[dunnyg]

After some time for pondering and checking of possibilities, aims this year:

1. Climb some desert towers (6 shooter, ancient art, owl) On hold.
2. Tick off more of the *** way to yorkshire grit heaven ukc  2, Both seconded! Rolling gate buttress was lovely on a baking summers day with the Mrs, desperation crack with Will in the hail was a giggle. More next year please.
3. Climb lots of US easy classics (Wyoming? Yosemite? Red rocks? Bishop? Recomendations welcome for 5.9 or easier!) On hold.
4. Do some dirty headpoints of local stuff Did a quick hp of daytona wall direct at cowsmouth and Desperate dan at ilkley. Got my annual E5 (maybe E6 for daytona direct?) so chuffed anyway!
5. Boulder some 7B (just try hard!) 7 7Bs across grit/lime/granite and a 7B+ (demon wall ear variation!). Some of them going in a session.
6. Some sport 7s (take some falls!) No sport this year, covid/crowds etc.
7. Get out after work with lamps etc.. Couple of sessions early in the year, and then loads at the end. I find this much easier now my work hours are more set, and I have hooked up with some local lampy keen beans. Spent 101 days this year climbing/biking and or surfing, good considering 2 months of not leaving the house.


7. Finish Phd Psyched off my face .
8. Get gainful employment New job, got my first pay slip just before xmas, nice people, interesting work.

Climbing goals got a bit covid-ed, but given I didnt leave my house at all for two months and haven't been to wall since January, bouldering seems to have gone well. I didn't always try as hard as I could do, but bouldering wise I feel like I am close to previous best form, which is nice!

[Duncan campbell]

As last year didn’t quite go to plan many of my aims have been carried over. Last year presented me with a few challenges, but I think this year should negate one or two of them and I hopefully have a bit of a better understanding of how to deal with others.

Sport

Hopefully back out to Spain for a second go at last year’s trip. made it back out to Spain, had 4 weeks of climbing before van got crashed into, got it fixed, then had to drive home just as my now ex arrived.

So again keen to consolidate at 8a which probably equals doing one in a session. But doing a load more would also equal this. didnt manage one in a session though did do one in Spain in 4 tie ins but it was spread between 2 days as the sun came round. Did consolidate at 8a though with 3 solid peak lime 8as ticked. Unleashing, crucifixion, and ouijaboard. Adding in my Spanish 8a I more than doubled my tally of 8as.

Onsight 7c - was close last time which was 3 years ago now. Be ace to try and flash 7c+ too if I’m feeling good did one ground up (you can take the trad climber out of a trad crag...) tried one or two more but didn’t really get my teeth into onsighting as I was planning on doing more towards the end of the trip

Be good to get my teeth into something fairly tricky. Mon Dieu at oliana seems like it might fit the bill and it seems like a lot of my mates are keen to go there. had a few sesssions on it but they were sporadic and around sorting my van which I found stressful. Would like to go back for it as I think it would come together quite quickly

U.K. sport-wise I would really like to do Supercool. Had a bolt to bolt up it after work last year and couldn’t do the crux but would be keen to invest some time in it. Also tick some more off the list. had a couple of sessions on it, but will need a fair few more! Did do cross’n’angry at raven tor which although not as good or very hard for 8a+ was fun

Trad

Onsight/g-up E6 again, both at a more solid for the grade level and more often. Remember that the prize is going for it on the onsight not the end product of the onsight itself. didnt try any. Had one day in Pembroke where I was up for one but ex wasn’t keen, fair enough. Barely did any trad so not surprised I didn’t climb E6

Get to the lakes more and tick off more from the lists went to the lakes once

Maybe look into a headpoint project. Would likely be in the more spicy sport area than really necky short route. This is an area I have never really given much thought but I can imagine it can be really fun if the right level found. Plus a good way to further improve trad skills did barely any trad so any time spent tradding was spent onsighting

Bouldering
Consolidate at 7B do more 7B+ and if I find one that suits 7C not really done much should of done more in summer with ex. One in a long list of regrets

Keep up a bit of power through summer did actually manage this with board and fingerboarding

Misc/life

Do some more big multi pitch things - Verdon/dolomites/general euro.

Make sure I spend enough time with GF but also make time for going out and doing the things I really want to do - a tricky one this. Don’t let uncertain work contracts stop is from going away on a decent holiday/trip fucked it in so many ways. Don’t think I got the balance right here. And my attitude/mental health at times made my choices even worse

Figure out work direction - do I stay with current company or go more freelance? Build more experience for when I upgrade to L3 in some ways yes. Switched firms. Went in opposite direction and got a full time contract. Mostly for below aim. Not sure if I enjoy the work as much at new firm, but right decision short term

Begin gearing up to buy house guess after working loads last year this year will be more fun oriented but towards the end of the year will have to start thinking about buying a house. van getting stolen in lockdown and due to some bad luck not getting any further money from write off was a set back. But Covid seemed like the perfect opportunity to get my head down and begin getting sorted. Plus it’s currently fine to have a full time contract as I may as well be working. Hoping to buy sometime in 2021

Read more. Stop mindlessly scrolling!! was a bit better but still need to be even better

Keep up with general training over summer. Did keep up fingerboarding

Hope this is a good start to the decade for everyone!


