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The Joker bloc (Read 22178 times)

Orrincoley

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The Joker bloc
December 02, 2019, 12:30:49 pm
Can't tell exactly, nor do I know how recent this actually happened. But from Buster Martin's Instagram Story, the bloc used to start The Joker has been broken?
From his story he seems to think you can't even do it now, so you can only do The Ace...

https://instagram.com/stories/bustermartin?igshid=d3lmv3xxrx0b

Ally Smith

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#1 Re: The Joker bloc
December 02, 2019, 12:35:26 pm
Saw this too. Shocking vandalism if someone has taken a crowbar to it (as implied by Buster's insta story).

Gareth (guardian of peakbouldering.info) said the block was there a week ago, so we can narrow down the time window for the block's demise.

Orrincoley

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#2 Re: The Joker bloc
December 02, 2019, 12:39:38 pm
Just spoke to him and he actually said it's been moved, so maybe it could be put back in theory?

In all honesty, as shocking as it is, I almost see it as a positive thing?
Most ascents of The Joker these days are stand on bloc, swing in, swing out to the top. It's barely even a climb anymore...
When The Ace is very logical to start at and is a full climb, without room for "cheating"...

r-man

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#3 Re: The Joker bloc
December 02, 2019, 12:50:20 pm
I heard from Dawid it was like this when he was there on Friday. Joker now only possible from stacked pads. He thought it looked like it had slipped downhill. Freeze thaw action perhaps?

He also reckoned it was in a dodgy spot now for the landing. He suggests perhaps it should be moved properly out of the way. Would take a few people to do though.



Dexter

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#4 Re: The Joker bloc
December 02, 2019, 02:13:32 pm
Wait... you can't all reach the joker holds from the floor??

Seriously though what amount of pad stacking then becomes acceptable for this?

cheque

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#5 Re: The Joker bloc
December 02, 2019, 02:37:34 pm
He thought it looked like it had slipped downhill. Freeze thaw action perhaps?

Waterlogged ground would be a more likely explanation I think.

cofe

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#6 Re: The Joker bloc
December 02, 2019, 02:46:58 pm
He thought it looked like it had slipped downhill. Freeze thaw action perhaps?

Waterlogged ground would be a more likely explanation I think.

Yeah, when I saw him the other day he reckoned loads of water and it had slipped and tipped over. Landing not great now.

Paul B

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#7 Re: The Joker bloc
December 02, 2019, 03:03:56 pm
Many moons ago, during a night session, a group of now wads had this boulder on its teetering point, declaring the Ace was the superior problem and the Joker should be no more...

 :tumble:

AMorris

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#8 Re: The Joker bloc
December 02, 2019, 04:40:34 pm
Just spoke to him and he actually said it's been moved, so maybe it could be put back in theory?

In all honesty, as shocking as it is, I almost see it as a positive thing?
Most ascents of The Joker these days are stand on bloc, swing in, swing out to the top. It's barely even a climb anymore...
When The Ace is very logical to start at and is a full climb, without room for "cheating"...

Hmmmm, sounds like a somewhat privileged position only someone strong enough to do the Ace could take ;)

Bonjoy

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#9 Re: The Joker bloc
December 02, 2019, 04:47:36 pm
Many moons ago, during a night session, a group of now wads had this boulder on its teetering point, declaring the Ace was the superior problem and the Joker should be no more...

 :tumble:
Should be easy enough to see if it has slid as you'd expect if due to wet ground, or been flipped as would most likely be the case if moved by hand.
Is it upside down or not?

haydn jones

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#10 Re: The Joker bloc
December 02, 2019, 04:49:59 pm
2 classics destroyed in 1 weekend. I've been getting reports that the pinch after the crimp you jump to on voyager has crumbled away.

Bonjoy

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#11 Re: The Joker bloc
December 02, 2019, 04:54:00 pm
Many moons ago, during a night session, a group of now wads had this boulder on its teetering point, declaring the Ace was the superior problem and the Joker should be no more...

