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campus training (Read 4149 times)

dunnyg

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campus training
October 08, 2019, 09:16:09 pm
So due to a busy wall I found myself pulling on the campus board for the first time in many years. I suprised myself by getting 1 4 7 on both arms, but failed on 1 5 7. Can anyone point me to some knowledge on how to get better. Interested in power. Not sure how many sessions a week,  I assume 1 to make aure elbows dont explode? Also what are the advantages of small rungs vs big rungs? Finally how do you train to progress,  e. g. 157 for me. Do I just keep trying hard to do 157 or should I do some sort of progression?

Ged

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#1 Re: campus training
October 08, 2019, 10:20:19 pm
I find that using the smaller holds trains something different to bigger moves on bigger holds. Do probably worth doing both.

I guess the usual rules apply. Don't overdo it, stop while still strong, and move onto something else after 6 weeks as you're probably plateauing

Coops_13

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#2 Re: campus training
October 08, 2019, 10:45:59 pm
1-3-4
1-2-4
1-3-5
1-4-5
1-2-5
1-4-6
1-3-6
1-5-6
1-4-7
1-5-7
1-3-7
1-5-8
1-5-9

That’s the progression a ukb-er (sorry can't remember who) posted a while ago - saved on my phone

You can also focus on the area of sequence that you're having problems with - i.e. are you struggling with the 1-5 or the 5-7...

mrjonathanr

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#3 Re: campus training
October 08, 2019, 10:49:42 pm
I am not going to comment on the politics of Jerry's videos (you'll see what I mean) but I do believe he knew his way round the board. There's 3 or 4 videos.

Will Hunt

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#4 Re: campus training
October 08, 2019, 11:01:47 pm
Basically, just say "watch this, baby" before you do it.

James Malloch

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#5 Re: campus training
October 09, 2019, 08:37:26 am
1-3-4
1-2-4
1-3-5
1-4-5
1-2-5
1-4-6
1-3-6
1-5-6
1-4-7
1-5-7
1-3-7
1-5-8
1-5-9

That’s the progression a ukb-er (sorry can't remember who) posted a while ago - saved on my phone

You can also focus on the area of sequence that you're having problems with - i.e. are you struggling with the 1-5 or the 5-7...

This was what I was given. The aim was to do three good sets of 6 reps (3 attempts leading with each arm).

Then once you can complete a full set on one thing (e.g. do 1-4-7 six times in a row, obviously having a short time break between each attempt) it is time to start attempting the next one.

Worked pretty well for me before I broke myself from doing too much...

Duma

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#6 Re: campus training
October 09, 2019, 09:28:37 am
Don't most campus boards have half rungs these days? In which case the obvious answer is 1-4.5-7

(though interestingly not for me, when I had working elbows I found this easier than 1-4-7)

dunnyg

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#7 Re: campus training
October 09, 2019, 09:44:33 am
Cheers for the progression list. Getting solid (6 reps) at the current stage sounds like a good idea. The progression list is what I was looking for, thanks!
Unfortunately the lab in Leeds doesn't have half rungs, depot might though and I spend half of my bouldering sessions there, so I can give that a whirl.

How much was too much James? My main aim in indoor climbing is not to get injured...

James Malloch

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#8 Re: campus training
October 09, 2019, 10:30:50 am


How much was too much James? My main aim in indoor climbing is not to get injured...

For me it was just being a bit stupid really. I found that with campusing I didn’t need too much rest and I started from a very low benchmark (1-2-4 or something) so I progressed quickly.

Because I didn’t need much rest I’d end up having a big board session and then try hard on the campus board. I ended up on it 3 times a week - always progressing but then my wrist got injured from doing a lot of deep locks and the forces involved.

It also massively increased my one arm hang strength. It went from about -10kg to being able to body weight hang in quite a short space of time. This meant I started doing a bit of one arm hangs as well as board sessions and campusing.

Because none of it ever felt desperate I thought I could carry on doing it all at once 2-3 times a week, but this just ruined me in reality...

So basically I got strong but massively over trained.

SA Chris

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#9 Re: campus training
October 09, 2019, 10:36:13 am
1-3-4
1-2-4
1-3-5
1-4-5
1-2-5
1-4-6
1-3-6
1-5-6
1-4-7
1-5-7
1-3-7
1-5-8
1-5-9

That’s the progression a ukb-er (sorry can't remember who) posted a while ago - saved on my phone

You can also focus on the area of sequence that you're having problems with - i.e. are you struggling with the 1-5 or the 5-7...

a) hope this is on big rungs
b) highlights how shit I am at this sort of thing.

moose

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#10 Re: campus training
October 09, 2019, 10:49:15 am
1-3-4
1-2-4
1-3-5
1-4-5
1-2-5
1-4-6
1-3-6
1-5-6
1-4-7
1-5-7
1-3-7
1-5-8
1-5-9

That’s the progression a ukb-er (sorry can't remember who) posted a while ago - saved on my phone

You can also focus on the area of sequence that you're having problems with - i.e. are you struggling with the 1-5 or the 5-7...

a) hope this is on big rungs
b) highlights how shit I am at this sort of thing.

