[tomtom]

Blimey - Power Club is 500 weeks old....

M: Rubicon. Partially flooded - but Kudos wall was dry - like a little island poking through the water. Plus side was that there were no walkers / passers by to cheerily inform you that the top is up that way mate etc.. ha ha.. And it was nice to splash about in my wellies whilst resting.. Anyway - session on the Press. Last weeks progress wasn’t a fluke and I spent some time working body position etc.. deadpointed over and under the crimp - and caught it sweet one time only to not hold on. Typical. Next move is not a gimme either... and that crimp is surprisingly sharp... Flew to Amsterdam that evening for a meeting..

Tu: & We: Utrecht. Nice meeting - highlight was a tour of the city in between the three courses of a meal (courses at different places) - great idea.

Th: Out with Dolly. Headed to Western Grit. Decent grit connies. Wind, 9 degrees - dry enough... Went to Ramshaw and Baldstones and got taught a lesson :D Lust of Life: Fail (powerful moves!!) Force 9: Tickled the flake then decided to leave the problem before pebbles ate my hand. Clever Skin: Great problem: Managed the first two moves :D Found a vid of JB on it and whilst he normally makes things look super smooth he sketched up it! So maybe it is trickier than we thought...

Sa: Cheeky morning hit to Wilton 2. Warmed up on Pigs on the Hoof (great traverse) and then got stuck into the sit of Purple feel. Gnarly yet delicate 7B Arete.. got to previous high point/best point then started hurting.

[monkoffunk]

Two weeks for me!

STG - Heal finger. Get boulder strong
Lose weight back 74kg.
MTG - Boulder projects.
LTG - 7C

M - Tweaked finger over weekend trying to get back into it after illness. Raining so went to Bridport. Very careful session, slow warm up with finger tapped straight. 1 hour on the 40 degree (juggy) board. Long rests between every problem, every move onto right hand totally controlled and open handed. Switched to peg board before got tired, never really rated it but seems fairly finger safe. Was super weak on it, so maybe I should do more, certainly until finger better.

T - Long day, rest. Finger feels good thankfully. No tenderness reassuringly. Will rest tomorrow too.

W - Or not. Back in Dorchester early enough to have another careful session at Bridport. All on jugs in control.

T - Window of opportunity for Portland and finger felt fine. Managed Fontanel, a 7A at Neddyfields in between rain showers. Fingery but controlled. Can’t be that bad.

F - Rest I think

S - nothing I remember

S - 5 sets of 5 pull-ups + 20kg

M - Bridport. Stronger on the board. Did a problem had failed moves before. Not hard though, but getting back into it.

T - Long day.

W - Evening Portland session at new Cuttings. Find everything with a 7 in it seemingly impossible there. Did Phat Slapper 6C+ which was great, but failed everything else. Think I need to be pulling on crimps I have so far discounted as non holds...

T - Rest

F - Day off. Boulder shack Southampton. Lots of comp problems. Tried hard, good session. Felt like a bit of snap!

S - Long day work.
S - Long day work.

Feel like getting a bit of snap back, could be eating better. Finger seems pretty mild and not limiting. Not getting out much mostly due to weather. Shall see what happens next week.

[tomtom]

It has been a largely shite set of weather recently...

[shark]

Blimey - Power Club is 500 weeks old....

10.12-13 Average 153.0 up 0.7lbs

M.

T. Sacked off going to Malham as pic of the Oak on Monday showed it streaming. AM Foundry to jump around on a board. Seemed like everyone was there. Repeated 31 to holding 30 on board and got the horn off hourglass foothold. Tried moves into 31. Slightly off the pace on campus board compared to last week. Worked a bit more on powerful Wave problems Keith C showed me last time
Eve Weighted deadhangs on latest and last iteration of ergo edge then gaston training on the board.
Felt hungry - ate lots

W Felt wiped and hungry. Off early to York to deposit Tom then did Systems Board AeroCap 20/10s in afternoon on way back - light session - needed to be

T

F Malham. Terrible weather overnight in Sheffield. Ben, Basher and Steve bailed. Jerome optimistic so we went. Some flooded fields on way up. Crag and Oak in a dreadful condition. 12 degrees but oddly warm but fortunately didn’t condense. Jerome keen for Overnite. Felt glum. Dearth of options so joined him. Not been on Overnite since I redpointed it 12 years ago. Was like catching up with an old friend  Moves came together quickly. Tried hard and got close to doing the 7B start.

