[Rob F]

Will's gone rather quiet on this pertinent matter. Is the dab potential for the taller climber on a crouch start significantly different to a smaller climber cutting loose twice on the lip slopers???

[tomtom]

Will's gone rather quiet on this pertinent matter. Is the dab potential for the taller climber on a crouch start significantly different to a smaller climber cutting loose twice on the lip slopers???

Good point. If there’s no video how can we run snicko or UltraDab (tm)

[Rob F]

Unfortunately no send video but I did see Will on an early session where he was just doing 6 move links. Like he says, his technique was exemplary, way way in excess of any utube clip in existence.


It was however a headtorch session so was rather dark...

[teestub]

Maybe it’s for the best that this display of climbing perfection was not captured on video. It must be such utter perfection that the very sight of it would make us all give up immediately and take up a new hobby.

[tomtom]

Maybe it’s for the best that this display of climbing perfection was not captured on video. It must be such utter perfection that the very sight of it would make us all give up immediately and take up road cycling

You all know who you are... 😃

[Fiend]

Will's gone rather quiet on this pertinent matter.

It seems his debatative determination in the December 2019 GE thread has addled his mind and he's now living out the fantasy of being an actual politician in response to this thread: Dodging questions, obfuscating issues with tangents about toehooks, shooting the messenger, dismissing the whole thing when it threatens his party stance.

I vote that you lot impeach him and get a new Random Downgrade Generator.

[Fiend]

Okay this is well worth a bump. From the man himself:

Downgrades

Now we're talking. The mightiest numbers that toppled before my puny limbs.

Titfield Thunderbolt. 7B+ to 7A.
Colt 45. 7C to soft 7A.
Big Fish. 7B (given 7C in some places I think!) to 6C+.
The Groove (Caley). 7A to 6B+.
Losing My Edge. 7C to 7A+ (TBF you do need a bit of lank)

[Rob F]

Anyone got a copy of the Steve Rhodes guide to hand? I'm sure the Groove got something like 8a / v11 in that one. This could well be a contender for the world's biggest downgrade...

[36chambers]

Downgrades

Now we're talking. The mightiest numbers that toppled before my puny limbs.

Titfield Thunderbolt. 7B+ to 7A. (TBF you do need a bit of lank)
Colt 45. 7C to soft 7A. (TBF you do need a bit of lank... relative to Katz...)
Big Fish. 7B (given 7C in some places I think!) to 6C+. (TBF you do need a bit of lank)
The Groove (Caley). 7A to 6B+. (TBF you do need a bit of lank)
Losing My Edge. 7C to 7A+ (TBF you do need a bit of lank)

[Will Hunt]

If I'm reading the Rhodes book right then I think you're correct! English 7b/V12 

It also gives the 6C just to the right (Pocket Wall) English 6c and V10!

If you look on UKC you'll see that there's someone who has proposed 6B for it...
Compare it with the Rocking Groove thing at the same crag. Loads easier...

But evidence schmevidence when it comes to logbook padding, eh?

[teestub]

Will is just giving his opinion of the climbs he’s found easy being lanky and weak, I don’t think there’s anything wrong with this. I look forward to his personal grade for something like Digital Dilerium at Eavestone, which involved me getting my knee level with my chin 

[tomtom]

Ned even named a problem for you Will! 😃

http://peakbouldering.info/areas/1-eastern-grit/crags/3-baslow/boulders/49-flatworld/problems/6345-6ft-7a

[Fiend]

Big Fish gets 7C+ from a sitter and 6C from a stand in the book 

[Bradders]

The Big Fish thing is due to an error in the guide; they got the grades of that and I Am Chief Whateverhisnameis the wrong way round.

[turnipturned]

Downgrades

Now we're talking. The mightiest numbers that toppled before my puny limbs.

Titfield Thunderbolt. 7B+ to 7A. (TBF you do need a bit of lank)
Colt 45. 7C to soft 7A. (TBF you do need a bit of lank... relative to Katz...)
Big Fish. 7B (given 7C in some places I think!) to 6C+. (TBF you do need a bit of lank)
The Groove (Caley). 7A to 6B+. (TBF you do need a bit of lank)
Losing My Edge. 7C to 7A+ (TBF you do need a bit of lank)

I am remember Turnbull finding losing my edge hard and he is a lanky streak of.

When I did losing my edge I thought it was 7B/C but gave it 7C to get people interested to try it.

[Fiend]

When I did losing my edge I thought it was 7B/C but gave it 7C to get people interested to try it.

  Surely more people would try it at 7B or 7B+??

[Bradders]

There's also new beta for Losing My Edge, whereby you match the left start jug then go up to two edges on the face before heading across to the big flake thing.

Having done it both ways I reckon 7B+/C is fair for the original (which is a tough few slaps and an absolute skin shredder) and 7A+ for the new beta (which is actually a bit more pleasant climbing).

[tomtom]

Speaking to a guidebook editor - they said they tended to err on the side of Upgrading problems if in doubt.

Makes people happier about a book/area if they get a little flatter to the edge. Conversely people get pissed off of stuff in the guide is always a sandbag. Of course there are always exceptions - and this wouldn’t wash in certain areas - esp where problems have had many repeats.

[teestub]

What guidebook area? Looking to plan my hols for this year 

[tim palmer]

When I did losing my edge I thought it was 7B/C but gave it 7C to get people interested to try it.

  Surely more people would try it at 7B or 7B+??

I think Dan is right,  areas are always popular when there is the smell of slightly over-graded boulder problem blood in the water

[tomtom]

What guidebook area? Looking to plan my hols for this year 

Leavenworth 😂

[Bradders]

I think Dan is right,  areas are always popular when there is the smell of slightly over-graded boulder problem blood in the water

Brimham in general init; loads of average problems, on average rock, at holiday grades.

[turnipturned]

I think Dan is right,  areas are always popular when there is the smell of slightly over-graded boulder problem blood in the water

Brimham in general init; loads of average problems, on average rock, at holiday grades.

What you trying to say Nick. LME would stand proud next to karma!

[Bradders]

It's better than Ripple Effect at least

[Bonjoy]

Grades are supposed to be assigned for a notional climber of average stature. Anyone falling significantly either side of this average should expect most grades to be inconsistent, with a fair number feeling just plain wrong. This is the reason these opinions are predictably low value unless the climber has a very thorough understanding of grade mechanics and an unearthly ability to visualise the climbing experience of an average climber probably using a different sequence. How many times must this point be made before outsized climbers stop expressing their opinions as if they carried some weight?