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What's the hardest move you've ever done? (Read 14770 times)

tomtom

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Double heel hook.... locks you in solid. I can go static to that hold then just to the lip..,

Requires lank, otherwise you get locked in nice and solid but you can’t reach the hold  :lol:

I find this UHand move hard, it’s deffo more of a lottery for me to repeat than stuff that’s harder in paper at the cliff.

Double heel hook to get the slot isn’t a lank move - Anna showed showed me that trick.

Getting the lip with feet on obvs is - but as a throw/cut loose it’s not that bad a move.


Stewart

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Probably the rockover on Tied up and Swallowed 7C as demonstrated on the FA by Paul Sav



I used a heel rather than the toe as in the end of this vid (which has the additional 7B traverse in to it). Feels like your hammy is going to rip every time! Good memories of this one as i'd sacked it for the day after a few failed attempts before my mate convinced me to have one more go, just as the tide was just about to cover the starting foothold. My 2nd kid was due a few days later so i knew i wasn't getting another session on it any time soon and my first kid stole the show by trying to remove the mats mid attempt!


Oldmanmatt

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The right hand slap to the nose, whilst holding the undercling with your left, on “Biceps power” Can Boquet.
At first, I couldn’t even imagine how to release the right.
Then it seemed such a long way/time to hold the position with your left arm screaming.
Then the frickin nose seemed impossible to actually hold anyway.
Then, the idea of moving on from the nose, or even blinking, whilst your left arm burned and your right hand began to slip...
Three sessions a week, nigh on eight months.
One fricken move.

lagerstarfish

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One comes to mind is an eliminate just left of Trackside, using a mono and a sort of polished bump, going for a high pocket.

I love that problem.
I can't do it at the moment.

grimer

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It's kinda a hard one to love in some ways, and I could never touch it again either.

Yoof

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Interesting thread. I’ve had to split it into sub-questions…

Hard and big grade for me: Crossover on Caveman Low. Move by itself wasn’t that low percentage, but adding a single easy hand move and three tricky foot moves made it hard to get the power.
ManOr Mouse. So hard to get the distance and then hold it.

Hard and smaller grade for me: L’Impasse du Hasard. Think I tried this over 6 sessions before I could get my foot up to do it. The gurn was strong…

Biggest number: Joker/Ferrino Footless/Grey House

Easiest move not done: First move of pitch two of Suicide Wall at Bosigran


Find it interesting that I can’t think of any really hard static/slow moves, and that there aren’t that many mentioned. First move of Flatworld would have taken that spot for me a few years ago, but getting a bit more lock strength knocked it off the list.

Yoof

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One comes to mind is an eliminate just left of Trackside, using a mono and a sort of polished bump, going for a high pocket.

I love that problem.
I can't do it at the moment.

Still can't do that one, although I was using the sidepull, not the mono. Lost so much knuckle skin to it over the years...

SA Chris

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First move of pitch two of Suicide Wall at Bosigran

Is that the polished ex-peg crack / seam? I seem to remember being able to lank round that somehow.

Danny

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Did someone ask "what's a move?" earlier in this thread? Regardless of number hand or foot movements, I would say a move is simply any shenanigans occurring between two points of relative stability.

Two obvious candidates for me:

The slap on Blacking out the Friction at Godrevy, which seems to be both low percentage in terms of needing accuracy, and is also on the very limit of my contact strength. More strength across the shoulders very quickly makes this trivial for stronger climbers.

The first move of Eat It SS at Fair Head. The whole problem is at least 7C in my book, and this move is acutely the crux. It's weird though, because some fairly average climbers absolutely piss it, and some 8th grade climbers find it hard.



Fiend

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I asked it, and thanks for an answer!

Yoof

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First move of pitch two of Suicide Wall at Bosigran

Is that the polished ex-peg crack / seam? I seem to remember being able to lank round that somehow.

Not sure! I only remember fear and a lack of holds...

AMorris

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Also some fun sub-categories

Easiest move I keep falling off - perhaps it's that I only ever get there at the end of a session, perhaps it karma for getting bored on the top out on my third go and just sitting down on the mat, but I find matching the lip on Cromlech roof crack to be horrendous and unpleasant!

Hardest move I have tried - First move of Sway On... How...

monkoffunk

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First move of pitch two of Suicide Wall at Bosigran

Is that the polished ex-peg crack / seam? I seem to remember being able to lank round that somehow.

Not sure! I only remember fear and a lack of holds...

Remember doing this years ago, but it was the first move of pitch 4 I couldn’t do at all!

SA Chris

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Think you are both thinking of the same thing. First pitch is easy ground, often soloed.

monkoffunk

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Ah right! 10 years since I was on it, curious as to what that move would feel like now.

SA Chris

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14 years on for me, I think I'd find it nails!!

 

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