S Ummed and Ahhhed whether to have a rest day. As heavy rain forecast for Sunday went to Tor. 12 degrees but strangely warm again Rammed atTor. Bad parking on the bend.  No one else on Bens surprisingly but got to share the cave with Jack Pal who is a positive and encouraging presence. Other people’s behaviour less so.  Warmed up on THFML and did kick move on Bens straight off. Go1 straight through to knee-bar and did the kick move but my trailing foot dabbed the mat FUCK.  Go 2 Got all the way through into THFML without trauma and then had a foot slip - managed to get it back in but took something out of me - did the lunge and got the high edge not in the best place and held it but feet came off then rest of me Go 3 Tired. Did it from start and connected with niche but came off. After that found I was too tired to get through the start but managed a decent link from kneebar to swinging of high edge again. Considering I thought I would be wasted from Malham was amazed what I managed

S Weather not as bad as forecast. Foundry campus board and worked board project and dabbled on Wave. Systems board 4x gaston sequence then 20/10’s timing 2 secs per move for 220 moves

Pretty full on week. Currently feel in great shape except for low level persistent golfers elbow. Retraced 0.7lbs this week after 7 weeks of gradual loss of 5.8lbs. Seems like body rebels at 10.11 level and I get super hungry. No one has commented on me looking gaunt this time round which I’m taking as a good indicator.

Beginning to wonder whether Oak is going to dry before I go away. I’ve got 3/4 weeks before Red River Gorge trip. Pencilled in Malham for Fri subject to conditions reports. If not maybe I’ll get Bens as a consolation prize and carry some Oaky hope into next year based on my performance on the 27th.

Got approached to go back into recruitment come December. Arrangement is fairly flexible so don’t think it will get in the way too much and will force me to train indoors more which is probably what I need rather than what I like.

[cheque]

Rehab Diaries Week Fifty-nine

STG- Sub-HVS *** Peak Trad list (6/27 remain), onsight HVS by end of 2019.

M-T- Rest. Tired all week from running at the weekend! It was obviously a total shock to the system which, I’ve learnt, is how you make the big gains in fitness (from a rehab perspective at least) so not bothered that it stopped me doing anything all week as the nights have drawn in now.

Recently I’ve been feeling some golfer’s-type elbow pain when I climb  which I think was caused by doing a month where I focussed on pull-ups while my right shoulder was still sore (shoulder fine now) from inadvertently hanging from it on one of my comical spankings. I did a wrist stability exercise twisting it while tensioning it with a theraband attached to my pull-up bar this week (on top of my usual stretches)  to try and nip it in the bud.

F- Foundry autobelays. I’ve decided to be more structured in my indoor sessions this winter- going to consciously alternate “Bouldering On A Rope” sessions with mileage/ endurance ones. Ideally the latter will mainly be on lead but that depends on partners so we’ll see. I’m going to use the weight belt for everything and consciously make every session measurably harder than the last too.

This was the first BOAR sesh. After a warmup doing three routes I onsighted last week I tried hard ones. After three attempts at a 6c, getting to the same place each go I got stuck into attempting a 7a with two student lads. The rotation of the three of us not only helped refine beta it was like timed rests so I made progress each go despite being gradually more burnt. Had to ditch the weight belt after a few tries, probably had 6 goes in total. Felt like great training as it was harder climbing than I’ve done for months. I need to improve my pulmonary fitness though- I was very conscious of being out of breath immediately after burns.

Pretty spent after this so climbed some slabs in the main room- repeated a 6c, then tried a 6c+ which used almost all the reserves I had. Really had to fight on the warmdown routes, even the final 4+.

Very little elbow pain which is good!

S- Rest.

S- In Chester, race support for GF’s second marathon of the year. She trained hard aiming for a 3:45 time but last Sunday tweaked her hamstring  . I was very nervous hoping it wouldn’t explode mid-race and tensely awaited the texts I was getting of her 10k splits. These got slightly slower each time but kept coming and she finished in 3:56:12- her slowest time yet but by turning on cruise control (my description not hers) she managed not to aggravate the tweak and still finish under 4 hours. So proud of her for this and very relieved.

Absolute maximum of 5 weekends of route climbing left this year I reckon and no possibility of weekday climbing- hopefully get some progress on my goals before time’s up!

