[Fiend]

[Will Hunt]

You've fucked this right up. Where's the pain au chocolat/I don't give a fuck option? Never was there a poll more in need of it.

[Fiend]

This is not some frivolous mockery requiring spoof options and other such nonsense. This is a serious debate affecting the future of climbing in Yorkshire, and therefore the world 

[andy popp]

I know what I think.

[tomtom]

😃

[tim palmer]

I have more faith in his downgrades than his assertion that he has performed the most poised and efficient ascent of red baron roof of all time

[Will Hunt]

I have more faith in his downgrades than his assertion that he has performed the most poised and efficient ascent of red baron roof of all time of any video that I've seen of it

Ftfy, Tim.

[webbo]

Maybe you should do a video series of classic problems, say from 6B to 7C showing that If you follow the Will method. They are all actually piss easy.
I reckon it would be best seller, you could become the next Neil Gresham.

[Mr E S Capegoat]

Will’s downgrading [will] hopefully bring Yorkshire inline with the rest of the country. Well done Will 👍🏻

[tim palmer]

Maybe you should do a video series of classic problems, say from 6B to 7C showing that If you follow the Will method. They are all actually piss easy.
I reckon it would be best seller, you could become the next Neil Gresham.

A fate worse than death!

[teestub]

I have more faith in his downgrades than his assertion that he has performed the most poised and efficient ascent of red baron roof of all time of any video that I've seen of it

Ftfy, Tim.

Was your ascent filmed Will so we can compare and contrast?

I appreciate that you take the time to comment on grades, and most of the time I am unsurprised at what you find easy. I’m sure this winter you’ll blow my mind by doing ZY in a session and calling it no more than 7b+ when climbed perfectly 

[Will Hunt]

I have more faith in his downgrades than his assertion that he has performed the most poised and efficient ascent of red baron roof of all time of any video that I've seen of it

Ftfy, Tim.

Was your ascent filmed Will so we can compare and contrast?

No film to look at. What I mean (sorry this is boring but you did ask) is that everybody who's put a video online does it with a cut loose (often more than one), and the bit where they're moving their hand up the arete is more laboured than it needs to be. I can do all that stuff in shorter links, but putting it all together like that made the end bit very hard as I was getting gassed. So when I did it I didn't cut loose (as in Bradders' viddy), but also figured out that instead of patting up the arete bit by bit, it was much easier to crimp the little nipples which are low on the RHS and do one explosive pull to plant the right hand high on the arete where it's quite decent. That leaves you with more in the tank to do the final scrunching of the feet onto the lip (harder for the tall!  ) and the arete match.

[andy_e]

Remind me to ask you for your autograph next time I see you.

[Will Hunt]

Is their room for it on your chalk bag next to Neil Gresham's signature?

[Bradders]

So when I did it I didn't cut loose (as in Bradders' viddy)

If you say so   

[Will Hunt]

So when I did it I didn't cut loose (as in Bradders' viddy)

If you say so   

What I mean is that you do it without the cut loose. If you look at Stubbs and Callum C then they cut loose loads which obviously makes it loads harder. But they still did it cos they're beasts.

This thread should really be locked and logged now. Utter shite. Fiend even admitted as much in a FB messenger chat.

[Fiend]

Did you downgrade RBR though??

[Bradders]

Ah, my mistake.

[teestub]

No film to look at.

Hang on, where you also spotted by a Spaniard who had cycled there from Sheffield?

[SA Chris]

It was very early.

[Rob F]

Bit confused but think that what Will's trying to say is no cut loose 7b+, 1 cut loose 7c, 2 or more cut looses 8a?????

[Bradders]

Big grades for bad beta, what's not to love? 

[saltbeef]

Big grades for bad beta, what's not to love? 

Excellent idea!

[tomtom]

Bit confused but think that what Will's trying to say is no cut loose 7b+, 1 cut loose 7c, 2 or more cut looses 8a?????

I think Will wanted to give a downgrade but has backed out at the last min -with some spurious feet on / cut loose shenanigans.

Maybe we could have a crouch start mid way along the roof grade too? 😃

[Fiend]

This thread should really be locked and logged now. Utter shite. Fiend even admitted as much in a FB messenger chat.

I've changed my mind. It's quite clearly a lot more pertinent than I thought.