulderUK. First good bouldering session since my elbow injury. I felt like I could try really hard without consciously/subconsciously holding back. Contact strength is coming back. I love the setting at this place. Interesting moves but still a strong focus on basic power/finger strength. 3 x V7s, 4 x V6s, 6 x V5s.   

S: No training. North End at home and then out for dinner.

S: Bob Graham Round legs 1 and 2 with Rob G. Amazing sunrise and winter sun over Skiddaw and Blencathra. We tried to stick to an 18 hour schedule which turned out to be way over ambitious and with lack of pace and taking some bad lines we were dropping loads of time which added up to almost an hour and a half in the end. After basking in the winter sun coming down off Blencathra we entered full winter over the Helvellyn range with more snow, poor visibility and icy winds! After feeling good for the first half, my running legs stopped working and it was a bit of a struggle for the whole second half. I also felt a bit pukey. I am still trying to find the right balance between avoiding any blood sugar lows but not feeling sick from too many gels/bars.

A good week despite a day of travelling and feeling too unmotivated to train after a full day of work! I am happy to be able to try hard climbing again. It was also good to recce the first half of the Bob Graham again but I was hoping to feel better than I did. The terrain on that thing is brutal, particularly in winter, and it really grinds you down! Now my elbow is better I need to start adding some more climbing training in, including finger boarding, campusing and shoulder work.

[Coops_13]

M: Home Core Workout. 300 core movements. Apartment Gym later. 10 mins elliptical, stretching

T: Saw wrist surgeon, suspects one of injuries is TFCC, ordered MRI. Apartment Gym later. 10 mins elliptical. Core workout - 300 core movements

T: Physio in morning got me doing more stability exercises and pull-ups were OK. Still unsure of wrist as I've been here before…
Apartment Gym. 10 mins elliptical. Core workout - 300 core movements. Some pull-ups to finish, seemed OK

S: Apartment Gym. 10 mins elliptical. Core workout - 300 core movements. Press-ups on sideways kettle bell ok, tried pull-ups. Nope. Pain again, what did I say…

Wrist feeling bad again, never-ending merry go round of feeling better then worse. I think maybe it starts to feel better then PT jumping on that to get me loading it as this has been going on for 4.5 months... Maybe I need to get it to no pain then add in a two-week further rest before starting load. Hopefully MRI will give me some answers...

I've been pretty good this week with cardio, core and eating so Christmas weight is starting to drop. Finally found a core workout I don't hate...

[shark]

Was this on Mark's Roof itself?

Yes

[Will Hunt]

I can remember locking down the left hand, heel on over to the right, and reaching a crimp dish for the right hand. Is that not it?

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - boxing bag, power.
Tue - rest.
Wed - legs, push ups, ab wheel, pull ups, clean and press circuit x5.
Thu - clean and press from ground: 20, 16, 12, 8, 4 and back up, 1' rests.
Fri - weights.
Sat - rest.
Sun - light boxing bag, dumbbell complexes.

[nai]

I can remember locking down the left hand, heel on over to the right, and reaching a crimp dish for the right hand. Is that not it?

I swung left heel into the MRLH pocket, up for a sloper left hand then do a lot of thrashing and udging, putting your right hand back down to press out on key from memory.

[Duma]

Will if you can reach straight to the crimp dish you're even lankier than I thought.

[Bradders]

M - hour and a half or so fiddy board session at Leeds Depot. Been off it for a few weeks. Just did all my warm ups then worked on but didn't do a couple of the 7As and 7Bs from the app.

T - rest

W - Brimham mid-afternoon. Basically took two big pads for a 1.5hr walk...everything was either damp, completely soaked or being subjected to very strong and freezing cold wind. Felt really weak and hadn't eaten enough; was literally blown over by a gust of wind at one point. Exhausted and frustrated when I eventually made it over to Crimpy Roof. Just messed around really but did the moves on To You Too. Then split a tip.

T - Leeds Depot. Few purples and a couple of mid-20s pinks then fiddy board. As Monday trying to work my way through the 7As-7Bs. Did one of the problems I'd tried on Monday and another from two moves in so full thing will go soon. Tried a few others and made progress. Climbed for quite a while, did lots of difficult feeling moves and stopped when powered out (although did another pink and pinged off a yellow before leaving).

F - 20 mins yoga at lunch

S - now we're talking. Stunner of a day. Up to Stanage North. Someone had taken a poo next to New York, New York and left paper everywhere, so did the stand and sit very quickly before moving on! Met friends at Beauty and soaked up their beta to do it 2nd go. Lovely padding. Then Low Rider. Normally have quite a good head for sequences but not on this thing! Think I'm on fifth session now but they're so spread out (3 years or so) that I can't for the life of me remember what works, and perhaps more importantly what doesn't, from one to the next! So starting from scratch spent ages re-working out the moves. Eventually found a completely solid way of getting both hands on the jug, but couldn't hold a cut bringing feet out so spent even longer sorting this out. Worked it out eventually. Consistent at least both getting to the jug and going from there to the top. Finished trying and failing to do The Green Room Slap. Crikey it's a big move!

