[shark]

10.11-13 Average 153.2lbs 0.2lbs up

M

T Pulled plug on Malham trip as Oak wet.    Afternoon. Tor with Victor. Intermittent sunshine and showers. Only Churnet Matthew there - Blackwell refugee. Dawid turned up later with photos of his recent trip tonTatra which he reckoned had more potential than Rocklands. Warmed up but struggled on start to get traction on the pinch (glassy? me?) Got thru on 4th attempt and waltzed thru into THFML feeling fresh. Made a big effort to aim for the left of the rail on the reach and went too far! which left me overextended and my legs flew off but I almost reeled it back in but not quite. Failed to get thru the starting moves after that.  Following a dabbed ascent Victor then lived up to his name with a clean ascent.

Eve. Weighted deadhangs on Ergo Edge but well below par so stopped. Decided it was a signal that I needed a couple of rest days and an easier week

W

T

F We pulled plug on Malham again following reports from Jerome.  Weighed light (151.6lbs) tipped down all morning so hardly inspiring Neverthelesd headed out at lunch time with dogs figuring at least they could get a nice run if it was crap connies. Forgot one of the pads. On arrival surprised that there were a dozen or so there inc Mic_b and Theo. Middle was dry but far right of crag was drenched with run off. Rain abated. About 10/12 degrees but felt warm.

Standard warm up: Jumping pull-ups on Weedkiller jug. Standing deadhangs on one of the crimps, THFML a couple of times, deadhang off the crimps on the kick move then kneepad on and then link kneebar rest to second kneebar (pissed kick move).

Bit of a break. Brushed, chalked and dried holds as appropriate. Squeezed some secret stuff liquid chalk on my fingers Felt greasy. Realised it was actually a tube of Elizabeth Arden moisturiser  Spent a minute towelling off every last bit from my tips Almost as an afterthought set up the camera. Put it in a different place to keep it away from where the dogs were tied up so they didn’t knock it over. All the while most there were packing up and leaving and suddenly it was quiet.

Couple of jelly babies. Pulled on. Was worried that I would be weak on pinch like on Tuesday but it felt ok - pulled hips up high but not stable enough on it to walk my feet around but the cut loose and swivel was very controlled. Pulled chalk bag out of front of shorts (keep it there otherwise chalk spills everywhere) and chalked up Readjusted on kneebar reaching out to crimps foot up on the pinch dropped out of kneebar holding position with right foot turning on pinch and it started to lose traction a little quicker than I expected but reacted quick enough to stab for niche and get comfortably into second kneebar. Felt fresh. Next moves went smoothly into THFML and set up and executed final throw perfectly - glued on - just felt like I was just doing THFML. At final jugs I still felt fresh. It had been effortless.

Where was the fight? I was only warmed up. Surprised how overwhelmed I felt. All the doubts and anguish had instantly gone and the void filled with giddiness. It was meant to be ‘just training’. Who was I kidding? Hug with Theo. 

Didn’t know what to do with myself.  Texted the news to family, sprayed the internet then took dogs for a walk then drove home. Bumped into Jenny H and Rob Barker in Fulwood on way back when I stopped for a paper. Hugs from them too.

S AM Victor keen for another 7C so I took him to Soul Crusher at Anston. Initially he wasn’t impressed: “visually zis is awful” but he soon got into it and pronounced that it was cool. Core and fingers much stronger than when last on it. Managed all the hard moves individually. Felt wiped when I got home.

S PM systems board warm up. AeroCap 20/10s 2secs per move. First set completed 120 moves. Second set blew out at 83 moves. Disappointing.

Been fairly hard at it now for a few weeks and felt like I was flagging on Tuesday so gave myself two rest days rest in case the Oak dried and used those days to cut back on the calories as I was in danger of creeping back over 11 stone. By Friday morning Id dropped 2lbs and was a whisker off my all time low at 10stone 11lbs (post send I’ve regained it again).

Overwhelmed with reaction on here, FB and elsewhere. Thank you everyone. 

I started on Bens in June 2014 and didn’t even get through to the first kneebar that year - my best effort being the below video. As it’s always dry, a short walk in and 30 mins drive It made far more logistical sense than the Oak as a project. Even now it could still keep giving as there are obviously various progressions and I’d like to get stuck into working it without kneebars into the original finish at some point.

Oak still wet. Think I’ll have another session on Soul Crusher on Tuesday. Definitely fits the power training brief. Need to keep the faith despite dismal weather and stay light.

5 years ago - a dozen sessions in, trying hard and still failing to get first kneebar


Friday

[Fiend]

Squeezed some secret stuff liquid chalk on my fingers Felt greasy. Realised it was actually a tube of Elizabeth Arden moisturiser

Now those are the pro-tactics we need 

[yetix]

Getting back on this as psych is low this week after illness and various family things coming up. Form had been previously been really good and hoping this is just  an off week because of everything going on.

