the shizzle > MoonBoard

Moonboard feet following hands

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Ballsofcottonwool:

--- Quote from: nai on October 14, 2019, 08:14:40 pm ---I never liked the feet-follows-hands rule in the past but have accepted it's a style I'm not good at but will be good for me if I sick at it.
--- End quote ---

Feet-follows hands rule is natural  and I apreciate it forces a powerful style but it is very confusing, because once I climb past a hold I can't see the bloody LEDs and all the holds look the same once they are covered in chalk.

Will Hunt:
You could probably split and merge this with that Kilter board thread.
My experience of the Moon Board itself is very limited. I have the yellow Moon holds on my 40 degree board and could never understand why people complained about them. They're basically a set of varyingly shaped crimps - some positive and chunky, some less so. There are a few horrors in there which I rarely use - like the stupid bobbly horn thing. I notice that Doylo uses them on his board so that's a good enough endorsement for me.

My experience of the Moon Board itself is just a quick look at the end of a session at the Lab. The first thing you need to do is download the app and register - fine. But for some reason the app then makes you download all of the problems that have been set (some 50000 I think). On the wall's wifi, this took about 10 minutes or so which was a bit frustrating. Why not allow the user to enter the board set up that they're using and then only download problems which will actually be climbable?

Some of the holds that aren't part of the original set are quite nasty. Big juggy horrors which seem to pull at the skin. The LEDs thing is a cool idea, but does have a flaw in that when you're actually on the board the LED is often concealed by the hold that you're going for - the Kilter holds look to have solved that. The most notable issue was that the majority of the holds below half height were fucked from being used as footholds. The Lab is a wall that doesn't really keep on top of its dust problem anyway, and the holds just had the look about them of being polished, blackened, dust ground in specimens.

I'm sure you can have a great session on the Moon Board but there are some problems there. The Kilter Board looks cool but I'm sceptical about the variable angle thing. And they've still got the horrible feet-follow-hands set up. Holds that feel about right at 30/40 degrees are going to be unusable to anyone but super wads at anything more than 50 degrees. If there's multiple people using the board at a time, how do you fairly decide what angle to set it at? Maybe leave that to the wall to control and agree a rotation - Tuesday night is 50 night etc? The holds look comfy, but are they all juggy crimps?

teestub:
I do a lot of feet follow hands climbing outside 😄 tends to be more beefy in style than feet on jibs. On this point I think the kilter ones have different LEDs to denote holds that are just to use as footholds too, which I thought was a good addition.

Will Hunt:

--- Quote from: teestub on October 15, 2019, 10:20:03 am ---I do a lot of feet follow hands climbing outside 😄 tends to be more beefy in style than feet on jibs. On this point I think the kilter ones have different LEDs to denote holds that are just to use as footholds too, which I thought was a good addition.

--- End quote ---

Indeed. But that sort of climbing can be found on the regular indoor problems. On a board, the holds go on and they stay on (and thus are never really cleaned and swapped over), so implementing a climbing style where they get trashed very quickly just seems daft.

sdm:

--- Quote from: Will Hunt on October 15, 2019, 10:06:20 am ---You could probably split and merge this with that Kilter board thread.
My experience of the Moon Board itself is very limited. I have the yellow Moon holds on my 40 degree board and could never understand why people complained about them. They're basically a set of varyingly shaped crimps - some positive and chunky, some less so. There are a few horrors in there which I rarely use - like the stupid bobbly horn thing. I notice that Doylo uses them on his board so that's a good enough endorsement for me.

My experience of the Moon Board itself is just a quick look at the end of a session at the Lab. The first thing you need to do is download the app and register - fine. But for some reason the app then makes you download all of the problems that have been set (some 50000 I think). On the wall's wifi, this took about 10 minutes or so which was a bit frustrating. Why not allow the user to enter the board set up that they're using and then only download problems which will actually be climbable?

Some of the holds that aren't part of the original set are quite nasty. Big juggy horrors which seem to pull at the skin. The LEDs thing is a cool idea, but does have a flaw in that when you're actually on the board the LED is often concealed by the hold that you're going for - the Kilter holds look to have solved that. The most notable issue was that the majority of the holds below half height were fucked from being used as footholds. The Lab is a wall that doesn't really keep on top of its dust problem anyway, and the holds just had the look about them of being polished, blackened, dust ground in specimens.
--- End quote ---

The yellow holds are okish but quite tweaky when repeatedly doing big moves to them as they are small but very positive with not much radius.

The black and white holds are an abomination. Big holds with sharp edges everywhere that ruin your skin and increase the chance of injury.

The wood holds are less bad but are super conditions dependent and need brushing after every attempt unless you enjoy firing off at random. Every other make of wooden holds are much better.

The red slopey holds are ok but there's far too many jugs on the red set.

The app could be more user friendly but it's ok. Lots of walls solve the setup issue by having a communal tablet set up.

The concept of the moon board was great but the execution was awful. If they scrapped nearly all of the existing holds and replaced them with something that isn't designed to ruin your skin and tendons and if they positioned the LEDs so that they could actually be seen when you're climbing, then they would be a decent training facility.


--- Quote ---The Kilter Board looks cool but I'm sceptical about the variable angle thing. And they've still got the horrible feet-follow-hands set up. Holds that feel about right at 30/40 degrees are going to be unusable to anyone but super wads at anything more than 50 degrees. If there's multiple people using the board at a time, how do you fairly decide what angle to set it at? Maybe leave that to the wall to control and agree a rotation - Tuesday night is 50 night etc? The holds look comfy, but are they all juggy crimps?

--- End quote ---

The woody at our local wall is adjustable angle. We just reach a consensus among the people using it as to what angle to use and if there's any conflict, we keep it at whatever angle it is already on.

It's not usually a problem to reach a consensus. A couple of times I've delayed a power endurance set until someone is done using it at 50°+. It might be more of a problem in Sheffield or Leeds than in a climbing backwater where the board isn't very popular.

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