[nai]

S/MTG: Moonboard 7A, Lime Font 7C.

M
AM - fishing club work party, dredged a lot of weed out of the pond. Knackering.
PM - Max Hangs, scap shrugs, core - too tired from AM I think, pretty poor

T - Moonboard session 2.
Wave warmup.
Did Speed, benchmark 6B+ in a few attempts, having tried it at the end of the previous session
Tried two other 6B+s, Ascending and Shattered Elbow, but couldn't do the last move on either.  Not sure I did the top move, both big slaps with feet in awkward positions, on either in isolation even.
Made it to the last move of Bigmoves-02, 6C, a number of times but couldn't stick the final hold.
Was powering down by now so reduced the grade and managed to get Easy Jumpin', 6B, in 3 attempts.

HI core and some leg work, trying to strengthen hamstrings, would rather not tear them again. Wished I'd managed to find an automatic within budget on the way home.

W - Quads in pieces, realised I'd done one-leg (assisted) squats in awful form.  Nowt

Th - 17km mtb ride. Too cold to train afterwards. Quads felt better though.

Fr - warmed up at home then headed to the Tor which wasn't mint as reported. Spent five minutes trying to work out if anything I was interested in was completely dry and decided it wasn't.
Sulked away home for board session which was fun and productive, made up four decent projects.

TRX IYT
10ish BWish Deadlifts

Sat - AnCappy 5x3 experiment on five different problems. Tried hard, powered through, powered out, power screamed. Have no real need to do this stuff at the moment but love these workouts.
Double Core

Sun rest

[cheque]

AM - fishing club work party, dredged a lot of weed out of the pond.

How much of this is slang that I don’t understand?!

realised I'd done one-leg (assisted) squats in awful form.

How do you do an assisted one-legged squat?

[nai]

Fishing: no slang, just using a huge rake to drag weed to the bank then other tools to remove it from the water.

Squat: use a TRX/rings/sling up high to assist. E.g:



Need to keep the shin vertical like he does, otherwise you employ too much quad and not targeting the correct muscles.

[cheque]

Thanks- that will be very useful for me I think. 

[Coops_13]

No posts (or climbing) since I injured my wrist. Hiking in Ecuador and wrist slowly improved - wrist tendonitis of some form from a volleyball game.

T: Apartment gym. 20 mins bike then stretching

T: DBC to test out wrist. Too early. Wrist sore and weak...

S: 4.5 mile hike up Green Mountain near Boulder, nice to get out. Temps getting good for the Front Range

Booked in doc next Fri to get referral for Physio. Hopefully will be something I can fix over the next few weeks...

[gollum]

M- Today is the day when I get back into machine mode after the last few weeks of chilling and taking it easy as I get stuff sorted for the new normality.
Engage!
Training programme is written and priorities determined. No more excuses, let’s see how much improvement we can get with this old body of mine.
Visit to Sheffield Depot. Start off with some weights . Bench press for triples up to 90k which feels good as not done it in a while. Then move on to some shoulder work with dumbbells at 17.5k for 5 reps with an open position and deep reps. Then some standing barbell presses at 4K for 5 res with a powerful move at the top of each rep. Finish off with some lateral raises with a hold at the top.
Move on to bouldering and work out way around the reds, getting most which we try fairly steadily. By the end my finger tips feel a bit sore so stop in order to fight another day.
Once I get home, crack on with a nice easy run around the (big) block, a very steady 10k.
Finish off with some core work in the evening. Viking ABC core workout, which is very running focused so also do some lever raises to be a bit more climbing specific.
Pleased with the day.

T - Pull day. Start off with rack pulls for doubles up to 170k which feels bloody great although trying really hard on second rep. Then weighted pull ups for 5x5 up to 25k added. Follow this with some supersets of prone row with a hold at the top and Aussie rows on bands. Finish with some light work on rows with the bands for 25 reps whilst locking the other arm on a lighter band, definitely feel the burn when I’m finished with that.
Trip to Sheffield Depot again as campus rungs are bigger and fingers are a bit sore. A bit off the game but not a million miles off and definitely feel like I will be back in the groove in a few weeks time.
Repeaters go pretty well with solid holds on all the grips, with Back 2 and 45 degrees feeling better than usual.
Do a few steady problems on the 30 board, which feel nice and not too painful for my finger tips.
Finish off with a few offset pull-ups, which feel tough and some core work, which doesn’t.

