[Fiend]

Goals:

STG: Process
MTG: Limit
LTG: Tick the German Ash next year for sure.


M: Afternoon pass. Struggling to decide on a venue somewhere between Hull and Holyhead. Traffic cams showed entire North of England soaked. Entered into trance state and determined there was one dry hold on a r-man lying down start to a 7B in Wilton 4. Went along, spent 45 minutes trying to fold all my limbs underneath the start, then managed to hang the hold. Mint session.

T: Yorkshire guidebook meeting. Tried to put forward a motion that I'm allowed to randomly downgrade F7cs at my leisure as well as 7Cs. Depot evening. Lanked past everything on the board. Toddler and new-born had shitting contest on mats. Good antagonist training clearing it up.

W: Hard session typing first draft of my refund application to Lattice training. Mild strain in wrist by page 17. Considered asking Tom and Ollie for advice but that might be taking the piss under the circumstances. Struggled to decide whether to train on board and pretend I wasn't training, or not train at all and moan about people who do train. Fell asleep wracked by the agony of indecision.

T: Push/pull/run/train day.
Early morning: Start with bench and feels good up to 90 for triples but 95 feels hard work. Move on to declines and call it at 90 as feels a bit niggly when lifting bar off the rack. Do some TRX flys which I always find hard. Then just squeeze a Swiss ball with arms outstretched for a few reps, which feels a good specific exercise. Finish with some kettlebell stability presses and some alternating front and lateral raises again with lots of control for stability.
Late morning: Depot. Just training. Campus board session goes really well with lots of grit and determination and finding benchmarks really comfortable. Then on to a fingerboard session. Repeaters on varied grip types. Warm and tough on slippers but finish it without too much trouble. Then do five pull ups on the minute working down the Transgression board. Safe to say by 6mm they are not the best of pull ups I’ve ever done. Finish off with some technique drills.
Lunchtime: Relaxing 15 mile run. Passed out mid-way through it. Struggled to get off the ground and decided I needed to work harder on next push day.
Early afternoon: Weather cleared up. Looked glorious on the edges. Pondered on actually going outside and doing some climbing but decided I might be weak and hadn't trained enough. Head to Big Depot. Lots of climbing reds, purples and yellows. Feel tired by the end of the session but in a good way.
Late afternoon: Pull session. Start with machine pull downs up to 140k for two reps. Move on to deadlift and 150k feels pretty steady  moving with good speed. Then dynamic rows, shrugs and Roman chair. Some prone rows and some iron cross movement and hold on the cables. Finally do some bicep work with a range of curls, although right arm feels really stiff where the tear is. Great.
Evening: Depot. Campus to warm up. Working laps on 1-4-7, some success, some near failures on right. Left is a country mile off and simply isn’t pulling at all. Sticking with it is the way and it will pay dividends in the end. Move on to working project style problems. On first problem struggle to start with but then get into the groove of it and end up falling off the top move. I will take that for tonight. Second problem, I make progress up until one move just stops me dead. Third problem, two overlapping halves, but no cigar

Decent day. Feel motivated despite slacking off for 30 seconds at one point. Probably need more volume.

F: Overhead farmer's press military walk with 0.765% bodyweight.

S: Big day out trying to fit in my final 8 classic Mild Severes of the year. Not helped by having 3 days left before 2020 and it having pissed down for 2 months, and me leaving the best Kinder MSes until last. Trudge out anyway, also taking all camera equipment and 80m static rope to see how well my legs are progressing after being pureed last year. Tiring but reassuring. Attempted Putrell's Cleft on Minge Wall, figuring I'd be able to wedge myself past the dripping lichen. This worked well and I got stuck for 2 hours. Girlfriend exceptionally bored and cold and fed up with the Classic MS plan. Eventually lost enough weight through panicking that I managed to slide back down and retreat with dignity. Still 8 to go...

S: Weighed in at 14 stone 8 pounds. Worrying. Intense training session for the German Ash. 15 second max hangs followed by 2 hours rest x 6. Spent rest times self-flagellating and researching how I can make long power endurance circuits look like actual power training from the outside so they stop cyber-bullying me. Inconclusive. Booked a spiritual retreat with Hazel. During 5th rest period went for a 25 minute piss and re-weighed myself at 10 stone 6. Must have been the 5 bottles of medicinal red wine the night before. Relieved. The Ash shall be mine!

[tomtom]

Superb!