This year totally kicked my ass. My van being crashed into, written off and then stolen, plus my Spain trip being cut short and then Covid really made my mental health spiral downwards. Some unfortunate work projects and some underlying mental issues/attitudes further exacerbated all this.

Regrettably this caused a breakdown in my relationship which ended in September, though I am still dealing with it. This caused me to really look at myself and decide I had some stuff I need to sort out. Which I have been and am committed to continuing.

A lot of red but I think my aims for 2021 will be a bit different and hopefully lead to a better more content life. With or without climbing achievements

[Wood FT]

A rough year but you will come out of it for the better. Amazing sport year, very inspired by you on the Tor long routes.

[36chambers]

5 off the “why have you not done these yet?” list [Syrett's Saunter, Chicken, Ben's Groove Sitter, Zoo York, Underhand Super Extension, Pistol Whip, Neat Wall Arete Eliminate (finally!) and several more. Reasonably easy when you have 100s of local problems pending...]
5 sessions trying 8B/s- [2: smeggy half hour on High Fiddy, got to undercut. End of session punt on Voyager, did first two moves...]
5 new UK crags [Eastby, Eskdale Fisherground, Higgar Tor, Smeaton, Lees Bottom, and several more]
5 second one arm BM 10’s [don't have any to check, haven't been indoors since February!]
5 off the board list [see above...]
5 days sport climbing [ended up getting a dog]
5 eights [1: ZY. Was fully expecting to polish off 4 at Griffs and the Bowderstone alone, but the former was wet both times I went and I never made it to the latter. Probably tried about 3 this year and only one for more than a session. More to go at next year I suppose ]
5 climbing trips (weekends/holidays)  [4: two pre-lockdown weekend trips. Overseas cancelled, but very grateful to make it to Northumberland and Torridon instead]
5 FA’s (including shitty link ups and shitty sitters) [2: Gardener's Delight, Off The Block, a few more pending]
5 training room PB’s [see above]

and
50+ fingerboard sessions  [somewhere around 40-45]
50+ stretching/mobility sessions  [~30]
50+ conditioning sessions [~30]

Not a mega climbing year on paper, but I don't mind as I've just really appreciated being able to get out and particularly with good company. More of this please.

[JohnM]

12 month review.

Climbing

Climb at least French 8b bolt clipping again. I managed to do a route that gets 8b+ in the guidebook but it is probably only hard 8b. At least I know it is definitely 8b!

Do a challenging alpine route at either Rote Wand, Wilder Kaiser or the Dolomites. Finding a psyched partner will probably be the initial crux on this one. Got a potentially psyched partner but was hoping to do something around this time but the weather has been gash recently and very unstable. Still plenty of time so hopefully soon.

There were some weather windows in the end but I never got psyched enough to organise a partner and a potential route.

If I go to Australia next autumn I would like to do some classics in the Blue Mountains and in the Gramps such as Serpentine. This was all cancelled for obvious reasons.

I won't bother with any specific bouldering goals as my outdoor sessions are rare and sporadic, but it would be nice to climb a classic 7C outdoors if I get into one. Did a little bit of bouldering in Maltatal when I was there. Looked at a 7c briefly which felt doable, but it was much too warm/humid that day. Keen to get out bouldering soon to Silvretta.

Nope. I had a brief period of motivation for bouldering in October but it was a very damp month. I was determined to do a hard "block" style problem (say 4 moves or less) but at the same time I lose motivation fast. Had 3 sessions on a 7C+/8A and made progress but then conditions were terrible and I would drive all the way there and wouldn't be able to hang the holds. Back splatted on my last session and never went back.

Running

Finish both of the 100 km+ races I have entered into (Innsbruck Trail Festival and Eiger Ultra) and do the Bob Graham round in June if there is a good weather window. All my races were cancelled. I ran the Innsbruck route anyway but gave up before the last 8km as it was getting dark and I ran out of motivation. I am still happy I ran over 100km though. This has been rescheduled for September so maybe I will get a chance to complete it then. I would still love to have a crack at the Bob Graham round but who knows when I am going to make it back to the UK again. I don't think I will get a chance before the second wave arrives after they open everything up again. My partner for the Bob Graham also had to undergo a major unplanned surgery this year so maybe it will be best to wait until he recovers for next year if he still has the motivation.

I never attempted the BGR and haven't been back to the UK since last March. Hopefully this year. I took part in the Innsbruck K110 Ultra in September and finished in 30th place in 15 hours 23 mins, well within my target time of 16 hours so I was pretty pleased with that.

