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Naturally strong? (Read 24246 times)

Yossarian

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#25 Re: Naturally strong?
November 26, 2019, 08:39:36 pm
I always thought the previous Lattice record of 85kg was down to the fact that there are so many strong but lightweight blokes on their books who, even with substantial added weight are still below 80kg.

Last time I brought it up Jwi mentioned his 8b+ mate who weighs 100kg which I, as a relatively scrawny 88kg, found pretty inspiring. Love these tales of hefty beasts...

Nigel

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#26 Re: Naturally strong?
November 26, 2019, 09:02:55 pm
Gaskins is the Barry Bonds of british bouldering. Needs an asterisk next to all of his FAs.  ;)

Yes, they should.

And at the bottom of the page there should be another asterisk, followed by the phrase "look upon my works ye mighty, and despair!".

Love the G

remus

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#27 Re: Naturally strong?
November 26, 2019, 10:35:47 pm
I always thought the previous Lattice record of 85kg was down to the fact that there are so many strong but lightweight blokes on their books who, even with substantial added weight are still below 80kg.

Pretty much. Once you get above ~75kg the number of climbers ticking big numbers (i.e. 9a, V14) thins out a lot. Even the big guys aren't really that heavy e.g. Jan Hojer is ~78kg.

wasbeen

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#28 Re: Naturally strong?
November 27, 2019, 08:15:07 am

...decent considering i couldn't hang off a bar with one arm when i first started climbing!

... that's heartening to hear. Since then have you made steady year-on-year improvements or were the big gains mainly in the first year or so?

dunnyg

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#29 Re: Naturally strong?
November 27, 2019, 10:33:36 am
Slightly off topic, but I had a play on one of those beastmaker 6 mm edges last night, I couldn't hang it in the slightest.
I can hold the 8 mm for 10, even with a few extra kg (random weight belt I found at the wall), I have no idea how you get your fingers strong enough to start pulling on them!

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#30 Re: Naturally strong?
November 27, 2019, 10:49:06 am
I've done one a couple times, for between 1 and 1¼ seconds :) Main issue seems to be finger pulp crushing and them being slightly rounded.

moose

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#31 Re: Naturally strong?
November 27, 2019, 10:54:36 am
I think its a matter of practice improving your pain tolerance.  I'm not strong by any definition but can hang then (2-handed of course) - but I have had practice hanging the small holds on a slippy resin Transgression board (my warm up when in peak form used to finish with 10s hangs on the Transgression 7 and 6 mm edges, sometimes with 2.5 to 5kg added). 

That said, after years of climbing, I cannot / can barely hang one-armed from a bar (manage a few seconds then have to drop as I feel my shoulder will tear from its socket).

Will Hunt

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#32 Re: Naturally strong?
November 27, 2019, 11:10:13 am
Going back to the OP, can we have this Beastmaker's calibration checked for depth of hold and verticality of installation? We don't want to end up with another "dunnyg does 1-4-7" or "Footwork does rep after rep of 45 slopers pull ups" scenario.

AMorris

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#33 Re: Naturally strong?
November 27, 2019, 11:30:52 am
Slightly off topic, but I had a play on one of those beastmaker 6 mm edges last night, I couldn't hang it in the slightest.
I can hold the 8 mm for 10, even with a few extra kg (random weight belt I found at the wall), I have no idea how you get your fingers strong enough to start pulling on them!

I finally put my 6mm's up the other day after having them for a good 2 years, and found them hard. I could just about squeeze 8 or 9 seconds out on my first good hang, but after that my skin starts to deteriorate quickly and I lose about a second every hang after (even with skin trimming  :sick:). I finally had a look from side on the other day, and because my beam is slightly concave, and having put them on the bottom, they are actually 8-9 degrees sloping :slap: no wonder they feel brutal (not intended as a humblebrag).

All that training and i still cant pull on shadowplay Doylo, Neither can aidan. with the G in front there are no limits, bit like chasing a spectre through walls.

