[shark]

11.6-7 Average 160.8lbs

M. Lunch Tor. Dripping but the three holds I was interested in were dry. Tried the first kneebarless  move on Bens multiple times. Have opted for a basic approach as I couldn’t get a drop knee to work. Getting close. Encouraged as was third day on and I’m 10lbs heavier than a few months ago. The move is good training for the Oak being a core intensive reach off a low left hand.
Eve Tried to do a deadhang session but curtailed it as tired. Messed about a bit with weights, pull-ups and front lever attempts

T. AM Looked bad on drive out with boys with thick clag on Stoney Ridge. Met Robin, John and Dave H at Dukes Seat. Not been before. Weather better there. Cool walk in and a handful of quality problems. Not the best conditions but not bad either. Good scenes and banter. After warming up on a scrittly 6B everyone moved onto Thin White Duke 7A and quickly despatched it except me. Not my style - basic, campus style problem but good. Robin predicted failure and offered a pint if I did it. Persisted and eventually rewarded with the send when temps dropped a bit. Nice end to the year.

W.

T. PM Gardoms with Ben. He quickly did Marks Roof. I just tried from standing. Fingers felt a bit stronger on it than last winter but crank strength lacking. Got close but didn’t do the stand.

F. Eve. Foundry. Campus board and a few throws on Oak move. Systems board 1 complete set of 20/10s timed at 2 secs per move. Ran out of time. Eve Drive to Devon

S.

S. Benchmark weighted deadhangs on a campus rung in a barn. Last did it in May. Only resumed fingerboarding in last few weeks so wasn’t expecting much. Relieved  to match May scores which was a respectable improvement as I’m weighing 2.8kg more. Eve. Drive back from Devon


Front lever improving. Shoulders a bit iffy so might take a visit to physio. Starting to form plans for year ahead.

The move on Bens FWIW

[Will Hunt]

30th - Snuck out for a session at Pex. Thought it would be dry and knew there would be other people there so had thoughts of trying Catalepsy etc. Lady Jane wall was all wet so got stuck into the Pisa eliminates. Did loads of nice climbing and climbed well - doing most things in a go or two. Get Better, Vitalite, Pex Dyno, Big Eric, Andy Who?, Brock Did It First etc. And the big one for me: South West Overhang. Went home a very happy chap.

1st - Went to Manley Knoll and found that the problems fell into a 3 type Venn diagram. They were all either Too Wet, Too High (for one person with one pad), or Too Shit. The things that weren't in the Too Shit category looked very good. Particularly Manley Virtues which isn't actually as high as I thought it would be (and the landing is perfect).
Went to Helsby and climbed on the Pocket Wall area of the top tier. Flashed the sit starts to the Pocket Wall, The Arete, and The Nose which are graded variously from 6C to 7A. They all share the same crux which is pulling off the ground using the same pair of starting holds. They're probably all 6C. Then flashed (insofar as you can flash something that shares holds with the problems you've just done) The Chirotherium which was a nice climb. TomTom is adamant that it's 7A+...
Had a go on Tears In Rain and couldn't really figure out how to do it without dabbing on the shelf. Gave up and realised I just about had time to dash down to the Barrel Buttress. Did Roll Out The Barrel, which was decent but the top was too damp to top out direct 
Helsby hilltop was nice. Not a lot for anybody operating in the higher 6s or above, but a lovely outlook and beautiful sandstone.

4th - Norwood Edge to start. Warmed up briefly then did an alleged 7C second go - which is proof enough for me that it isn't 7C to a non-midget. Asked my friend to video it so I could give it the full Hunt Downgrade treatment and then couldn't repeat it in a few goes. It's kind of frustrating to not know how hard this actually was for me. Maybe 7A+ or something. Then onto Night Raiders which took quite a few goes before I spotted a big foothold I ought to be using. Then off to Hunter's Stones. Had a few goes on Hunter's Roof and remembered why I'd lost interest in it originally. Hideously sharp pebbles everywhere (not to mention that my core muscles are made of overboiled pasta). Went off to the X-Wall to try and do the sit to Hook or By Crook which had eluded me some years ago. Took a few goes to repeat the stand on now quite thin skin. Tried a number of things for the sit and found it all a bit baffling. Tom says it starts with a heel on the shelf - which I did try but obviously not hard enough.
We finished by doing Shothole Arete, the 6B on the far right of the wall, which is totally overlooked but has a really brilliant move. Added (?; most likely done before) a sit start to that and then home.