Shit is a relative term, you're still probaby better than me; last time I checked, my peak campus form was 1-2-3 or 1-2-2, depending on which arm I led with.....

SA Chris

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#11 Re: campus training
October 09, 2019, 11:29:21 am
I can ladder up and down singly on the biggest rungs, or up on the next smaller ones, but hopeless on bigger moves. I can do 1-3 on big rungs for example, but then can't get above 3 with the other arm.

Bradders

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#12 Re: campus training
October 09, 2019, 02:13:50 pm
It also massively increased my one arm hang strength. It went from about -10kg to being able to body weight hang in quite a short space of time. This meant I started doing a bit of one arm hangs as well as board sessions and campusing.

This is really interesting James, thanks for posting. Same for the progression list Coops.

I've just started adding in a once-a-week campus session, and had a look on the Crimpd app to see what Lettuce had to say. Their "advanced" work out aimed at boulderers operating at 7B and above includes multiple sets of 1-4-7, etc. Now I've done a few 7C+s this year with a PB of 1-4-5.5 and having almost never done any dedicated campussing before, so either their data is wrong or I'm making up for it in other areas and have a big weakness to address!

As a sideline I'd been thinking it might help with one arm hang and pull up strength, so great to hear it's worked for someone else.

Dunny -   this thread from a few months ago has some interesting insights you might find useful. As it happens I dug it out the other day and am currently eating my previous words:

Are to take from this that campus boards are actually an anachronistic waste of space in most walls then?

Yeah, they're mainly just a fast-track way for punters (myself included) to injure themselves. The space in the Leeds Depot for example would be far better utilised with a load of fingerboards.

All this does still really highlight the need to be careful though.

I like the idea of measuring a campus session in terms of the number of "impacts". As in, how many times your fingers impact a rung, e.g. 1-3-5 & match is 3 impacts. Easily trackable and hopefully a good way to monitor when to stop!

Will Hunt

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#13 Re: campus training
October 09, 2019, 02:37:36 pm
So dunnyg is an 8A+ climber now? Shark is a 7Cish climber? The world is on its head.

I'd like to further explore the idea that the Lab's campus rung spacing is non-regulatory.

Dunny's fall from grace would be only surpassed by that of Ben's. As I learned last night, he was seen in the back room of the Depot using the BM fingerboard.

"Fucking hell, did you see that? I just did a neat pull up on the 45's"
"Ben, one of your hands was on the 35 degree sloper"




Sorry, Ben   :lol:

dunnyg

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#14 Re: campus training
October 09, 2019, 02:49:58 pm
Cheers for the link bradders, will digest it in the near future.

I just sent the lab a fb message, so the moment of truth is approaching...

Until then I will take the 8A+ tick.

I think "impacts" sounds good too, I don't want to do that many moves on the campus board in a session, so only really interested in max efforts, as a way to minimize injury and maximize "gainz". I am thinking similar to a max hangs on a fingerboard, but different muscle groups. I could be misguided ( I definitely am in many ways).

James Malloch

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#15 Re: campus training
October 09, 2019, 03:03:19 pm


I'd like to further explore the idea that the Lab's campus rung spacing is non-regulatory.



Sorry, Ben   :lol:

I don’t remember the spacing at the lab, but I remember doing 1-4-6 first time (Lab insight?) after not campusing for quite some time. But I also seem to remember the rungs were on upside down?  :shrug:

James Malloch

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#16 Re: campus training
October 09, 2019, 03:04:41 pm
Also as an aside, I found some campusing as part of a warm up made for a great board session. Seemed to turn the power on without wasting too much energy. Got you super springy.

Yet another reason why i got broken though, probably...

cheque

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#17 Re: campus training
October 09, 2019, 03:48:25 pm
So dunnyg is an 8A+ climber now? Shark is a 7Cish climber? The world is on its head.

Time for this classic quote:

1-4-7 is neither 7c+ or 7c what utter nonsense. grading campus moves, idiots. i won't be popping round woz, but you probably suspected that already.
 
Come on Lee, its not like he's claiming 8c is it 
what so that makes it ok to grade campus moves? i know gradings completely arbitrary but come on. i walked up a slight incline before, 2c i thought. then i carried a rather large bag up, my problem is whether to claim a bigger grade or just say i walked up the hill with a bag...
why can't people just say i did 1-4-7 instead of adjusting for a scorecard? beggars belief

Coops_13

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#18 Re: campus training
October 09, 2019, 04:50:11 pm
Definitely recommend checking the rung spacing. There's one wall in Denver that is insanely close...

dunnyg

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#19 Re: campus training
October 09, 2019, 04:52:30 pm
I can see a downgrade a-coming.

Bradders

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#20 Re: campus training
October 09, 2019, 05:29:18 pm
The Leeds Depot does have half rungs if you need a change.

mrjonathanr

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#21 Re: campus training
October 09, 2019, 06:46:41 pm

 

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