STG: 100 7As in 2019 (currently on 81), another 7C and focus on a short list of problems I'd like to get done.
MTG: 7C+
LTG: 8A

M: gym, bench press 5x5 @65kg, weighted pull ups 5x5 @25kg, finger curls 3x20, wrist curls 3x12, reverse wrist curls 3x12
T: rest
W: felt incredibly ill, wasn't sure if I'd go out, decided late in the day to go Devils Gorge as its not too far from mine, sent panties down, firestarter and gasoline finish before getting on Be Ruthless, managed to do all the moves into the throw first go but couldn't quite grasp the final hold, which I spent much of the remainder of the session trying to achieve, held momentarily a few times but struggled to hold the swing.
Went to rock over afterwards and did most of the v5-6s.
T: rest
F: felt more ill so more rest.
S: Kentmere, sent negative reality inversion ss and the hole, then dropped off the top (past the crux) of weasel power, had little/no fight in me. Skin was excessively sweaty and terrible I think due to illness. Hopefully this illness will pass soon. Need to sort my head out a little too as would not have dropped weasel power there normally.
S: sub maximal hangs x6

[Will Hunt]

Great write up, Shark. Inspiring to say the least. What stood out to me was the mental state you were in when pulling on. Tranquila. Now just to replicate that on the oak...



T - Depot (Leeds) . The yellows are in crisis. They've been reset and they're piss (mostly). Flashed a few. Did the one on the barrel. I normally can't touch purples on the barrel. Bit of board stuff.
Twanged shoulder (trapezius) near the end. Not too badly but enough to cause pain for the next few days. Took plenty of ibuprofen and paracetamol and did some massage. I really need to get on top of this as it seems whenever I touch a board I last a couple of weeks and then things start to go wrong. I never let them develop into full blown injuries but I'm not really progressing by having to hold back a lot of the time. Also carrying around a bit of a wrist tweak - feels slightly painful when twisting.

Sa - Brimham. Warmed up then did Happy Days. Took some figuring out! Was being careful with the shoulder but eventually found a sequence that worked. Ian's traverse looked fun. Had a couple of goes linking the easy sit into the stand but no dice and didn't want to waste further energy. Ticked another couple of things on our way round. Did the 6C arete thing which has been uncovered just right of longbow. Good addition.
Eventually got round to Titfield Thunderbolt which I've wanted to do for ages. A bit disappointing as it turns out to be another vastly overgraded thing. The crux is pulling on. As soon as you've got the second handhold it's about 6B. But a fun jump anyway.
Went for a look at Dan Turner's new things which were soaked. Had a look at The Prize but it was a bit damp and scrittly - will come back in better connies.

[tomtom]

Nice work Shark... Obvs sending Beta Blocker broke the seal Hope you get another squirt on the Oak before the season ends. Be good to put the confidence success breeds to work...

M: Depot Manchester. Good fun. There are a few very easy purples in the new set - or I am Ondra in disguise...

Tu: Mad Volume in Hull. Again a short power session - that ended up being 90 min or so. Great wall - short sessions with 3 attempts max working problems on the board I couldnt do - but were in range if that makes sense.

Th: Sketchy forecast/conditions so went to Rubicon. Very creaky warm up - but managed to get going. Felt really good on Kudos - up to high points but with good form (hips in - close to rock etc.. felt right). Stopped after a handful of attempts when I started to snag and had lost that snap. Moved onto the Press. Progress again on last week. Not dramatic - but getting into position well, winding the left shoulder in and pressing into the rock with the flagging foot. Deadpointed into the crimp a few times - but still not in quite enough control to want to grab it. Miniscule progress but getting closer. Excellent.

Sa: Up early ish and over to the Wiltons and worked my way from bottom to top.

Bizarrely - there were a group of loud bird watchers stood on the crest between Wilton 3 and 2... well thats not necessarily bizarre - but they were loud - excited and swearing alot. "Fook me - two fooking wag tails". "LOOK dave, thats FIVE FOOKIN linnets". "DAVE, DAVE, theres 5, 6, no 8 thingy geese" (or whatever)... Its a new grouping for me - aggressive birdwatchers.. Felt like being in a fast show sketch....

Anyway, in W3 I set up camp under the Square (other side of the quarry from the effin and jeffin twitchers). A GOOD session on Rodins Requiem - a classsic old 7B+ on the Square. Took ages to get warmed into it - but by the last few attempts managed to start getting my weight across pulling on the right toe. Unusual move - and never got over that far before. It started to get way too hot in the sun - so moved over to the shady side where TEAM TWITCHER fuck yeah were above me. It seems they were involved in some sort of bird survey (I guess its the time of year) - but I never realised it was that competetive... I could hear them getting whatsapp updates about however many fookin linnetts Jez had seen over in XYZ... Meanwhile - Dave seemed to be the tally person - and was getting a bit pissed off with having bird numbers shouted at me "hang on lads I need to catch up" and it sounded like he wanted a go spotting rather than writing... Whilst over there I did the 7A stand to RMans new 7B+ problem over on the shady side. Bit of a one move wonder but nice and it went quite quickly.

W2 Sat in the sun for a bit and drank coffee. COuldnt hear so much of team twitch... much more serene. Did the RH arete of Purple Feel which gets 7A in RMans new problem topo - another one move wonder off the deck and much easier than the other one - but nice anyway.

W4 A bit dank in W4 with no wind - but had a good play on Nowt But Chips - a fecking desperate 7A+ (stand) arete.. Badgered RMan for beta via text but that didnt help me...

Good day out. Couple of new ticks.

[Fiend]

M: Depot Manchester. Good fun. There are a few very easy purples in the new set - or I am Ondra in disguise...

Yes there are, 2nd room especially. Good ones though. It's nice to be able to actually do some purples as they're fun holds.