All in all, a good bit of mileage over the Christmas period with a 3 week old at home.

[tomtom]

Tried the first kneebarless  move on Bens multiple times. Have opted for a basic approach as I couldn’t get a drop knee to work. The move is good training for the Oak being a core intensive reach off a low left hand.

Because that one move is just like doing the route, yeah? :D

[Fiend]

M - Grand tour of Peaks trying stuff at Leashaw Brow, Bank Quarry, and Curbar. Soloed one nice micro-route.

T - Mist-bound Calderdale. Dry rock at Scout Hut. Did one ace highball and lost some skin on a grim sandbag roof. Jump Up d'n'b club in the evening but wasn't inspired by low volume and cheesy crowd so little leg training.

W - Hangs and campussing at MancDepot, partly because of tender skin. Did quite well, PBs on BM hangs and a bit better campussing on small rungs. Elbows okay.

T - Recceing / half-hearted attempts at Woodhouse (hurricane connies) and Shipley (too still / warm). Pulled vaguely on holds at least.

F - Half-hearted attempts at Brimham (mint connies but too scary finish) and Shipley (ran out of skin and time due to too many pointless "one last gos" at Brimham). Good blood pressure workout coping with Brimham parking charges.

S - A few problems and some hanging at Manc Depot, skin definitely mashed, roll-on effects from Tue. Another PB on BM edges and nice campussing between slopers. Feel like I'm actually training. Elbows fine.

S - Complete rest.

[tomtom]

TomTom is adamant that it's 7A+and Mike think its about 7B...

Just a wee correction for you there Will

[Bradders]

Tried the first kneebarless  move on Bens multiple times. Have opted for a basic approach as I couldn’t get a drop knee to work. The move is good training for the Oak being a core intensive reach off a low left hand.

Because not doing that one move is just like doing the route, yeah? :D

Fixed that for you a smidge TT but otherwise exactly what I was thinking.

[yetix]

M: Rest
T: Outdoors, Harter Fell Crag, no real successes, but a really nice day out. what a place!
W: Outdoors, Sheeps pen with the BUK crew. somehow despite feeling in terrible shape and feeling v broken from having very few rest days I was able to send the pinch which has been a bogey problem for me for some time!
T: Depot Manc, went around and did all the slabs. density hangs 3x30s on BM1000 edge, lock offs at 90 and 120 degrees 3x30s
F: Rest
S: Outdoors, stupidly humid day, spent most of it driving around north wales. eventually went to the punk. did the move once and fell off bringing my foot up for the end, was quite happy about this as I absolutely suck at one movers normally! One to go back for on a better day.
S: Indoors, Boardroom, went around the 4-6's, 7-8s felt hard!

Since the 20th of December I've had 4 days not climbing (fairly sure I did some conditioning on some of these days) so going to have a lighter week this week before getting stuck into something slightly more structured. Psych is high, just a shame the weather hasn't played ball much so I have no concept of what form I'm currently in!

[spidermonkey09]

Back in the game!

M - drove to the Lakes. Wished I had pads as Yorkshire was really sunny.

T - walked up Wetherlam and round the ridge. Nice relaxed day out followed by drinking.

W - nothing.

T - back at work. Bollocks.

F - Fingerboard session after work. First time on it in a while. Just a fairly easy set of repeaters and some pressups. Trying to source some weights so I can get going on max hangs again. Where is the best place to get reasonable cheap metal ones?! Other than gumtree of course.

S - attempted to go climbing in the Peak. Raining at Stanage but cleared up enough to get some in at Froggatt. Belayed in freezing conditions, psych absolutely non-existent. Soloed up Sunset Crack to get some gear out and got the fear.

