[tomtom]

Shit weather affected plans to go outside (as per most people I suspect...)

M: Manchester Depot. On the 50 - did some new things - tried lots. Sticking to my 3 min rests 3 max attempts rule.

Tu: Mad Vol, Hull. On the 35. Hard session - still feeling it from the day before but did some different things. Only one top out....

Thu: Bloody weather... Back to the Manc Depot. On the 50.

Fri: Earned some parent credits and went off to Helsby top tier 3-4pm to work the 7B+... Not great conditions (one hold wet) so couldn’t do the one move I couldn’t do... but worked the rest of it so getting slick at the other sections... GREAT to be out and touch rock...

Sun: Gibb Tor with Nai and Plattsy. Nai wanted to do Stall - Plattsy cruised up it after a couple of warm ups, took me a while to re-figure out what to do then sent it with a very shaky seat of the pants ascent. Excellent (I’d done it before - but its a great problem). For me it was all about clamping feet on the first move rather than trying to lay away the RF. Funny problem - doesn’t climb like an arête problem in many ways. Nai got cross with Stall. Then moved to the Fin. The FFS-Fin. Can’t do it - just cant hold the RH slopes/LH arête and get a right foot up. Plattsy had a neat RH up to the arête then share move to do the start which I’ll use more in the future. Typically, I think I did all the moves for the 7B SS but can’t do the upper/middle bit... Nai did well... depositing lots of scrittle in the process.

Good week.. 5 sessions.... not done that for a while.
C’mon JB is it Grit Calling yet? The MAMMILs were out in force on the roads which must be another sign... :D

[Will Hunt]

Tuesday - Depot bouldering

Sunday - Lords Seat. Enjoyable session of pottering. Did a few new things. A 7A groove near McNab, Pure Gold (why haven't I done that before. Princely jams), and repeated McNab. Went for a look at Dino-mania later but unfortunately it was getting late and we were hitting dew point. Good crimps felt wet which killed off the commitment. Definitely want to go back though.
On the way down we stopped at Dalehead and people did the slabs there (unmissable). There was a short unclimbed arete further along the boulders which I nipped along to and did at about 6B.

[SA Chris]

M - now still ill
T - nowt just about better
W - wall session. Climbed OK, mostly on the 45 deg board, feeling heavy though and heartbeat through the roof any time I pull on something hard means cold is still lingering. Shoulder tightening up again.
T - med paced 6 km run at lunch, actually felt OK.
F - massage on shoulder - pain like nothing else.
S - Glen Clova Half Marathon - leisurely midday start for a change, got there in good time, air temp single figures and stiff breeze meant proper clothes dither. First half I managed a good pace consistent pace making up for uphills on the downs. On the return leg it was in full sun, and continuously undulating road made it hard to maintain a higher pace. Finish 1:40:50, second fastest half, in spite of not doing much for nearly 2 weeks, illness and probably carrying an extra half stone. Started tipping down about 2 pm, felt sorry for late finishers, sleety rain by yhe time we were having a coffee by the fireplace.
S- not much. Late walk with kids.

[nai]

STG: Moonboard 7A, Font 7C
Spring 2020 Lime Font 7C.

M -
Few wall routes up 7a
Campus medium rungs 1-3-5 leading right but only 1-2-4 or 1-3-4 leading left.  That dodgy left shoulder I keep meaning to have worked on....

TW nothing of note

Th - Moonboard.  So, nothing of note, I guess.
Some HI core

Fr - rest ahead of a rare weekend to myself. Checked the weather a lot.

S - Slipstones. Managed Sulky Little Boys but shutdown on all other 7s I tried, did some nice easier problems.

S Gib Torr with Tom and Plattsy. Better connies, wind on crag. Did The Fin but not Stall. Headed to Newstones and did a few nice 5s and 6s.

[andy_e]

Ah, so that was you at Slipstones! 

[galpinos]

shit chest is still very much playing up so no cycling to work for me. Littlest off with chest infection too so home life all over the place

M –
T – Bouldering at the Depot - 30degree board and "problems". Anothereally good session, feeling stronger on the small holds but also moving better/using feet
W –
T –
F –
S –
S – Morning: Burbage West with Sam. Wasn't feeling in tip top form (massive coughing fits between attempts) but got shut down on Famous Grouse. Am stuck between being neither strong enough nor flexible enough. Sam did well and was lovely to be out.
Evening: AeroCap @ -36kg, Max Hangs @ +26kg (Famous Grouse has blown my left bicep but felt pretty non-fingery so went hunting for those sweet sweet finger gainz.....)