[Wood FT]

10.11-13 Average 153.2lbs 0.2lbs up

M

T Pulled plug on Malham trip as Oak wet.    Afternoon. Tor with Victor. Intermittent sunshine and showers. Only Churnet Matthew there - Blackwell refugee. Dawid turned up later with photos of his recent trip tonTatra which he reckoned had more potential than Rocklands. Warmed up but struggled on start to get traction on the pinch (glassy? me?) Got thru on 4th attempt and waltzed thru into THFML feeling fresh. Made a big effort to aim for the left of the rail on the reach and went too far! which left me overextended and my legs flew off but I almost reeled it back in but not quite. Failed to get thru the starting moves after that.  Following a dabbed ascent Victor then lived up to his name with a clean ascent.

Eve. Weighted deadhangs on Ergo Edge but well below par so stopped. Decided it was a signal that I needed a couple of rest days and an easier week

W

T

F We pulled plug on Malham again following reports from Jerome.  Weighed light (151.6lbs) tipped down all morning so hardly inspiring Neverthelesd headed out at lunch time with dogs figuring at least they could get a nice run if it was crap connies. Forgot one of the pads. On arrival surprised that there were a dozen or so there inc Mic_b and Theo. Middle was dry but far right of crag was drenched with run off. Rain abated. About 10/12 degrees but felt warm.

Standard warm up: Jumping pull-ups on Weedkiller jug. Standing deadhangs on one of the crimps, THFML a couple of times, deadhang off the crimps on the kick move then kneepad on and then link kneebar rest to second kneebar (pissed kick move).

Bit of a break. Brushed, chalked and dried holds as appropriate. Squeezed some secret stuff liquid chalk on my fingers Felt greasy. Realised it was actually a tube of Elizabeth Arden moisturiser  Spent a minute towelling off every last bit from my tips Almost as an afterthought set up the camera. Put it in a different place to keep it away from where the dogs were tied up so they didn’t knock it over. All the while most there were packing up and leaving and suddenly it was quiet.

Couple of jelly babies. Pulled on. Was worried that I would be weak on pinch like on Tuesday but it felt ok - pulled hips up high but not stable enough on it to walk my feet around but the cut loose and swivel was very controlled. Pulled chalk bag out of front of shorts (keep it there otherwise chalk spills everywhere) and chalked up Readjusted on kneebar reaching out to crimps foot up on the pinch dropped out of kneebar holding position with right foot turning on pinch and it started to lose traction a little quicker than I expected but reacted quick enough to stab for niche and get comfortably into second kneebar. Felt fresh. Next moves went smoothly into THFML and set up and executed final throw perfectly - glued on - just felt like I was just doing THFML. At final jugs I still felt fresh. It had been effortless.

Where was the fight? I was only warmed up. Surprised how overwhelmed I felt. All the doubts and anguish had instantly gone and the void filled with giddiness. It was meant to be ‘just training’. Who was I kidding? Hug with Theo. 

Didn’t know what to do with myself.  Texted the news to family, sprayed the internet then took dogs for a walk then drove home. Bumped into Jenny H and Rob Barker in Fulwood on way back when I stopped for a paper. Hugs from them too.

S AM Victor keen for another 7C so I took him to Soul Crusher at Anston. Initially he wasn’t impressed: “visually zis is awful” but he soon got into it and pronounced that it was cool. Core and fingers much stronger than when last on it. Managed all the hard moves individually. Felt wiped when I got home.

S PM systems board warm up. AeroCap 20/10s 2secs per move. First set completed 120 moves. Second set blew out at 83 moves. Disappointing.

Been fairly hard at it now for a few weeks and felt like I was flagging on Tuesday so gave myself two rest days rest in case the Oak dried and used those days to cut back on the calories as I was in danger of creeping back over 11 stone. By Friday morning Id dropped 2lbs and was a whisker off my all time low at 10stone 11lbs (post send I’ve regained it again).

Overwhelmed with reaction on here, FB and elsewhere. Thank you everyone. 

I started on Bens in June 2014 and didn’t even get through to the first kneebar that year - my best effort being the below video. As it’s always dry, a short walk in and 30 mins drive It made far more logistical sense than the Oak as a project. Even now it could still keep giving as there are obviously various progressions and I’d like to get stuck into working it without kneebars into the original finish at some point.

Oak still wet. Think I’ll have another session on Soul Crusher on Tuesday. Definitely fits the power training brief. Need to keep the faith despite dismal weather and stay light.

5 years ago - a dozen sessions in, trying hard and still failing to get first kneebar


Friday

Really inspiring to see how shit you were at the start of this campaign, as I am currently failing to get into the kneebar on my sporadic attempts.

[petejh]

Bizarrely - there were a group of loud bird watchers stood on the crest between Wilton 3 and 2... well thats not necessarily bizarre - but they were loud - excited and swearing alot. "Fook me - two fooking wag tails". "LOOK dave, thats FIVE FOOKIN linnets". "DAVE, DAVE, theres 5, 6, no 8 thingy geese" (or whatever)... Its a new grouping for me - aggressive birdwatchers.. Felt like being in a fast show sketch....

Sound like a pair of tits.

[shark]

Really inspiring to see how shit you were at the start of this campaign, as I am currently failing to get into the kneebar on my sporadic attempts.

So shit that it inspired this thread 

[Doylo]

Really inspiring to see how shit you were at the start of this campaign, as I am currently failing to get into the kneebar on my sporadic attempts.

So shit that it inspired this thread 

Enjoyed that.

[nai]

Effort, Simon.

STG: Moonboard 7A, Lime > Font 7B.
Spring 2020 Lime Font 7C.