S - Cratcliffe/ Robin Hood's Stride. I really like going here and will try and go a bit more as its pretty close to Leicester, where I'm living for a few months. Did some mileage to remember how to climb on grit. Also briefly tried Dry Wit in a Wet Country but started greasing off it. Great problem, looking forward to trying it again. Also keen for Big Al Qaeda if anyone else is.

This week, probably some fingerboard and a few evenings at the wall. Adjustment to UK life continues...

[yetix]

S - Cratcliffe/ Robin Hood's Stride. I really like going here and will try and go a bit more as its pretty close to Leicester, where I'm living for a few months. Did some mileage to remember how to climb on grit. Also briefly tried Dry Wit in a Wet Country but started greasing off it. Great problem, looking forward to trying it again. Also keen for Big Al Qaeda if anyone else is.

Would like to do both of these

[shark]

Because that one move is just like similar to doing the crux of the route

Being strong on that move is a key focus for me. The top up in strength/power and specific move practice in the autumn helped me to get through that move from the ground four times in the autumn

[spidermonkey09]

Going to jump in and defend Shark here; I have found specific move training useful on basically every route I've ever done. That's no excuse for not doing more general power training though!

[Duma]

yeah I think TT and Bradders are off target here, really hard moves is what Shark needs, not more PE

[andy popp]

1st - Went to Manley Knoll and found that the problems fell into a 3 type Venn diagram. They were all either Too Wet, Too High (for one person with one pad), or Too Shit.

You mean you didn't like the look of Sandy Cheeks? Some people have no taste ...

[Bradders]

yeah I think TT and Bradders are off target here, really hard moves is what Shark needs, not more PE

I'd agree, if he was actually doing the move / any moves. Trying a move and not sticking it doesn't really train anything other than poor motor skills shirley?

[Will Hunt]

1st - Went to Manley Knoll and found that the problems fell into a 3 type Venn diagram. They were all either Too Wet, Too High (for one person with one pad), or Too Shit.

You mean you didn't like the look of Sandy Cheeks? Some people have no taste ...

I very nearly got up Sandy Cheeks but the holds felt a little damp and I stopped trying it. It's got some nice movement on it but it's one part great climbing and one part incorrigible choss.

[spidermonkey09]

I'd agree, if he was actually doing the move / any moves. Trying a move and not sticking it doesn't really train anything other than poor motor skills shirley?

When I try moves I can't do on the board, I tend to fail on them for ages, then I start tickling the hold, then it becomes low percentage, and hopefully eventually it becomes fairly steady. I think you can definitely get stronger trying an individual hard move, no?

[duncan]

STG: rehab. elbow, enjoy climbing, fall off something. A big yes for all these.
Continue to have fun,   cautiously start pulling a bit harder.
MTG: 7b+
LTG: classic sea-cliff E5 before 7.06.2020.

M - Rest day. Toured area north of Montanejos including checking out Alto Mijares. https://altomijares.org/en/sectors-routes/
A lovely spot, has a well-positioned refugio, potentially a good option for a mid-grade climber looking for somewhere a little off the beaten track. Anyone been?
Shoulder body-weight exercises.

T - Back to Placas del Sol, deserted of course, warmed-up on a 6b then got on La Senda La Collitis (‘7a’). This is superb line in a fine position high above the gorge. It’s a classic PE test with the meat comprising 12m of not obvious ~V1-3 moves. This is above my usual pay scale but it felt harder than 7bs like Cantalobos or Empire of the Sun.

NYE in Montanejos: several hundred youngish people (where did they all come from?) having unpretentious fun with no obvious drunkenness or aggression.

W - Montanejos, sector La Yedra. This was one of the original areas to be developed and retains the 80s-style bolt spacing, the only place we sampled  that seemed under-equipped: the ‘6a+’ warm-up felt like a Pembroke E3. Tried La Yedra itself. I felt sure Andy must have done it BITD when it was 6a(!). It’s 6c in the current guidebook and would be harder elsewhere. I did the moves but couldn’t channel the slate-head necessary for the lead: some sketchy clips and ledge-grazing falls. Bring an E4 leader or a clip-stick and extend several of the bolts. 

