Andy Cave showed up with a tape measure and sheepishly measured the distance between holds on Mecca to accurate replica problems on his board.
Lengthy body weight hangs mainly halfcrimp and a couple of drags. Best hang 33secs half crimp on ergo edge.
Quote from: shark on January 12, 2020, 06:47:03 pmAndy Cave showed up with a tape measure and sheepishly measured the distance between holds on Mecca to accurate replica problems on his board.Gold mine information.
Tried the LH start, suggestion that non-tall folk might need to start off two pads. Well I sat on two pads and could only just reach one hold. Gave up on that quite quickly
Quote from: shark on January 12, 2020, 06:47:03 pm Lengthy body weight hangs mainly halfcrimp and a couple of drags. Best hang 33secs half crimp on ergo edge.Is this some sort of trad climbing training for placing gear or something?
Quote from: Wood FT on January 12, 2020, 07:45:17 pmQuote from: shark on January 12, 2020, 06:47:03 pmAndy Cave showed up with a tape measure and sheepishly measured the distance between holds on Mecca to accurate replica problems on his board.Gold mine information.I'm sure there was a picture in an old guidebook of someone making foil imprints of holds on tuppence to remake it on a board
if anyone wants any beta for DIA then here goes. firsty forget using the good starting hold on the arete as a sidepull, instead use the bottom seam of it round the left of the arete as a normal horizontal straight hold. can't remember if i crimp it or openhand it thumbpinching the arete. right hand goes on something on the other side, whatever. left foot somewhere obvious, then right foot goes up and heelhooks the big sidepull over right - you then pull straight up for that hold on the arete, then as normal jump up and sit on your left foot to get that hold out left. This also works well for climbing into it from the righthand sitter - its basically no harder. Dunno about the left sitter. The advantage of this is you don't have to fight any kinda barndoor that you may get if pull on on the RH side of the arete then trying to fall round the arete style. Question?
Then tried it using the standard beta and got on better, but struggled to get my right foot around the arete. Beta/advice welcome.
Squawk sticks in my head for some reason.
Does anyone know the history of this then? How did the standard DIA problem become the weird pivot version? The trad route must always have been climbed staying on the RHS? Why is Andy's Problem not called DIA and the pivot thing a quirky variation?
Quote from: Will Hunt on January 13, 2020, 11:23:33 amDoes anyone know the history of this then? How did the standard DIA problem become the weird pivot version? The trad route must always have been climbed staying on the RHS? Why is Andy's Problem not called DIA and the pivot thing a quirky variation?I'm pretty sure the route DIA was originally via the standard DIA stander. Difference in landings pre-mats may have influenced this.A large chunk fell off the start sidepull on the RHS of the arete, maybe twenty years ago. I don't know how this affected the difficultly of the various variants.I've done Andy's and both the sitters on DIA and I don't recall DIA being harder than Andy's (it was a while ago though).My sequence on DIA is different to that vid or Dave's beta. I pull on as per your vid but hang low and flag my right foot round left to hook the lip of the roof on the left side of the arete. From a tight lock on your left arm I then reach over into a guppy (RH thumb pointing up), turn lefthand to a crimp then swing round onto lhs.
Some week that Nick!
Can't seem to login on a computer, weirdly. Anyone else?
Yes, can't log in on laptop (firefox) or home desktop (chrome). Telephone (chrome) and work desktop (chrome) both fine. Been like this for a year or two.