W - Gym early on. Working on biceps and triceps as I very rarely do. Go through a wide range of curls and presses mostly in the 5-8 rep range, some with powerful concentric and slow eccentric movements. Can definitely feel the blood flowing through my arms by the end. Finish off with some core work including planks and hollows. Day set up nicely.
Third day on a row at Sheffield Depot. Time to give a go to the new purples. Lots of success and certainly feel like they suit me with lots of flashes and a few more that take a bit of work. Feels like my climbing is coming back together again but know that one seaplane doesn’t make a summer.
Get back and then go for a steady run to relax. 10k nice and easy, start with Mrs B but then she disappears to do some speed work. A bit of exploring and looking for new routes.

T - Push day and back to pressing in the gym. Solid bench press for  triples up to 95k to start off. Decline bench for 6 reps up to 75k, grinding out on the last set. Then inclined for 5 at 15 degrees and 3 at 30 degrees both going up to 75k and pausing at the bottom of movement and just before the lockout. Solid work. Finish the inclines at 45 degrees for reverse pyramid starting at 4 reps at 60 and down to 12 at 45. Finish off with ultra slow flys as a drop set. Start at 10k for 10 reps and then do the same decreasing 1k each set down to zero. Chest is proper fluttering by the end as keeping the tension nice and tight. Good solid session.
Go to the Depot in Leeds in the afternoon. A cracking session just having a go at a bit of everything. Tick off the remaining reds, getting big close on a couple of yellows that I haven’t tried before and getting a couple of woods done and dusted including one through a roof which is just great fun and pure thuggery. By the time I get home I feel shot, although much better than I could expect to feel, perhaps. 

F - Sheffield Depot for training and weights. Great venue for training, maybe a bit far for every day use (think this week is atypical) but has everything I need except maybe a treadmill, but just superb and hopefully will play a role in getting me back to a reasonable standard again.
Start with campusing on big holds and trying to throw a bit of variety in.
Then move on to weights for a bit. Deadlifts up to 160, 165 moves but don’t quite get it going enough to complete the move. Then on to rack pulls. Doing doubles but finish on a single at 172.5 with a low bar set up, so chuffed with that. Shrugs and Roman chair whilst I am stripping the weight and to ensure back stays balanced. Then move on to a few off set pulls on the bars. Easy one bar apart, tricky two apart and desperate three apart, must try harder.
Have a break before moving on to repeaters. Solid enough session with weight added on four finger half crimp, 35 degree slopes, front 3 and front 2. Need to mix in some other deadhang regimes I reckon.
Finish with a steady circuits session. Do a couple of the easy ones and then work the moves, especially the last thirty feet on some of the harder ones.
Overall a cracking session that really did not disappoint. Think I am going to be alright at this retirement game.
Get home and do a bit of yoga an core work.
 
S - Woke up and thought maybe I deserve a rest and then thought bigger that I am off to pick things up and put them down.
Bench press doubles up to 95k which feels well within me. Then on to decline for the same range. Dumbbell shoulder presses with 20k weights for ten reps and then a drop set through 14k and 10k which feels distinctly like a battle by the end. Finish off with some lightweight lateral raises, front raises and reverse flys which are nice and slow and feeling the steady tension. Home in time for the rugby.

S - Chester Marathon. Set off steady running with a friend and the 4:15 pacers. Get to 15k and feeling good, so push on and catch the 4:00 pacers at just after halfway but then start going backwards with sore feet and legs. When 4:15 pacers catch back up with 3k to go, I think ‘dos this’ and keep with them right to the finish. Debut marathon and really a training run for other things, but happy enough with sub 4:15 as that was the original goal.

A really good week with lots of quality training, hoping it’s the start of good things.

[shark]

Rehab Diaries Week Fifty-nine

I’m going to use the weight belt for everything and consciously make every session measurably harder than the last too.

This was the first BOAR sesh. After a warmup doing three routes I onsighted last week I tried hard ones. After three attempts at a 6c, getting to the same place each go I got stuck into attempting a 7a with two student lads. The rotation of the three of us not only helped refine beta it was like timed rests so I made progress each go despite being gradually more burnt. Had to ditch the weight belt after a few tries, probably had 6 goes in total.

Don’t understand the logic of using a weight belt for everything. Isn’t it best just to wear it to increase load on moves you can do rather than ones you are still working?

