[mark s]

I had a brief attempt again 2 years ago.
ive decided to get the mojo back rolling again.

I remember last time finding it mentally hard struggling on stuff I would have found easy before.
I doubt I could get as light as I was before and don't really want to, I do have a bit of mass to shift just to make it easier on my body.
I had forgotten what it was like to be so obsessed with the fucking weather. im not in work this week and wanted to venture out. not a chance.

andi is already  trying to convince me to go to Utah next time he goes.
hope to see some old faces out and about again soon

[Fiend]

This autumn / winter has been dire so far. Hopefully it will settle down. I always wanted to meet up with you when I was getting down to the grit with Tris, cos you'd promised to slap him for him mocking me for using wrist straps....

[mark s]

 
yeah its not been great in leek. had the odd nice day. supposed to be out on Saturday but looking like a wall trip. going to one in macc I never knew about.

[Fiend]

Subby in Macc is great for it's size. Real nice hold selection and good setting. Warm in the cafe, cold in the wall. Yellows and pinks are nice warm-ups, reds good for crimpy stuff, blues for powerful slopey stuff, and blacks for proper gritty ball mauling (the main issue is that there's not so many good lower grade sloper problems, nor upper grade board style problems).

Get the Winking Man webcam on your bookmarks again....

[Oldmanmatt]

It’s not easy.

Even with everything I could possibly want, to train on and recover on, quite literally surrounding me as I type.

Age, injury and weight are a problem. I’m still very fit and strong, considering I’ve been laid up with a ruptured disc for 8 weeks now. I’ve gained all the weight back, that I fought to lose in the spring, etc.

However, I’ve come back more times than Rocky and I’m sure I’ll do so this time. I’m not setting such high goals though. I had this thing of trying to get back to high 7’s and maybe even a 8. But, I haven’t actually been there since ~2011/12. Got close, three years ago, then blew my MCL and hit a bad mental health spell.
Always impressed by the likes of Shark et al who push hard into their 50s (which awaits me in 1 year and ten days) but my mileage is showing and bits keep breaking.

What I’m trying to say, is:

You’re not alone and there are many positive examples of people making extraordinary progress and come backs.
And plenty of things that can scupper that.

I reckon, it’s actually all about enjoying it again.

If it’s a grind of disappointment and you’re not enjoying it, you probably won’t succeed. In fact, you’re better off taking a step back and redefining what “succeed” actually means to you. I don’t mean what it meant in the past, I mean what you need from it all, now.

I have to come to terms with the deceptively simple fact, that the me that did x,y&z at time T, in the past; isn’t actually here anymore.

But some of the stuff he learned, is.

[Fiend]

I'd say there is a 100% correlation between those who successfully push hard into their 50s, and those who are very light/lean (which helps prevent the dreaded injury too) 

[Paul B]

andi is already  trying to convince me to go to Utah next time he goes.

Where specifically? A lot of upper body strength seems to go a long way on the straighht-in Utah splitter cracks from what I've seen (it's exhausting).

[Oldmanmatt]

I'd say there is a 100% correlation between those who successfully push hard into their 50s, and those who are very light/lean (which helps prevent the dreaded injury too)

Where do you sit?

I’ve been struggling to keep myself below 80kg and feel my fighting weight is ~75/6. Currently bounced straight back to 85, just on reduced activity.

Essentially, I have to running/TABing frequently to keep on top of that, even on a calorie controlled regime.
I work (mostly) as a coach and personal trainer, so I’m active even when injured.

[steveri]

I've a feeling we chatted at Newstones in the Spring, whilst you were walking your dog?

I had a 10-12 year lay off while my kids were young and have been rebuilding mojo for 2-3 years.
Struggled comparing current self to old self for a while (never got anywhere past 7A+/7B even when 'strong'). Non patronising thoughts from climbing the same hill:
Enjoy the movement on rock
Climb with some younger people full of psyche ...so most people at the wall
Surprise yourself occasionally with something that really suits
Weight is harder to shift but does
Happily walk away from stuff that doesn't suit your quirks and creaks
Have fun, it's great

[cheque]

I remember last time finding it mentally hard struggling on stuff I would have found easy before.

I found this really hard at first but I've embraced the love of easier climbing to the extent that I'm actively choosing to do really good trad  rather than pushing to do harder grades on bolts. In a way I've never enjoyed climbing as much as I did this year.

To be honest remembering something you'd put on here on one of your previous comebacks along the lines of "All the best routes are HVS anyway" and that kind of inspired me so cheers. 

[Fiend]

andi is already  trying to convince me to go to Utah next time he goes.

Where specifically? A lot of upper body strength seems to go a long way on the straighht-in Utah splitter cracks from what I've seen (it's exhausting).

LOL. I can imagine Mark "the beast" S transforming a few finger cracks into hand cracks, etc, by the time he's finished 

[Fiend]

I'd say there is a 100% correlation between those who successfully push hard into their 50s, and those who are very light/lean (which helps prevent the dreaded injury too)

Where do you sit?

On one end of the see-saw. With Shark and Paul B on the other end. And it's still tipping the wrong way.

Anyway.

Top advice from SteveRi there - enjoying the beauty of the movement on rock, the aesthetics, the lines, exploring new stuff if possible.... I've been mercilessly humbled on the grit recently, but once detatching myself from the pack of lies that is bouldering grades, I've just relished the feel of it.