This makes me wonder what Blackpool Sam could pull, since he has (a few years back anyway) pulled off the deck on Shadowplay, and even did a move AFAIK. Big lad too, possible record contender? Don't know how much he is climbing nowdays though.

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#34 Re: Naturally strong?
November 27, 2019, 11:46:52 am
I believe you meant convex, otherwise the bottom of your concave would be 8-9 degrees incut.

AMorris

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#35 Re: Naturally strong?
November 27, 2019, 11:49:21 am
I believe you meant convex, otherwise the bottom of your concave would be 8-9 degrees incut.

right you are! Concave would have pleased me a little more I think

dunnyg

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#36 Re: Naturally strong?
November 27, 2019, 11:49:59 am
Quote
We don't want to end up with another "dunnyg does 1-4-7" or "Footwork does rep after rep of 45 slopers pull ups" scenario.

I still havent taken a tape measure to the lab and they didn't respond to my email...

I didn't have any problems with pain, it was just physically couldn't hold them. I am a chubber to be fair, but still, I expected a good second or so!
Quote
. I could just about squeeze 8 or 9 seconds out on my first good hang,
I can't imagine doing this. Were you open handing/chiselling etc.?

Maybe my fingers are just relatively weak and it has been my flawless technique that has seen me so far in my bouldering. ...

AMorris

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#37 Re: Naturally strong?
November 27, 2019, 12:14:28 pm
I can't imagine doing this. Were you open handing/chiselling etc.?

Maybe my fingers are just relatively weak and it has been my flawless technique that has seen me so far in my bouldering. ...

I have to engage my thumb on the side, or full crimp a bit (both feel about the same) to hold the very slight swing out pulling on as a result of the slope on them. This something I hope to iron out over time, as it's not ideal! Plenty of room for improvement in that regard.

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#38 Re: Naturally strong?
November 27, 2019, 12:30:18 pm
I can't imagine doing this. Were you open handing/chiselling etc.?

no matter how I initiate the hang on the 6's, my fingers always end up boned af (thumbs well clear of anything). Although I prefer open handing stuff, I don't think I could get any real purchase doing it on the 6's. Could be a pulp thing.

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#39 Re: Naturally strong?
November 27, 2019, 12:41:17 pm
I have to engage my thumb on the side,
:spank:

tomtom

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#40 Re: Naturally strong?
November 27, 2019, 01:03:55 pm
Going back to the OP, can we have this Beastmaker's calibration checked for depth of hold and verticality of installation? We don't want to end up with another "dunnyg does 1-4-7" or "Footwork does rep after rep of 45 slopers pull ups" scenario.

** captain downgrade alert **

:D

James Malloch

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#41 Re: Naturally strong?
November 27, 2019, 06:54:23 pm
Quote
We don't want to end up with another "dunnyg does 1-4-7" or "Footwork does rep after rep of 45 slopers pull ups" scenario.

I still havent taken a tape measure to the lab and they didn't respond to my email...


I’m heading there now. Will report back  ;)

Will Hunt

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#42 Re: Naturally strong?
November 27, 2019, 08:54:46 pm
 :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn:

dunnyg

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#43 Re: Naturally strong?
November 27, 2019, 09:11:14 pm
Like waiting for an STI test this.The tension!

James Malloch

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#44 Re: Naturally strong?
November 27, 2019, 09:42:01 pm
Like waiting for an STI test this.The tension!

Spacing was between 21cm and 21.5cm, so less than standard... it was somewhere in the middle but hard to be exact.

James Malloch

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#45 Re: Naturally strong?
November 28, 2019, 09:14:14 am
Quote
Spacing was between 21cm and 21.5cm, so less than standard... it was somewhere in the middle but hard to be exact.

Both me and my idol cut down in a thread. The truth hurts.