Expecting another poor week as ill child, shit chest and London for work. Hope it's dry at the weekend I can can breathe again.

[SA Chris]

Ah, so that was you at Slipstones! 

No Torridon derring dos update?

[cheque]

No climbing or training this week, had a cool holiday in Iceland and got a new guitar so have had a break from thinking about how well my body works for the first time since my accident.

It's occurred to me that the sessions of bike-based cardio fitness have pretty much given me the last push back up to a normal level of lung function- I don't get out of breath doing normal stuff any more and I'm sleeping normally again too. Exciting as I plan to carry on the bike sessions over the winter so will hopefully reach the spring fitter in that repect than ever.

Realistically the rock climbing season is over for me now so I'm going to focus on training and shooting for my bouldering film (and playing the guitar!) for the next 3-4 months.

[andy_e]

Ah, so that was you at Slipstones! 

No Torridon derring dos update?

Usual flailing on Malc's before giving up and actually doing something fun, namely the myriad lower-grade problems which are incredible. All under blue skies and snowy peaks.

[nai]

Ah, so that was you at Slipstones! 

Aha, was that you there when I arrived or got there later?

[andy_e]

Thankfully I am not the one who was already there, I arrived later with Tom.

[yetix]

M: Sub Maximal Hangs upto +25kg 6x10s for 10s
T: Rest
W: Board session, got no closer on anything new, but repeated a few harder things including a crimpy one I've been avoiding since hurting my finger earlier in the year.
T: Frenchies and IYT's on the rings
F: rest
S: quick hit at Kentmere, warmed up and sent Weasel Power second go. Managed to split a tip in the process which was an odd split. Like a razor blade had punctured it vertically.
S: Went to Langstrath. Shieldmaiden stand felt impossible for me in tape. Bashed my head against Tune a Fish, not sure what happened but kept falling off. Not a great session and ruined skin on my other hand in the process. Nice day out with a good crew though.

Average week really. Need to sort my skin out as I've been to many skin unfriendly venues in the last month and its definitely taking its toll. I'm in reasonable shape at the moment, just need to maintain it, get decent skin and hope a decent weather window comes along.

[nai]

Thankfully I am not the one who was already there, I arrived later with Tom.

  did Tom get Cypher?

[AMorris]

Dunno about the peak, but North Wales was feeling superb yesterday. It was pretty bitter with wind up by Wavelength.

M Reset the wall the preceeding days, so plenty of new hardies to go at. Got very close to one of them, but the hard hard still feels desperate. People seemed generally enthusiastic about the new problems, which is always nice to hear when you bust your arse over 3 days stripping and resetting for free!

Thurs Bit of a weak day which made me realise I need to get back on the BM and get my fingers back to where they were a couple of months back.

Sun Up to the Pass to make the most out of the superb cons. Warmed up on the roadside and did Rampless (7B or more like Fr7c+ ish?) which felt a lot better than I thought it would. Decided to go and see if anyone had taken a shit under Ultimate Retro Party (7B), which to my surprise no one had! Got on it and found myself at the top pretty quickly after some very satisfying movement. Usually I dislike lip traverses, but the moves on URP were superb. James looked strong on it, which means I suspect we will be back and I will end up trying Crouching Foothold or something else grim 

Decided to trek up to Wavelength for Cos to try something on Pie Shop and James to finish off the sitter to the mega classic, King of Drunks. Had a play on Plinth Eyed (7B) which I should have flashed but the top out was slippery and mossy, so I slithered off. After Attacking it with a brush and chalk I topped it out in a suitably Cetacean style. James had a play on this and looked strong, but again no cigar. I tried Pie Eyed after this, but if anyone can tell me how on earth you do the first move of this I would be much obliged, it felt perplexing!

Up to Wavelength, where James looked superb on KoD sitter, getting to the big move a number of times but not quite finding the blind hold. I decided to have a play on Wavelength (7B+), where I managed to gain the slopey lip pretty quickly, but made a wrong move and slithered off the slickness. Frustrating! Absolutely immaculate problem though, and it would have been a bonus so I decided not to spend too much energy and spot James on KoD again.