M
Moonboard - warmed up with a 6A+ third attempt, tried a few problems off my growing hitlist and managed a 6C from last week in a couple of attempts. Flashed a 6B.  Decent session
Bit of skillz practice on autobelays, was dismayed to start becoming pumped after a few laps of a 6a
Double Core

T - Earth Quarry with Dolly. Both did the classic Big Dig but couldn't work out what was so classic about it. It's an arete which is unusual for a lime problem I suppose but a grim contorted pullon giving yourself a wedgie on the sloping ground, make the crux slap, follow jugs to the lip then do a grovelly mantle. I mean, it's ok, worth a star but a bit disappointing if you believed the hype. All the other decent looking stuff was degress of damp, we tried some of the stuff on Sunset Wall but realised life's too short.
Core

W Back a bit tight, massage, stretching, few bodyweight calisthenics movements, handstands, etc, some gentle core

Th - half decent day but psyche oddly low.  Agreed to meet Tom at Rubicon but heart wasn't really in it. Did half a power session on my board beforehand, completed two of my new projects from last week.I was either tired then or improved now as they both felt steady.  Arrived at Rubicon at 11:15 and left at 12 having checked out Kudos sit start (I mean, ffs...) and crossed it off my potential >7Bs list, but mostly skulked around moaning (Sorry, Tom.)
Headed to the Tor to look at Cave Problem. I tried this a few years back and got precisely nowhere but videos by some shit looking folk encourage me that it can't be that bad and I must have missed something.  After half an hour I've tried four methods, come close with a couple but had to dismiss them, all set to give up when a moment of inspiration struck and a couple of attempts later I'm screaming into an empty valley having done the first move. It's the little things that matter. Checked out the remainder, was rather expecting it to be all over once the heel's on but there's a bit more work to do. Didn't quite work out the remainder but went home happy.

One arm scap shrugs
Core

F - Max hangs, exatly the same scores as when I last did them 3/4 months ago. Not sure whether I should bother doing these at the moment or just boulder.
3x10 / leg One-leg swiss-ball leg curls
3x10 / leg assisted  pistol squats
10x BW Deadlift

Sat -
Legs hurt, but in the right places... Planned to rest today
Eldest was at a party all day so offered nipper chance to do whatever. She asked to go climbing. tried to persuade her otherwise but she was adamant. And not outside either, she wanted to go to the wall!  So we checked out the Depot which is quite impressive.  She did a load of Blues and a few Blacks, I slotted in a few more Blacks and Reds and tried a few harder things when she had to work a problem for a while. Had a quick Moonboard session at the end, did another 6C fairly steadily although it felt like cheating on a board that still has texture. Doubt I'll ever use that one again though as the two other woodies look superb.

S rest

[gollum]

M - Still in Chester so a trip to the Boardroom seems like a good way to finish off the weekend away. Have a steady day doing lots of fairly steady problems and a couple of slightly harder ones but pleased as today is about recovery and movement rather than pulling as hard as I can. On the way out we have a play on the slack line and find that it is just as tricky as I used to find it twenty years ago.
Rest of the day is given over to relaxing.

T - Leg session in the gym. This was always going to be interesting two days after a marathon. Start with standard squats and concentrate on going as deep as I possibly can and holding a good pause at the bottom. Keep the weight low and finish on 90k. Then on to box squats for doubles and work up to 115k which feels okay but I am massively aware that the difference between feeling easy and being nowhere near able to move the weight is about 2kg. Finish squats with Anderson squats. Work up to 140k for doubles with the stance getting progressively wider the heavier they get, by the time I finish I am back to a proper wide powerlifting stance. Move on to deadlifts for doubles and work up to 140 which feels heavy but not busting a gut. Finish with some isometric core work with Paloff presses and holding knee raises against the resistance of a band. A good finisher. Overall pretty pleased that legs not in such bad state.
Sheffield Depot for training later in the morning. Scapular work to start followed by some campus boarding. Just working on steady progress, with nothing too hard but good power work. Then play briefly on the Moonboard and discover that I’m still not keen on it, although should maybe persevere with it. On to repeaters which are okay but feel tougher than I would like. Do a few circuits to finish the climbing element of the session and feel pretty pleased with how they went. Finish the entire session with some rack pulls up to 150k and then  5x5 pull ups adding 4K every set up to 16k. Nice and solid.

W - Back to pushing. Start with bench press at 5x5 finishing on 80k which is well within me and a good solid warm up. Then work up on decline bench for singles. At 100k I feel really solid but 105k is a lot more shakey, so call it quits at that. Onto the Smith machine and guillotine incline presses. Work up to 85 for 3 with slow steady movement throughout. Finish the session with some solid chest dips that feel really good for the stretch in the upper part of my chest. Happy start to the day.
Off to Leeds Depot to have a go at the new yellows. Get up a handful and get some pretty good links on a few others. I need to stick at it and get a few more of this set done.
Finish the day off with a well earned sports massage for my legs which is painful to say the least but hopefully will be good for my legs going forward.

T - Plan was to go for a run during the day but legs don’t feel up to it after long weekend and yesterday’s massage so just chill during the morning instead.
Steady weights at lunchtime working on biceps and triceps again. Do lots of curls and presses all in a broadly hypertrophic range. Have a bit of pain in right bicep as it goes out of shape but seems okay after a bit of massage. Finish off with a bit of core work. Good session.
Evening social session at Leeds Depot. Struggling a bit and don’t really achieve anything new but do make some solid progress on a couple of yellows, as my mate said, all I have to do now is get stronger. Have started working on some of harder circuits as forces me to work feet and try hard, so hopefully that will see some gains.