Interesting to hear that all the G stuff set out so clearly though.

dunnyg logs practically everything as a flash, dunnyg also idolises the G. It's all making sense now.

Not sure what the standard sizes are too but I think the Lab rungs are pretty big - they use the Metolious Wood Grips.

Large = 32mm
Medium = 25mm (though they have these on upside down so less incut?  :rtfm:
Small = 19mm

Moon rungs on the other hand are:

Large = 29mm
Medium = 23mm
Small = 18mm

The circuit board there is a pile of shit too - my knees were pretty much touching my face yesterday, it is so bunched up. I generally hate the upstairs of the lab (sorry to the owners) - It’s a decent space and could have been so much better...

Don’t get me started on people not knowing what a brush is there either. Anyway, I digress from talking about strong people.

gme

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#46 Re: Naturally strong?
November 28, 2019, 11:40:10 am
I know nothing about these problems and have not even seen them, but i climbed a lot with the strongest climbers in the UK at the time (Malc, Ben etc.) and saw John climb a fair bit outside, at the school and other Sheffield boards and he was undoubtedly very strong, probably as strong or a bit stronger than Malc on small holds. He also came over as a nice quiet honest lad which is why i have always sided with him if discussed.

However based on what i have seen at the school, and read about in the media, the new crop of lads are in a different league of strength, and i mean a different league. If they really have been and tried these things and cant do the moves the problems have either changed or didn't exist in the first place.

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#47 Re: Naturally strong?
November 28, 2019, 01:31:53 pm
Went there on Saturday, definitely felt like baby spacing.

Quote
We don't want to end up with another "dunnyg does 1-4-7" or "Footwork does rep after rep of 45 slopers pull ups" scenario.

I still havent taken a tape measure to the lab and they didn't respond to my email...


I’m heading there now. Will report back  ;)

dunnyg

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#48 Re: Naturally strong?
November 28, 2019, 03:18:52 pm
I didnt mind the circuit board at the lab. Generally set a bit cruxy, but dimensions were ok for me.
It is a shame the campus board is nonstandard though. Maybe its time to come to terms with being naturally a punter

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#49 Re: Naturally strong?
November 29, 2019, 08:24:53 am
Quote
Spacing was between 21cm and 21.5cm, so less than standard... it was somewhere in the middle but hard to be exact.

Both me and my idol cut down in a thread. The truth hurts.

Interesting to hear that all the G stuff set out so clearly though.

dunnyg logs practically everything as a flash, dunnyg also idolises the G. It's all making sense now.

Not sure what the standard sizes are too but I think the Lab rungs are pretty big - they use the Metolious Wood Grips.

Large = 32mm
Medium = 25mm (though they have these on upside down so less incut?  :rtfm:
Small = 19mm

Moon rungs on the other hand are:

Large = 29mm
Medium = 23mm
Small = 18mm

The circuit board there is a pile of shit too - my knees were pretty much touching my face yesterday, it is so bunched up. I generally hate the upstairs of the lab (sorry to the owners) - It’s a decent space and could have been so much better...

Don’t get me started on people not knowing what a brush is there either. Anyway, I digress from talking about strong people.

OT

I’d have to go digging for the paperwork, but the Metolious instructions/standard are 200mm spacing to the School room 220. So as you travel around the world, you need check if it’s a Metolious board or a “Moon” board.
Most UK boards are School room standard, I guess. I’ve built a few (well, four).
Anyone know the story behind the difference?

If I guess,I’m sure Ben will be along to slap me down..

I reckon, when they put up the Schoolroom board, they made a 200mm spacer. They put up the lowest rung and then rested the next rung on the spacer to fix it, instead of drawing a line and putting the top edge of the next rung on the line.
And thus, a new standard was born.

Possibly the rest of the world knows why they’re different and I’ve missed something.

Edit:
I’d forgotten Metolius use different spacing for different sized rungs:
« Last Edit: November 29, 2019, 08:53:50 am by Oldmanmatt »

 

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