[Coops_13]

T: Apartment Gym. 10 mins elliptical. Squats up to 110 lb. Abridged Ab Ripper X - 200 core movements

T: Apartment Gym. 10 mins elliptical. Abridged Ab Ripper X - 200 core movements

S: Went down to Littleton to pick up new puppy only to receive a call to say the litter all had some kind of parasite so we had to wait another week  Both v disappointed so we had a drive into the mountains and ended up at Staunton State Park for a little walk (not dressed appropriately for the snow, picking up puppy attire != hiking attire). 1.85 miles, 359ft ascent. Only fell over twice and wrist doesn't seem any worse for it

S: Breckenridge Skiing. 19.6kft descent, 37 miles. Skied from highest charilift in North America, amazing skiing above the treeling. V cold and windy today. Skiing career will be on hold while we get adjusted to life with puppy come next weekend...

Still not climbing as my wrist injuries (two of them) continue to prevent it. They seem to see-saw with one feeling better and the other flaring up worse. I seem to have a tendonous type injury on the top radial side and a TFCC -related injury on the ulnar side. I think the wrist widget is helping. Two different PTs flummoxed, this second one I think has more of an idea. Seeing a surgeon tomorrow to try and get a proper diagnosis - trying my best to stay as far away from the blade as possible. Come back aim - Bishop in April with 36C. Fingers crossed it happens...

[Bradders]

Some week that Nick! 

Cheers, working my way through em

[andy_e]

Can't seem to login on a computer, weirdly. Anyone else?

Yes, can't log in on laptop (firefox) or home desktop (chrome). Telephone (chrome) and work desktop (chrome) both fine. Been like this for a year or two.

[Rob F]

Will - any reason why you can't go colour blind for one move? Get strong, no agro.

Not watched your vid as yet as eating my tea, but surely DIA is the most similar problem to Jason's Roof in Yorkshire. Aim for perfection in each move and you'll be up it no probs next time out...

[Rob F]

Oh yeh, and that Duck Pond Traverse is one of mine. Don't you dare go downgrading it!!! :-)

[JohnM]

After a long absence I come crawling humbly back into Power Club!

Weight 10st7lb - first weigh-in since Xmas. Happy to back at what I consider my baseline weight after all the food and booze!

M:

T: Shoulder recruitment and core (knee raises 2 sets, leg raises toe to bar each side 2 sets (I find this so hard!), L-sit leg raises 2 sets). Some finger boarding hanging the upper right and left second joint Beastmaker slots 1 armed. Bouldering indoors with various blues (V2-V4) and reds (V4-V6). First pain free climbing session since injuring a ligament in my elbow in the first half of November last year!

W: AM - 10km run on the flat. PM - hill run sets x 5 + a free run up to Rauschbrunnen hut and back. 11km in total.

T:

F: Shoulder recruitment in gym and core (knee raises 2 sets, leg raises toe to bar each side 2 sets, L-sit leg raises 2 sets). Some finger boarding hanging the upper right and left second joint Beastmaker slots 1 armed. Created a 12 move boulder (flashable) and climbed it 12 times on the minute. Failed part way through the penultimate repetition so probably a good level. Hamstring exercises in the gym on Swiss ball and leg raise weight machine.

S: Hill running day. Up to Aspachhutte and back down twice. 29km with 2000m height gain.

S: Outdoor climbing at Nassereith. Perfect winter conditions in the sun. Warmed up on a nice 7a I have done before, 7a+ second warm up (fail) and then a failed attempt to onsight the classic 7c Trioligie. Did this second go but don't have the flow back for outdoor climbing and was scared of falling in the relatively "run-out" parts at the top! Elbow quite sore afterwards.

Happy to be able to climb a bit more now and relatively pain free after an elbow injury last year. I don't seem to have lost as much as I had feared after having had the best part of the month off. Contact strength going dynamically to small holds has gone backwards. I always considered finger strength to be one of my strong points but seeing all these videos of people casually hanging the lower middle slot of the Beastmaker one armed I am starting to think I am delusional. I really struggle to hold this one armed for any meaningful length of time. I suspect a lot of this is due to weakness in my shoulder to hang in that position, particularly straight armed. I have started hanging the bigger slots one armed to hopefully train this position. I wonder whether training on these bigger slots, maybe with added weight, in combination with pulley assistance on the smaller middle slot will bring about better gains?

Running training is going well but I need to have a week off soon before I cross the threshold to injury. My left knee always feels a bit gammy after a hard training but recovers quickly but need to make sure I don't push it too far!

[spidermonkey09]

Yes, can't log in on laptop (firefox) or home desktop (chrome). Telephone (chrome) and work desktop (chrome) both fine. Been like this for a year or two.

