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Kilter Board (Read 13384 times)

crimpinainteasy

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#25 Re: Kilter Board
February 22, 2024, 03:41:26 pm
In terms of boulders I like, much like jwi I rate Jimmy's blocs and also griffin whitesides generally and just try to work my way through theirs.

Also can't say I massively agree with the overgraded comments, they're just quite basic no? I have to drop my grade by 2 grades at least normally compared to what I'd do in the same time on rock.

I think it's partly dependent on the grade you're climbing at. I find the kilter board is particularly soft at the 7B and below range but evens out at v10+.

Wellsy

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#26 Re: Kilter Board
February 22, 2024, 03:56:29 pm
In terms of boulders I like, much like jwi I rate Jimmy's blocs and also griffin whitesides generally and just try to work my way through theirs.

Also can't say I massively agree with the overgraded comments, they're just quite basic no? I have to drop my grade by 2 grades at least normally compared to what I'd do in the same time on rock.

I think it's partly dependent on the grade you're climbing at. I find the kilter board is particularly soft at the 7B and below range but evens out at v10+.

Jesus stab me right in the heart why don't you? Lol

yetix

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#27 Re: Kilter Board
February 22, 2024, 07:17:28 pm
I do 7Bs faster outside than on a kb for what it's worth. 7C is my peak on kb, I've done two I think and both took 3 sessions. I've done 100ish 7Cs outside by comparison and done a few in that many goes. Styles and what you're used to I would guess?

abarro81

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#28 Re: Kilter Board
February 22, 2024, 07:25:12 pm
I think Kilter is pretty soft if you like big moves on good holds. I've never flashed 8A outside but supposedly did on my first session on the Kilter. I thought lots of the 7B-C stuff would probably be 1-2 grades easier on the Moonboard... But I do like big moves on good holds

jwi

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#29 Re: Kilter Board
February 23, 2024, 10:35:51 am
I don't understand indoor grading of boulders at all. Outdoors, I expect to climb about the same grade regardless if it is in Ogawayama, Yosemite or Fontainbleau. Indoor I have to calibrate at every gym even though they use much of the same brand of holds.

I don't think it is particularly useful to compare flash-grades inside and outside though. Especially on boards. Unless it is the first time in your life you touch the specific holds on a problem it is not flash. And quite often two board problems share the same move somewhere, and if you've done one, the second can never be a flash.

If allowing flash on boards I would expect to flash harder grades indoors than outdoors. The same for any indoor wall really. If I go to a gym a few times and do some circuits, I know all the holds in the gym and thus can never truly flash again.

JamieG

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#30 Re: Kilter Board
February 23, 2024, 10:38:56 am
I don't understand indoor grading of boulders at all.

Fixed that for you (and in reality everyone else too).  ;D

crimpinainteasy

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#31 Re: Kilter Board
February 23, 2024, 08:43:52 pm
I don't understand indoor grading of boulders at all. Outdoors, I expect to climb about the same grade regardless if it is in Ogawayama, Yosemite or Fontainbleau. Indoor I have to calibrate at every gym even though they use much of the same brand of holds.

I don't think it is particularly useful to compare flash-grades inside and outside though. Especially on boards. Unless it is the first time in your life you touch the specific holds on a problem it is not flash. And quite often two board problems share the same move somewhere, and if you've done one, the second can never be a flash.

If allowing flash on boards I would expect to flash harder grades indoors than outdoors. The same for any indoor wall really. If I go to a gym a few times and do some circuits, I know all the holds in the gym and thus can never truly flash again.

Tbh I don't think grades don't make that much sense in general. I.e. I feel like 7b at the cuttings, 7b in cheddar, and 7b in Mallorca all feel different even accounting for style.

 

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