 :tumble:
Should be easy enough to see if it has slid as you'd expect if due to wet ground, or been flipped as would most likely be the case if moved by hand.
Is it upside down or not?
Looks flipped/rolled from Insta pic, it's upside down.

Orrincoley

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#12 Re: The Joker bloc
December 02, 2019, 06:08:21 pm
Just spoke to him and he actually said it's been moved, so maybe it could be put back in theory?

In all honesty, as shocking as it is, I almost see it as a positive thing?
Most ascents of The Joker these days are stand on bloc, swing in, swing out to the top. It's barely even a climb anymore...
When The Ace is very logical to start at and is a full climb, without room for "cheating"...

Hmmmm, sounds like a somewhat privileged position only someone strong enough to do the Ace could take ;)

There is a certain irony to my opinion, yes. I'd like to think it's somewhat logical at least though.... Right?  :-\

From talking to Buster he seemed convinced it had been flipped using a crowbar or something.

Shame about Voyager if that's true though...

Johnny Brown

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#13 Re: The Joker bloc
December 02, 2019, 06:39:55 pm
Been up today. There's absolutely no way this moved naturally. The good news it looks like it won't be too hard to put back. Then Dense won't have to break anyone's legs.

36chambers

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#14 Re: The Joker bloc
December 02, 2019, 07:14:00 pm
Been up today. There's absolutely no way this moved naturally. The good news it looks like it won't be too hard to put back. Then Dense won't have to break anyone's legs.

If someone puts it back, can you make it an inch or so higher/closer? Asking for a friend...

Footwork

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#15 Re: The Joker bloc
December 02, 2019, 08:16:31 pm
Deffo put this back if possible - classic Jerry problem.

Moo

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#16 Re: The Joker bloc
December 02, 2019, 08:20:41 pm
Right can everybody just put down their alibi in writing now please.

Where were you every hour of every day for the last week ?

Doylo

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#17 Re: The Joker bloc
December 02, 2019, 08:22:35 pm
Been up today. There's absolutely no way this moved naturally. The good news it looks like it won't be too hard to put back. Then Dense won't have to break anyone's legs.

8a is beneath him anyway. He’ll just make shapes on the Ace.

tim palmer

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#18 Re: The Joker bloc
December 02, 2019, 08:33:42 pm
It is remarkable moving the boulder has made the landing worse, has a big hole in the ground been created?

36chambers

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#19 Re: The Joker bloc
December 02, 2019, 08:34:28 pm
Deffo put this back if possible - classic Jerry problem.

Thinking about it, I'm actually quite happy it's gone. Just leave it as it is.

Footwork

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#20 Re: The Joker bloc
December 02, 2019, 08:40:59 pm
Deffo put this back if possible - classic Jerry problem.

Thinking about it, I'm actually quite happy it's gone. Just leave it as it is.

Don't worry, I can still reach the holds standing on the block where it is now  :jab:

Will Hunt

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#21 Re: The Joker bloc
December 02, 2019, 08:49:32 pm
Why is Ben bothered? He'd just stack the pads anyway?

teestub

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#22 Re: The Joker bloc
December 02, 2019, 09:26:34 pm
Why is Ben bothered? He'd just stack the pads anyway?

Stacking pads seems like a better option anyway, removes the arbitrary height restriction of the old start!  ;D

Footwork

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#23 Re: The Joker bloc
December 02, 2019, 09:28:22 pm
Why is Ben bothered? He'd just stack the pads anyway?

Stacking pads seems like a better option anyway, removes the arbitrary height restriction of the old start!  ;D

Harder to get a good jump start too  :whistle:

highrepute

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#24 Re: The Joker bloc
December 02, 2019, 09:39:50 pm
2 classics destroyed in 1 weekend. I've been getting reports that the pinch after the crimp you jump to on voyager has crumbled away.

I'll be gutted if this is true  :wavecry:

 

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