[duncan]

Nai: what’s the point of keeping the shin vertical and what’s so bad about using the Quads?

Coops: you could do hip flexibility, posterior chain strength, one arm hangs with a counterbalance or fingerboard pick-ups (see below). 

Gollum, 4.15 is not shabby not even taking to account what you were doing in the week. Deadlifts two days before counts as tapering?! Tom Randall should be taking advice from you.

STG: continue shoulder rehab. Try some vertical 7as.
MTG: 7b+ by the end of the year.
LTG: tbc

M - 7km jog.
T - Pick-ups, 18mm edge, L hand: up to 35kg x 10 seconds, 37.5kg x 3 seconds.
W - Hip and knee strength: squats, pistols
T - Pick-ups, as above.
F - 7km slow jog. Shoulder strength: planks, side planks, IsYsTs (left arm only)
S - Shoulder strength: planks, side planks, IsYsTs. Hip and knee strength.
S - 7km slow jog. Pick-ups, to 37.5kg x 10 seconds, 40kg x 3 seconds.

No big 500 achievements but sticking to the daily exercise for a year project (I’m counting stretching, otherwise I’d be 7 days down). Right elbow soreness turned out to be a bit more serious than anticipated last week. Not sure if this is a bruise from whacking it on a sharp bit of Portland or a touch of tennis elbow but, either way, it felt like it needed a bit of rest. Left shoulder continues to be a bit creaky so, combined with a big work deadline (on a Sunday?!), I binned climbing this week.

A PB on the fingerboard pickups: I was lifting 30kg at the start of the year. Pick-ups are less transferable to climbing than hanging but they still seem to help and I’ve noticed a definite improvement in finger-strength on rock. Big advantage, as I think I’ve said before, is they allow me to continue doing something for my fingers even when one arm is out of action.

Plan: easy gently back into climbing, book winter breaks.

[Nibile]

Nai: what’s the point of keeping the shin vertical and what’s so bad about using the Quads?

Keeping shins vertical is one of the cues used to mark the different stance and movement for hip hinge versus squat, as the first targets (more) the posterior chain while the latter the quads.
There's nothing bad in using the quads, except that - from what I recall - Nai wanted to strengthen his hamstrings.

[shark]

A PB on the fingerboard pickups: I was lifting 30kg at the start of the year. Pick-ups are less transferable to climbing than hanging but they still seem to help and I’ve noticed a definite improvement in finger-strength on rock. Big advantage, as I think I’ve said before, is they allow me to continue doing something for my fingers even when one arm is out of action.

Would one arm standing deadhangs be better instead? Its something I do to get re-recruited at Malham using low edges. Super controllable - you can apply gradually greater load to suit or bear down straight away. Doing it training you can stand on bathroom scales to monitor load (with decent eyesight)

[nai]

Nai: what’s the point of keeping the shin vertical and what’s so bad about using the Quads?

The more the shin/knee points forward the less engagement you get in glute/hamstring and more quad you use. Nothing bad about using quads but to work the whole chain better to get the form right.  Also not good for the knees I believe, more weight through them and less through hip? 
Good idea to try squatting facing a wall to help get form right, comedy to start with.

[galpinos]

LTGs: F7C, E5, F8a
Winter Goals: Multiple F7Bs, a 7B+, get down to 80kg
Currently 85kg

M – AeroCap @ -36kg, Max Hangs @ +26kg
T – Rest
W – AeroCap @ -36kg, Max Hangs @ +26kg
T – Bouldering at Depot, fingery problems on the 30. Managed to link 4 moves on the 7A proj multiple times, managed move 4 then 5 but can't hold the last red hold well enough to move off it. Good progress though.
F – AeroCap @ -36kg, Max Hangs @ +26kg
S – Rest
S – Rest

Fair bit of fingerboard but anniversary and going to my mum's at the weekend to help post op meant wall sessions/outdoors were tricky. Upped the max hangs weight and dropped aero cap assistance after re test last weekend. Felt a lot harder on the max hangs but still managing so probably about the right intensity. Managed 4 days cycling to work though (nearly 60 miles) so feeling a bit fitter which is nice. Need to keep it up though.......