👏👏👏

I’m honoured to get a mention 😂

[lagerstarfish]

Sounds like you just need to try harder.

And maybe climb faster.

[Will Hunt]

Who is Wednesday and Friday?

Very funny. Wadded.

[kingholmesy]

Who is Wednesday and Friday?

Friday must be Nibble?

Dunno about Wednesday, but am pretty sure I’ve got all the rest.

[nai]

Wednesday's Dan shirley?

[36chambers]

Bravo Fiend

I was halfway through Tuesday when I realised something was going on.

[Footwork]

 

[Nibile]

I do lots of fingerboarding also.
MoFo.

[andy popp]

God, I'm dumb. Took me forever to even spot what was going on. Total genius post Fiend.

ps. does anyone know who Gollum is? I feel it must be someone I knew back in the day.

[tomtom]

God, I'm dumb. Took me forever to even spot what was going on. Total genius post Fiend.

ps. does anyone know who Gollum is? I feel it must be someone I knew back in the day.

Took me until Friday. Though I was wondering which 7B in W4 it was 😂

[Will Hunt]

I read Tuesday and wondered what guidebook Fiend was working on and wtf had happened that he'd had kids. Then it clicked 

[andy popp]

Also, is anyone going to dare make a real post now.

[tomtom]

Also, is anyone going to dare make a real post now.

Well...

M: Was my 4th day on - work then went to Mad Volume in Hull. Alright time on the board, made some progress.

Th: As per Fiends Monday really! It had stopped raining - southerly wind. Went to W3... totally condensed out. Warm, and moist. Pointless. Went to Depot. Chatted to Mr GrapeScrote played on the board (did two ‘projects’) and went home.

Fr: packing for Xmas away - drove to Cottage near Leek in a foggy and wet evening. Toddler developing a cold... Heating bust at the cottage. Wood burner on full blast and an electric heater in lads bedroom made it alright but tricky.

Sa: Rain. Fog. Ramshaw piss wet through when I drove by at 10:30. Cleared in the afternoon and was just going to head out when a shower passed through and re-soaked everything. Went and had a look at a couple of things I wanted to try... Toddlers cold developing further... Heating fixed.

Su; Toddler had a bad night. Mine was worse. Banging headache, nausea, Slept half night on the couch,,, Woke up to good grit conditions (yay!) but couldn’t function until 4/5pm..

My cunning plan of Christmas-ing 10 min drive from some primo gritstone seems to be backfiring due to log conditions and log health. :D

[Fiend]

About bloody time. I've been quite serious about getting focused on my training as you can see. At least someone else is trying a bit... p.s. sorry about your Sat night TT. I think it was still pretty ming on the rock afaik.

[nai]

POTY candidate there, Fiend 

STG: Another Moonboard 7A, Font 7C
Spring 2020 Lime Font 7C.

M - Finger tip not completely heeled but was keen to finish Hot Toddy, the forecast suggested Froggatt would be taking the wind head on so seemed a decent option.
Unfortunately not though, lots of dampness (although HT was ok) and the trees were suppressing the wind down at Tody's Playground.
Quickly reworked the sequence then did it to the slopey jugs on the arete and at this point I realised the top was sopping and the slab was actually green slime and I din't fancy standing up on it above an awkward landing. Thought about another go but came to the conclusion that the result would be the same, bit of a bugger, from thinking it would go in about half an hour last week to needing a third visit.
Was heading away to Burbage but up to the edge decided to look at some of the stuff on Joe's Slab that I've never done and became embroiled in a game of trying to make my foot stick to the crap holds on the 6C+ in the middle. Did it with a lot of anticlimax.  Looked in on Stottie on the way out but it was wet.  Felt like a wasted day, I'm sure other areas would have been better
Home - Core


T - leg day
lunge 3x10 20kg
KB back squat 20kg
Front squat 3x10 upped weight to 34kg set 2&3
overhead squat 10kg
Hamstring extension
Incline pressups

W home board. Completed three projects, one of which was about three months old and quite hard, set in a MB style so you've only got one foot on and have to generate tension, a weakness I've been addressing and seem to be improving. Pleasing.