F - Sheffield Depot. Warm up with some stretching, bands and rehab for general broken bits. Start off with a campus session, using some of stuff that was on UKB earlier in the week, which should provide some structure going forward.
Move on to some repeaters which feel solid again, so pretty happy with that.
Move on to some pulling and lifting. Deadlifts to start and absolutely solid at 150 with really good speed but 160 is a fail today. Then some heavy shrugs and Roman Chair to target other areas of my back. Off set pull-ups comes next, trying to increase reps from last week, which I do. Some T-bar rows to follow with a long hold at the top of the movement. Finish big pulls with wide grip pulls for 5x5 up to body weight plus 20k. Then finish weights and fingers with a quick set of block holds, which I think may be worth incorporating into my training.
Finally do two easy circuits to end what has felt like a very productive session.

S - Push day at the gym. Bench for doubles up to a steady 100 and then do exactly the same on decline bench. Move on to some dumbbell work with reverse pyramids at 20, 30 and 40. I have forgotten how hard dumbbell presses are to be honest. Finish the session with flys drop set to get the muscles quivering, long slow reps and quite a lot of them. Set up for the weekend.

S - Pull at the gym. Deadlift singles up to 140, nice and steady. Then do some barbell rows with a hold and Roman chair. Alternating machine pull downs up to 50k per arm for 8 reps. Finish with some face pulls and pull ups as a superset.
Quick visit to Leeds Depot, tick off another yellow and work moves on a few others. Quick effective session.

Another good week. Back to mixing in the running next week and keeping up the intensity.

[teestub]

Checked out the remainder, was rather expecting it to be all over once the heel's on but there's a bit more work to do.

Just a word of warning for those moves, I’m sure you’ve been to the Tor enough to hear the stories, but that heel hook had claimed more than one knee ligament!

[nai]

Thanks, yes I'm aware of that, will definitely be looking for a sequence that minimises the risk and prepared to walk away (while I still can) if I'm not happy with it.

[galpinos]

LTGs: F7C, E5, F8a
Winter Goals: Multiple F7Bs, a 7B+, get down to 80kg
Currently 85kg

M – AeroCap @ -36kg, Max Hangs @ +26kg
T – Travel To Chamonix
W – Meeting
T – Meeting which finished earlier than expected so decided to try a run/walk up to the Mer de Glace. Great on the way up but within the first 100m of the descent my right leg totally cramped up and it turned into an ungainly hobble back to the hotel. Pissed off as had sorted a partner to climb with the next day.
F – Cragging Barberine, 10 pitches, 8 of which were 6a to 6b/+. First four pitches of Barbourine into the last six of Vipere au Pied avoiding all wetness. Fab day, gneiss climbing is quite technical, everything seemed like a holdless slab or overhang and I was mentally quite tired by the end. Not used to quite so much climbing (10 pitches in four hours) and a slight buzz kill at the ledge after the fourth pitch to find the girl from the team ahead had hit the ledge from above the second bolt when off route, thankfully only a sprained ankle but didn't take the shine off a great day. Bizarrely, the right quad was totally fine.
S – No partner to climb so went for a run walk through the Aiguille Rouge. Absolute belter of a day. 17.4 miles, ~2000m of height gained/lost, scenery/terrain to die for. Felt like I was in a Salomon promo video. Chamonix-Palpraz-Col du Cornu-Col de la Gliere-Index-Lac Blanc-Lac des Chesreys-Flegere-Chamonix. Barely saw anyone until Lac Blanc, loads of crowds until starting the descent/return leg from Lac des Chesreys then not a soul until picking the Petit Balcon Sud back up.
S – Travel home. Too tired to fingerboard!

Great week but being back at work has hit hard!

[AMorris]

been slate focused recently so I have had a few nice days in the quarries in the last few weeks.

M - General climbing at the wall. Despite feeling quite weak I managed to get through my hard jenga blocks problem (which keeps getting harder as bits fall off the holds, currently about to cross the threshold into 7C+) first go, which was nice! Endurance and flexibility feeling good at the moment, which is something I have rarely been able to say.

T - Rest.

W - First hang session in a while. General lack of sleep meant it was a weak one, I could do the BM 20mm for 10s with relative ease both arms, but could not add weight at all. Made me realise if I want to get up a boulder which is actually hard I could do a bit more hanging. Still, decent foundation of finger strength to build on at the moment which was encouraging.

T - Another poorly considered, super busy and sweaty wall session. Continued my tradition of very nearly but not quite sticking the first hideous move of my project, bringing the tally near 100 attempts at this single move, basically still on my flash attempt... Finished by deciding that I am going to dedicate a session a week to campussing through the panel from a sitter. Revolutionary stuff.

F - Rest

S - Slate day. Unfortunately despite the forecast we were dodging showers a bit, but because its slate it goes from absolutely piss wet to bone dry in 5 minutes of wind. Had a massive pasta explosion in my bag so my shoes got covered in olive oil, sub optimal. Managed to get enough of the oil off to onsight Goose Creature (E3 surelynot6a), though the move to the first bolt was a little nervy with slippery boots. First lubricated ascent? Rain came in so we headed up a tier and I did shortys dyno (somewhere between 6a and 6c), which I felt was okay at 6b ish, but I think I used a lower hold for the span so it felt extended. Rain came in again and we escaped to the lodge for some well earned coffee. Not the grand day out I was preparing for but I was happy to get on the goose, great route!

