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Bavella, Corisca (Read 3350 times)

Paul B

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Bavella, Corisca
November 10, 2019, 05:32:49 pm
I'm imagining someone from this parish has visited Bavella? I'd be grateful of any advice going on the best way (and when) to get there from the UK (Spring / Autumn look to be the time).

With respect to guidebooks, there look to be two options:
http://www.climb-europe.com/rockclimbingshop/Bavella-Rock-Climbing-Guidebook.html
http://www.climb-europe.com/rockclimbingshop/Corsica-Traditional-Multi-pitch-Climbing-Guidebook.html

My French isn't wonderful and the approaches seem to have a bit of a reputation ("Petit carries hedge trimmers on his pack"; https://www.climbing.com/news/adventure-climbing-in-corsica/).  but it's unlikely we'd do anything other than multipitch stuff which makes me lean towards the top link.

As ever, thanks in advance...  :tumble:

(I'm aware there's some general advice floating around on the web but I trust UKBers more than American articles when it comes to climbing on granite in any kind of heat).

jwi

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#1 Re: Bavella, Corisca
November 10, 2019, 06:26:27 pm
Alas, we have not been even if we talk about it every year. That article in Climbing was stupid, worse than no info I'd say.

I usually find the comments on camp-to-camp to be trustworthy. If some random post says 'expo' it is probably dangerous and if it says 'engage' likely scary but not dangerous.

https://www.camptocamp.org/routes?w=415017

Fiend

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#2 Re: Bavella, Corisca
November 10, 2019, 06:41:17 pm
Went in October, it was mint. Quite a beautiful island. Very windy roads inland including up to the Col. Only did single pitch which was pretty nice. They do a lot of things with hazelnuts IIRC including cured pork from hazelnut-fed pigs, and beer infused with hazelnuts.

Paul B

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#3 Re: Bavella, Corisca
November 11, 2019, 11:05:26 am
Thanks both (less to Fiend). I'm a little worried that getting the French guide, with notoriously difficult approaches, is just setting myself up for getting lost a lot  :worms:.

It seems you can fly (:worms:) with a few changes for £££
or
Fly (:worms:) to the south of France and get an overnight ferry for ££

ghisino

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#4 Re: Bavella, Corisca
November 11, 2019, 02:54:06 pm
some walk in advice.

the problem with bavella and corsica in general is not that the geography is overly complex. It's not like the dolomites or wadi rum.

the real issues are:

1)Vegetation. It tends to grow really quickly, expect a few places where the path seems to disappear.
2)Wildlife. Expect several fake trails.

Of course an accurate guidebook description can be useful but being efficient is more a matter of understanding the terrain and developing a good sense for things like:
-the difference between a man made path VS animal trail
-when a trail is just overgrown for 20 meters VS when you've totally lost it.
-when you'd better get in "wild boar mode" and just make your way through the bushes, VS when to be more analytical.

Paul B

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#5 Re: Bavella, Corisca
November 11, 2019, 03:04:05 pm
Interesting as this describes Madagascar well. Paths used by animals and locals are well worn, as is the tourist path to the summit of  Tsaranoro Kely but as there aren't many climbers, and the grass grows fast and tall, it's difficult to find approaches to various routes (esp. if less traveled).

(...I'll pack some trimmers too :devangel:)

alpinebisou

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#6 Re: Bavella, Corisca
November 12, 2019, 01:24:16 pm
Been twice in June and it was a little on the hot side, but fine for the higher altitude areas. Spring/Autumn probably more ideal, as you have more options. Used the Grande Voies guidebook and found it ok. Only had one approach epic in about 10-12 routes. Normally, it was fine, especially for the more popular ones. Climbed at Bavella, Restonica and Paglia Orba mainly. I found Restonica a bit nicer climbing and camping than Bavella, but we didn't climb Jeef and had sub-optimal weather while there, so maybe didn't see the best of it. Awesome place in general. Can't comment on the other book, but maybe it makes more sense if you are definitely only climbing in Bavella. Can probably supplement with camp to camp for trickier approaches. The ferry works fine, but maybe not worthwhile if you are flying anyway, and it's quite a drive from the North. Probably easier to fly to Ajaccio. If you are keen on the ferry and don't want a cabin, you can take sleeping mat/bag and sleep on the deck outside. Unless it's raining, then probably it's a bit grim. Make sure to do some river swimming and eat some pig, if that's your thing.