For the finale, I promised myself I would see if I could hold the positions on the unrepeated Danny Cattell savagery of Wedgie Wall (8A+? 8B? who knows). To my amazement, it felt very much my style, and a lot like some of the stuff I set at my local wall. I managed to get my fingers over the edges on both the moves, and got very close to sticking the first. The second move is a bit of a monster, and will take a step up in strength to stick, but it gives me something to train for. Very much a pipedream and beyond my paygrade at the moment, but I could definitely see it going.

All in all, great day out in some lovely conditions. Would have been a perfect day if I had topped out Wavelength, but I shouldn't ask for too much.

[andy_e]

did Tom get Cypher?

Outrageously close. Held the Ninja flick, then blew it going for the next pocket.

[gollum]

M - Visit with friends to Manchester Depot. Bit of volume, cracking on through the reds. Manage to flash all but two; one a technical mantle arête type thing that takes a few goes and a pocketed overhanging wall which I have a couple of goes at before a brew and then get first go when a bit more rested, before I do it a second time with a different sequence that bypasses all the hard moves. Finish off with a footless play on the 50 board which feels pully but is on massive positive holds.
Go out for a steady run with Mrs B but about a third of the way we both feel strong so end up running a lot quicker than I have run in quite a long time. Highly entertaining.

T - Pull day. Rack pulls up to 170 for doubles which leaves me distinctly light headed but feels strong. Then weighted pull ups for five reps starting at plus 5 and ending at 25. Move on to prone row and straight arm pull downs and finish with kneeling cable rows. A good start to the day.
Trip to Sheffield Depot to train. Start off with some scapular work which is definitely improving. Then go onto campus work, slowly, slowly working my way through progressions. Slow progress is still progress and I may not be hitting my benchmarks but feel much more in control.
Move on to some finger training. Single arm, small edge stuff with a counterweight. On the 10mm edge I manage 10 seconds on each arm with an 8k counterweight and 8 seconds with 6k. On the 8mm edge I get 10seconds with minus 10 and 5 with minus 8. I don’t bother trying the 6mm edge.......one for the future. Think I am pretty happy with that, even if my system uses a thing sling and so friction will be playing a bigger role than if I could be bothered to get my rope and pulled out of the car.
Half an hour working on the harder circuits and the rule of three has become the rule of two, whereby I can’t actually do any of the circuits in a single go, just two halves, although I have never been much of a route climber so happy enough to be able to do all the moves on the circuits.
Finish off with some core work, which feels tough.

W - A great day out. Ran the course of White Rose Ultra which is a hilly 50k just down the road from me. Had a great first half, stopped in Marsden for a butty and a brew and then had a dreadful second half, throwing up and shuffling. Really pleased to have done it and felt like I had earned my fish, chips and wine afterwards. Some days are special and this was one of them.

T - A steady day. Go to Leeds Depot late on in the afternoon, still feeling a bit battered from yesterday and not wanting to do too much. A good session with friends working on and ticking a couple more of the purples, which is good for me, as generally if I can’t do something in a couple of tries I wander off to something new, so sticking with something is good. Work on a couple of the yellows too and finish doing bits of circuits. A good tick over type session.

F - Rest day and sports massage to try to loosen up my legs and back which hurts like hell but seems to work.

S - Afternoon trip to Leeds Depot. A good afternoon. Do a couple of purples that I’ve been working on and a couple of others that just hadn’t got round to tryouts by and fall and ff the top move of a long roof problem........another day. Then start to get stuck into complete problems with the odd tactic of starting in the mid-twenties and then working down which is fun. Overall think I’ve ended up doing quite a lot of volume and quite a lot of problems that are hard for me.

S - Over visiting family in Liverpool, so Mrs B and I  take advantage of being on a flat place and go out for a steady chit chat type run with no hills to struggle up.

Another solid enough week with a lot of emphasis on just having a fun time.

[nai]

did Tom get Cypher?

Outrageously close. Held the Ninja flick, then blew it going for the next pocket.

 

[Doylo]

For the finale, I promised myself I would see if I could hold the positions on the unrepeated Danny Cattell savagery of Wedgie Wall (8A+? 8B? who knows). To my amazement, it felt very much my style, and a lot like some of the stuff I set at my local wall. I managed to get my fingers over the edges on both the moves, and got very close to sticking the first. The second move is a bit of a monster, and will take a step up in strength to stick, but it gives me something to train for. Very much a pipedream and beyond my paygrade at the moment, but I could definitely see it going.