[Yossarian]

M - Wall. Good board session. Got to final hold on longest project 4x, but couldn’t quite hold the swing. Some progress on a new project too before split finger. Then 45 mins or so pottering on the slab.
T - Pull-ups to +26kg and assisted 1 arms, + some KB shoulder press.
W - Yoga snd stretching and shoulder rehab
T - Wall. Was aiming to finish off projects on board, but wasn’t quite firing on all cylinders. Persevered for a while, then spent some time working harder problems downstairs.
F - Ditto Tuesday, inc 5x5 +26 kg. Have been neglecting chest so tried some ring press-ups. Fuck me. Something else to work on over the winter.]
S - Wall. Similar to Thursday. Not feeling quite full power on board, so persevered for a bit, and then tried some other stuff. Had a go at new circuit board set, but fingers felt a bit tweaky and TBH am less and less enthused by constricted sideways shuffling. Did 6x 2min foot-on campus - aiming to do this more regularly while there’s still some hope of getting out on south coast sport routes.

Aims for remainder of the year:
Consolidate at 7b/+ (if weather allows) with as rapid as poss RPs of Road Rage, Empire Direct, Chulilla, Insatiable, Avenging the Halsewell, Billy Winspit, etc.
5x 7A (or above) in Peak / Churnet
Another E3
Weight down to 82-85kg (currently 87.4kg)

[cheque]

Don’t understand the logic of using a weight belt for everything. Isn’t it best just to wear it to increase load on moves you can do rather than ones you are still working?

It's just for conditioning- I want climbing with a trad rack on to feel like business as usual rather than "bloody hell it feels hard with this on". Now I can't boulder and don't (currently) have any psyche for redpointing it doesn't make any sense to train for climbing with no added weight.

It is a bit of a simplistic approach now you mention it though- I think I'm still in a bit of a "get back what I lost and worry about improving down the line" mindset that I need to be looking at transitioning out of. I'll rethink the weightbelt use in these BOAR sessions. 

[Nibile]

Power Club Milestone.

Mon - weights.
Tue - rest.
Wed - fingers, garage session. Not bad after a couple of weeks. Bar work, weights.
Thu - PE low +8 kg, 30" up and down x10. Rings I +8 kg in between sets. Weights.
Fri - rest.
Sat - weights, pull ups.
Sun - rest.

[highrepute]

Mon
 Weighted hangs. struggled on the 20kg set; tired or conditions? did a little campusing and one arm hangs. felt like I might be getting a little better on one arm. however, bruised ribs very sore afterwards, more of an intercostal muscle tear? actually seems like the same injury from when I decked in 2016, which has reoccured before, so clearly a reoccurring weakness.

Tue
   Ribs feeling very sore today

Wed
Didn't go to works as ribs very sore - resting for a bit...

Good session on Monday until I tried some one-arm hangs and really hurt my ribs. Ribs still sore but much less so. Will try climbing on Wednesday.

[Will Hunt]

T - Depot. Bit of board play but mostly climbing in the main area as that's where the craic was.

Th - Garage board. First session on it in over 2 years. Had fun. Was finishing off the editing of the Attermire section of the guide so there were fairly big rests between goes.

S - Took the sprog to the Glen where she did some climbing on the little rocks at the top of the crag. She had her first YYFY moment.
https://www.instagram.com/p/B3QMUqPjcAr/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link
Put my shoes on and did some easy things. Conditions felt toss so wasn't too upset to have not gone to Brimham.

S - Went to the Lab with sprog and wife (and met Sean and Anna there). Actually did a reasonable amount of climbing since Daisy could supervise the little'un. Sprog's climbing ability improves apace - she seems to have become stronger and actually did something that resembled a rockover off a gaston at the end, which she immediately downclimbed from despite encouragement to keep going up. Then swimming. Parents more tired than toddler by the end of the day.

[36chambers]

It's been well over a year since I touched my training diary so I thought I'd hop on here for a bit to get the ball rolling.

Shitter, I've just realised I've been nursing 3 finger injuries for 4 months now! Thankfully 80% there now.

Goals: get some snap back
Weight: my heaviest

M:
T: indoors. Rubbish session, felt tweaky af.
W:
T: one arm lock offs. felt weak.
F:
S: Brimham. First grit of the season. Looking after a friend's dog. It vomited in the car. Quick szech. Pissed around at Joker's Wall and Happy Days. Pulled my lower back. Nice dog, but no longer want one anytime soon.
S: Cliff. Bad back so campused and one armed things. Drizzle lead us under crusis, nothing to do but get someone to push me into the positions on Cherry Falls, which were all surprisingly easy to hold. Miles off any of the moves though... Fingers felt okay.
 
