Beta for Beltane @ Bus Stop Quarry for shorties, please?? (Read 3400 times)


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Yes, optimistic I know, but...

Stuck on two moves I couldn't do/reach even assisted from the bolts above:

B4-5: Move out right on two decent edges above a small overlap, kick right foot onto decent hold, grab good right hand sidepull flake. Paste left foot on something and come up 4 inches short of the sharp edge next to B5. There is some higher appalling micro-shit for my right foot in a useless position, using this I have to lean out too much and thus even further from next hold. Have tried going more direct using worse left hand sidepull on other side of B4, similar problems...

B6-top: Have got stood up on the slabby rib just left of B6, left foot on decent nubbin down and left, right foot on high good edge on the vague flakeline, left hand on tiny left-facing razor thing. In balance but 4 inches short of either reaching the top with my left hand out left, or using a tiny r-facing rugosity razor for my right to rock onto foothold. There's also a bad smear ripple for my right hand above but that's full stretch so can't really pull on it...



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I also found this really hard when I tried it last summer. Fell off at the top on RP but don't recall a magic bullet beyond crimping like fuck and wearing stiff boots!


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