Weirdly could log in today. Seems an intermittent problem for me at least.

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - rest.
Tue - rest.
Wed - trap bar DL, pull ups, overhead walk x9. Like this: DL x10, pull ups x5, 1' rest, 1' overhead carry, 1' rest, all over again. Very heavy session, brutal density. Tested briefly Lattice edge.
Thu - legs, pulley with barbell, bar work.
Fri - rest.
Sat - weights, nice session.
Sun - some easy climbing in a new gym. BM one arm hangs on small rungs. Loaded carries at home.

[Bonjoy]

Does anyone know the history of this then? How did the standard DIA problem become the weird pivot version? The trad route must always have been climbed staying on the RHS? Why is Andy's Problem not called DIA and the pivot thing a quirky variation?

I'm pretty sure the route DIA was originally via the standard DIA stander. Difference in landings pre-mats may have influenced this.
A large chunk fell off the start sidepull on the RHS of the arete, maybe twenty years ago. I don't know how this affected the difficultly of the various variants.
I've done Andy's and both the sitters on DIA and I don't recall DIA being harder than Andy's (it was a while ago though).
My sequence on DIA is different to that vid or Dave's beta. I pull on as per your vid but hang low and flag my right foot round left to hook the lip of the roof on the left side of the arete. From a tight lock on your left arm I then reach over into a guppy (RH thumb pointing up), turn lefthand to a crimp then swing round onto lhs.

That sounds like an interesting sequence! So, just to elaborate on that, do you do the first left hand movement to bump it up the arete? Or stay on the juggy sidepull low down? And when you say you get your RH as a guppy, do you mean your palm is on the LHS of the arete? Similar to how I have my hand from 17 seconds onwards?


If the right hand sidepull at the start has become significantly bigger then this might be significant for Andy's as you get a very comfortable heel behind it after you've stood up. This keeps you in a steady position while you move your hands up the arete and RH rib.

Sorry it's too long ago for me to be surere the lh hold, but looking at the vid I think I stayed low on the good hold. Yes, guppy with palm on lhs.

[SA Chris]

Come back aim - Bishop in April with 36C. Fingers crossed it happens...

Are you road tripping it?

[User deactivated.]

First post to marginal gains club. Hopefully this will help keep some degree of direction to my training. I do a fair bit of calisthenics/bodyweight training too which will have very little carryover to climbing but I enjoy it regardless.

Climbing STG: boulder 7C
progress: close on Hunters roof, the drey, the keel
Climbing LTG: get strong enough fingers to become well rounded at 7C
strengths: compression or tension moves, slabs
glaring weakness: finger strength!!!

m - max hangs + 15kg, then rings workout with slow muscle ups, front and back levers, iron cross progressions

t - random bouldering at manchester depot. couple of yellows and some purples. Also played on the comp wall problems which felt far more relevant to grit bouldering than the normal problems???

w - off

t - max hangs + 12.5kg (failed at 15 and had to drop down) didn't feel very 'recruited'. My finger strength tends to go up and down (+10kg to +20kg ish half crimp - my weakest grip by far) with no rhyme or reason. Over a year or so of fingerboarding it has gone up or down independent of sleep, stress, other training loads, how rested I am, time of day, etc. The only correlation seems to be bodyweight - when i'm heavier I tend to be able to hang MORE additional weight. Right now i'm 83.5kg under 10% body fat which is average for me. Finger strength is the only area where this happens I can gain strength in other areas easily

f - benchmarked my general strength as being fine with 1 set of bench press (100kg x 5 easy), then handstand press ups, bar back levers, 1 arm pull up work (with bands for reps), muscle ups (best set x7 reps)

s - went to almscliff and breezed through the bottom of the keel, I use double heel hook beta which means I can lower into the campus move without swinging out but then my tragic finger strength fails me and I can't pull for the pocket. Abandoned the cliff due to wind and checked out hunters roof for the 1st time. Worked all the moves and did it in 2 halves shredding my skin in the process. Might go next time!

s - rest

Edit: I have a feeling there's a positive finger strength correlation with doing lots of forearm work so will start doing this again.

[Will Hunt]

How tall are you, Liam? Do you want to do it by the campus method for the harder tick or is it a reach thing?

If you can do it without cutting loose it will be much more manageable.

[User deactivated.]

How tall are you, Liam? Do you want to do it by the campus method for the harder tick or is it a reach thing?

If you can do it without cutting loose it will be much more manageable.