Quote from: Bonjoy on January 13, 2020, 01:51:25 pmQuote from: Will Hunt on January 13, 2020, 11:23:33 amDoes anyone know the history of this then? How did the standard DIA problem become the weird pivot version? The trad route must always have been climbed staying on the RHS? Why is Andy's Problem not called DIA and the pivot thing a quirky variation?I'm pretty sure the route DIA was originally via the standard DIA stander. Difference in landings pre-mats may have influenced this.A large chunk fell off the start sidepull on the RHS of the arete, maybe twenty years ago. I don't know how this affected the difficultly of the various variants.I've done Andy's and both the sitters on DIA and I don't recall DIA being harder than Andy's (it was a while ago though).My sequence on DIA is different to that vid or Dave's beta. I pull on as per your vid but hang low and flag my right foot round left to hook the lip of the roof on the left side of the arete. From a tight lock on your left arm I then reach over into a guppy (RH thumb pointing up), turn lefthand to a crimp then swing round onto lhs.That sounds like an interesting sequence! So, just to elaborate on that, do you do the first left hand movement to bump it up the arete? Or stay on the juggy sidepull low down? And when you say you get your RH as a guppy, do you mean your palm is on the LHS of the arete? Similar to how I have my hand from 17 seconds onwards? If the right hand sidepull at the start has become significantly bigger then this might be significant for Andy's as you get a very comfortable heel behind it after you've stood up. This keeps you in a steady position while you move your hands up the arete and RH rib.
Come back aim - Bishop in April with 36C. Fingers crossed it happens...
How tall are you, Liam? Do you want to do it by the campus method for the harder tick or is it a reach thing?If you can do it without cutting loose it will be much more manageable.
Quote from: Coops_13 on January 13, 2020, 03:17:56 pmCome back aim - Bishop in April with 36C. Fingers crossed it happens...Are you road tripping it?
Do what TomTom did. There were two key things that made that work for me. First, you might want to wear a flat shoe on your right foot. You have to slot the foot in and twist it so that it locks in tight. When you get it right it's bomber.Second, the right hand lip hold, I found it very helpful to crimp it, despite there not really being anything to crimp. Made the difference to how hard I could pull up.
Its also a really weirdly core dependant problem - and I'd often have 5-6 attempts then nothing would stick... feet would ping off everything. Core.
Quote from: tomtom on January 14, 2020, 06:28:25 pmIts also a really weirdly core dependant problem - and I'd often have 5-6 attempts then nothing would stick... feet would ping off everything. Core. Crazy how these horizontal roofs end up being so core dependent
LTG: classic sea-cliff* E5 before 7.06.2020.
Terry at Wringcliff Bay on the Exmoor Coast (https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=426323)
They’re not yet classics (I think I probably did the second ascents), but they deserve to be ‘cos they’re amongst the best routes I’ve done:El Draco at Bolt Tail in South Devon (https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=358318)andTerry at Wringcliff Bay on the Exmoor Coast (https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=426323)They are both quite committing outings, but fairly steady at the grade.
Quote from: duncan on January 13, 2020, 10:50:07 amLTG: classic sea-cliff* E5 before 7.06.2020. I know you’re not asking for recommendations, but I’m gonna give ‘em to you anyway.They’re not yet classics (I think I probably did the second ascents), but they deserve to be ‘cos they’re amongst the best routes I’ve done:El Draco at Bolt Tail in South Devon (https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=358318)
How does Littlejohn keep unearthing classics in 2014? More welcome ...
Have you been to check out Lord of the Prawns at all?
Quote from: Wood FT on January 15, 2020, 10:19:49 pmHave you been to check out Lord of the Prawns at all?I went with the intention of trying it a couple of years ago, but there was too much swell running to be able to get to the bottom of the route. From what I could see from peering over the top of the cliff it looked like an excellent wall.A friend has top-roped it and said the climbing was steady enough for the grade and that they thought the gear would be adequate.Another one that’s on the list! Although less likely as this is now well over 2 hours away, compared to 50 minutes to the Lizard.
Quote from: SA Chris on January 14, 2020, 02:14:31 pmQuote from: Coops_13 on January 13, 2020, 03:17:56 pmCome back aim - Bishop in April with 36C. Fingers crossed it happens...Are you road tripping it?Probably not / road trip from nearest airport
Quote from: Coops_13 on January 14, 2020, 04:15:01 pmQuote from: SA Chris on January 14, 2020, 02:14:31 pmQuote from: Coops_13 on January 13, 2020, 03:17:56 pmCome back aim - Bishop in April with 36C. Fingers crossed it happens...Are you road tripping it?Probably not / road trip from nearest airportReno is easiest drive.