[monkoffunk]

Well done Tommy!

[andy popp]

Isnt that the thing with power moves - they look and feel easy when you do them

No, you should still look like you're absolutely busting gut. I didn't understand what powerful (for me) moves were until I had a board at home and could try moves far beyond my strength limits, and lo and behold stronger and sometimes did some of them.

Watch just how hard Doylo and Danny (Danny on the 8B especially) are trying on some of the problems in this video:



In the meantime, big congratulations to Tommy!

[andy popp]

Isnt that the thing with power moves - they look and feel easy when you do them

No, you should still look like you're absolutely busting gut. I didn't understand what powerful (for me) moves were until I had a board at home and could try moves far beyond my strength limits, and lo and behold stronger and sometimes did some of them.

Watch just how hard Doylo and Danny (Danny on the 8B especially) are trying on some of the problems in this video:



In the meantime, big congratulations to Tommy!

Bollocks, so many missing words.

[spidermonkey09]

Just got home. Delighted to report that Tommy got the Oak third redpoint in less than perfect conditions. 

A real fight with a big foot slip on the traverse but reeled it in then his fingers numbed out due to sore skin on the last few moves.

Can I just add that I think without your reeling off the beta and well directed encouragement he might well have dropped it near the top. Great to watch!

[shark]

Can I just add that I think without your reeling off the beta and well directed encouragement he might well have dropped it near the top. Great to watch!

 

I thought at the point he started struggling that telling him each next move would be more helpful for him in extremis than shouting "Allez allez, go on, you can do it" etc

Overheard you saying you were going back Sunday. We plan to go too. Hoping to see you top Bat Route

[Will Hunt]

Hoping to see you top Bat Route

 

[spidermonkey09]

Hoping to see you top Bat Route

 

The cat is out of the bag....

Successfully redpointed it in the twilight yesterday evening. Beyond psyched; will save the self-indulgent redpoint review for PC as it will improve my Monday!

[Footwork]

Hoping to see you top Bat Route

 

The cat is out of the bag....

Successfully redpointed it in the twilight yesterday evening. Beyond psyched; will save the self-indulgent redpoint review for PC as it will improve my Monday!

yes mega effort!

[SA Chris]

Effort, nice on SM.

[andy_e]

Nice one 8c Jim. You're in for a hell of a heckling next depot session.

[shark]

The cat is out of the bag....

Successfully redpointed it in the twilight yesterday evening. Beyond psyched; will save the self-indulgent redpoint review for PC as it will improve my Monday!

 

That’s amazing news! You were robbed on the previous redpoint attempt slipping off the foothold (James said it used to be a big foothold but Al’s son Ben broke it)

Wish we’d hung around a little longer now.

Look forward to the write up

[nai]

Timely:

https://www.climbing.com/skills/when-hate-became-love-how-the-moonboard-helped-me-send-a-long-term-project-and-became-a-lifelong-obsession/

[shark]

Timely:

https://www.climbing.com/skills/when-hate-became-love-how-the-moonboard-helped-me-send-a-long-term-project-and-became-a-lifelong-obsession/

Superb article. Very persuasive. Can identify with a lot of that.

[Fiend]

I'd say that increased level of fixated obsession is exactly what Shark beeds 

[moose]

I'd say that increased level of fixated obsession is exactly what Shark beeds 

I reckon the end of the era is nigh, anyway: Tommy ticking the Oak will unleash an unholy strength in Shark.  Next week, the catwalk will sit, stunned, in silence; unable to believe the evidence of their senses. The sensitive will have to avert their eyes from the display of (literally) naked power as Shark bellows "my seed is STRONG!", pulls on, and crushes the Oak in almost contemptuous fashion. 

[SA Chris]

And lo, in week 497 of power club
.
.
.
.
Shark starts to train power.

What's been going on longer, his siege or powerclub?

[36chambers]

And lo, in week 497 of power club
.
.
.
.
Shark starts to train power.

What's been going on longer, his siege or powerclub?

The third line of the first post in the very first powerclub

Goals: Austrian Oak, 10000 8a nu points

It won't be long till Powerclub itself is old enough to tick the oak...

[tomtom]

I'd say that increased level of fixated obsession is exactly what Shark beeds 

I reckon the end of the era is nigh, anyway: Tommy ticking the Oak will unleash an unholy strength in Shark.  Next week, the catwalk will sit, stunned, in silence; unable to believe the evidence of their senses. The sensitive will have to avert their eyes from the display of (literally) naked power as Shark bellows "my seed is STRONG!", pulls on, and crushes the Oak in almost contemptuous fashion.

Next year...

[Nibile]

I'd say that increased level of fixated obsession is exactly what Shark beeds 

Brilliant Biswanger reference!

[Rob F]

Let me get this right:

So everyone's saying that if Shark has an eyeballs out session on Doylo's board complete with 180 BPM banging techno at high volume, and puts it on utube then he'll tick the oak (or at the very least grab the horn)???

[Doylo]

Welcome anytime Sharky. Bring yer wet wipes.

[Fiend]

I can supply that sort of techno if required...

[Mr E S Capegoat]

Fiend you royal bellend don’t suggest playing music at the crag! You too Doylo you bell. Have punters the pair of you. And that’s swearing! Oooof 🤣

[monkoffunk]

Not sure Doylo’s board counts as the crag...

[Fiend]

Let me get this right:

So everyone's saying that if Shark has an eyeballs out session on Doylo's board complete with 180 BPM banging techno at high volume, and puts it on utube then he'll tick the oak (or at the very least grab the horn)???

Well not quite my finding and not quite 180bpm, but if this doesn't get Shark ripping the horn off the crag, I don't know what will: