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James Malloch said:
highrepute said:
I also got one of those splints when I saw this James guy in Sheffield. He did explain where he was getting them from but I can't remember, perhaps it was this guy. Quite possible it was which would be a great endorsement.

Anyway, the splint seemed to really help. But this was my first pulley I jury so I've no reference point.

The type Andy makes are in his video here: https://youtu.be/07kZgRJ3dmg

Yeah that's not the same. And the way it's used looks to be very different too.

I thought voklers paper had shown that H taping was better for protecting A2 than taping over the actual pulley?
 
highrepute said:
James Malloch said:
highrepute said:
I also got one of those splints when I saw this James guy in Sheffield. He did explain where he was getting them from but I can't remember, perhaps it was this guy. Quite possible it was which would be a great endorsement.

Anyway, the splint seemed to really help. But this was my first pulley I jury so I've no reference point.

The type Andy makes are in his video here: https://youtu.be/07kZgRJ3dmg

Yeah that's not the same. And the way it's used looks to be very different too.

I thought voklers paper had shown that H taping was better for protecting A2 than taping over the actual pulley?

I‘ve no idea on which is better if I‘m honest. Never looked at Volkers stuff.

I know Andy is massively into the research/papers side so I‘d assume that this product is the results of plenty of research. I know that one benefit is that you can tape really tight without restricting blood flow too much. And that means the stretch/loosening of the tape is reduced too.

He says the below but no idea which type of taping it refers to.

Flexor Pulley Splints follow the same principles of taping, but provide much more support. It is possible to wear them for hours at a time, even when climbing (at the appropriate stage of rehab). They allow for adequate blood flow to the finger whilst providing effective support.
 
Damn! First A2 in YEARS!

Very mild, ring finger on my right hand. I suspect doing a max hangs test session to "see where I'm at" plus a short but intense boulder session after (just a couple of problems, limit stuff, maybe 10 attempts in total after a couple of slightly less full on boulders).

Feels so mild/minor that I can probably take a short bit of rest and just avoid boning on it for a while but don't want to make it worse. My middle finger A2s are somewhat life-long chronically grumbly (and have a lump on the side of the RH one) but they never hurt while climbing, and generally get better with maintenance fingerboarding.

Any thoughts non rehabbing a very mild, but definitely "new" A2.
 
Fultonius said:
Damn! First A2 in YEARS!

Very mild, ring finger on my right hand. I suspect doing a max hangs test session to "see where I'm at" plus a short but intense boulder session after (just a couple of problems, limit stuff, maybe 10 attempts in total after a couple of slightly less full on boulders).

Feels so mild/minor that I can probably take a short bit of rest and just avoid boning on it for a while but don't want to make it worse. My middle finger A2s are somewhat life-long chronically grumbly (and have a lump on the side of the RH one) but they never hurt while climbing, and generally get better with maintenance fingerboarding.

Any thoughts non rehabbing a very mild, but definitely "new" A2.

6 sets of 30 second density lifts, 1 minutes rest with a 20mm edge, starting with whatever weight feels like 3/10 pain maximum and slowly build that weight up. I do these as part of my warmup now as it’s basically free prehab. I do density hangs into fingerboard hangs and then I’m ready to climb.
 
Dingdong said:
Fultonius said:
Damn! First A2 in YEARS!

Very mild, ring finger on my right hand. I suspect doing a max hangs test session to "see where I'm at" plus a short but intense boulder session after (just a couple of problems, limit stuff, maybe 10 attempts in total after a couple of slightly less full on boulders).

Feels so mild/minor that I can probably take a short bit of rest and just avoid boning on it for a while but don't want to make it worse. My middle finger A2s are somewhat life-long chronically grumbly (and have a lump on the side of the RH one) but they never hurt while climbing, and generally get better with maintenance fingerboarding.

Any thoughts non rehabbing a very mild, but definitely "new" A2.

6 sets of 30 second density lifts, 1 minutes rest with a 20mm edge, starting with whatever weight feels like 3/10 pain maximum and slowly build that weight up. I do these as part of my warmup now as it’s basically free prehab. I do density hangs into fingerboard hangs and then I’m ready to climb.

I also did this, 30 second lifts. Every day, really low intensity, slowly built up. Worked a treat.
 