Uphill from here.

[andy_e]

Good effort for getting out on Sunday beast! Fortune favours the risky.

[36chambers]

Good effort for getting out on Sunday beast! Fortune favours the risky.

dry, prime, and deserted from 1:00-4:00 pm. Forgot to mention I eyed up a futuristic eliminate "Snappy Roof Campus", campus from the starting jug to the first break (skipping the snappy flake thing). 1-5ish campus but steeper and to a blind hold! Looks glorious.

[andy_e]

That's the future right there.

[spidermonkey09]

It's been well over a year since I touched my training diary so I thought I'd hop on here for a bit to get the ball rolling.

S: Cliff. Bad back so campused and one armed things. Drizzle lead us under crusis, nothing to do but get someone to push me into the positions on Cherry Falls, which were all surprisingly easy to hold. Miles off any of the moves though...

Good to see you trying this. Keep at it, good one to try while Louise sorts out Crusis.

[spidermonkey09]

M - drove to France. Stopped somewhere near Brive. Van was OK, touch wood.
T - arrive in Rodellar.
W- straight down to business in the Piscineta with Al and Eddie. Paddled down in the boat: amazing approach. Fuck me, what a crag. Did the 6c+ and dogged the 7b+. Not fit on jugs. Fell off fixed rope ledge and somehow avoided breaking my ankles. 
T - mileage in Mascun. 3 7s, coco loco was the best route and also diametrically different in style to most at rodellar being a slab.
F- Piscineta. Did the 7b+. Started trying 7c+. Knee bars and jugs mostly. Amazing climbing, about 35 degrees overhanging.
S- intended to be a rest day but felt OK waking up so cracked on. Good day, made some progress.
S- rest day. Sat in the sun reading.

Rodellar is pretty easy living. Lots of sun, lots of jugs. Fitness is coming. Hopefully start trying some 8s later next week.

[duncan]

Would one arm standing deadhangs be better instead? Its something I do to get re-recruited at Malham using low edges. Super controllable - you can apply gradually greater load to suit or bear down straight away. Doing it training you can stand on bathroom scales to monitor load (with decent eyesight)

Thanks for the nudge. In lots of ways this would be much better than pick-ups (or two-arm hangs; climbing training exercises are usually better done unilaterally/asymmetrically as climbing movements are nearly always asymmetric [/theory]). It also engages shoulder stabilisers in a functional position when done with good form, which would be good for my long-term shoulder health.

Two reasons why I don’t yet do this very often. Firstly, I started doing pickups after my dislocation because my shoulder tolerated them even when it wasn’t happy hanging. This still sometimes applies but, if I’m honest, there is also a degree of inertia. I’m a beginner with fingerboarding so I’ve seen good progress even though it’s not ideal (something is infinitely better than nothing).

Secondly, I like the quantifiability and seeing small improvement is positive feedback as we all know. Measuring progress is much harder when you’re just ‘trying hard’, even when standing on scales (my bathroom scales quickly stop registering change so measuring force applied for a 7 seconds hold doesn’t work). The ideal set-up would be some kind of counterbalance pulley but it’s a bit awkward to leave in place as the fingerboard is in the front room. That could be this week’s project.

[teestub]

Sounds like you need to get yourself an exsurgo gstength, cheap at twice the price for that quantifiable progress!!

https://www.exsurgo.us/gshop/gstrength500

(This was on a training beta episode and it seemed somewhat over the top even for a number obsessed trainer https://www.trainingbeta.com/media/tyler-nelson-fingers/ )

[Bradders]

Sounds like you need to get yourself an exsurgo gstength, cheap at twice the price for that quantifiable progress!!

https://www.exsurgo.us/gshop/gstrength500

(This was on a training beta episode and it seemed somewhat over the top even for a number obsessed trainer https://www.trainingbeta.com/media/tyler-nelson-fingers/ )

I enjoyed reading the article about "the simplest finger training programme", which turned out to be easily the most complicated method I've heard of in a while

[duncan]

Nai: what’s the point of keeping the shin vertical and what’s so bad about using the Quads?

The more the shin/knee points forward the less engagement you get in glute/hamstring and more quad you use. Nothing bad about using quads but to work the whole chain better to get the form right.  Also not good for the knees I believe, more weight through them and less through hip? 
Good idea to try squatting facing a wall to help get form right, comedy to start with.