S - Wildly hungover.

now that its a bit colder, the slate is feeling great to climb on. I have a forlorn aim of leading windows of perception at the end of the season, but the crux foot hold has gotten worse recently so its looking unlikely.

[Fiend]

Goose Creature (E3 surelynot6a)

6b you think?? I thought it was more like F6c and E3 6a, but then again I didn't oil up my boots before an ascent. What is it with Power Club members and excessive lubrication at the moment??

P.S. If you're on a slate tip, can you get on Beltane at Bus Stop and tell me how to do the 3rd and 5th cruxes, ta.

[cheque]

Effort Shark. 

Really inspiring to see how shit you were at the start of this campaign

 

Rehab Diaries Week Sixty

STG- Sub-HVS *** Peak Trad list (6/27 remain), onsight HVS by end of 2019.

M- Rest.

T- Gym. Bike. This was the first of the pulmonary fitness sessions that I've been putting off. Plan was to get the wheels pedals turning at 80RPM and, starting at level zero (which pretty much pedals itself) increase the levels by one for 15 minutes then decrease down to zero for the next fiften, all the while maintaing the 80RPM "cadence" and therefore getting suitably puffed out.

All went well until 10 minutes in when I "blew up" and decided I'd better stop increasing the levels. A minute later I started decreasing and a minute or so later I stopped involuntarily. About five minutes rest later (as I've said before, the gym is totally unsuited for resting as there's nowhere to sit apart from on the machines and the only clock is in a little nichey bit so not visibile from most of the gym...) I did the same thing again with the same results. Just need to keep on this scheduleand get gradually better. 

W- Rest.

T- Hiked out to Crow Chin and back from the A57 after work. Tried to go fast for a bit of those sweet training gainz. Really pretty soggy and atmospheric.

F- Rest.

S- Stanage. Climbed at Cosmic Buttress and had hoped to climb lots of routes there (including the HVS) but after two my patient girlfriend/ belay slave had lost feeling in her fingers so moved to Crow Chin. The HVSs there didn't really suit me (boulder problems into unprotected climbing that I wasn't particularly confident about so ended up just doing some HSs.

S- Left guidebook at Stanage so hiked out to Crow Chin and back from the A57 before breakfast. Tried to go fast 'cos I just wanted to get my book back. Even soggier and even more atmospheric- actually really enjoyed it.

Sunday was the first time since my accident that I haven't felt worked at all after climbing the previous day. This is great in a way but it's a sign that I need to try harder! I love climbing with my other half but the combination of her lack of confidence at belaying and my reticence to take falls is not a recipe for achievement and needs addressing.

[AMorris]

Goose Creature (E3 surelynot6a)

6b you think?? I thought it was more like F6c and E3 6a, but then again I didn't oil up my boots before an ascent. What is it with Power Club members and excessive lubrication at the moment??

P.S. If you're on a slate tip, can you get on Beltane at Bus Stop and tell me how to do the 3rd and 5th cruxes, ta.

No I thought more like 5c really! To the point where I couldn't really work out which of the top moves was the crux (big rockover using the dish or the thin moves to the good edge). Perhaps I was just feeling in the zone, because I was absolutely loving the climbing. I agree that F6c sounds about right, only gets E3 for the threatening looking death slither to the bottom of Australia you face before the first bolt.

Ah yes, I belayed my friend on Beltane for the 2 years while it was his project but never decided to get on it myself. I am keen to get on it now though and make the most of some vague slate form!

[Coops_13]

Wrist healing continues...

Tues: 20 mins bike in hotel gym then stretching

Wed: c.40 min walk to and around San Diego waterfront

Fri: saw doctor to get referral to physio. Was given some prescription NSAID that seems to be helping and told to wear wrist splint more

Sat: 6.5 mile hike up to and past lake Isabelle. First snow of the season made it gorgeous and moose were a nice addition.

Sun: chilled birthday after the night before. 2.5 mile walk along the local creek trail

[36chambers]

goals: get back to full cranking mode

M: Light core session.
T: Indoors. First proper fiddy board session in about 6 months. Felt pretty weak but at least I was able to try reasonably hard. I've really missed it.
W:
T: Indoors. Fiddy board round two. Repeated some moderates and got shut down on some harder stuff I used to be able to manage. Good session. 
F:
S:
S: Light fingerboard session.

Happy to be able to climb on the board again, looking forward to trying really hard.

[monkoffunk]

STG - Heal finger. Get boulder strong
Lose weight back 74kg.
MTG - Boulder projects.
LTG - 7C

M - Day off after weekend. Boulder shack in Southampton due to forecast. Probably did too much, mostly comp problems.

T - Necessary rest.

W - Took a gamble on Portland in the evening based on rain radar. Torrential rain as I was driving in, streets practically flooding in Easton. Had planned on boulderfield, but instead went to New Cuttings again due to shorter walk in and shelter. Crag totally dry, rain clearly blown over top.

After warm up tried Subyouth Right 7A+ and Lats, babes and bolts 7B. All essentially crimpy nightmares. Completely shut down. Could vaguely see sequence for LBB, but no where near executing. Finished by trying a 6C+, but couldn’t do that either. Bit frustrating. Think I won’t be back here until I’m lighter and with someone who knows how to climb these boulders, because I’m out of ideas.

T - Rest.

F - Rest. Didn’t need it but long day and then drive home.