Wellsy said:
Dingdong said:
Fultonius said:
Damn! First A2 in YEARS!

Very mild, ring finger on my right hand. I suspect doing a max hangs test session to "see where I'm at" plus a short but intense boulder session after (just a couple of problems, limit stuff, maybe 10 attempts in total after a couple of slightly less full on boulders).

Feels so mild/minor that I can probably take a short bit of rest and just avoid boning on it for a while but don't want to make it worse. My middle finger A2s are somewhat life-long chronically grumbly (and have a lump on the side of the RH one) but they never hurt while climbing, and generally get better with maintenance fingerboarding.

Any thoughts non rehabbing a very mild, but definitely "new" A2.

6 sets of 30 second density lifts, 1 minutes rest with a 20mm edge, starting with whatever weight feels like 3/10 pain maximum and slowly build that weight up. I do these as part of my warmup now as it’s basically free prehab. I do density hangs into fingerboard hangs and then I’m ready to climb.

I also did this, 30 second lifts. Every day, really low intensity, slowly built up. Worked a treat.

I think this is pretty much the gold standard of A2 rehab other than maybe injecting BPC-157 between your fingers :lol:
 
Fultonius said:
Damn! First A2 in YEARS!

Very mild, ring finger on my right hand. I suspect doing a max hangs test session to "see where I'm at" plus a short but intense boulder session after (just a couple of problems, limit stuff, maybe 10 attempts in total after a couple of slightly less full on boulders).

Feels so mild/minor that I can probably take a short bit of rest and just avoid boning on it for a while but don't want to make it worse. My middle finger A2s are somewhat life-long chronically grumbly (and have a lump on the side of the RH one) but they never hurt while climbing, and generally get better with maintenance fingerboarding.

Any thoughts non rehabbing a very mild, but definitely "new" A2.

When did you notice initial symptoms?
 
yetix said:
Fultonius said:
Damn! First A2 in YEARS!

Very mild, ring finger on my right hand. I suspect doing a max hangs test session to "see where I'm at" plus a short but intense boulder session after (just a couple of problems, limit stuff, maybe 10 attempts in total after a couple of slightly less full on boulders).

Feels so mild/minor that I can probably take a short bit of rest and just avoid boning on it for a while but don't want to make it worse. My middle finger A2s are somewhat life-long chronically grumbly (and have a lump on the side of the RH one) but they never hurt while climbing, and generally get better with maintenance fingerboarding.

Any thoughts non rehabbing a very mild, but definitely "new" A2.

When did you notice initial symptoms?

When I woke up this morning. Got full ROM no pain but HC gives me a noticeable sensation at the A2. Probably not even a grade 1! Grade 0.4 strain :lol:
 
I had a similarly minor sprain back in June. I went to Andy (Biscuit on here) - his advice was to tape it up and "mummify" the finger so that you can't half crimp on it. Open hand only when actually climbing. Then constant stretching and periodic open hand hangs to stimulate blood flow to the finger. Still took a few months before it felt okay (but then I was and still am in a state of chronic stress, so healing was pretty slow).
 
M1V0 said:
I had a similarly minor sprain back in June. I went to Andy (Biscuit on here) - his advice was to tape it up and "mummify" the finger so that you can't half crimp on it. Open hand only when actually climbing. Then constant stretching and periodic open hand hangs to stimulate blood flow to the finger. Still took a few months before it felt okay (but then I was and still am in a state of chronic stress, so healing was pretty slow).

I find this interesting and wonder if Andy/Biscuit is reading and can clarify? My understanding of A2s was that they had effectively no/very little blood supply, and that most of the repair and nutrients came from synovial fluid? And that the transport of this came through pressure cycles of loading/unloading, hence it being worth having a decent amount of protein digested in your system pre-training (something I had started doing regularly last year but come to think of it have totally slacked off on this year...)

I'm not shooting the messenger here - and it probably makes little difference to the rehab (except that I will remember to eat some mackerel pre session again!)
 
Fultonius said:
yetix said:
Fultonius said:
Damn! First A2 in YEARS!

