[SA Chris]

M - nothing - bits of board built.
T - nothing - bits of board
W - run after work. Beautiful run up one bank of Don and down the other, past swans, and rusting relics of past industry. hit the intended 15 km as i reached the van door, without any actual planning. Wall session after. only a couple of hours, but succeeded on a couple of probs I've been trying for a while.
T - nothing
F - nothing
S - run into town, 24km, met family and went to wall. Kyle did a few routes, seems to be really enjoying it, then bouldered for a bit. Scarpa Demo Day, so tried out Drago, Furia S, Furia Air, Instinct SR, quick shot on Instinct VS. Can't justify another pair right now, but like the Instinct VS, never tried them before, local shops are so shit.
S - walk with family, then what was supposed to be 10 ish km run turned into 15. Felt good running in cooler conditions for a change.

over 50 km in the week and feeling OK. Building up mileage, but doing 50km in a day still feels like a tall order.

[galpinos]

- and good to see you Galpinos (matching 2nd to last hold on that yellow is haard..)

I only had one go and was slightly surprised to find me at that hold so was hoping it was just shock and it would go ok when I tried it again.

I've joined Power Club for the gainz........ it'd better work!

[tomtom]

- and good to see you Galpinos (matching 2nd to last hold on that yellow is haard..)

I only had one go and was slightly surprised to find me at that hold so was hoping it was just shock and it would go ok when I tried it again.

I've joined Power Club for the gainz........ it'd better work!

Shark guarantees a price match money back BoGof deal with power club.

[petejh]

Cheers Pete. I don’t disagree with any of that.

You inspired me to do a power session today on my systems board based around your links starting with some big dynamic moves then the below routine four times (which I hope you approve of) finishing with some fast pull-ups.

I wouldn't classify that as training power it's more like a 12 move hybrid. With the workout you're doing in the vid I'd think it could be short PE or long PE (aeropow/ancap) depending on the rest time.

If you want to train the thing you've been avoiding your whole climbing life  then it's really very simple - just do 2-3 moves at your 100% limit on a steep board. It doesn't really matter if you complete all moves, in fact if you do it isn't hard enough. The training effect is in the trying 100% hard. It's a really simple thing to work, just requires going all-out for 2-3 moves.
Long rest time between goes - say 3 - 4 minutes, and just do a couple of sets of maybe 4-5 goes on a different sequence each set (but make the moves relative to your undercut-to-throw sequence if poss).
The good thing about training pure power is you finish fresh not fatigued, and should still be able to climb well on the days between training. It's just like getting a little tune-up of your muscles.

What you're doing is probably going to tire you out a bit more than is ideal given you've a project to send.

[highrepute]

Cheers Pete. I don’t disagree with any of that.

You inspired me to do a power session today on my systems board based around your links starting with some big dynamic moves then the below routine four times (which I hope you approve of) finishing with some fast pull-ups.

I wouldn't classify that as training power it's more like a 12 move hybrid. With the workout you're doing in the vid I'd think it could be short PE or long PE (aeropow/ancap) depending on the rest time.

If you want to train the thing you've been avoiding your whole climbing life  then it's really very simple - just do 2-3 moves at your 100% limit on a steep board. It doesn't really matter if you complete all moves, in fact if you do it isn't hard enough. The training effect is in the trying 100% hard. It's a really simple thing to work, just requires going all-out for 2-3 moves.
Long rest time between goes - say 3 - 4 minutes, and just do a couple of sets of maybe 4-5 goes on a different sequence each set (but make the moves relative to your undercut-to-throw sequence if poss).
The good thing about training pure power is you finish fresh not fatigued, and should still be able to climb well on the days between training. It's just like getting a little tune-up of your muscles.

What you're doing is probably going to tire you out a bit more than is ideal given you've a project to send.

I agree with Pete's suggestion here.

[teestub]

I agree with Pete's suggestion here.

Me too

[Will Hunt]

Not wanting to start a bandwagon but these guys know what they're talking about and they're right. Creating a replica of the Oak isn't going to cut it - you've been training consistently on The Oak itself and it's not given you the power you need. It sounds counter-intuitive but to do the Oak you need to be stronger than necessary to do the Oak! Get on a board with a fun scene of heckling and piss taking, try some brick hard moves that you can't do, and you'll piss it in the spring.

[tomtom]

Pete - thats really interesting.

So to train power (something I am interested in) its a case of a short number of hard move exerises/throws at which you try your hardest. Then stop.

A bit like weighted deadhangs - you don't go until you're trashed -- just do a few at your limit and stop?

[shark]

Ok - got it 

In defence the link Pete originally recommended didn’t outline this - the exercises were all longer duration - doing speed work when tired etc

[teestub]

To add something rather than just agreeing, IMO any replica move (especially of one you’re regularly not completing on the link) should be at least as hard, if not harder than the actual move. Having an easier replica move that you can do a few times in a row doesn’t seem like a good use of training time for me.

There’s a great Dave Mac blog about doing Practice when he got there and realised his board replica was actually harder then the problem.

[petejh]

Pete - thats really interesting.

So to train power (something I am interested in) its a case of a short number of hard move exerises/throws at which you try your hardest. Then stop.

A bit like weighted deadhangs - you don't go until you're trashed -- just do a few at your limit and stop?

Exactly that. 

I thought this was common knowledge?


Shark, I didn't outline this originally because I didn't think you're the type to ever want to try all-out hard on a steep board, so that routine I linked was a (sub-optimal imo) way to still train a bit of power without going all-out on a steep board. Short and max effort on a steep board is the best way to quick gains though, however dispiriting and hard it may seem.


scapegoat can't believe you're puntering people for sharing well-intentioned advice. Are you not getting enough attention? Need your balls tickling? Otherwise fuck off back to your own domain.