T - Shoulder exercises. Drive to Chulilla. Dogs! Vans! Orange trousers! Wow, where did all these people come from?

F - No sleep in a warm and noisy dorm (no earplugs :facepalm: ) so didn’t get to the crag til afternoon. Warmed-up and worked Curro está con Valero (7a+). Scratched through to the top with some on-lead improvisation on the red-point. Happy with this: felt like I was sport climbing, had to try hard for a bit, and gets a bigger number than anything I did in 2019.

S - Warmed-up on the excellent Mi gozo en tu pozo (6b+, ie Montanejos 6a) then worked Cantalobos (7b). Managed all but the last move where I pulled off an inconsequential hold. Took some good falls trying a proper sequence but had run out of gas.

S - Battered. A few easy routes in the sun at Fantasía then away. All smooth until shambolic scenes at Stansted: trains cancelled, buses under-capacity, National Express clueless, 90 minutes queueing in the cold, home at 3am. Welcome back.

Excellent trip: two fine and contrasting (in the context of Spanish bolt-clipping) venues, ideal weather, good company. I felt like my climbing head and body was starting to work again after a year off.

Plan: Rest. Assess current state of London climbing walls. Do some bouldering and fingerboarding.

[andy popp]

I very nearly got up Sandy Cheeks but the holds felt a little damp and I stopped trying it. It's got some nice movement on it but it's one part great climbing and one part incorrigible choss.

Haha, I can't believe you tried it! But I know what you mean. It is, by any meaningful standard, a truly terrible problem, but I also quite enjoyed it. I take it Backswood Man was wet?

[Will Hunt]

I very nearly got up Sandy Cheeks but the holds felt a little damp and I stopped trying it. It's got some nice movement on it but it's one part great climbing and one part incorrigible choss.

Haha, I can't believe you tried it! But I know what you mean. It is, by any meaningful standard, a truly terrible problem, but I also quite enjoyed it. I take it Backswood Man was wet?

Yeah. Backwoods Man was the reason I went really and it was unfortunately quite wet. When you say that spanning out left is cheating, do you mean that you're only allowed to use the bits of the seam that are crimpy things, not the big juggy ledge thing out left?

[Alex-the-Alex]

Shot hole arete is great! I remember a bright cold Christmas day a few years ago, popping out with a new pad and doing that, Larchbow and a few others. Magic!  It's a great little circuit up there.

[andy popp]

When you say that spanning out left is cheating, do you mean that you're only allowed to use the bits of the seam that are crimpy things, not the big juggy ledge thing out left?

Yes, get the two obvious crimps in the seam, get your right foot on a smear just over the lip and rock/stand up to holds straight up. Going out left is actually good too, its just not the problem. It's also not really that much easier if you're lacking in inches. Shame it was wet, its a nice little piece of esoterica.

[gollum]

M - Nip up to Almscliffe for a couple of hours. Beautiful day. Potter about a bit and arm is a bit sore again. Nice to be out and about.

T - Relaxing at home with Mrs B

W - Do consider braving the crowds at Brimham, but after friends’ reports on traffic and parking, go for easy option of a New Years Day walk around Scammonden . Easy run in the late afternoon as part of Run Every Day.

T - Cold is back in full effect. Elect to skip the wall tonight, so as not to spread any lurgy. Can’t escape the RED thing (or Sharkathon) so shuffle around the block.

F - As above, but a little bit quicker. Have a visit to the physio to try and sort my arm before Spain.

S - Physio exercises and RED

S -...........and repeat.

Bit of a poor week. Cold in full effect and resting arm a bit but as week ends, feels like health is heading in the right direction.

[Coops_13]

Two (or three) weeks to report:

Bugger all apart from a lot of steps exploring European cities - averaged 12-14k per day but ate a lot of schnitzel and drank a lot of beer. Likely at my heaviest ever...

[nai]

STG: Moonboard 7A, Depot 50 6B, Font 7C (although right now I'd take a 7B as a great success)
Spring 2020 Lime Font 7C.