Tom Peckitt says harder than Amandla...

[SA Chris]

W - A great day out. Ran the course of White Rose Ultra which is a hilly 50k just down the road from me. Had a great first half, stopped in Marsden for a butty and a brew and then had a dreadful second half, throwing up and shuffling. Really pleased to have done it and felt like I had earned my fish, chips and wine afterwards. Some days are special and this was one of them.

Good work, aprt from the vomiting obviously. You got another lined up? I'm considering this; http://foxtrailscotland.co.uk/races/ultra/ be a beautiful one to run. Still want to do a 50km run before my 51st in April.

[Coops_13]

T: Hotel Gym. 10 mins bike, 10 mins elliptical, some stretches and L arm weights

T: Apartment Gym. 10 mins bike, 10 mins elliptical, squat up to 170lb (bad idea a couple of days before skiing - especially as I was using the smith machine set slightly too high so I've pulled my calves going on tip toes to rack back...)

S: At least you don't need calves to ski! Breckenridge skiing. 19 downhills with 23k descent, 26 miles, new PB max speed 46.9mph. Mostly blues and a black several times. Wiped out once and landed on bad wrist - seems mostly OK

S: Lots of walking exploring bits of Denver we hadn't seen before. Area round Union Station and later on Santa Fe Arts District

[AMorris]

For the finale, I promised myself I would see if I could hold the positions on the unrepeated Danny Cattell savagery of Wedgie Wall (8A+? 8B? who knows). To my amazement, it felt very much my style, and a lot like some of the stuff I set at my local wall. I managed to get my fingers over the edges on both the moves, and got very close to sticking the first. The second move is a bit of a monster, and will take a step up in strength to stick, but it gives me something to train for. Very much a pipedream and beyond my paygrade at the moment, but I could definitely see it going.

Tom Peckitt says harder than Amandla...

That's pretty terrifying! I have heard all kinds of horror stories about it, which is why I have not tried it until yesterday (something which has annoyed my friends). All I can say is I was getting my fingers in the decent edge off the second move. How close this is to sticking it I don't know, but jumping into it felt fine yesterday and the first move felt hard but reasonable (if very accurate and extremely thin).

No need to watch this space, otherwise you will be watching forever but I needed something to focus my training towards after Diesel Power went down more quickly than I expected, so if nothing else, it has given me a goal.

FYI, it was your video that made me want to try it, I probably account for a good 10% of the views 

[Doylo]

A lot of 8B/+ wads all shapes and sizes have tried it. From the super light like Eliot and Jack to Ned, Peckitt, Mason etc and consensus seems to be sick for the second move. First move has been done a bit. Pretty sure it’s regarded as 8B now.    Hardest move in North Wales maybe (if you don’t believe Gaskins  ).

[AMorris]

A lot of 8B/+ wads all shapes and sizes have tried it. From the super light like Eliot and Jack to Ned, Peckitt, Mason etc and consensus seems to be sick for the second move. First move has been done a bit. Pretty sure it’s regarded as 8B now.    Hardest move in North Wales maybe (if you don’t believe Gaskins  ).

I heard, imagine my surprise when this punter could move around a fair bit on the crux edge. I reckon getting a right toe on might work for the second move. I found a couple of candidates but I reckon ultimately it will just end up being the original dive off the left toe. I suspect I am going to find sticking the second move from the floor to be impossible, but if it gives me the opportunity to try hard on something I am pretty content.

I am a G-liever regarding the Pill Box prob has anyone been on it since Chris stopped trying?

[Doylo]

NAFAIK.

[gollum]

W - A great day out. Ran the course of White Rose Ultra which is a hilly 50k just down the road from me. Had a great first half, stopped in Marsden for a butty and a brew and then had a dreadful second half, throwing up and shuffling. Really pleased to have done it and felt like I had earned my fish, chips and wine afterwards. Some days are special and this was one of them.

Good work, aprt from the vomiting obviously. You got another lined up? I'm considering this; http://foxtrailscotland.co.uk/races/ultra/ be a beautiful one to run. Still want to do a 50km run before my 51st in April.

Cheers Chris.

Going to have a crack at the Abraham's Tea Round at the end of the month, which I think is about the same distance and then have a 50k canal run in January, followed by some other bits and bats working up to 50 miles at the end of March and ultimately a 24 hour event in July.

The Foxtrail looks awesome and I am sure you will nail it.