[T_B]

I'd say there is a 100% correlation between those who successfully push hard into their 50s, and those who are very light/lean (which helps prevent the dreaded injury too)

Hmm. Some people are just more prone to injury for various reasons? I know plenty of late 40 something lightweights with niggles.

My take on this whilst considering a bit of a comeback myself (it's not like I stopped climbing, but I have been putting more and more time into running the past 4 years), is you can come back with a fresh approach.

There's an opportunity with renewed enthusiasm to look at things differently. In training, or in terms of where you want to put your energies and what rewards you seek.

Climbers who have been climbing a long time tend to do the same things. I'm actually thinking about doing a Wideboyz jamming course. Like, I can finger and hand jam, but I doubt I've ever done anything harder than 5.10c/E4 of 'proper' jamming. I once had a go at Gigglin Crack and got nowhere. It would be great to try something like Ray's Roof and have a bit of an idea of what the hell to do!

[mark s]

good to see im not alone.
15 odd years ago there were no kids or a wife to lay down the rules.

paul, it may be red rocks. it has a route called bad berries andi is wanting to do. off width .13a

fiend
id have to open the finger cracks to have any chance of pulling on them. I think you are speaking some sense about the old climbers who keep their weight down keeping healthy and pushing the grades.
I do wonder how 8 years of weights has changed my frame beyond just muscle weight.

cheque I think as you get older you look for different ways to get your kicks. quality of movement and just enjoying yourself are the boxes to tick.

steve, not sure as I haven't had a dog for a few years. cheers for the tips.

[Hoseyb]

Be a good thread for Andy to chip in on as he seems to finally settling as an ex exclimber. I also (believe it or not) get drops in mojo, and plenty of the Can't Be Arsed's. I've reconciled to this by thinking about what made the good days actually good, and with a bit of analysis, created an objective for every outing. For me, that's basically to have weird adventure and hum the Indiania Jones theme to myself. For others it may be the love of progression (any progression). Others may just be into the hippy stuff.
Find your focus and stick to it.

[Andy F]

Mark,

Losing the mojo, then getting it back is something I gave a little history with...

Don't expect to walk back at your previous levels. Don't expect to be a grade or two below. Expect to be crap. But remember this. Your mind knows how to climb, your body has forgotten. The gap is enormous. You can close it.

It will take time, you will get annoyed that things that were piss are now nails. You will get burnt off by skinny youths.

But (as I said before) your mind knows how to climb.

The weight will come off. The moves will get easier. Your climbing mind will shine through (call it old man cunning, I do) and you'll show the youths a thing or two.

Enjoy the journey. It'll be twisty. Or twisted.

[SA Chris]

I've lost count of the number of comebacks I've had, it gets easier to comeback the more often you do it. My focus has probably shifted more to running too, but climbing has always ticked over. If I ever get the woody in the garage finished I might dedicate the summer to getting some proper climbing done, once I get the ultra out the way at the end of March.

I recommend forgetting what you used to be able to do, clear it from your mind and start afresh, and just enjoy the process of improving. Moving somewhere completely new, or even just avoiding haunts makes it easier to avoid failing on things you used to piss up!

And go to Joe's Valley. Book the flights. Nothing gets the psyche back like an impending trip.
 

[mrjonathanr]

I’ve spotted a couple of new lines on Hen Cloud I may need some help with...

[mark s]

I’ve spotted a couple of new lines on Hen Cloud I may need some help with...

what a crag.
roaches can be rammed yet hen cloud has 1 or 2 parties.

[Ged]

Belly full of bad berries? Indian creek. One of my favourite places on earth. You can't fail to enjoy it there. An amazing environment to go climbing in.

Take painkillers and tape.

[SA Chris]

I'd say there is a 100% correlation between those who successfully push hard into their 50s, and those who are very light/lean (which helps prevent the dreaded injury too)

Do you classify me as light  / lean? If so, the lack of injury is a delusion. Everyone gets injured if they push hard in later life., regardless of physique.

[Ged]

I reckon the correlation is more with those who take recovery seriously. Very carefully thought out nutrition, not much booze, and lots of rest days. Like girly frequently taking 3 days off from anything intense. I know a few people who are doing well at climbing and running into their 50's,and that seems to be their secret. Not just thrashing yourself all the time, even when you feel good.

[SA Chris]

girly frequently??

I know running has definitely helped keep me lean(er), as my nutrition is often "sub-optimal".

[tomtom]

I’ve just tipped into my second half century and am climbing better than ever.

Two things have helped - first working 50% fte - which gives me more time to be able to get out but had generally helped my stress levels and mental health. Second ditching booze - tthis will be my third booze free new year - aside from some health benefits I can eat pretty much what I like (Within reason) and keep at a sensible weight.

No nutrition or training plans - I try and climb 3 or more times a week, and my sessions are usually short. Going to try a winter of using mainly steep boards when I have to go to the wall and see how that pans out (it’s already helped my tennis elbow)

[SA Chris]

My alcohol consumption rarely exceeds 2 units a week, and is often zero. Definitely helps with health as well as getting up on a Saturday or Sunday mornings.

[Fiend]

Lightness and leaness is necessary for climbing success (and injury reduction) later in life, but not always sufficient - obviously.

[Ged]

Sorry, fairly not girly!