Misc/life

Get less anxious about work related stuff. It has not been too bad this year. Usually I get stressed about managing everything and keeping everything under control but strangely during the lockdown I felt completely calm about that side of things as I felt it was all out of my hands anyway and there was nothing I could do about it! I feel a bit anxious now as all the work seems to have dried up but similarly I have no control over the global economy so there is only so much I can do about it. Luckily I am personally ok at the moment but I will need to work again at some point! Worryingly one of my larger UK clients are asking me if I have work for them!

I have continued to be generally pretty chilled about work. After having no work all summer it picked up again in September and has been ticking along since. I could do with this year being more lucrative though.

Read more for pleasure + as others have said - less mindless internet scrolling. I bought a Kindle to address this and read one short novel called Train Dreams that I enjoyed. However, it is now covered in dust! I am reading a Norwegian (translated) crime thriller at the moment which I am enjoying and have a few other books lined up so hopefully this will improve. I still do way too much mindless scrolling!

Hmm not really. I gave-up on the Norwegian crime thriller and have read half a book since. I just don't make time for reading.

Improve my conversational German. My vocab improved a lot during 2019 but I still actively avoid conversing in German! This has got a lot better although I wouldn't say I actively seek to converse with people in German. I speak with a tutor in Vienna on Skype every week and go running with a French guy who has lived in Austria for 20 years. He doesn't speak English so our common language is German so that is good for practice.

My German got better in theory and I watched a lot more German TV series but didn't really converse with anyone!

Improve my living situation and get a quieter, more spacious flat with a home office space. I moved in with my girlfriend which was decided and executed within one afternoon/evening the day the lockdown was announced. Much nicer and quieter here and I have a good working space. I still need to do some stuff to make it official but that should be finished within a month or two.

After cancelling out any benefit of giving up booze last November by drinking like a fish throughout December, I will now attempt to give up alcohol until I climb 8b, Preston North End get promoted or I finish the Eiger Ultra. Whichever happens first! I already cracked before the end of January when visiting friends in Switzerland and deciding having a fondue with water was just not going to happen. I did have a few weeks off booze though but I didn't climb 8b until May, the wheels have fallen off at Preston and my Eiger Ultra race was cancelled! Still probably boozing on average a bit too much.

This didn't change and probably got worse!

Written after 6 months...

So far so good this year, all things considered. Lockdown was actually good for me mentally as it allowed me to slow down and not have such a frantic hyper-anxious mindset that I had to be working on stuff all the time! It was also beneficial physically as I did a lot of basic strength training that I would normally avoid, particularly in the spring when I would just be climbing outdoors. The cruxes on routes felt a lot easier afterwards and I have maintained the training to a certain degree. I will keep the aims the same for the rest of the year with the focus on trying not to worry about work too much but also trying to generate some income after the summer. I will add a goal of completing my first bike packing tour as I am about to receive delivery of nice XC MTB bike that I ordered with this in mind.

After 12 month...

Not much changed after 6 months. I did the additional goal of a bike packing tour (the Zugspitze tour which was awesome!). I have to admit I didn't really find 2020 tough with all the stuff going on. With the exception of 3 weeks I could still do all the sport I like to do and did more overall than any other year in my life (Strava says I did 3073km 148,693m height gain of which 2400km was running), I still went on holiday to Carinthia, Italy and France and I had enough work to get by so I feel very lucky compared to how the pandemic has affected some people.

[SA Chris]

1) Get woody built by end of Jan.
I think it was up and running by lockdown, so March?
2) Get some ski tours done if we ever have a winter. Something on the west coast would be nice.
Covid fail
3) Sub 2 hours for Forfar Multi terrain half next month
1:52 I think?
4) Complete John Muir Way Ultra (stretch goal under 6 hours).
Covid fail - did all the hard training up to 40km runs before it was cancelled
5) Balmoral 15 miler in under 2 hours or Lairig Ghru race. Or both
Covid fail - LG actually went ahead, but i was on wait list, and was only offered a place 2 weeks before
6) Surf more
Don't know if more, but had some great days surfing when I've been allowed, notably Sandend, and an amazing morning at Bamburgh, place I've always wanted to surf.
7) Do last couple of boulder projects on the coast.
Did  few, acquired some more!
Do some mountain routes
Nope - fail. Can't really blame Covid
9) Do some more bouldering a bit further afield in Scotland; Clova, Lednock, Torridon.
Had a play at Primrose Bay, and some new stuff i found around Portnockie.
10) Do some bouldering in England for the first time in ages; Lakes, Northumberland or Grit.
Got to Northumberland, managed days at Kyloe in and Back Bowden.
11) Climb somewhere abroad, not overly bothered where.
Covid fail
12) Do a bit of Mountain Biking, feel like I've neglected it for too long now.
Got out with the kids on bikes a fair bit, but nothing remotely technical

Not on the list, but I managed to finish as second Male Super Vet in the winter 3 k running series, never placed in any running event before, and not really a short distance specialist.

[nik at work]

Nice running result Chris

[SA Chris]

Yep, never got the shop to spend the £20 voucher prize though! 3 k is actually a brutal distance, especially along the Aberdeen beachfront in winter, the 11:37 PB in the last one nearly had me puking.