SamT

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#7 Re: Bavella, Corisca
November 12, 2019, 02:07:06 pm
Unless you're on some Carbon reduction mission, flights direct from Manchester to Ajaccio  or Bastia I'd say.

Paul B

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#8 Re: Bavella, Corisca
November 12, 2019, 02:45:23 pm
Unless you're on some Carbon reduction mission, flights direct from Manchester to Ajaccio  or Bastia I'd say.

I hadn't managed to find direct flights as of yet (one change, changing airport in Paris was the best I'd found).

Been twice in June and it was a little on the hot side, but fine for the higher altitude areas. Spring/Autumn probably more ideal, as you have more options. Used the Grande Voies guidebook and found it ok. Only had one approach epic in about 10-12 routes. Normally, it was fine, especially for the more popular ones. Climbed at Bavella, Restonica and Paglia Orba mainly. I found Restonica a bit nicer climbing and camping than Bavella, but we didn't climb Jeef and had sub-optimal weather while there, so maybe didn't see the best of it. Awesome place in general. Can't comment on the other book, but maybe it makes more sense if you are definitely only climbing in Bavella. Can probably supplement with camp to camp for trickier approaches. The ferry works fine, but maybe not worthwhile if you are flying anyway, and it's quite a drive from the North. Probably easier to fly to Ajaccio. If you are keen on the ferry and don't want a cabin, you can take sleeping mat/bag and sleep on the deck outside. Unless it's raining, then probably it's a bit grim. Make sure to do some river swimming and eat some pig, if that's your thing.

 :great:

I think I can get on board with some pig-eating.

SamT

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#9 Re: Bavella, Corisca
November 12, 2019, 03:24:24 pm
Interesting, maybe its cause its out of season.

We honeymooned there in May, in 2005 and the only flights were by Air France and you had to change from CDG in North Paris to Orly on the south side, which seemed like a pain, but in reality, not that bad, direct coach transfer between the two air ports which took less than an hour I think.

I think the French are quite protective of Corsica, thus the possible reason for the general lack of flights.

Went two years ago in August with the kids and there were direct flights to Ajaccio and Bastia.

The drive down the East coast is not that bad as its a relatively fast, straight road.  Anything east west, or down the west side is pretty tortuous.


petejh

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#10 Re: Bavella, Corisca
November 12, 2019, 04:10:56 pm
I'm friends with a French guy who did some new-routing with us on Arran. He works on Corsica as a canyon guide and is busy developing amazing-looking new crags there (and everywhere it seems!) with a strong team. PM me if you want his contact details.

Paul B

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#11 Re: Bavella, Corisca
November 14, 2019, 10:17:46 am
Cheers Pete:

Quote
Corsica and Bavella more especially works the whole year, best period is from march to june and from september to november.  winter could be nice for south facing multi pitches. for sports climbing everything is in the guidebook  Falaise de Corse. For multipitch in Bavella theres a proper guidebook for this area, or a selection in Grande voies  de Corse

you can find all the new sectors which are not already in the sector here

Falaise de Corse has all the sport climbing in the island. Grandes voies de Corse is a selection of multipiches (traduction in english as well). Bavella proper guidebook is only in french you can find on this one most of the multi pitches of Bavella only and some of the sport climbing of Bavella

To go there o by boat from Toulon Marseille or from Savonna with Corsica ferries most of the time is the cheapest company or by flight with Aircorsica. To go to Bavella the closest airport or harbor is Bastia!

petejh

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#12 Re: Bavella, Corisca
November 14, 2019, 04:44:58 pm
 :thumbsup:

 

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