S - half an hour stretching in the evening

More walking than climbing this week! Psyched for Low Rider, need to get back on it as soon as possible.

[Will Hunt]

Maybe my memory is playing tricks on me. I just remember humping up to the dish and just about making it.

[205Chris]

Then Low Rider. Normally have quite a good head for sequences but not on this thing! Think I'm on fifth session now but they're so spread out (3 years or so) that I can't for the life of me remember what works, and perhaps more importantly what doesn't, from one to the next! So starting from scratch spent ages re-working out the moves. Eventually found a completely solid way of getting both hands on the jug, but couldn't hold a cut bringing feet out so spent even longer sorting this out. Consistent at least both getting to the jug and going from there to the top.

This was pretty much my experience on Low Rider too!

[Footwork]

Then Low Rider. Normally have quite a good head for sequences but not on this thing! Think I'm on fifth session now but they're so spread out (3 years or so) that I can't for the life of me remember what works, and perhaps more importantly what doesn't, from one to the next! So starting from scratch spent ages re-working out the moves. Eventually found a completely solid way of getting both hands on the jug, but couldn't hold a cut bringing feet out so spent even longer sorting this out. Worked it out eventually.

It really annoys me when I spend a session re-working beta and could have walked away with the send. For problems I'm really keen to go back to I now write micro beta in a little book. I find it's better than video as you can explain in detail what worked well, body positioning wise etc that video doesn't pick up.

For example on Fonz I have "when dropping down to left hand pinch, get heel on and get face by the pinch hold. Stare at it whilst dropping down and squeeze!" Seemed to make the difference...

[Bradders]

It really annoys me when I spend a session re-working beta and could have walked away with the send. For problems I'm really keen to go back to I now write micro beta in a little book. I find it's better than video as you can explain in detail what worked well, body positioning wise etc that video doesn't pick up.

Tell me about it...normally like I say I'm okay but seem to have a particular brain fade with this one! Actually went one further with writing it down; took a photo, numbered all the holds, then wrote out my sequence! Not my idea, although I think it was said in jest and I've taken it too far

Anyway it works; was back on it yesterday evening and fell off with my hand in the break before the jug! I blame gale force winds.

Stare at it

Love when looking in a specific direction makes the difference 

[remus]

For problems I'm really keen to go back to I now write micro beta in a little book. I find it's better than video as you can explain in detail what worked well, body positioning wise etc that video doesn't pick up.

A method I've found pretty good for remembering beta is videoing myself describing the beta, with all those little mimed moves etc. that you'd do when describing it to a mate. Personally I find it hard to write beta down in a clear and concise fashion and when I come back to read it I often struggle to interpret what I meant. Maybe that says more about my writing skills!

[Bradders]

That's next level stuff Remus haha

[tomtom]

That's next level stuff Remus haha

I’ve sort of done that if it’s something super specific. I went back to try new rose again at Farleton last yea (did it 7-8 years back) and handily has a picture of how my fingers were specifically stacked in the dimples/pockets. Turned  out very useful as I couldn’t remember.

[duncan]

I am definitely up for RR this year, though I am way too heavy and unfit at the moment. But with some work I might be ready for end of March / April?

Great. Let’s keep this in mind. I’m also trying to interest AJM so we could have a full set of busy Dads.

Coops: all rather frustrating. Is there a pull-up weight you are confident could manage without reinjuring yourself? This could be much much less than full body-weight. Your aim should be to maintain consistency in loading through your wrist rather than the stop-go that’s currently happening.

remus et al: thanks for the sequence memorising suggestions. Not sure I could keep a straight face whilst being filmed doing the beta dance but it’s a great idea.

[Will Hunt]

That's next level stuff Remus haha

I’ve sort of done that if it’s something super specific. I went back to try new rose again at Farleton last yea (did it 7-8 years back) and handily has a picture of how my fingers were specifically stacked in the dimples/pockets. Turned  out very useful as I couldn’t remember.

I do hope you keep that file in your Google Drive. As and when I go back there I'm planning on finding that photo so I can see how to best get three fingers in play on the hold.

I always write this stuff down in my UKC logbook, where other people might benefit from it either by using the beta (I've certainly used beta that I've found on there before) or laughing at my nerdiness.

It made a real difference on South West Overhang. It was crucial for me to not use the huge pocket foothold, but to instead use a little pebbled divot just next to it. I'd never have remembered that between sessions.