[tomtom]

Exactly that. 

I thought this was common knowledge?

Great 👍👍 I tend to switch off when it comes to the training terminology and just go and climb/boulder/wall as hard as I feel like/can. Sometimes do a dead hang session...

So really interesting that I can get a good top up on power by (presumably) warning up for 10-15 then going full tilt at some steep probs I can’t (just) do then stopping.

[abarro81]

To add something rather than just agreeing, IMO any replica move (especially of one you’re regularly not completing on the link) should be at least as hard, if not harder than the actual move. Having an easier replica move that you can do a few times in a row doesn’t seem like a good use of training time for me.

There’s a great Dave Mac blog about doing Practice when he got there and realised his board replica was actually harder then the problem.

I half agree and half don't with this... I think there's merit to using replica(ish) moves even in easier training, e.g. if I wanted to be really strong at big power moves off LH undercuts, I'd include big power moves off LH undercuts in my ancap training, even if the moves had to be easier than on the project. (For one thing, having a few particular styles of moves you want to include makes it easier to invent circuits than starting from nothing, and why the hell not include it). However, I would think of this more as generically improving my ability at that style of move, with likely usefullness in the longer-term, and like you would want to be doing harder moves in my boulder sessions...

[highrepute]

Exactly that. 

I thought this was common knowledge?

Great 👍👍 I tend to switch off when it comes to the training terminology and just go and climb/boulder/wall as hard as I feel like/can. Sometimes do a dead hang session...

So really interesting that I can get a good top up on power by (presumably) warning up for 10-15 then going full tilt at some steep probs I can’t (just) do then stopping.

My only training is doing that once a week, twice if I'm lucky, and seem to be still making gains.

[teestub]

I half agree and half don't with this... I think there's merit to using replica(ish) moves even in easier training, e.g. if I wanted to be really strong at big power moves off LH undercuts, I'd include big power moves off LH undercuts in my ancap training, even if the moves had to be easier than on the project. (For one thing, having a few particular styles of moves you want to include makes it easier to invent circuits than starting from nothing, and why the hell not include it). However, I would think of this more as generically improving my ability at that style of move, with likely usefullness in the longer-term, and like you would want to be doing harder moves in my boulder sessions...

I agree with your half agreement, my post is aimed at Sharks’s specific case, I think he probably has several years of ancap including left hand undercuts behind him!

[Mr E S Capegoat]

Have you tried training altered states of consciousness? This was a serious suggestion. Sorry if my bantz with Pete was taken as offensive. I’m sure he’s cool tho ✌️💗

[Duma]

And lo, in week 497 of power club
.
.
.
.
Shark starts to train power.

[tomtom]

Exactly that. 

I thought this was common knowledge?

Great 👍👍 I tend to switch off when it comes to the training terminology and just go and climb/boulder/wall as hard as I feel like/can. Sometimes do a dead hang session...

So really interesting that I can get a good top up on power by (presumably) warning up for 10-15 then going full tilt at some steep probs I can’t (just) do then stopping.

My only training is doing that once a week, twice if I'm lucky, and seem to be still making gains.

Gains are good. Voyager season soon?

[andy popp]

Is Shark going to wait until Sunday before revealing the news?

[tomtom]

Is Shark going to until Sunday before revealing the news?

Tease 😃

[Oldmanmatt]

Is Shark going to until Sunday before revealing the news?

I was wondering the same thing.

Eagerly watching the forum for the news to break...

 

[36chambers]

Is Shark going to until Sunday before revealing the news?

Tease 😃

I don't know what you lot are on about. But I'm just going to leave this here anyway...

https://twitter.com/PunterWatchUK/status/716025527056904192?s=19&fbclid=IwAR3YHGdINIQGSHi4d29P0gnQnqRG-OrpfqKqECe2Zw6lgEpy3hls1KyQdbw

[shark]

Just got home. Delighted to report that Tommy got the Oak third redpoint in less than perfect conditions. 

A real fight with a big foot slip on the traverse but reeled it in then his fingers numbed out due to sore skin on the last few moves.

I stuck to the plan and went on Mescalito but didn’t redpoint it.

Re power training I assume both approaches work. if doing deadlifts/clean etc one way to increase your maximum is do sets of reps below your maximum to progress and another approach is to do progressive lifts then attempt max lifts at or above your PB.

[tomtom]

Well done Tommy. 👍👍👏👏

Re power / that’s not the impression I got from Pete and others posts. Try and do a move or two that you can’t quite do. A powerful slap/lunge/crimp etc... that just evades you. But don’t do too many reps and quit fresh.

[Will Hunt]

Great work, Tommy!

Now. I really really really don't want to be a dickhead here. I mean that. BUT I'm kind of incredulous that you guys haven't got the memo about how to train power yet. Especially Shark, who has been told again and again that he has to go and boulder at and beyond his limit in order to complete the Oak for years now. Is it not absolutely fundamental that to train power you should be doing shorter sessions where you attempt moves that you can't complete until after a few sessions?

Frankly, Shark, that video you posted is not right and I'm a bit dismayed that you're still looking for ways to dodge the inevitable requirement for limit moves on a woody or a winter of proper straight up (non traversy) bouldering.

I'm so aghast and exasperated because I consider myself a complete trainingphobe and EVEN I know this!

Sorry sorry sorry. I don't mean any harm but come on!

And sorry to deviate from what should just have been a message to say well done to Sharklet.