M - started warming up at home, felt good, 2x10s F3 hangs on 10mm and a 3rd at 7s. PB

Dropped wife and nipper at the top of Blackamoor at 1 then went looking for a parking spot. An hour later (via Froggatt, turned around on the way to Curbar after hearing it was carnage, Froggatt again, Burbage South, Burbage North, Higgar and Surprise View) had given up and was heading home when I saw a space at Burbage South. Nearly didn't bother but headed in. Tried Little Gem, wasn't as consistent as last time but got a foot move further then wandered up to find The Rib, had four attempts before the crimp started to open up the 3-week-old and not-yet-heeled -hole in my tip.  Shame as I was making it to the 4th sidepull.
Core
Guests arrived at 5pm, bottles opened soon after....

TWT guests - nowt but a wander around Burbage on Tuesday.

F - 2kg heavier than Monday. Back tweaky after inactivity
Slow warm up at home, connies felt dry and breezy so thought Hot Toddy was a good bet. Parked at Froggatt and started to walk in, immediately started drizzling. Radar suggested it was localised but wasn't going to stop so bailed to Burbage.  Plan had been a Remergence session but it was busy so ended up at the Terrace. Frustrating time not managing the move to either pocket.  Quick blast at Hanging Rib & Eliminate on way out.
Core

S -
Scap pullups -10kg sets of 6-8
weighted pullups - +22kg 3 sets of 4-5
dips
TRX - low row, Rev Fly, T, Y, face pulls
(all a bit down on usual)
Squat
OH squat
Hammy ext
Core

S - good massage and stretch. Good to find I can cossack squat deep on my left leg without falling over, which I couldn't a few weeks back.  Reasons to be Cheerful, I guess

[tomtom]

Mon: Gopping weather....

Tu: Less gopping weather - and being the last day of the year (and being given a begrudging afternoon pass) decided to treat myself to a trip to Blackstone. Conditions up there were less than prime (dry in most places - but most of the green was soaking..) and I came close to getting the 6C on the trigpoint slab - then retreated as one of the holds can leave a nasty hole in the finger. Wandered back to Hobbits Undercuts - with some new Beta from Robin to try,.. somewhere between 7A+ and 7B+ depending on where your strengths lie, I managed to pull up sat on two folded mats. Then one folded & one unfolded, then pulling as hard as I ever think I have managed to stand up from two unfolded (apparently allowed...). Fuck, I’ve never tried so hard I don’t think. Was then exhausted so had some lunch :D Lost a load of skin on a 7A lowball I still can’t do - then headed over to the wall below the main crag and managed to do the one hard move on Calibrate/Recalibrate (7A+) but then slithered off the wet green breaks to do the 5+ finishing move. Next time - pleased to have enough oof to do it.

We: New Year’s Day - minding the nipper whilst MrsTT was hungover :D My 3rd AF new year.

Th: Helsby before the rain came in... Holds needed a good de-plastering, and beginning ones on Tears were wet/damp, so left that alone. Worked getting the end of the problem slick - then moved onto the Chirotherium... spent about 90 min trying very hard - and got it overlapping but not from the beginning. One very core intensive foot swap under the roof that seems to be holding me back. But made good progress

Fri: Core stuff

Sa:

Su: Baslow with Plattsy. Curbar was heaving - no-one at Baslow. Back at the ripper area. Had great fun falling off and eventually doing Balls Test - what a superb problem. Then we worked out how to do Truffle Pig (vid below) which is aesthetically unappealing but climbs nicely. Then,  I - er - flashed Undercutting where I was able to reach the final holds quite easily from low footholds... Its on paper the first 7A I’ve flashed - but wasn’t for me... Lost some knuckle skin on the Ripper, then put on some harder shoes and sailed up it. Class problem. Wandered down to the Matterhorn - forgot to look at Bonjoys new problem. Marvelled at the towering wall of fossil tree trunks while having my lunch. Worked out the moves on the 7’s there but skin tips were done in by then. Great day! Nice start to 2020!