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B grades the Mellow lot seem to be using (Read 11534 times)

Bradders

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B grades the Mellow lot seem to be using
October 06, 2019, 07:46:13 pm
What's with the B grades the Mellow lot seem to be using lately?

Duma

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His latest ig story shows it, seems pointless unless everything under 8A is easy to you.

Will Hunt

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From his Instagram story:

Quote
B0 = v0 - v2
B1 = v3 - v4
B2 = v5 - v6
B3 = v7 - v8
B4 = v9 - v10
B5 = v11 - v12 easy
B6 = v12 hard - v13
B7 = v13 hard - v14
B8 = v14 hard - v15
B9 = v16
B10 = v17

incase you've been wondering this is the new simplified bouldering scale

thoughts?


Looks like pure, unadulterated dick-waving bollocks to me.

abarro81

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It seems that some of my old "20 most pressing questions" are still relevant...
Are the new generation of climbers more stupid or just more annoying than the previous generations?

Sasquatch

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indeed.  We're so strong that we can't tell the difference at lower grades, but they must be grouped so the number doesn't get too high.

If you think about how natural it is for things to get all out of wack around v10, or 8a, then can you imagine what it will take to create a v18/b11?

jwi

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From his Instagram story:

Quote
B0 = v0 - v2
B1 = v3 - v4
B2 = v5 - v6
B3 = v7 - v8
B4 = v9 - v10
B5 = v11 - v12 easy
B6 = v12 hard - v13
B7 = v13 hard - v14
B8 = v14 hard - v15
B9 = v16
B10 = v17

incase you've been wondering this is the new simplified bouldering scale

thoughts?


Looks like pure, unadulterated dick-waving bollocks to me.

Hahaha... a new scale that is isometrically isomorph to the old one, but less useful. That takes a special kind of stupid!

Why not use the Japanese scale if they want smaller numbers and broader bands. 1 dan = 7a+ or b, 2 dan 7b+ or c, 3dan 7c+ or 8a 4dan = 8a+ or b, 5dan = 8b or b+, 6dan = 8c or c+, 7dan 9a or a+ etc

Or why not the Toyota scale: a to f. a is from 2a to 4c or so, ... e is 7b to 8a+ approximately (from memory)  f is 8b to ≈ 9a+.

Wood FT

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It seems that some of my old "20 most pressing questions" are still relevant...
Are the new generation of climbers more stupid or just more annoying than the previous generations?

time for a sequel

Fiend

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From his Instagram story:

Quote
B0 = v0 - v2
B1 = v3 - v4
B2 = v5 - v6
B3 = v7 - v8
B4 = v9 - v10
B5 = v11 - v12 easy
B6 = v12 hard - v13
B7 = v13 hard - v14
B8 = v14 hard - v15
B9 = v16
B10 = v17

incase you've been wondering this is the new simplified bouldering scale

thoughts?


Looks like pure, unadulterated dick-waving bollocks to me.

 :agree: what a bunch of utter pointlessly elitist chodes. Presumably after a brief period of entirely justified mockery, this moronic idea will die a swift death.

Will Hunt

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I did send a message asking "what's the point" but haven't heard anything back yet  :tumble:

andy popp

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Ignoring all the grading silliness, Livin' Large is a beautiful looking thing. Anyone here seen it in the flesh?

petejh

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From his Instagram story:

Quote
B0 = v0 - v2
B1 = v3 - v4
B2 = v5 - v6
B3 = v7 - v8
B4 = v9 - v10
B5 = v11 - v12 easy
B6 = v12 hard - v13
B7 = v13 hard - v14
B8 = v14 hard - v15
B9 = v16
B10 = v17

incase you've been wondering this is the new simplified bouldering scale

thoughts?


Looks like pure, unadulterated dick-waving bollocks to me.

Hahaha... a new scale that is isometrically isomorph to the old one, but less useful. That takes a special kind of stupid!

Why not use the Japanese scale if they want smaller numbers and broader bands. 1 dan = 7a+ or b, 2 dan 7b+ or c, 3dan 7c+ or 8a 4dan = 8a+ or b, 5dan = 8b or b+, 6dan = 8c or c+, 7dan 9a or a+ etc

Or why not the Toyota scale: a to f. a is from 2a to 4c or so, ... e is 7b to 8a+ approximately (from memory)  f is 8b to ≈ 9a+.