TRX
Core

Th rest



F - Moonboard. First time for almost a month. Started with a few 6A+/B flashes to get going, 3 months ago I was having to project these.
Started proper with a 6C+ with a finishing move whereby I can't reach the finishing hold off the available foothold so it's a pop off a couple of small crimpers. When I first tried it I couldn't do the move at all, then managed it in isolation but no chance of linking it, Felt steady today, second attempt from the start I think. 
Next up a 7A I'd managed in two sections last time alll biut the final match, I had to try so hard on the crux pop last time but it felt ok today and after dropping the last move being too casual I managed it third go.
Moved on to a 6C+ which I couldn't do the second move on.  Another one of those out of reach footholds, instead of a hand-foot match and rockover I tried another little pop but for a small crimp this time. This was highly improbable a month ago but amazingly I found I could manage this ok, albeit only every other attempt, the really big final move took a few times to latch but got it after a few near misses
Worked a couple of things that use the same start move but was flagging a bit.
Had a little play on the woody then had a decent HI Core session.

S rest
S nowt

HIt a bit of form, shame about the timing...

[moose]

I almost feel left out... my New Year's Resolution is to train enough to feel I can be a Power Clubber, so that Fiend can be satirical about me.

[shark]

11.3-6 158.5average up 0.1lb

M. Cold, cloudy. Roads wet. Burbage South boulders with Tom. Rock greasy. Warmed up and got stuck into Pock sit. Done this a couple of times in the past. Not today though. And opened healing tip up. Frustrating.
Eve Ergo Edge weighted deadhangs. Usual extended session - massive rest between hangs Good progress. Best hangs - strict half crimp +20kgx7secs and +22.5kgs x 6secs Factoring in bodyweight gain that’s finger strength back up to October level. Just need other body parts to catch up.

T.

W. PM Foundry. Good to catch up with folk. Campusing and Oak board project. Marked improvement compared to previous week with improved finger strength.

T. Weighted deadhangs on ergo edge. Best hangs Strict half crimp +22.5kg x 9secs and +25kg x 5secs. Also did some drags at end +27.5kg x 7sec and +30kg x 4 secs. (For ref latest Ergo Edge depth is 16mm inc champfeur) Dabbled with fast pull ups, barbell cleans and attempted front levers

F.

S. PM Foundry. Campus and board project. Not much progress. Ticked off a nails level 2 Fluoro yellow left of centre on steep bit and got close on pink in middle
Eve Party - got hammered.

S. PM systems board. Wasn’t expecting much but did well. Did mirrored crusher crimp benchmark back to back 2x2. New harder version of throw move (all fingers in undercut RH on bad screw on foothold). 3 repeats of gaston problem. 3 x 20/10s =360moves

Atrocious weather is a major downer but definitely back on track now and more psyched. Both boys home now so hopefully get a few good grit days in.

[SA Chris]

STG - 1200 km total of out door running for the year. Still 76km short.

M - nowt.
T - weight session - gym. Changed up, included some dumbell flies.
W - DOMS to fuck in pecs. Uneventful wall session, struggled to pull hard without pain.
T - not much, most of day in meetings.
F - 5.5k run at lunch, mild and damp. Glute tweaked last week feels OK though.
S - not much, started feeling ill, . Visited park with new equipment, got some climbing pentahedron thing, a bit challenging for kids in places, I could only just get up steepest side.
S - feel worse. Fed cold with massive lunch.

Cold better do one in the next 24 hours. Bah humbug.

[cheque]

is anyone going to dare make a real post now.

 

M- Fingerboard.

T- Rest.

W- Gym. Bike. As exhausting as ever. Same performance as last week.

T- Rest.

F- Awesome Walls weight belt session. 13 successful and unsuccessful pitches. 80s indie music (Wedding Present etc.) playing.

S- Checked out some wet northern Peak venues I'd never been to before- Upperwood Quarry (not as impressive as it looks from the road but obviously has some good routes), Den Lane Quarry (Impressively shit, not helped by having been on fire relatively recently, possibly has some good routes though), Pule Hill (very cool- keen to get back, actually had some dry stuff) and Worlow Quarry (Tiny, a 4x4 came down the approach track as I walked up, I assumed it was the farmer but it appears people just drive up there for the laugh?!) Cool afternoon really.

S- Weights at the gym AM. Matched my post-injury PBs in everything I did  . Later hiked out to Minge Wall from the Snake Summit. Not helped by having 2 hours left before nightfall and it having pissed down for 2 months. Girlfriend not exceptionally bored and cold but did stack it into the peat.  Felt like we squeezed the most out of the shortest day.

Four training sessions plus two days of yomping about. Feeling good.

