Some week that Nick!
Can't seem to login on a computer, weirdly. Anyone else?
Yes, can't log in on laptop (firefox) or home desktop (chrome). Telephone (chrome) and work desktop (chrome) both fine. Been like this for a year or two.
Quote from: Bonjoy on January 13, 2020, 01:51:25 pmQuote from: Will Hunt on January 13, 2020, 11:23:33 amDoes anyone know the history of this then? How did the standard DIA problem become the weird pivot version? The trad route must always have been climbed staying on the RHS? Why is Andy's Problem not called DIA and the pivot thing a quirky variation?I'm pretty sure the route DIA was originally via the standard DIA stander. Difference in landings pre-mats may have influenced this.A large chunk fell off the start sidepull on the RHS of the arete, maybe twenty years ago. I don't know how this affected the difficultly of the various variants.I've done Andy's and both the sitters on DIA and I don't recall DIA being harder than Andy's (it was a while ago though).My sequence on DIA is different to that vid or Dave's beta. I pull on as per your vid but hang low and flag my right foot round left to hook the lip of the roof on the left side of the arete. From a tight lock on your left arm I then reach over into a guppy (RH thumb pointing up), turn lefthand to a crimp then swing round onto lhs.That sounds like an interesting sequence! So, just to elaborate on that, do you do the first left hand movement to bump it up the arete? Or stay on the juggy sidepull low down? And when you say you get your RH as a guppy, do you mean your palm is on the LHS of the arete? Similar to how I have my hand from 17 seconds onwards? If the right hand sidepull at the start has become significantly bigger then this might be significant for Andy's as you get a very comfortable heel behind it after you've stood up. This keeps you in a steady position while you move your hands up the arete and RH rib.
Quote from: Will Hunt on January 13, 2020, 11:23:33 amDoes anyone know the history of this then? How did the standard DIA problem become the weird pivot version? The trad route must always have been climbed staying on the RHS? Why is Andy's Problem not called DIA and the pivot thing a quirky variation?I'm pretty sure the route DIA was originally via the standard DIA stander. Difference in landings pre-mats may have influenced this.A large chunk fell off the start sidepull on the RHS of the arete, maybe twenty years ago. I don't know how this affected the difficultly of the various variants.I've done Andy's and both the sitters on DIA and I don't recall DIA being harder than Andy's (it was a while ago though).My sequence on DIA is different to that vid or Dave's beta. I pull on as per your vid but hang low and flag my right foot round left to hook the lip of the roof on the left side of the arete. From a tight lock on your left arm I then reach over into a guppy (RH thumb pointing up), turn lefthand to a crimp then swing round onto lhs.
Does anyone know the history of this then? How did the standard DIA problem become the weird pivot version? The trad route must always have been climbed staying on the RHS? Why is Andy's Problem not called DIA and the pivot thing a quirky variation?
Come back aim - Bishop in April with 36C. Fingers crossed it happens...
How tall are you, Liam? Do you want to do it by the campus method for the harder tick or is it a reach thing?If you can do it without cutting loose it will be much more manageable.
Quote from: Coops_13 on January 13, 2020, 03:17:56 pmCome back aim - Bishop in April with 36C. Fingers crossed it happens...Are you road tripping it?
Do what TomTom did. There were two key things that made that work for me. First, you might want to wear a flat shoe on your right foot. You have to slot the foot in and twist it so that it locks in tight. When you get it right it's bomber.Second, the right hand lip hold, I found it very helpful to crimp it, despite there not really being anything to crimp. Made the difference to how hard I could pull up.
Its also a really weirdly core dependant problem - and I'd often have 5-6 attempts then nothing would stick... feet would ping off everything. Core.
Quote from: tomtom on January 14, 2020, 06:28:25 pmIts also a really weirdly core dependant problem - and I'd often have 5-6 attempts then nothing would stick... feet would ping off everything. Core. Crazy how these horizontal roofs end up being so core dependent
LTG: classic sea-cliff* E5 before 7.06.2020.
Terry at Wringcliff Bay on the Exmoor Coast (https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=426323)
They’re not yet classics (I think I probably did the second ascents), but they deserve to be ‘cos they’re amongst the best routes I’ve done:El Draco at Bolt Tail in South Devon (https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=358318)andTerry at Wringcliff Bay on the Exmoor Coast (https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=426323)They are both quite committing outings, but fairly steady at the grade.
Quote from: duncan on January 13, 2020, 10:50:07 amLTG: classic sea-cliff* E5 before 7.06.2020. I know you’re not asking for recommendations, but I’m gonna give ‘em to you anyway.They’re not yet classics (I think I probably did the second ascents), but they deserve to be ‘cos they’re amongst the best routes I’ve done:El Draco at Bolt Tail in South Devon (https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=358318)