Can someone more intelligent than me (i.e. everyone) explain why this is such a terrible idea? We're predisposed to want to place things into patterns, patterns of base 10 makes sense for lots of reasons, simplicity being a big one - the Romans and the Metric system for e.g.
I think that if they'd started at V1-V2 and suggested two font grades per one B grade all the way to B10 with 10 being a hypothetical max like on a loudspeaker, instead of condensing at v11 then it would have been a half decent suggestion.
Lower font grades condensed two for one shouldn't bother as many people now that every other 6 year-old is flashing V5 in the gym?

abarro81

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Have you noticed how it condenses grades that they find easy but not ones they find hard... It's a self congratulatory circle jerk

petejh

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I think that if they'd started at V1-V2 and suggested two font grades per one B grade all the way to B10 with 10 being a hypothetical max like on a loudspeaker, instead of condensing at v11 then it would have been a half decent suggestion.


?

Will Hunt

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And when somebody climbs something harder than the hypothetical maximum B10? It'll be like that fucking scene from Spinal Tap. What problem is it that they're trying to solve. The idiocy of it is crushing.

I can show you plenty of people who struggle like fuck on V0s and V1s.

Duma

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Ignoring all the grading silliness, Livin' Large is a beautiful looking thing. Anyone here seen it in the flesh?
I've been to marvel. It's a bit of a trek, and most stuff at champagne sector is both hard and high, so not sure many bother with the walk. Amazing line though, aretes are great and this is one of the best looking in Rocklands, which is full of amazing looking aretes...

petejh

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And when somebody climbs something harder than the hypothetical maximum B10? It'll be like that fucking scene from Spinal Tap. What problem is it that they're trying to solve. The idiocy of it is crushing.

I can show you plenty of people who struggle like fuck on V0s and V1s.

That would be V20 - current hardest boulder grade, Burden of Dreams, proposed at V17. It should give us plenty of breathing space before this:



edit - I seriously doubt that people struggling like fuck on V0s care what letter and number combo they're on.

Will Hunt

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And when somebody climbs something harder than the hypothetical maximum B10? It'll be like that fucking scene from Spinal Tap. What problem is it that they're trying to solve. The idiocy of it is crushing.

I can show you plenty of people who struggle like fuck on V0s and V1s.


edit - I seriously doubt that people struggling like fuck on V0s care what letter and number combo they're on.

Wrong again.

jwi

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And when somebody climbs something harder than the hypothetical maximum B10? It'll be like that fucking scene from Spinal Tap. What problem is it that they're trying to solve. The idiocy of it is crushing.

I can show you plenty of people who struggle like fuck on V0s and V1s.


edit - I seriously doubt that people struggling like fuck on V0s care what letter and number combo they're on.

Wrong again.

I already thought V grades was silly elitist bullshit to start with. There are thousands of climbers going to Fontainebleau who never climb harder than 5c, and grades 2+ to 5c seems to make exactly as much of a sense as grades 6a - 7b. These are all already ungraded “easy” on the V scale. Ridiculous.

Also:

A proper grading scale for climbing should work like this:

A well rounded climber at any level should be able to
* Siege climbs at maxgrade + 0.5, with extreme luck and a well timed top shape on their side
* Do climbs at maxgrade within 10 sessions
* Consistently to climbs at maxgrade – 1 in a few days
* Consistently do climbs at maxgrade – 2 in a day
* Sometimes flash climbs at maxgrade – 3

Regardless of what the maxgrade is.

If I look at the bollocksscale above, many climbers with a max grade of Bollocks 2 can flash more than half of the Bollocks 1-problems, whereas no one with a max grade of Bollocks 10 can flash more than half of the Bollocks 9-problems. Thus the bollocksscale suffer from being non-linear. The Font scale does not.
« Last Edit: October 08, 2019, 07:41:49 am by jwi »

Fiend

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Good split but the original idea should have started and stayed in the Log Pile. Pete stop being an elitist chode.

Will Hunt

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It's comforting to know that being really good at rock climbing is not mutually exclusive with being as thick as mince.

Yossarian

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I’d pay money to hear Shawn Raboutou answer questions from a bunch of irate kids about why he thinks it’s a good idea for all their projects to be regraded B0.1-0.3...

andy_e

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We're all circumventing the pachyderm chambered by walls here... there already is a bollocks B-grade system that means nothing, and it's ours, so we should be vehemently defending it.

SA Chris

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who are the Mellow lot?

shark

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who are the Mellow lot?

Quote
Welcome to Mellow, a collection of media made for the climber, by the climber. Our goal is simple: to share pure motivation.

For starters, we’ll be posting several videos to our YouTube channel every week. Mondays we will drop full-length edits, Wednesdays will feature raw, uncut footage, and Fridays will give you a taste of what to expect next week.

Keep your eyes peeled for our first edit, “Sleepwalker” which will go live tomorrow at 8AM(PST), it will not disappoint!
@shawnraboutou
@dawoods89
@giuliano_cameroni
@jwebxl
@_keenan_t
@kevintakashismith

Psyche is high!!!

HTH  ;D

SA Chris

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Ah WACOS*

*What a crock of shit.

 

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