Andy Cave showed up with a tape measure and sheepishly measured the distance between holds on Mecca to accurate replica problems on his board.
Lengthy body weight hangs mainly halfcrimp and a couple of drags. Best hang 33secs half crimp on ergo edge.
Quote from: shark on January 12, 2020, 06:47:03 pmAndy Cave showed up with a tape measure and sheepishly measured the distance between holds on Mecca to accurate replica problems on his board.Gold mine information.
Tried the LH start, suggestion that non-tall folk might need to start off two pads. Well I sat on two pads and could only just reach one hold. Gave up on that quite quickly
Quote from: shark on January 12, 2020, 06:47:03 pm Lengthy body weight hangs mainly halfcrimp and a couple of drags. Best hang 33secs half crimp on ergo edge.Is this some sort of trad climbing training for placing gear or something?
Quote from: Wood FT on January 12, 2020, 07:45:17 pmQuote from: shark on January 12, 2020, 06:47:03 pmAndy Cave showed up with a tape measure and sheepishly measured the distance between holds on Mecca to accurate replica problems on his board.Gold mine information.I'm sure there was a picture in an old guidebook of someone making foil imprints of holds on tuppence to remake it on a board
if anyone wants any beta for DIA then here goes. firsty forget using the good starting hold on the arete as a sidepull, instead use the bottom seam of it round the left of the arete as a normal horizontal straight hold. can't remember if i crimp it or openhand it thumbpinching the arete. right hand goes on something on the other side, whatever. left foot somewhere obvious, then right foot goes up and heelhooks the big sidepull over right - you then pull straight up for that hold on the arete, then as normal jump up and sit on your left foot to get that hold out left. This also works well for climbing into it from the righthand sitter - its basically no harder. Dunno about the left sitter. The advantage of this is you don't have to fight any kinda barndoor that you may get if pull on on the RH side of the arete then trying to fall round the arete style. Question?
Then tried it using the standard beta and got on better, but struggled to get my right foot around the arete. Beta/advice welcome.
Squawk sticks in my head for some reason.
Does anyone know the history of this then? How did the standard DIA problem become the weird pivot version? The trad route must always have been climbed staying on the RHS? Why is Andy's Problem not called DIA and the pivot thing a quirky variation?
Quote from: Will Hunt on January 13, 2020, 11:23:33 amDoes anyone know the history of this then? How did the standard DIA problem become the weird pivot version? The trad route must always have been climbed staying on the RHS? Why is Andy's Problem not called DIA and the pivot thing a quirky variation?I'm pretty sure the route DIA was originally via the standard DIA stander. Difference in landings pre-mats may have influenced this.A large chunk fell off the start sidepull on the RHS of the arete, maybe twenty years ago. I don't know how this affected the difficultly of the various variants.I've done Andy's and both the sitters on DIA and I don't recall DIA being harder than Andy's (it was a while ago though).My sequence on DIA is different to that vid or Dave's beta. I pull on as per your vid but hang low and flag my right foot round left to hook the lip of the roof on the left side of the arete. From a tight lock on your left arm I then reach over into a guppy (RH thumb pointing up), turn lefthand to a crimp then swing round onto lhs.