S - Weighted pull ups 5x5+20kg. Should go back up on these if I’m going to do them. Or perhaps bin them and focus on fingers which are clearly weaker point.

S - Playing around on the finger board. Decided to mix it up a bit and let try something from the ‘simple’ protocol. After warm up did some of the one arm recruitment pulls (can’t hang the middle bottom BM rung one handed yet). I’m uncertain whether trying as hard as I can really does translate to pulling as hard as I can. After that did three two handed hangs on the bottom crimps, 30s, 20s, 20s. Not quite to failure. Stopped after that. Finger feeling fine but didn’t want to push it. Next time will do more, try and do longer. Will try this for a bit and then switch back to weighted shorter hangs.


Continued rain combined with a cold is effecting psych somewhat. Two days this coming week I could get out but am unlikely to. Going to try to organise a font trip for Spring to give some extra motivation kick, but do really want to have a decent try at some of my harder local projects at some point so really need to be in shape for when it finally clears up!

[nai]

Sheffield Depot...
play briefly on the Moonboard and discover that I’m still not keen on it

Sorry if i haven't been payng attention but what is it you don't like about it?  After using the Foundry's I was surprised at how rough some of the holds were on the Depot board, feared for my skin pulling and slapping. Not sure I'd be too enthusiastic about it if that had been my first experience of one.

[gollum]

Sheffield Depot...
play briefly on the Moonboard and discover that I’m still not keen on it

Sorry if i haven't been payng attention but what is it you don't like about it?  After using the Foundry's I was surprised at how rough some of the holds were on the Depot board, feared for my skin pulling and slapping. Not sure I'd be too enthusiastic about it if that had been my first experience of one.

I just find that it’s a style that doesn’t particularly suit me. I do find the holds quite rough but have only used the Moonboards at Sheffield Depor and The Climbing Lab in Leeds. Think I maybe just need to stick with it a bit.

[nai]

I never liked the feet-follows-hands rule in the past but have accepted it's a style I'm not good at but will be good for me if I sick at it. Definite improvements after just a few sessions but I'd find it hard to use the moonboard and not the woodies at the depot.

[spidermonkey09]

Nice one Simon, psyched!

Rotation of one day at piscineta, one day in Mascun continues. Highlight this week was doing an amazing 7c+ at Piscineta called der des ders (translates as last of the last, a French ww1 thing). Incredible bouldery climbing between kneebars on pristine rough tufas on 35 degree overhanging wall. I have been really spoiled by climbing here as the rest of Rodellar feels incredibly polished by comparison. It's still great, but I definitely feel that a) it is probably a better area for those knocking out steep 8s quickly, which I am not with my current levels of bouldering power and b) it's best days may be behind it in the 7s at least. Have also tried No Limit at Surgencia but got shut down: first 10m is incredibly hard to compensate for the 10m of 6a climbing that follows.

Had two sessions on Adios Pepito, the classic Piscineta 8a. Much more my style being 40m of pure endurance without any bouldery sections. Felt impossible and very run out to start with but made some good links today and know where the knees are now so am hopeful of getting that done in the next 10 days, after which I'm off to Siurana for a bit. If not, never mind!

[andy_e]

Can we ban Jim from posting until he gets back from his trip?

[abarro81]

Given that you just did bat route, "boulder power" per se seems unlikely to be a limiting factor in onsighting 8a in rodellar, let alone doing them fast. More likely to be a stylistic issue - comfort on the terrain, being strong at thug etc as it sounds like your experience of harder sport is v malham focused?

May just be semantics but I just found it too weird to read to resist commenting!

[shark]

I got completely shut down in Rodellar and took refuge in trying one of the few vert-ish routes there

[gollum]

I never liked the feet-follows-hands rule in the past but have accepted it's a style I'm not good at but will be good for me if I sick at it. Definite improvements after just a few sessions but I'd find it hard to use the moonboard and not the woodies at the depot.

Yep, that about sums it up for me

[tomtom]

(disclaimer - I've never been or seen a moonboard)

I was gently trying to persuade a local wall owner to invest in a MB and one of the reasons he wasnt so keen was that it was short... (as in few moves).

(true? Shrugs)

[abarro81]

No more or less true than any other board of the same height and angle!

[tomtom]

No more or less true than any other board of the same height and angle!

Really?? wow!

[abarro81]

Like magic innit..

[teestub]

Moon boards are essentially ‘normal’ board size but have been dwarfed in recent years by the massive Beastmaker style boards like the depot examples.

[highrepute]

Nice one Simon. Shame the weather is so crap that you can't carry your success onto the oak. If you don't manage to get it done how about some oak style bouldering over the winter? I guess anything steep and powerful will do. I guess you've done gorilla warfare etc.

Friday
couple of hours at the works. some how got RR to sleep in the buggy in the climbing wall. bit out of shape and cold coming on meant really ached the next day. concentrated of roofy stuff.

Summary
ribs feeling much better. But staying off one armed stuff for a little bit.

[cheque]

ribs feeling much better.

 

[shark]

Nice one Simon. Shame the weather is so crap that you can't carry your success onto the oak. If you don't manage to get it done how about some oak style bouldering over the winter?

Thanks James - yes that’s the vague plan

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - some system stuff, tired. Weights.
Tue - rest.
Wed - fingers, BM pockets very strong. Weights.
Thu - PE low +8 kg 30" x10, tired but did it. Weights.
Fri - weights.
Sat - rest.
Sun - weights.