[SA Chris]

Never heard of the ATR, looks cool, good luck with the training.

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - deadlift x5 (45% 60 kg), pull ups x4, alternated EMOM sets x20. Good.
Tue - rest.
Wed - fingers, BM pockets x10. Strong. Clean and press, push ups in between. Then weights.
Thu -  20" on 14 mm edge x12. Front lever pulls x3 and feet to ceiling x3 in between. Farmer's 30/30 x10. Brilliant session.
Fri - rest.
Sat - deadlift 45% (60 kg) x5 x20 EMOM sets. Very satisfying.
Sun - squat 20x5; shoulder raises 30x5; iron cross pull down 10x5; bentover row, high pulls, clean and press complex - farmer's walk alternated x10.

[shark]

M Emerald Forest. Sunny. Not sure of the rationale for us going here as I’ve steered clear of the protracted destination discussions.    Turns out it was pretty esoteric despite being close to the road. If in the Peak it would have 200+ routes but it had 18 of which the 8 sport routes were all put up in the early 90’s. Took some time to locate the Flying Monkeys wall which was a pleasant vert wall which reminded me of B Team buttress at Pembroke. Did 4 of the 5 routes. Then went further along for Yellow Brick Road at 11b given 5 stars which was off vertical and looked quarried. Didn’t think it was that great but Keith did. Started questing further along to get to the next crag (Global Village) passing under a gnarly looking old skool vert 12a. The path ran out so retraced steps and Keith had a look at the 12a. After dogging the boulder problem crux at the start he climbed through to the top. I had sore tips so wasn’t looking forward to it but surprised myself by flashing it.  Running out of daylight so went to start of crag for the five star 11c No Place Like Home up an exposed arête which lived up to its billing.

T

W Muir Valley. Warm. Warmed up at Great Wall on 3 decent routes then moved to the other side of the gorge to the highly recommended Solarium. It was unpleasantly rammed. We all did Air Equipped Ride 11a. Keith then managed to get on Delicatessen 12a which had shut down Chris. He had a similar experience to Chris so I gave it a miss. Options were limited so moved round the corner to join Chris and Sam at The Arsenal which was much quieter and more pleasant. Finished with three good steepish routes.

T

F Drive By. Baltic. Too cold for Chris and Sam as they gave up early. Good place. Quality warm ups. Chris did Hakuna Matata 12a followed by Keith then me. Just the ticket. Mega Brit style wall route on crimpers. Was anxious not to fuck it up.  Then for a bit of move-fast steep - Check Your Grip 12a. Both did it fine. Finished off on the outstanding Spirit Fingers 11c. Good day though a struggle to stay warmish.
.

S.

S. PMRP. Sunny. Shady Grove. Did two steep warm ups but our target route was occupied by a couple then joined by their noisier friends who also wanted a go. Time to move on. Crossed to other side of gorge to North 40 where both target routes were occupied. Filled a bit of time on a 10c then Samurai 12b came free. A steep right slanting seam leading to a steep wall. Not characteristic of the Red. My lead and I put in a big effort but spat off the crux at 15foot. Dogged it but couldn’t unlock it. Keith went up and had a similar experience. I put in another big effort and almost got thru with a powerful move. Then spent a while working and came up with an unlikely sequence which made it static. Decided to strip it as I was tired and the classic 11b Amarillo Sunset came free. Both did it. Great looking line but long reaches and few foot options between polished holds wasn’t my cuppa.

Been hard to recall what we’ve been up to as it all seems a blur looking back.

Had a good day yesterday Snowing today and then 4 degrees tomorrow so might be forced to take 2 rest days.

In other news Paul at his gaffe has embraced the local lifestyle driving in a massive 5.7litre pick up, drinking moonshine, eating pork brains, firing guns and fishing for catfish. 

[Mr E S Capegoat]

Sounds like a proper good holiday Simon. Ace. And lovely to hear Keith is going well too. Say hello from me ✌️💗

[shark]

Will do Dan

[Duma]

Mega Brit style wall route on crimpers.

Sounds like you've been learning the local lingo too

[shark]

Mega Brit style wall route on crimpers.

Sounds like you've been learning the local lingo too

Its contagious 

[shark]

The others have been using Mountain Project which has a lot of feedback for RRG routes whereas the coverage on Sendage currently looks limited

[cheque]

Is the Red River Climbing website still active/ popular? That used to be good.