Very mild, ring finger on my right hand. I suspect doing a max hangs test session to "see where I'm at" plus a short but intense boulder session after (just a couple of problems, limit stuff, maybe 10 attempts in total after a couple of slightly less full on boulders).

Feels so mild/minor that I can probably take a short bit of rest and just avoid boning on it for a while but don't want to make it worse. My middle finger A2s are somewhat life-long chronically grumbly (and have a lump on the side of the RH one) but they never hurt while climbing, and generally get better with maintenance fingerboarding.

Any thoughts non rehabbing a very mild, but definitely "new" A2.

When did you notice initial symptoms?

When I woke up this morning. Got full ROM no pain but HC gives me a noticeable sensation at the A2. Probably not even a grade 1! Grade 0.4 strain :lol:

I'd take 3 days off to let the initial inflammation sort itself before doing anything and then go from there personally. But I always take 3 days off if something feels like I might have injured it. I'm sure I've read before that it's 48-72 hours for inflammation to settle(think inflammation peaks at 1-3 days if I recall correctly)

Ideally don't mess with it at all during those 72 hours (I personally x tape during this period just because I have adhd and it reminds me not to poke it every 5 minutes)

If you're not certain see a physio
 
Thanks. Aye, that was my rough plan. (especially the mot prodding/testing thing).

Just nipped out for a bacon roll to maximise rehab. :lol:
 
A2 update. All going well.

Took 5/6 days off completely. No taping, no massage, no ice. Just rest and avoiding any pain.

Then I built up daily with 2 sessions of half crimp, just using enough load to get to the "sensation" point, without pain. Often this meant very low load on the first couple of reps. 10 reps of 10s hangs, twice a day.

I've been doing that since around Monday /Tuesday this week and I'm already up to around 80/90% BW on the big BM2k slots, strict half crimp with NO PAIN. I'm holding myself back as I know it can be easy to overdo it in the early stages. The first rep or 2 often feels a sensation then nothing on the next reps, no pain during the day. Most mornings there's a tiny bit of increased sensation but it goes away with a few hand squeezes. No swelling, not sore to touch.

On Thursday I did a 20 minute ARC session, no pain at all.

All in, very happy with progress - just need to keep taking it easy for a bit and I think all will be well!
 
Up to solid half crimp, bodyweight (80kg) on 20mm edge.

I've had 4 or 5 decent endurance sessions, slightly above ARC level. Little bit of bouldering, avoiding crimps. Both times I could feel it a little afterwords, but fine next day. I suspect I'm treading the line of "too much too soon", so trying to keep it sensible. I feel that this is probably the critical point - moving from controlled fingerboard to more variable climbing...
 
Sounds like it’s all headed in the right direction fult, just try to not to get over excited!!

I’ve always had good luck using the metolious squeeze balls for a finger rehab. They’re not gonna fix anything on their own obviously but I definitely think they help with the alignment of scar tissue and letting you get a few for where the injury is at in a safe way.
 
Moo said:
Sounds like it’s all headed in the right direction fult, just try to not to get over excited!!

The inevitable...

On Thursday I warmed up at the Propstore, the usual, progressively harder half crimp hangs on the fingerboard. 20mm & BW, fine. 10mm & BW, fine. Did some recruitment pulls on a 21mm campus edge one handed, fine. No pain, totally solid.

So, decided to have a short, carful boulder session before some gym work. All went well. Had some feeling of sensation around the A2 after one problem but it went away in 10-15 seconds and didn't notice it at all for the rest of the session. Finished early after maybe 15-20 attempts at various problems. No pain all day.

Woke up next morning, A2 a bit stiff and sore :'( Kinda tender and noticeable all day, to be honest, almost as much as when I first hurt it.... Had to climb 3 wind turbines, so 150m of ladder climbing. Feltnit a bit, but probably mainly just from the square metal rungs.

This morning it was ok, a bit of sensation/soreness first few fist clenches. Tentatively built up to 80%ish BW half crimp on the board, noticeable mild sensation (still not really "pain"). Feeling ok all day.

Thought I'd fucked it, but probably ok. :devangel:
 
Based on my generalised multiple injury management learning from guru Biscuit, I would say you might be okay with the day-after-day-after having a noticable drop in pain. Obviously ease off for a bit and, errr, try not to get over excited....
 


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