[SA Chris]

M - nowt
T - nowt
W - no bouldering, 5 k run and quick relook at some boulders I've not been to for a while. Surrounded by gorse now, had to choose between nettles and gorse to get out, opted for nettles.
T - lunch hill reps. I hate hill reps. Necessary evil though.
F - nothing
S - climbing wall with kids in afternoon, grabbed a couple of probs between belay duties. Shoulder feeling OK, until i tried to do an awkward press problem in a corner.
S - long run in afternoon - 21 km. felt OK, only needed a brief interlude in bushes after Wagamamma curry took sudden effect....

[Mr E S Capegoat]

So with Doylo’s backing I wanted to introduce a new form of sports performance psychology nearly exclusively to power club members. It was devised only today while eating a cheese toastie accompanied by a bag of salt n shake crisps. The approach is called ‘Gumpisms’. It basically uses wisdom extracted from the script of the film Forest Gump to help break plateaus in performance and provide a more wholistic vision of our pursuit. The assessment phase is free and then it will cost £10 per gumpism used. The assessment process will be carried out by our specialist team of ‘gumpspurts’ based at multiple centres in the Sheffield area. It will involve deep profiling of stuck states with a free initial gumpism provided at the end to get you started. One of my favourites so far, and might I add one that seems to break the deadlock is ‘Stupid is as stupid does, my mammy used to say’

[shark]

(Rich says hi).

Heard his cv was doing the rounds a while back and “looked to be good to be true” (non climber comment) 

Presume he’s blagged his way into corporate land. He’ll go far

[duncan]

Simon, what do you think nudged you over the line? Why October 2019 and not before?

STG: continue rehab. Try some vertical 7as.
MTG: 7b+ by the end of the year.
LTG: tbc

M - 7km slow jog. Shoulder strength: one arm planks, side planks, IsYsTs (one arm at a time, so more like I k r).
T - Fingerboard, 18mm edge: pick-ups and one arm assisted hangs.
W - Fingerboard, 18mm edge
T - Hip stretches
F - Westway bouldering to ’V2’. Sore elbow and shoulder.
S - Shoulder strength: planks, side planks, IsYsTs. Hip and knee strength.
S - Shoulder strength  7km slow jog.

Shoulder much better, elbow taking time but going in the right direction. Siurana in two weeks: I’ve done two days of easy sport and no route training at all in the last 9 months. Onsighting will not be pretty! Hope this will encourage me to embrace redpointing more fully.

[Ballsofcottonwool]

M: nothing, normally its turbo trainer night,  but bike was in pieces waiting for a new chainset.
T: nothing
W: Avertical World bouldering, 35deg board Black x3 Green x3 attempts, Moonboard Benchmarks 2x6A+ flashed, 2x6A+ 2nd go,  2 attempts each on another 5 other 6A+ benchmarks, 1x attempt each on first 7x6B benchmarks
T:nothing
F: Supposed to be at Transition Extreme climbing with the kids in the evening, but house was total carnage after 1st day of tattie holidays, so spent the evening and most of Saturday morning tidying up instead
S: nothing
S: Aviemore with the family to support wife doing the 10k race. Walked the kids all the way across town 1.5miles and back to the Route7 café for a great breakfast. 3.5mile walk around Loch Morlich with the whole family in the afternoon to stop Jay's legs seizing up. 6.5mile total farthest I've walked all year, legs still aching on Tuesday.

STG(November) Moonboard 6C

MTG(spring clean) clear the shite out of the garage so I have somewhere to train at home again.

LTG    Moonboard 7A,   f8a route

[shark]

Simon, what do you think nudged you over the line? Why October 2019 and not before?

Nudging over the line is about right as I was close several times before but I was always trying whereas last Friday I was all over it.

Not really sure but factors that may have helped
- Being 2kg+ lighter
- The recent campus training making the penultimate lunge move easier and with slightly better contact strength and control
- Better stamina from going on Mescalito and AeroCap systems board work

My core was also stronger releasing the first kneebar for the kick move but I’m not sure why - lack of lard? practicing for and doing the Oak throw move?

[SA Chris]

Heard his cv was doing the rounds a while back and “looked to be good to be true” (non climber comment) 

Presume he’s blagged his way into corporate land. He’ll go far

LOL. Like to see that - fictional work.

[Yossarian]

M - Wall. Decent board session. Finally despatched main project that has proved remarkably stubborn. Got one move further on the next one, before finger split. Ticked a couple of problems downstairs that had resisted previous attempts.
T - Weighted pull-ups / assisted 1-arms. Will add / remove weight next time.
W - Yoga and stretching.
T - Wall. Quiet afternoon session. Similar to Monday, but with a bit less oomph. Ended up downstairs doing 3 sets of 6x problems in descending difficulty with v short rests. Quite hard work, though in retrospect I could prob do with getting pumped a bit more often as I’m a bit worried about route fitness slipping away.
F
S - Wall. Good board session again and then 6x6 of Thursday’s protocol. Knackered by the end.
S - Insanely tired and snoozed lots.

RH index finger PIP has been getting swollen and making weird clicking noises. Fingers in generally feel quite tweaky, so prob best to have an easier week.

Desperate to get out on some rock. Everything local is soaked. Had hoped to get out on the Friday, but forecast for the SW was abysmal. Aiming to escape coming Friday (i.e. tomorrow - originally plan was to head to Cheddar to shunt some stuff on the wave but I think it’s going to be raining. Contemplating diverting to Churnet or Peak instead, which is a major mission for a day trip without an early start, but desperate times, etc...