Thanks. Interesting. I'm not sure how much of this is science and how much is BroScience...!
I do disagree about more joint loading per se being bad, it assumes joints don't adapt in the same way as muscles or other connective tissue.

Sounds like you need to get yourself an exsurgo gstength, cheap at twice the price for that quantifiable progress!!

https://www.exsurgo.us/gshop/gstrength500

(This was on a training beta episode and it seemed somewhat over the top even for a number obsessed trainer https://www.trainingbeta.com/media/tyler-nelson-fingers/ )

I enjoyed reading the article about "the simplest finger training programme", which turned out to be easily the most complicated method I've heard of in a while

I have access to a force platform at work, perhaps I should set up a hangboard above it!

I nearly linked the "simplest training program". I think there are some interesting ideas in there, about promoting change in connective tissue for example, though I'm not sure about the execution.  One for a different thread perhaps?

[abarro81]

So the simplest fingerboard program is actually three different different sessions, all of which have to be programmed in a different way with the other stuff you're doing to get the best effect. And here I was thinking the simplest fingerboard program was "pull on, try really hard for somewhere from 5s to 30s, rest until you feel fresh(ish), repeat". Guess its makes too short an article though...

[Bradders]

I think you should grant Neely another interview Alex.

[monkoffunk]

I listened to about 30 mins of the podcast but failed to maintain enough concentration. Three exercises seem fairly simple when you get down to it, but I do wonder about the safety of hanging to failure on a finger board. Always though that was a good way to injure yourself.

[highrepute]

I listened to about 30 mins of the podcast but failed to maintain enough concentration. Three exercises seem fairly simple when you get down to it, but I do wonder about the safety of hanging to failure on a finger board. Always though that was a good way to injure yourself.

I always hang until failure. Aim for failure on my last rep of last set. I've never had a finger injury.

[abarro81]

I always hang until failure. Aim for failure on my last rep of last set. I've never had a finger injury.

I often hang until failure. I always have finger injuries.

(to caveat, I don't think it's due to my fingerboarding)

[highrepute]

M - drove to France. Stopped somewhere near Brive. Van was OK, touch wood.
T - arrive in Rodellar.
W- straight down to business in the Piscineta with Al and Eddie. Paddled down in the boat: amazing approach. Fuck me, what a crag. Did the 6c+ and dogged the 7b+. Not fit on jugs. Fell off fixed rope ledge and somehow avoided breaking my ankles. 
T - mileage in Mascun. 3 7s, coco loco was the best route and also diametrically different in style to most at rodellar being a slab.
F- Piscineta. Did the 7b+. Started trying 7c+. Knee bars and jugs mostly. Amazing climbing, about 35 degrees overhanging.
S- intended to be a rest day but felt OK waking up so cracked on. Good day, made some progress.
S- rest day. Sat in the sun reading.

Rodellar is pretty easy living. Lots of sun, lots of jugs. Fitness is coming. Hopefully start trying some 8s later next week.

Dreamy

[SA Chris]

M - nowt
T - nowt
W - wall session. Felt a bit jaded, need a change of scene.
T - nowt
F - first of winter proms series 3k race down at Aberdeen Beachfront. After varying levels of enthusiasm, 3 of us from work went down to do it. 1 mile warmup, £2 at car window, get race number, ready to run. Surprisingly popular for a weekday lunch, 129 entrants. Never raced such a short distance before, not even done a parkrun in nearly 3 years. managed 11:46, fastest SuperVet. Really enjoyed it, looking forward to trying to do rest of series and working on times over winter once ultra is done.
S - run home after dropping van at garage, 7 km.
S - Trampoline session with kids, fun but knackering. Back a bit sore afterwards, but feels OK now.

[36chambers]

It's been well over a year since I touched my training diary so I thought I'd hop on here for a bit to get the ball rolling.

S: Cliff. Bad back so campused and one armed things. Drizzle lead us under crusis, nothing to do but get someone to push me into the positions on Cherry Falls, which were all surprisingly easy to hold. Miles off any of the moves though...

Good to see you trying this. Keep at it, good one to try while Louise sorts out Crusis.

I was just messing about. I think I've achieved as much as I ever will on that problem.

[Nibile]

There's only ONE simplest fingerboarding program, and we all know which one it is.