[Nibile]

Honoured to get a mention in Fiend's post. 
Power Club

Mon - BM footless sequences. A few complexes.
Tue - rest.
Wed - pull ups, pulley, weights.
Thu - 13' of loaded carries. Push ups, abs Tabata.
Fri - overhead farmer's press military walk with 0.765% bodyweight.
Sat - rest.
Sun - fingers, garage session, very good. Bar work in between hangs. Weights.

[gollum]

Also honoured to be in Fiend’s post. I promise to climb outside more next year.

Last two weeks read, “Went snowboarding.”

[r-man]

I don't even do powerclub and I got namechecked. I think I need to start a lowball society. People make such a fuss about them. I think you are all closet lowballers, and afraid to come out.

Fiend, you once poked fun at my lowballs many years ago, and I named a tiny grovel at Blackstone in your honour. It's called "Bum Fiend."  You should try it one day. A sitstart mantel. You'll love it. Secretly.

_{(Wilton 4 is actually home to a load of highballs, btw. I know, this is a pointless protest.  )}

[duncan]

Fiend 😁😁😁. ‘tomtom’, ‘gollum’ and ‘cheque’ absolutely nailed!

Another twofer, too much travel and work but some decent climbing.

STG: rehab. elbow, enjoy climbing, fall off something. 
MTG: 7b+
LTG: classic sea-cliff E5 before 7.06.2020.

M - 5km run.
T - Westway: ~250m of easy.
W - Fingerboard: elbow rehab.
T - Fingerboard: elbow rehab. Shoulder strength.
F - Shoulder strength.
S - Wyndcliff Quarry with bridbeast. Not the finest venue but it was sunny and sheltered. ~80m of easy. Good day and a slight antidote to the gloom.
S - 3am start, off to Valencia. Checked in to the El Altico Refugio in Chulilla. Strongly recommended if you’ve not been, lovely people and place. Wandered around the gorge and did a 6a at Fantasía with a very hospitable German chap whose name escapes me. I don’t like to spray about my accomplishments but it was filmed by some Czech climbers.
M - Fantasía again, with Hobbit: Habana Club (bouldery 6b+, ie UK6a) and lots of easy.
T - La Peñeta with Hobbit: more easy including La Piedra de las Tajás (old school 6b).
W - Back to UK. Shoulder strength and a short fingerboard elbow rehab. session.
T - Westway bouldering: including 3x purples (v3-5).
F - Drove to Edinburgh. Short fingerboarding elbow rehab.
S - 20km Walk/run over the Pentlands.
S - Alien bloc, Edinburgh’s excellent bouldering wall: good session included x8 yellows (v3-5) and a decent pyramid below this. First respectable volume of climbing for 3 months, battered in a good way: climbing is beginning to feel more like training and less like rehab. Another long (13km) country walk.

Plan: enjoy Spain, try to redpoint something.

Season’s greetings everyone.

[Sasquatch]

God I've been bad about posting here.

M-Ancap Session, Strength work-Eccentric Pull-ups, Lever Holds, Isometric Deadlifts, Ring T's
T-Easy bouldering w son
W-rest
T-Moonboard 3 hour session, a few 7C's, then 6 7B or 7B+ Benchmarks
F-Strength - Eccentric Pull-ups, Eccentric 1-arm pushups, 1 arm ring i's. 
S-Rest
S-Roped session, WU, then 4 x 8a

[Fiend]

Duncan get ye to Eden Rock for God's sake. 3 times the size of Alien Bloc and 13 times the quality when I was there - especially in the low-mid grade stuff.

[duncan]

Duncan get ye to Eden Rock for God's sake. 3 times the size of Alien Bloc and 13 times the quality when I was there - especially in the low-mid grade stuff.

Everyone raves about Eden but it is 2 hours drive whereas Alien bloc is about 20 minute walk.

[teestub]

I’m not sure if you’re just talking about the horrendous traffic in Edinburgh, but there’s an Eden Rock just south of the city now

Eden Rock Edinburgh
Edgefield Road Industrial Estate, Loanhead EH20 9TB

[Fiend]

Yes, that one, lol 

[Murph]

Brilliant stuff fiend. Enough to bring me back out of lurk mode. Halfway through Monday I thought what genius is this. Thanks for making the effort.

[Fiend]

I'm just the messenger, you lot are a bunch of freaks and this power club pretty much wrote itself (quite literally in the case of thursday...) 

[nai]

you lot are a bunch of freaks

You say that like it's a bad thing