[tomtom]

Last time I gave you some beta/advice you hoovered it up without so much as a thank you and then downgraded what I’d been working on!!

I’ll keep my picture thanks xx

[Will Hunt]

The Chirotherium? I must protest! I did thank you for the Pocket Wall suggestion. I don't think you gave me any beta as such but clarified that I'd used the correct holds after I'd done it. So thank you for that.

It's a great 7A...

[lagerstarfish]

I am at Burbage South.
There is a pair of ravens croaking away.
It sounds like they are saying "Will Hunt..  huh huh huh huh"
"Yeeeah..... Yeh"

[shark]

I can remember locking down the left hand, heel on over to the right, and reaching a crimp dish for the right hand. Is that not it?

I swung left heel into the MRLH pocket, up for a sloper left hand then do a lot of thrashing and udging, putting your right hand back down to press out on key from memory.

I just use a toe in MRLH pocket and then turn my LH into a press and press out to get the left side of my hip Over the lip which gives me enough height to get the left dish at the top of the shallow dish then typically go up with my RH to obvious sloper then try to udge up but typically I’m too stretched out and start losing contact with my left toe and come off.

Have tried to turn my RH into a press but too out of balance and come off. Going again further left with my LH to the very slopey shelf means I can keep the weight on my toe and do a bit more udging but it’s a dreadful hold.

Surprised you can do the move off a heel as it would be poor and wouldn’t give as much stretch as a toe.

[nai]

It's been while so memory might not be quite right

Edit: Remembered I have video of it, looks like heel then toe..

[lagerstarfish]

Weighed myself this morning and if anything the needle was closer to 70kg.

With your stats, the only thing you should be allowed to downgrade are problems on your own board.

70kg FFS!

[36chambers]

Weighed myself this morning and if anything the needle was closer to 70kg.

With your stats, the only thing you should be allowed to downgrade are problems on your own board.

70kg FFS!

It gets worse, I've never seen anyone with such slim, yet strong, fingers. It's almost unbelievably how he's never had a finger injury despite consistently jumping straight onto hard crimpy problems without warming up.

Just imagine how hard Ondra would climb if he had Will's body. 10a sport would have happened years ago.

[Fiend]

So he avoids wasting skin and energy on easy sandbag warm-up problems too?? Tactics as well as talent.

Nai, nice cut loose on that. Is the chalk ball to block seepage or just for a quick LH chalk?

[nai]

So he avoids wasting skin and energy on easy sandbag warm-up problems too?? Tactics as well as talent.

tomtom does the same, token hang off an easy problem (target -.5 is fine) then straight down to business.  First few attempts spent wondering whay it feels so hard

Nai, nice cut loose on that. Is the chalk ball to block seepage or just for a quick LH chalk?

You mean, floppy core, it's pretty standard to do that I think. Chalk ball was supposed to be for chalking up, I was able to hang and chalk both hands while working it but couldn't manage that on the link. It seemed a good odea at the time but why I didn't chalk thighs for a quick slap or simply use a chalk bag I have no idea.

[Doylo]

Weighed myself this morning and if anything the needle was closer to 70kg.

With your stats, the only thing you should be allowed to downgrade are problems on your own board.

70kg FFS!

It gets worse, I've never seen anyone with such slim, yet strong, fingers. It's almost unbelievably how he's never had a finger injury despite consistently jumping straight onto hard crimpy problems without warming up.

Just imagine how hard Ondra would climb if he had Will's body. 10a sport would have happened years ago.

Ondra would be nothing without his ostrich neck.

[Fiend]

Ogs and I have speculated that it must give him an advantage for onsighting - his own mini-periscope craning around to get perspective and spot sequences.

[Doylo]

Can prob give himself a BJ too.

[lagerstarfish]

Can prob give himself a BJ too.

only 6C according to Will Hunt

[Coops_13]

Coops: all rather frustrating. Is there a pull-up weight you are confident could manage without reinjuring yourself? This could be much much less than full body-weight. Your aim should be to maintain consistency in loading through your wrist rather than the stop-go that’s currently happening.

Potentially, I have a pulley so could set this up in my apartment gym. I think one of the issues may be the pull-up bar is so thin I need to grip it more. Off to amazon to see what they can offer as a remedy...

[Fiend]

Chalk ball was supposed to be for chalking up, I was able to hang and chalk both hands while working it but couldn't manage that on the link. It seemed a good odea at the time but why I didn't chalk thighs for a quick slap or simply use a chalk bag I have no idea.

At first I thought it was drying the hole, then you don't use the hole. One for the "devious tricks and tactics" thread .

Coops good luck with finding something that can work with your wrist.