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Re: 2 arm vs 1 arm hang discrepancy (Read 1527 times)

highrepute

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#75 Re: Re: 2 arm vs 1 arm hang discrepancy
October 14, 2019, 04:53:18 pm
backed up here to some extent by several of the v strong climbers having bilateral facilitation.

Could be that they train two arm hangs more than one arm.

some musings that might form an answer to bradders...

1.6 - 2.0 fairly standard
<1.6 your two arm scores are low
>2.0 your one arm scores are low

This might point towards where you should train or where you have a injury or underlying issue holding you back.

One might speculate that if you score <1.6 then you will get more benefit from training one arm because you have more unfulfilled potential there. And vise-versa. But I'm not convinced. Anyone want to speculate differently?

abarro81

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#76 Re: Re: 2 arm vs 1 arm hang discrepancy
October 14, 2019, 05:04:39 pm
Intuitively you'd imagine that the strongest spend proportionally more time training one arm than those weaker for logistical reasons... You could imagine something along the lines of the stronger lot being able to coordinate firing of more muscle fibres than the weaker, leading to better 2 arm scores, but I'm not sure if it necessarily tells us much about how to train. My instinct is that how to train will still be better determined by logistics - safety of hanging lots of weight off you, having to use holds way too big to do repeaters on one arm unless really strong, etc

Mr E S Capegoat

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#77 Re: Re: 2 arm vs 1 arm hang discrepancy
October 14, 2019, 06:00:12 pm
I’ve found the below equation useful when related to the observed data and activity -

Overall best grade achieved
Minus current best 1 arm hang time
Minus current best weighted load during hang
Equals current grade gett-able level.

Or

OBG - CB1 - CBW = CGGL

Ru

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#78 Re: Re: 2 arm vs 1 arm hang discrepancy
October 14, 2019, 06:52:55 pm
I've only skim read the thread, so apologies if someone else has suggested this, but for most people there is a large difference in how much the wrist is pronated when doing 1 and 2 handed hangs. Two handed, you are generally fully pronated, one handed most people are either neutral or possibly slightly supinated. I'm guessing (I don't know) that the finger flexor mechanics are significantly different for each.

 

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