6'1 - There's a non-campus method? I want to do it by any means possible for now 

Currently I take the keel hold with the left and come straight out to the crimp with the right hand, left foot to the top of the block and right heel all the way out to the lip (where some people use it as a right hand hold rather than matching the crimp), left heel then goes on the keel hold and im totally locked in so I can easily match the crimp and get my hands in an ideal position, then can lower off into deadhanging the crimp nice and steadily but fingers don't allow for the campus (which I can sometimes do in isolation).

 

[Coops_13]

Come back aim - Bishop in April with 36C. Fingers crossed it happens...

Are you road tripping it?

Probably not / road trip from nearest airport

[tomtom]

@Liam

6’2” method below. Can leave RF in toe jam/lock and pivot for the pocket.

[Will Hunt]

Do what TomTom did. There were two key things that made that work for me. First, you might want to wear a flat shoe on your right foot. You have to slot the foot in and twist it so that it locks in tight. When you get it right it's bomber.
Second, the right hand lip hold, I found it very helpful to crimp it, despite there not really being anything to crimp. Made the difference to how hard I could pull up.

[tomtom]

Do what TomTom did. There were two key things that made that work for me. First, you might want to wear a flat shoe on your right foot. You have to slot the foot in and twist it so that it locks in tight. When you get it right it's bomber.
Second, the right hand lip hold, I found it very helpful to crimp it, despite there not really being anything to crimp. Made the difference to how hard I could pull up.

What Will said. I used a supermocc on my right foot - very flat. Focus on keeping that foot in but only until you get the pocket. Once you've got it you wont drop off. Also practive the move from hanging the pocket, I found getting my LF up onto the chip really quite hard - and I dropped this move twice before sending (over multiple sessions). Also - I'd scrape up my left wrist on the lip - so wore a tubigrip on my wrist to stop my work colleagues thinking I was self harming...

Its also a really weirdly core dependant problem - and I'd often have 5-6 attempts then nothing would stick... feet would ping off everything. Core. 

[teestub]

Its also a really weirdly core dependant problem - and I'd often have 5-6 attempts then nothing would stick... feet would ping off everything. Core.

Crazy how these horizontal roofs end up being so core dependent 

[tomtom]

Its also a really weirdly core dependant problem - and I'd often have 5-6 attempts then nothing would stick... feet would ping off everything. Core.

Crazy how these horizontal roofs end up being so core dependent 

Pah! I've done problems where I've pulled so hard on my core to the point of wanting to vomit - whereas on the Keel it never ever felt like I was using it hard - it just got to a point where stopped working without feeling worn out or worked!

[User deactivated.]

Thanks all for the beta, looking forwards to trying it out.

On the topic of core intensive problems, hunters roof left me in bits the next day, more so than my gymnastic rings workout does!

[kingholmesy]

LTG: classic sea-cliff* E5 before 7.06.2020.

I know you’re not asking for recommendations, but I’m gonna give ‘em to you anyway.

They’re not yet classics (I think I probably did the second ascents), but they deserve to be ‘cos they’re amongst the best routes I’ve done:

El Draco at Bolt Tail in South Devon (https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=358318)

and

Terry at Wringcliff Bay on the Exmoor Coast (https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=426323)

They are both quite committing outings, but fairly steady at the grade.

[reeve]

Terry at Wringcliff Bay on the Exmoor Coast (https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=426323)

Good effort! I'd love to get there.

[kingholmesy]

It’s great. I keep meaning to go back and do the adjacent Chimney Sweep, but I live a bit further away now and haven’t got round to it. About a mile northwards along the coast there is some slightly less committing single pitch stuff at The Yellow Stone which, though not quite in the same league, is also worth a look. It’s in the Littlejohn SW guide.

[duncan]

They’re not yet classics (I think I probably did the second ascents), but they deserve to be ‘cos they’re amongst the best routes I’ve done:

El Draco at Bolt Tail in South Devon (https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=358318)

and

Terry at Wringcliff Bay on the Exmoor Coast (https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=426323)

They are both quite committing outings, but fairly steady at the grade.

Both sound amazing, thanks very much for the suggestions. How does Littlejohn keep unearthing classics in 2014?

More welcome, perhaps there should be an unheralded gems thread (Top Fifty or bumper fun book? You ain't coming in). We'd have to somehow limit Fiend to one post a week though.

[Wood FT]

LTG: classic sea-cliff* E5 before 7.06.2020.

I know you’re not asking for recommendations, but I’m gonna give ‘em to you anyway.

They’re not yet classics (I think I probably did the second ascents), but they deserve to be ‘cos they’re amongst the best routes I’ve done:

El Draco at Bolt Tail in South Devon (https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=358318)

I’ve often walked around Hope Cove and thought of this crag. Mind blowing choss though admittedly you can’t view bolt tail.

Have you been to check out Lord of the Prawns at all?